TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

Best to change the distributor/ignition if its not working correctly in the first place.(and then tune it up on the dyno).
 
on many of the ignitions with the plug-in chip style rev limiters you can simply remove the chip to disable the rev limit function
 
He use the MSD 8360 distributor, wich you have to ground the grey wire(at 1/2 desired rev limit) to set the rev limiter. But for some reason its not working it wont let him set the rev limit. probably because that distributor is a piece of chinese crap and went south.
 
Loves302Chevy said:
Sounds similar to your problem. Eric is Eric Rhee at Westech Performance Group. 951-685-4767 WestechPerformance.com
Maybe you can contact him and pick his brain.
Click to expand...
Actually I think I have it covered. The new distributor is suppose to be here next Tuesday. That should confirm the MSD circuit board to be defective if it runs OK with the new distributor. If it doesn't, then that's another story.

Below is a link to my post on the MSD forum.
https://forums.msdperformance.com/s...ubleshoot-MSD-8360-(Ready-to-Run)-RPM-Limiter
 
Loves302Chevy said:
Long story short, it turned out to be the rotor. The spark burns a path through the center of the rotor and it gets grounded out to the center post of the distributor. So spark comes into the cap from the coil, but never makes it out to the plug wires. That arc path on the rotor is nearly impossible to see.
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Not sure what I'm looking for, but it looks Ok to me, what do you think???

FP02_DistributorRotor_00012.jpg
 
$_3.JPG

images
PHASE-02.jpg


It is this type of rotor that arcs to the center post, and I realize yours uses a different rotor.
However, anything is possible. Your rotor looks fine.

The inexpensive distributor that you ordered, they work. If it does fail, it is usually the module inside.
It that point, you just replace the module with a name brand version.
But it seems like EVERYTHING, even if the box says MADE IN USA, is actually produced offshore.
They can get away with it as long as their headquarters in actually on our soil.
 
After reading so many of Grumpy's assessments of spark plugs, I now find that I am able to read yours.
I just can't figure what's up with those deposits.
 
Grumpy said:
on many of the ignitions with the plug-in chip style rev limiters you can simply remove the chip to disable the rev limit function
Click to expand...

Everyone knows that those "chips" are only fixed value resistors, right?
I can provide a graph if anyone wants it.
 
It was delivered today, so it's waiting on me to get home from work. It should be an easy to get installed and tested tonight if the wife don't change my mind.
 
I got it installed with only a little trouble..... wiring connectors. I had to make an adapter for one connection from the distributor to the + coil. I just looked thru my scrap wiring box and found a wire one with an end that was already correct, installed the other end and I'm ready to go.

That not only corrected my problem above, but it also corrected the problem I've had since day one with the timing getting erratic when it gets near 35° advance in the video below.

 
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I'm glad your making progress,
like I stated early on, having a couple spare and known too be good distributors handy,on any chevy BBC or SBC, engine
too isolate and test issues with the ignition, for testing the ignition makes a great deal of sense.
now that the ignitions working better,
you more than likely picked up a noticeable bit more mid rpm and peak rpm range power.
most guy look at an engine as a single component and its really a group or system of interdependent components, all must function correctly
 
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The picture of the NGK plugs look good to me and now that the ignition is fixed it can only get better. (am sure deposit was because of the detonation problem, he had last year)
Am glad this fixed your problem. it probably run better now :D
Maby it also fixed that detonation problem you were fighting.

First time i see that video above.
What distributor did you get for the test?
 
mathd said:
Am glad this fixed your problem. it probably run better now :D
Maybe it also fixed that detonation problem you were fighting.

First time i see that video above.
What distributor did you get for the test?
Click to expand...
It fixed my problem all right, but I hate to run a cheap distributor because of
the cam gear that it must interface with. I thought I had the distributor locked
enough to keep the setting while I adjusted, but it was moving on me when I
raised the rpm.

I posted the video way back when, not sure which thread and asked about the
timing fluctuation. At least I think I did, now where are my glasses. :)

I bought this distributor for $40. It will use the coil I have.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262454150596
Distributor for Testing.jpg

The tracking number for the MSD module shows it's out for delivery today. I should
have the distributor repaired this weekend. May not get to test drive it, since we are
expecting lots of rain this weekend. Will just have to see.
.
 
yes keep us informed I spent allot of yesterday all over the interweb looking at spark plug pictures we all know one problem at a time. I still feel yours are a little too hot of a plug if detonation still is occurring. Again there is a range that an engine likes temp wise for combustion you may be in that range but not in the middle of it more towards the hotter side. Again there are allot of pics out there of plugs I am gathering this opinion from going through them. If you are not running fuel additives then those marks seem to show normal/hot so yes you are almost dead on. But timing also has an effect on this so keep a log book and work on things or make a plan and do a dyno session. Either way keep notes of changes keep reading those plugs. Guys at the strip are killing there engine and reading there plugs after being TOWED back. Avoiding running the engine on the way back to get an accurate sparkplug rading to tell whats going on in the engine.
 
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