Unforgiven Project

why not try adding a wet nitrous plate kit just for grins, to see what an extra 250 hp feels like
just be sure you work out the minor bugs at the 75 hp level, then 100hp, then 150hp, then 250hp, and always jet the combos on the rich upper edge on fuel, at each stage,
before jetting to each higher performance level and add a rpm limiter.
if you shop carefully you can assemble a damn effective wet holley carb kit at a significant savings especially if you find a decent used but in great condition nitrous tank.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nos-02002nos

nos-02002nos_to_xl.jpg
 
why not find a 250 hp nitrous plate and nitrous kit with the required parts and give a wet nitrous kit a trial run, just start out easy at about the 50 hp level, and work out the tuning and functional kinks in 50 hp steps
 
I agree! I think everybody NEEDS 838 horsepower in a 2000 pound car!

Hahaha.... You guys are NUTS!! That would be to much for me on the street.

My truck weighs in around 7000 lbs.. the the axles are about 600lbs each and the tires are 225lbs each.
That is alot of rotating mass that I wish I did not have to have.
I prolly use 1/2 the power just to turn the tires in the Thick Deep mud.
 
Geez, that sounds like alot from a small block! Wishin I had that much in my TBucket !

You can...I sent you the parts list needed for the build. ;)
Just replace that keg on the T-bucket with a 55 gal drum and fill it with E-85. That would get you
to the grocery store about 6 times!

No Kidding.... that last data log I posted is about 160 seconds long. We had topped the fuel cell off level with the bottom of the fill hole
before the test. After the test it took 4.8 gallons to bring it back up to the same level where we started.

I am thinking my truck needs to attend AA meetings now..cause it sure loves the moonshine!!!
 
ust replace that keg on the T-bucket with a 55 gal drum and fill it with E-85. That would get you
to the grocery store about 6 times!

No Kidding.... that last data log I posted is about 160 seconds long.
I shouldn't need 55 gallons, it would take alot less than 160 seconds to complete the 1/4 mile ! :D
 
Little update on the engine....

Had some serious fun last Saturday. Finally got to race one of my friends who owns an S-10 chevy truck. He has a nice 600 HP
350 engine in it. He is also about 2500 LBS lighter than I am.

He ended up beating me by a bumper!!! So...As the loser, I had to purchase the photo's from a vendor that was on site. Well worth it, cause we were having the time of our life out there! We were pretty much even through out the pit until the end.. LOTS OF FUN!!!!

IMG_1733.JPG

This was a shot mid way through the coarse that the vendors had taken ... My friend Fred's girlfriend Sara was in their truck and trying to record the race.
In her video... You could hear her yelling at Fred....DON'T ROLL THE TRUCK!!!! After that all you could hear over the engines was her
laughing and having the time of her life!!
 
One thing I had noticed is that I could not get the RPM'S up past 4700 in the mud....

My timing is pulled back to 19 degrees @ 10 psi boost.... I wonder if I add a couple more degree's of timing... if that would help.
Or... if it was just because there was alot of load on the engine in the deep mud....

Another thing I thought of was I have replaced the Comp Aluminum Rockers with the
Comp Ultra Pro Magnum"s... maybe too heavy.


I need to take another look at the data log I took...I am set at 34 degrees until "zero" vacuum, then it is suppose to pull 1 degree per pound
of boost. I had noticed that at -4 psi I was at 25 degrees.

I think the computer is pulling timing sooner than it is supposed too. Maybe I have a safety switch activating too soon. As you know from the last
updates.. I had made some changes in the tune.. I may have inadvertently set something to trigger the the RPM'S to pull back.... and it is
doing what it's suppose to do. I just need to search the issue now... It's a good problem to have and sure beats the latter.

But the good news is that...the changes I made
to the Injector opening time on the last event helped ALOT...The engine ramps back down smoothly now instead of slamming the fuel door closed
then trying to catch back up at idle...
 
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This was a shot mid way through the coarse that the vendors had taken

I assume you are racing an oval course, how far around ? Looks like a hell of a good time for everyone !!!

Another thing I thought of was I have replaced the Comp Aluminum Rockers with the
Comp Ultra Pro Magnum"s... maybe too heavy.

Why are you asking this question, is there a problem with the ones you have now ?
 
It's just an open bog pit about 700-800' long and about 200' wide.

Why are you asking this question, is there a problem with the ones you have now ?

The problem with the old ones is that they were on loan from Coty. I wanted to get them back to him.. He loaned them to me cause they are 1.6 ratio and I wanted to try them out.

found a couple other pics....

This looks like it should be on a magazine cover!!!

cover.jpg


If slow and steady wins the race.... I lost BIG time !

fast.jpg
 
Thanks guys..
I wait till the next day to let some of the mud dry on the truck then smack the frame and suspension with a wooden hammer.
Alot of the big chunks fall right off. It takes 5 hours to power wash the truck completely clean. The hardest part to clean is the interior because
the truck sits so high in the air. I drilled strategically placed small holes in the floor to allow the water to drain out.

On another note.... I have been doing more thinking on the rear oil leak issue... There are a couple things that I over looked that may be the culprit.

1st.... I believe I may be building to much pressure in the crank case because of the extra boost and the wider ring gaps... I noticed that I am pushing oil
out the front of the valve cover holes. I need to install the header E-VAC kit that I purchased.

2nd thought is that I installed the remote oil cooler adapter on this rebuild. I did not have the lines at the time to install the cooler so I
just plugged the inlet and outlet holes in the adapter plate where the lines thread into it. Wondering if they may be the cause of the leak
or maybe even the adapter plate itself may not be screwed on tight enough and the O-ring is not completely sealing.

I have what we call a diaper bolted to the frame to protect the engine and front of the transmission from getting muddy or wet. it is basically a
3' x 6' sheet of 6 mil vinyl used under the shower floor pans in a home. It is held to the frame on the truck with 1/8" x 3/4" wide strips of aluminum
that I screw to the frame. Works amazingly well at keeping the engine compartment clean. That along with the scatter shield I made for the flex plate....
stops about 95% of anything from getting into the engine bay.

Anyway.... I had seen oil dripping onto the front driveshaft and instantly thought of the rear main seal without actually taking the diaper off.

Now that the truck is clean again I can remove the diaper and drive the truck around out back... then I can actually see where that leak is coming from.
I don't discount the fact that I may be building too much case pressure and it could be pushing oil out the gaskets also.

One way or another I will solve this issue.

GRUMPY..... If you are reading this... I have a question for you.

Will pulling too much timing cause the SBC to run hotter?

At WOT and 12 lbs boost my timing is at 18 degrees. My base is 34 degrees.
(Remember that I am running E-85 for fuel.)

At 10 psi boost I am at 19 degrees

My spark table map is commanding 34 degrees until "0" vacuum. After that I have it set for 29 degrees
around 12 psi. I smoothed the map from 0 to 12 psi so it is gradual.

Also in addition to the spark table map, I have the hand held controller pulling .8 degrees per pound of boost.

I think this may be a mistake because I manually programmed the the spark table to pull timing.

Any thoughts on this?


My AFR'S are set at 7.1 on the e-85 scale under full boost, but the computer is correcting
them to 6.1 under full boost.. This is rich....

I only ask because the coolant temps where reaching upward of 215 degrees that day.

I changed my timing table to pull about 10 degrees extra timing under boost for what I thought was a safety reason for the new rebuild...

The old tune had the base set at 34 degrees, then pulled back to 29 at 9 lbs boost.
The coolant temps stayed at 195 degrees.
 
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1st.... I believe I may be building to much pressure in the crank case because of the extra boost and the wider ring gaps... I noticed that I am pushing oil
out the front of the valve cover holes.
Do you have a way to measure the crank case pressure ?
 
Researching through the site and talking with Brian.... I came across this old thread from 2015 Titled
The mysterious X-1. How do you set this up?

Question to Grumpy:
What is considered excessive for crank case pressure when using a WATER MANOMETER.

Is it related to cylinder pressure or ambient pressure?
 
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Last night I was thinking about this oil leak issue. I am quite sure that I do not have excessive crank case pressure.... do to the fact that I have
a very large AN_12 threaded hole in the front of both rocker covers. There is no way that it could build pressure to induce the gaskets to leak.
So that theory is debunked in my book.

I plan on installing AN-12 lines from the covers to a catch can then out the header evac system.

So... I now need to re-check the pan gasket to make sure it its properly tight.
Then I need to re check the oil cooler adapter for a good seal.

If all checks good....It would indicate to me that the rear main seal is not sealing under high RPM's.

I did find some video's on the water manometer in action... It is based on ambient air pressure.
 
Brian and I were discussing the overall performance of a video I had sent him....He hit on a very good point. I am running a 14" x3" K&N filter on the sniper.
He stated that it only flows 810 CFM. That and the fact that the filter does get a little wet...would indicate that the engine is wants more air. I have
alot of sheet metal so I plan on making a custom air box system with remote filters, because I cannot fit a taller filter on top of the sniper.
I will definitely post pics of it once it is fabbed up.

Anyway ..... They made a dedicated video of my truck playing in the mud...

 
retarding the timing , can and occasionally does in some cases, result\ in a bit more partially burn exhaust fuel/air exiting the exhaust ports,
while still burning in the exhaust ports and headers
this may result in the engine running hotter or cooler depending on tune factors cam timing f/a ratio, boost, etc.
running e85 that burns a bit slower and while under boost with the much larger fuel/air ratio in each cylinders, might tend to aggravate the resulting changes

yeah a new remote air filter with a good deal more surface area may prove very helpful
cusa4.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...er-to-fit-your-cars-engine.16490/#post-100444

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/intercoolers.1256/#post-2698

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/fabricating-custom-air-cleaner/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cooler-denser-air.8961/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-tabs-and-indicators.1015/
 
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