TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

If you want to learn more about anodizing aluminum i have a small webpage(still need updating) with info on how to anodize at home.
The 16% sulfuric acid is 16% by weight not by volume, big difference and you also need to monitor the solution temperature. And you need to seal it when done.
Normally you want to de-smudge after de-oxidizing into NaOH, i opted for a cheaper option and sanded it(it was a cast piece so it turned dark because of the silica when it was cast. Else you can Dye it for some very nice colors when its not a cast piece!!!)
https://tek465b.github.io/Page4.html
If you have any questions let me know, i have some extensive knowledges in the chemistry/electronic domain.

Am also looking for some way to protect polished aluminium, i will follow this for sure.
So far the best option is a clear powerdercoat

That's cool Mathieu, your a man of many talents for sure! You should start a thread when you have
a few more examples of anodizing. Where did you pick up on Chemistry?

When I looked at the back of the container for Shark Hyde it says contains Xylene and Toulene, if it
wasn't so damn expensive it would make a great octane booster.

I expect that a clear powder coat would reduce the shine a little. Would it be much different than painting
with a clear coat?

.
Got started cleaning the pistons today.



I was very curious to see if there was any signs of contact with valve on the #1 piston after I got it cleaned
up really good. I certainly could not see anything that would explain the bent intake valve.



I did find something very interesting on the magnet back by cylinder #7 .... what the hell is it ???



With further inspection I found where it came from.

So, is this little piece of stamped sheet metal important to the function of the lifter??? ..... No telling
how long it's been running this way.

Should I replace the lifter???



That piece of stamped sheet metal could not have come off and stuck to the magnet while the engine
was running. It would have been captured by the pushrod and could not have gone anywhere until I
pulled the pushrod during disassembly.

.

replacing the lifter that came apart,might be a better idea than re-assembly and use.
obviously your saw that use of magnets in the lifter gallery have a tendency to trap magnetic metallic,debris and prevent it from getting into the oil flow.
they are available from several vendors
proper magnets trap metallic debris
SmCo Samarium Cobalt Disc Magnets
http://www.magnet4less.com/


http://www.magnet4less.com/product_...ucts_id=254&osCsid=ckl4nevgdrmireotnegg7jcf36

http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-magnets-dia-1x3-8-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608-f-temperature/

Samarium Cobalt MAGNETS HELP
http://www.magnet4sale.com/smco-disk-magnet-dia-1x1-4-samarium-cobalt-magnets-608-f-temperature/
magnets are ceramic and glass hard, don,t try to drill or grind them, as they can shatter

See, even when you do everything right, $hit still happens.
That's the part I hate. And it always seems to happen to me.

Makes No Sense Rick.
Exhaust Valves are more prone to sticking in the Valve Guides.
The Piston is always chasing the exhaust valve.
The Intake Valve will tend to float 1st due to its larger size and Mass weight.

Not liking the stamped steel lifter seat retainers.
I prefer like the Old School Snap Rings.
Used on Isky Lifters.

I was not around when You & Grumpy Built the Longblock.
I came on board sometime in late 2011 here.

See what machinist comes up working on the Brodix heads finds.

Good thing you installed the Magnets.
I never have used them inside of an engine yet.
We can see that they actually work.

I was wondering about how those lifters are held together also. Where are the snap rings?

There is only Possible explanation I can think of Rick why the Intake Valve got bent otherwise.
There was a problem in the Valve Job to begin with.
A Valve Seat Concentric Issue.
Valve seat to Valve guide centerline Runout was greater than .002".
You can not detect by lapping valves.
If anything you mask the problem lapping in.

Need a Valve Seat Runout Gauge.
I bought on years back for my Sioux Valve & Seat grinding gear.
Mine is a Central Tools Valve seat runout gauge, Jeweled or ruby needle bearing movement.

The Intake Valve gradually Overheated from less than optimum heat transfer from excess Valve Seat Runout.

My theory for tonight.

You Need Valve Guide Pilots to use the Valve seat runout gauge.
Sioux uses .385 Tops.

You have Sunnen Valve guide Pilots.
Black & Decker - Snap On.
Kwick Way.
Sioux.
Serdi.

The Pilots are expensive.
Everytime I need a special size for a project non Chevy Or Pontiac & need a special size I have to bite the bullet....$50 to 80 each.

Pretty much the only Old School Valve grinding by Hand Power Tools to use is Sioux or Kwick Way.
Done right .000" to .001" Valve seat runout can be held.
Its an Art & science combined.

Just to make sure everyone understands .....

The problem lifter is on cylinder #7 and the bent intake valve is on cylinder #1.

yes thats always a good idea too point out the facts on any issue clearly,
and
that the part that came loose on lifter #7
was not related ,
to the bent valve on cylinder #1

Also Sunnen has a special valve guide to seat runout gauge.
I have gotten into arguments with machinists about them.

Sunnen machine shop gear costs thousands.

Ah, am the kind of survivalist guy. I know it will never happen but if shit hit the fan, guns are not going to help with mechanic/electronics/chemistry.
If i cannot buy or get something, then am just gonna make it myself(and it prove to be usefull in everyday's life).
Always loved electronics since my young years and it has good link with chemistry.
When am bored i like to learn and since am bored alot i learn alot .

You can get Xylene and Toluene from the hardware store in canada.
http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-Décor/Surface-Preparation/Solvents/Thinners/1L-Toluol-Solvent-Cleaner/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I1620712?Ntt=toluol
http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-Décor/Surface-Preparation/Solvents/Thinners/3-78L-Xylene-Solvent/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I1620681?Ntt=xylene

I did not try powerdercoating at home myself, but my pulley kit is CNC and clear powdercoated and the difference is very small.(its not dull looking)

Indycars said:

That's cool Mathieu, your a man of many talents for sure! You should start a thread when you have
a few more examples of anodizing. Where did you pick up on Chemistry?

When I looked at the back of the container for Shark Hyde it says contains Xylene and Toulene, if it
wasn't so damn expensive it would make a great octane booster.

I expect that a clear powder coat would reduce the shine a little. Would it be much different than painting
with a clear coat?

Click to expand...

It suck about that no.7 lifter and i expected to see a mark on that no.1 piston i don't know what to say there.

I called Crower yesterday and talked with Tech Support. The only lifters they rebuild are Solid
Roller Lifters, so that leaves me out. I gave him my story, he suggested that I send the set of
lifters in. He also suggested I include the receipt to prove when I bought them and a letter
giving the details. The lifters were purchased in March 2011, they are 7 years old now. He didn't
come right out and say it, but it sounded like they might do something if it looked like a defect.
He mentioned a price break as a possibility.

I had several questions written down, so I went ahead and asked.
The cost to rebuild the solid rollers is $361 and upgraded them to HIPPO would be another $55.
I asked about keeping the lifters in their original position, the answer was YES they need to go
back exactly where they came from.

I shipped them a couple of hours ago, it will be 2 weeks roughly before I get them back.

Below is the letter I put in the box of lifters along with my receipt.

Although the lifters are 7 years old, the engine only has 14,000 miles. Since it’s a TBucket and an
open car, it’s only driven May thru October.

The stamped metal clip in the top of the lifter on cylinder #7 came loose. Please inspect all lifters
and advise.

I have a build thread on the forum below that has thousands of views and would love to report a
fair and satisfactory solution to the lifter problem.

Thanks for your time!


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tbucket-engine-project-dart-shp.3814/

that should result in at least not being ignored and more than likely a good result

Indycars said:

I have a build thread on the forum below that has thousands of views and would love to report a
fair and satisfactory solution to the lifter problem.

Click to expand...

That ought to do it. Good luck.

I didn't want the letter to come off like a threat, I know what happens when someone tries
that on me ..... I will do just the opposite of what they want.

I thought surely the lifters would not need to go back in the same holes, but obviously it
sure won't hurt. It sounded like he was concerned about the lifter bore clearance.