Is this the right 383 combination.

I just had a 383 built by a crate engine supplier. The following is a list of the that was suggested to me. Originally with procom heads but now upgraded to AFR. If I had to do it again I should have waited, gained some more knowledge and built it myself. And yes I should have gone forged pistons.

The motor is going to my daily driver 1968 el camino with built performance 700r4, 373 gears in ford 9, and will be 90% street driven and 10% track use. The car is not lightened so it is around 3600 with me in it. My goal was max shift at 6000 rpm with max hp at 5500.

Quickfuel 750
Scat 9000 crankshaft
pistons Speedpro 860 cp Flat top 5 cc valve reliefs
Scat i beam rods
Camshaft hyd roller compcam Xr276Hr 224/230 @050, 276/282@.006 110 Lobe sep, Intake centerline 106
Heads AFR 195 -75 CC runners Should be around 9.8/1
Intake -Edelbrock air gap
Rockers Comp rollers
Timing -Double roll -3023
Oil pump- Melling high volume

Question will this combo give me 450 or so horsepower with lots of torque and would adding 1.6 rockers help.

I no almost nothing about cam choices but since read the David Vizards book on building small block chevys to gain some knowledge I have realized I know much less than I thought I did.

heres what comp cams says to expect from that cam in a similar 350 SBC

http://www.compcams.com/v002/Pages/396/XR276HR-10.aspx

I would have suggested a bit more cam like this and a 2800 rpm stall speed converter/
http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=24181

yes the 1.6:1 ratio roller rockers should help, don,t get depressed at what comp cams predicts they used far less efficient cylinder heads, a lower compression and less displacement, so youll find your much closer to the goal of 450hp than they got

Id guess close to 420 ft lbs and 430 flywheel hp, but thats just an educated guess

related threads and useful info
you might be amazed at how much-related info,
is previously posted on this subject

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-stock-tpi-engine-components.1509/#post-74581

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rger-intake-runners-l98-tpi.13785/#post-72541

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ideal-tpi-build.12203/#post-59273

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bits-of-383-build-info.18/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ps-on-building-a-tpi-383-c4.10434/#post-51507

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...bes-hitting-connecting-rods.14687/#post-79310

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rebuild-old-dyno-results-new-cam-ideas.15332/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-get-there-with-tpi.10494/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rods-to-close.2733/#post-7145

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/my-current-corvettes-383-combo.430/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/18459-chevrolet-corvette-c4-tpi-upgrades/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ed-a-dual-58mm-throttle-body-on-your-tpi.290/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-valve-spring-height-load-on-a-l98-383.14592/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/small-base-circle-cams.3810/#post-72512

Thanks for the reply. I need to fiqure out the best way to cleck clearances with the 1.6 rockers. I am under the impression that I should only use them on the intake side only. Wonder how much extra hp and torque I would achieve the the extra lift. I know I am leaving alot on the table but it should have great street manners

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...swap-in-1-6-1-ratio-rockers.10671/#post-46039

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rocker-ratios-and-the-effects.126/#post-37621

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...o-rockers-and-the-pushrods-rub.198/#post-3033

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-train-clearances-and-problems.528/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/checking-piston-to-valve-clearances.399/

I have a 2800 stall already. I assume the hp estimates are flywheel( obviously would like rear wheels). Should I run the 1.6 rockers on intake and exhaust?

the higher ratio rockers will tend too do two things, add about 10-15 hp , due to potentially leaving the intake port open longer thus increasing its flow potential (which should help here) and lower valve float limits about 200 rpm, because you sped up the valve train ACCELERATION AND LOADS RATES MARGINALLY

Why such a difference between my combo and this one that you posted . Is it due to the higher compression?





Whit should be obvious that the cam they selected never gets close to maxing out the port flow due to limited valve lift even.
the duration selected is a little bit restrictive for the application,
Intake Duration @ .050: 224
Exhaust Duration @ .050: 230

yet with decent heads the results are still reasonably good, which again shows the importance of selected good cylinder heads
y such a difference between my combo and this one.

1. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Scat-Eng...MIsbLvvoCJ4AIVxIqzCh1P-g2cEAQYBCABEgIUhfD_BwE
2. 
   https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Forg...Assembly-383-Dome-H-Beam-6-In-Rods,31929.html
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tbucket-engine-project-dart-shp.3814/
   
   https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/scat-engine-components/part-type/engine-rotating-kits
   
   https://www.scatcrankshafts.com/
   
   https://www.jegs.com/p/Scat/Scat-Sm...reet-Strip-Rotating-Assembly/2793312/10002/-1
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...383-build-that-is-now-going-to-be-a-400.7804/
   
   
   Id be looking at a 4340 forged steel rotating assembly with connecting rods that have 7/16" ARP rod bolts and about a 9:1 compression if your using pump gas,
   or a 11:1 compression ratio if your using E85 for fuel
   
   
   
   
   
   
   related info
   yeah its a good deal of reading... but it will help your far more than you'll initially appreciate, and save you weeks of work and a good deal of cash wasted, if you wade through the links and sub-links... before diving head first financially into purchasing components, and getting machine work done.
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ccing-my-heads.14187/#post-71989
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/types-of-crankshaft-steel.204/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/scat-cranks-related-info.10930/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rod-bolts-rpm-vs-stress.341/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/is-this-the-right-383-combination.12164/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/compression-question-383.12861/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...alves-and-polishing-combustion-chambers.2630/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/porting-can-help.462/
   
   http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-seat-angles-and-air-flow.8460/
   
   

http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=24181

I suggested this cam above


not
http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=24187

Well I left the engine alone with the original cam. The AFR heads and the 1.6 rockers really helped. It is a good street motor that ran 12.74 and 107 at the drags and I will be adding 26 inch diameter drag radials to help stop tire spin. I could have gone alittle larger on the cam as you suggested but might have affected my power brakes. The only time that you notice the cam is sitting at a stop light in drive. It will idle at 600 - 800 rpm in gear. I still have yet to get the carb dialed in with the proper a/f mixture as it is running abit rich at idle. 12.5 or so. Maybe squeeze a few more ponys out of it. Overall I am pretty pleased as I wanted a street/strip 12.5 el camino and I am almost there.

thanks for posting that info on you results

Looking good. Please update as you make changes.

Well here is that latest update. Went to the strip on saturday. Some time back I did a couple of passes with street tires and ran 12.74 at 106mph. Still learning the launch with a auto and was cutting horrible rt with the lights compared with my 6 speed camaro. I added drag radials and headed out saturday. The delay was due to the new paint job I finished and the tail gate scratch I added when adding my tonneau cover on. I had to repaint of tailgate.@#@!.

First pass I was really pleased. 12.48 at 110.38. I had 20 lbs in the radials and I usually run 17 or 18. I decided this was good and would leave things alone. Next pass was at 12.773 as I was shifting from 2nd to third too late. 3rd 12.309 4th 12.496. Fiqured out best shift was 6100 to second and 5800 to third with my 370 gear and 700r4.
Racing started and I dialed in at 12.40 as it was warming up a hair. Concentrating on my shift point and leaving right at the third light ran 60ft 1. 783 12.237 at 111.52. Best to date but broke out. I am pleased with my set up even though my reaction times need help. First problem is the tires are slipping on my rims. About 1/2 to 3/8 a pass equal on both sides.

Second problem with my dip stick blowing out of the tube and throwing oil all over the headers. I temp wired it in place until I could get home and find a permanent fix. No problem on initial test but I think part of the problem was I added Mr gasket baffled grommets for the PCV valve and K&N breather. I was getting a oil leak around the grommet seal at the valve cover. I think they may be providing a restriction so I may end up cutting off the bottom of the grommet. I had to add a touch of silicone at the valve cover mating surface as I can find a grommet that gives me a really tight fit.

I don't know any thing about positive crankcase ventilation systems and any guidelines would be appreciated. I currently have the hose to the power brakes into the rpm air gap intake and the pcv valve going into a 1/2 inch 4 hole carb spacer. Is there different types of pcv valves, or is a header type evacuation system better? Any help would be appreciated.

Pretty nice numbers for my daily driven 1968 el camino

Another update

Just pulled both grommets and they barely have an opening. Probably made in china. I am at fault for not blowing through to check for restrictio. Defective. Cut the bottom off one( to allow adding oil) and found another with the proper opening.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/blow-bye-and-breathers.10646/#post-48863

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/catch-cans.7244/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/catch-can-related-info.4636/#post-12610

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2005&p=5328&hilit=positive+crankcase#p5328

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com...7&p=12639&hilit=+vacuum+crankcase+pump#p12639

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/pcv-system-routing.10999/#post-48576

DEAL IN PROVEN FACTS NEVER GUESS , NEVER ASSUME
look through these threads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...earances-and-journal-surface.9955/#post-38385

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/clearance-issues.12072/#post-57822

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

notice how the rod bolts come close to the cam bearings and cam lobes,as the pistons reach top dead canter in the bores, this clearance must be individually checked and should be no less than about .060 (generally you cam use a LARGE plastic tie-wrap, you must install the timing set and index the cam correctly to get a valid clearance , as the cam lobes rotate and at some point they can be incorrectly indexed too hit the rods, while they would not if correctly timed.
https://www.amazon.com/BuyCableTies...D=41U9CtmwOuL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

placed between the cam lobe and connecting rod bolts or connecting rod shoulder areas to check clearances as the soft tie-wrap will not damage the cam lobe while you verify clearances)

why you need to verify the cam to rod bolt clearance

rods that use bolts with nuts like pictured below will be weakened if excessively clearance ground

stroker profile rods offer more clearance to cam lobes, and yes the stroker clearanced profile rods are available in both (h) and (I ) beam designs

on some stroker applications SOME rods need to have the bolts ground for cam lobe clearance
first step.
before you start panicking and potentially wasting money and time.
would be to assemble a single piston and rod assembly without rings,
but ideally with some old bearings on the crank and connecting rod and install the cam, in the block
( indexed with a simple,dot to dot timing on the timing gear sets should be ok at this point)
move that connecting rod and piston to all 8 locations and very carefully verify clearances (remember the rod clearance bevel faces the crank counter weight and the piston valve clearances face the outer block)through the full 720 degree rotational cycle, remember the cam spins at 1/2 the crank speed so the cam lobe comes close to the rod every other rotation,
and actually verify you DO, have or DON,T have a potential clearance problem
theres zero sense in runninbg around pulling your hair out and screaming until,
theres actually a PROVEN ISSUE too SOLVE (THERE MAY NOT BE!)
now if you find theres an issue to be solved you proceed using facts
and while your checking the cam lobe to connecting rod clearance check the connecting rod to block clearance ....yes the same minimum .060-.080 clearance is suggested

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...earances-and-journal-surface.9955/#post-38385

generally its a minor easily done clearance job

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.htm
don,t forget to verify the cam to connecting rod clearances
a cams VALVE LIFT is determined by the DISTANCE the lifter moves as the cam rotates under the lifter base as it moves from the cam lobe base circle
(the closest the lifter comes to the cams center line)
up to the cam lobes ramp to the lobes peak,
(the furthest the lifter up off or from the cams center line)
don,t forget to carefully check the piston skirt to crank counter weight clearance, it should be a MINIMUM of .080 thousands
heres some pictures taken of an engine assembly that use a crank designed for a MINIMUM of a 6.25" connecting rod that was used with a 6.135" connecting rod

you can clearly see where the piston pin boss was being hit bye the counter weights, even though the builder checked one piston and found it had .025 clearance during assembly

the result was a trashed engine with lots of damage

wrad said:

dip stick blowing out of the tube and throwing oil all over the headers. I temp wired it in place until I could get home and find a permanent fix.

Click to expand...

They have locking dipsticks - for a lot of money. I just put a spring (similar to one of a double throttle return spring) on it using a small hose clamp to the tube to hold the other end of the spring.

wrad said:

I don't know any thing about positive crankcase ventilation systems and any guidelines would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

PCV works at idle. The factory air cleaner housing would use a 1/2" ID or larger hose to the housing that would pull your crankcase vapors out during WOT. If you don't have that, then that is why you are getting those leaks from blowby. Think about how much suction is available through your carb at WOT. It's like a giant Shop-Vac. You use a portion of that to suck out the crankcase vapors. An open element air cleaner defeats that. It also sucks in HOT underhood air. If you want to add this to your engine, use a closed-element (factory type) of air cleaner housing and a Mopar style breather.

The header evac system might work for you, but I read where you need open exhaust for it to work correctly.

wrad said:

and will be 90% street driven and 10% track use

Click to expand...

Personally, I would stick with your camshaft with the 1.6 rockers, because you already noticed the reduced vacuum
with the power brakes at stoplights. Any bigger would amplify that problem.

hydoboost then a larger cam if you desire the larger camshaft