oil system mods that help

87vette81big · Sep 18, 2015

grumpyvette said:
WELL DESIGNED AND PROPERLY INSTALLED BAFFLED OIL PANS,WINDAGE TRAYS AND CRANK SCRAPERS GO A LONG WAY TO INCREASING ENGINE DURABILITY THRU BETTER MORE CONSISTENT OIL FLOW RATES

yes you can (and probably should) take the time to fabricate a windage screen similar too the one shown in the link above,
or in these link's
any time you allow an unsupported section of the oil pump pick-up to not have a welded or properly bolted external support bracing,
you can almost depend on constant flexing to eventually cause durability issues.
a good many engines benefit from having a bolt on external brace to the engines windage screen, if you think in three dimensions vs just two this can be done rather easily.

https://www.chevydiy.com/chevy-big-block-performance-lubrication-system-guide/

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/useful-tips-installing-oil-pans-right-way/

one more in an ENDLESS LIST of reasons any serious shop needs to have access to a decent welder (A OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH in this case) a drill press and a dial caliper could allow you to fabricate a $1 l-bracket that could easily be the difference between a $10-$15K engine living a long trouble free life vs a very expensive self destructing engine , lesson in why adding a $1 brace would be almost mandatory

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/custom-windage-tray.10490/

http://www.colemanracing.com/Windage-Screen-P3831.aspx

http://www.musclecardiy.com/performance/how-to-build-racing-engines-sumps-and-oiling/#

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0603-oil-pan-design-windage-tech/

On oil pans I prefer studs, and an oil pan back plate

you might want to Use with P/N 12553058 RH and P/N 12553059 LH oil pan reinforcement plates to distribute the bolt stress on the oil pan rail for 1985 and earlier oil pans P/N 14088501 (LH) and P/N 14088502 (RH).1986 and newer

DUAL REMOTE MOUNT OIL FILTERS CAN MAKE EXTRA FILTRATION FAR EASIER TO INSTALL

PARTS DETAIL
Principal Application: Chevrolet and GMC Trucks (73-93)
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 7.822
Outer Diameter Top: 3.674
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Burst Pressure-PSI: 270
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21

Without a Doubt in my mind the Bypass Valve is open 100% of the time in a Pontiac V8 with The stock oil pump, M54D & M54F 40-60-80psi oil pumps respective when on the gas WOT ABOVE 2600RPMS.
SAME HILDS TRUE SBC, BBC & LS-X.

opening and smoothing the recessed area and porting the oil passage entrance reduces the restriction to oil flow

notice the open slot between the rear main cap supporting the oil pump and bearing shell support and the area supporting the rear main seal, this prevents PRESSURIZED oil from the bearings reaching the rear main seal.

the as cast recess in the rear main cap where the oil pump mounts can be rather restrictive and shallow, so a bit of careful mill or grinding work to open up and add some depth certainly helps oil flow if its done carefully

in my opinion , and experience and from lots of G.M. engine, race testing.
theres no need for oil pressure to exceed about 65 psi,
it takes power to spin the oil pump against that extra resistance, it induces extra wear on the distributor and cam gears,
and it does nothing to reduce bearing wear or increase cooling on the bearing surfaces,if your engine shows more than about 70 psi, you should open some bearing clearances marginally
(maybe an extra half thousandth on the mains) to increase oil flow volume reaching the main bearings, and use a lower resistance oil pump bye-pass spring.
extra oil flow volume cooling the bearings and valve train will do more for durability than oil pressure exceeding 65-70 psi
OIL PRESSURE read on the oil pressure gauge is a MEASURE of RESISTANCE to oil flow, you can REDUCE the pressure the gauge reads by either increasing the engine clearances or REDUCING the oil viscosity (thickness) so it flows thru the clearances faster with less resistance.(OR INSTALLING A SLIGHTLY WEAKER OIL PUMP BYE_PASS SPRING,that limits the pump pressure before it allows some oil to re-circulate back through the bye-pass valve ,from the high pressure back to the low pressure side of the pump impellers, but only the max pressure you reach is limited by the bye-pass spring,in your oil pressure bye pass circuit and its that spring resistance determines the point where the bye-pass circuit, opens and limits max oil pressure, but the bye-pass circuit has zero to do with anything else, if its functioning correctly,
there are many oil leakage points(100) in a standard Chevy engine.
16 lifter to push rod points
16 push rod to rocker arm points
32 lifter bores 16 x 2 ends
10 main bearing edges
9 cam bearing edges
16 rod bearing edges
2 distributor shaft leaks
1 distributor shaft to shim above the cam gear(some engines that have an oil pressure feed distributor shaft bearing.)
once oil exits the bearings or valve train it flows mostly by gravity back to the oil pan sump, but a properly designed windage screen and crank scraper correctly clearanced allows the spinning crank/rotating assembly to act like a directional pump that drags the vast majority of the oil flow back to the sump, by design.

NO THE OIL PUMP, PUSHES OIL INTO THE BLOCK PASSAGES, THROUGH THE OIL FILTER ADAPTER ,THE BYE-PASS IS A SPRING LOADED BYE-PASS IN THE BLOCK THE OIL FILTER SCREWS ONTO, AND HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH OIL BYE-PASSING THE OIL FILTER

IF YOU DON,T WANT OIL TO OCCASIONALLY BYE-PASS THE FILTER INSTALL AN ADAPTER WITHOUT A BYE-PASS VALVE

ALL THAT OIL FILTER BYE-PASS VALVE DOES IS ROUTE OIL FLOW PAST THE OIL FILTER
IF IT BECOMES SO CLOGGED WITH TRASH THAT THERES
A 10 PSI DIFFERENCE IN THE RESISTANCE TO OIL FLOW THROUGH THE FILTER
VS AROUND IT INTO THE BLOCKS OIL PASSAGES, oil enters the area over the oil filter in the block and is forced into the outer holes in the oil filter perimeter down through the case and filter element and up through the central hollow screw retention stud into the blocks oil passages, if the resistance too flow is too great the oil filter bye-pass valve routes oil around the filter directly from oil pump to the blocks oil passages.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-friction-and-pumping-losses.8966/#post-31978

THE OIL FILTER BYE-PASS MEARLY ALLOWS OIL TO BYE-PASS THE FILTER MEDIUM IF ITS MOSTLY CLOGGED OR OVERLY RESTRICTED
THIS HAPPENS MOSTLY IF YOU FAIL TO HAVE REGULAR OIL CHANGES OR REVE THE ENGINE WHILE THE OILS STILL COOL.
OIL THATS HOT HAS REDUCED VISCOSITY AND ITS EASIER TO PUSH THROUGH THE OIL FILTER

oil pumps have a pressure regulator circuit that prevents pressure increases past a springs resistance

grumpy, no mater how hard I tighten the distributor clamp on my intake manifold,
I will almost enviably, find its moved and will require re-timing. any ideas?

Ive seen this frequently, and almost always its a case where if you measure carefully, youll almost surely find,
the oil pump drive shaft is bottoming out solidly between the oil pump and the distributor gear is binding,
so the distributor is not firmly seated against the intake manifold surface.

the oil pump drive shaft length MUST BE about .050 SHORTER than the distance it would take to firmly seat it inside the distributor drive gear, the cam has a gear that spins the distributor and the oil pump drive shaft is driven by that distributor gear in the lower distributor that extends down to the oil pump drive.

this gear must not bind on the distributor too oil pump drive shaft when the distributor is seated firmly on the intake manifold and clamped into place there must be about .050 clearance minimum

Strictly Attitude · Oct 24, 2016

http://www.chevydiy.com/the-complete-cylinder-block-guide-for-chevy-small-block-engines/

Grumpy · Apr 25, 2018

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/83818-block-plug-basics/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...wear-articles-you-need-to-read.282/#post-3808

http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-s...g-101-getting-started-with-your-engine-build/

oil system mods that help

WELL DESIGNED AND PROPERLY INSTALLED BAFFLED OIL PANS,WINDAGE TRAYS AND CRANK SCRAPERS GO A LONG WAY TO INCREASING ENGINE DURABILITY THRU BETTER MORE CONSISTENT OIL FLOW RATES yes you can (and probably should) take the time to fabricate a windage screen similar too the one shown in the...

garage.grumpysperformance.com

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-video-unique-melling-billet-shark-tooth-oil-pumps-explained/
the difference between a stock capacity BBC and high volume SBC oil pump is minimal,
in the power needed to drive either one, you can use either, oil pump,
Ive used several standard volume bbc oil pumps in SBC engines but the stock z28 SBC oil pump works very well.
neither pump will require anywhere close to 10 hp,
the tests Ive seen in magazines show closer to 2hp at peak rpms for either oil pump.
but you can,t get two identical engine dyno curves on the same engine with no changes and not see a 2 hp variation,
the power used is significantly less with normal .002-.003 clearances and hot 10w30 oil.
you certainly do not need a high volume BBC oil pump on a SBC engine, in most cases,
obviously bearing clearances, oil viscosity , oil temperature,and the other lube system mods will effect the power required to spin any pump,

heres a calculator, if you put in the typical 6 gallons a minute at 65 psi you get less than 1/4 hp required
http://www.wallaceracing.com/oil-pump-hp-calc.php

http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=91/prd91.htm
http://www.wallaceracing.com/oil-pump-hp-calc.php

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bbc-oil-pump-in-a-sbc.2598/

Are high volume oil pumps OK to run on the street?

We get asked this one from time to time, and the answer is, it depends on the engine. First off; why do you think you need to run a high volume oil pump? The reason performance and race engines use them is because the clearances are upwards of twice the amount as a stock engine. Those voids flow oil out much quicker so they need more volume to stay filled with oil.

A typical stock engine has about .001" - .0015" of rod and main bearing clearances. When you get into more serious engines you will find rod clearances as much as .002" or more, and crank clearances upwards of .0025" - .003" or more. This is also why in the older days, race and performance engines used to run much thicker oils to help "take-up" all of that space. It was common to see straight 40wt and 50wt race oils in engines back in the day. Now days, with much better oils, we tend to run tighter clearances and much thinner oils. We've learned that thinner oil gets to where it needs to go much quicker and with less effort than thicker oils. Larger clearances on serious performance and race engines drain-out quicker so you need a pump that'll push more oil volume into them to keep those larger clearances full. Stock or mild performance engines don't really require that much oil flow because the clearances are much less and therefore "flow" oil much less.

You can't pump oil where it doesn't want to go. In other words, unless your crank and rod clearances are a lot more than a stock engine, then oil simply isn't going to flow and all you are going to do is make a lot of oil "pressure" but not much additional "flow". There's a HUGE difference between "pressure" and "flow". Contrary to what most guys believe, pressure is actually the negative result of flow. If you had full flow, you would have very little oil pressure. What happens when you eat a rod or main bearing? Your .001" - .003" clearance got chewed-up and is now .020" - .030", or basically ten times more than it is supposed to have, so now you have a huge amount of clearance that oil is just POURING out of. It's like slicing into an artery in your body, blood openly flowing out drops your blood pressure.

Other than the noise of a knocking rod or a squeaking "spun" main bearing, how can you tell when you have a bad bearing problem? The pressure reading on your oil pressure gauge drops WAY down. This is because you've opened-up that clearance way too far and now oil is just pouring out that huge space, which causes the pressure to drop way down. So, you increased the flow, and as a result, decreased the pressure.

Pressure can basically be looked at as "effort". How much effort is the pump going through to push that oil. The thicker the oil, the more the effort, and... the tighter the clearances, the more the effort to push oil into those tight spaces. Just because there is effort there (higher oil pressure) doesn't mean more oil is actually flowing. This again is especially true with thicker oils and why thicker oils create more oil pressure. Let me put this is terms even a kid can understand. Go to the local fast food joint and buy 2 drinks. One soft drink and one milk shake. Take a sip through the straw of the soft drink, now take a sip from the milk shake. It's a hell of a lot harder to sip that thick milk shake up through that straw than it is to sip-up that watery soft drink, right? Oil pumps and oil thicknesses are no different. You increased your effort to sip that milk shake and yet got much less of it into your mouth than you did the soft drink. That's exactly the same thing with oil pressure and oil flow vs. clearances and oil thicknesses, vs. oil volumes and pressures. if you want more milkshake with less effort, get a bigger diameter straw, which is like opening-up clearances on your engine, OR wait until the milkshake gets a bit warmer and thins down a bit. This is exactly like oil pressure dropping when your engine warms-up. It's because the cold, thick oil is requiring more effort (pressure) to push it into those clearances, but when it warms-up and gets thinner, it requires even less pressure, yet your FLOW increased. People seem to think this is such a complicated subject, but it really isn't at all.

Another thing is that higher volume oil pumps put much higher loads on the gears that are driving them, meaning the distributor and cam gears. Chevy engines can handle the higher loads of high volume oil pumps just fine, where most Ford's have troubles. Why? Chevy's use a much larger gear than a Ford does, in fact, it's about twice the size, which means it's about twice as strong. The distributor gear is what takes the load of spinning the oil pump. The more volume you pump through an engine, the more load gets put on that gear.

Ford gears tend to get eaten-up because they just aren't big or strong enough to take the load that a high volume pump puts on it. Once you eat-up a distributor gear it is pretty much disaster for the cam gear as well. If you wipe either one out, count on having to replace the cam shaft! This doesn't even get into all of that metal going through the engine, which doesn't help things like bearings and such.

We tend to use stock oil pumps on Ford's and high volume pumps on "performance" Chevy's where the clearances were opened-up a bit. On race prepped Ford engines that we run high volume pumps on, we use aluminum-bronze gears and just keep a close eye on them for premature wear because they WILL wear out in a short amount of time. In fact, that's what aluminum-bronze gears are designed to do... wear-out instead of the expensive cam wearing out on you. Technology has advanced a little these days with the invention of composite gears. They aren't made out of metal, they're made out of a material that is kind of like carbon fiber and are practically indestructible. The cool thing is they are compatible with all types of cams, from cast iron to billet steel, where before... if you didn't have the right type of gear on your distributor to match the type of cam you had, you were looking at disaster in a short amount of time.

When the 5.0L engines came-out with steel roller cams, they also went to steel distributor gears which are much stronger than the older cast iron gears, but they are still about half the size of a GM gear, so it is still about half the strength, which means you still have to be careful if you want to run a high volume pump. A lot of guys get away with it, but that's just it... they're "getting away with it". In other words, we still see a lot of guys NOT get away with it and then they have a serious and expensive problem to deal with. Going back to everything I explained above, did they really even NEED a high volume pump in the first place? Most likely not. If they wanted more flow, they should have probably just ran a thinner oil which would have increased the flow and not put undue loads on the cam and distributor gears.

Now, some people will say to run a stock pump because it won't rob as much power from the engine as compared to a high volume pump, but they install the "high pressure" spring in it to make more pressure. In some cases, pressure makes volume, but again, volume = load. If you ever forget to hook-up your oil pressure gauge line and you fire the engine up, you are going to have a LOT of oil coming out of that tiny little 1/8" line because of the pressure behind it. If there was very little pressure, not much oil would come out. Like I said; pressure makes volume IF there is a means for flow. But again, pressure increases load.

Some people say that a high volume oil pump will pump all of the oil to the top of the motor and basically empty out the oil pan before it can all drain back again. On some engines, such as Oldsmobiles where oil drain back through the heads is a common problem because of the long - small diameter drain back holes, so in cases like that this "could" have some slight truth to it, but 98% of the time, it has no basis. First off; high volume oil pumps only pump about 15% to 20% more oil than a stock pump does. So that would mean that your stock pump is only 15% - 20% away from sucking your oil pan dry. That's highly unlikely. Again, running thicker oils means draining back through long, skinny holes in some of the heads out there (such as Oldsmobiles) MIGHT be an issue because just like that thick milkshake I mentioned earlier, if you turned both the soft drink and the milk shake cups upside down, which one will pour through the straw better than the other? It would probably take (literally) a minute or two for the thick milkshake to even start to dribble out of the straw under gravity conditions, where by that time, the entire soft drink cup would be completely empty. Thicker oils and small drain back holes in heads would have similar results, but in most cases, most engines have plenty of oil drain back holes and areas, so it isn't a problem most of the time.

In a nutshell, 95% of all engines out there, whether stock or mild performance (under 550 HP or so) will do just fine with standard oil pumps, especially if a little thinner oil is used and if the clearances that aren't too loose.

Plugged In And Ready
Block Plug Basics
Bob Mehlhoff Mar 1, 2002

2/12

3/12
This kit for a 350ci small-block contained: eight 1-5/8-inch freeze plugs, three 1/2-inch expansion plugs (oil galley), one 23/32-inch expansion plug (cam plug), and five 1/4-inch NPT pipe plugs (oil galley).

4/12
At the front of this small-block are three 1/2-inch pipe plugs. Many engine-builders will tap and install 1/4-inch NPT pipe plugs in these three holes for sealing security. If these holes are tapped, it’s important to check for proper thread engagement.
heres a nice additional mod to increase the oil too the timing chain area

whats a windage tray do?

"OK GRUMPYVETTE< I have dumb question? What is a windage tray and whats it for?" windage trays don,t provide a huge boost in horse power, the purpose is mostly in providing much improved oil control, thus they can, if properly designed provide a much more consistent oil supply, and enhanced...

garage.grumpysperformance.com

Speedlink1973 · Jun 13, 2018

I really liked this mod.
I tweaked it a bit for my application .
Being I'm running a timing belt drive system and wanted to get oil to front thrust bearing,
having access to a EDM drill
I drilled a .030 hole at about 60degs
As shown,
I used a piece .05mm pencil lead
To line it up

Maniacmechanic1 · Jun 13, 2018

Nice. Never seen the Chevy Timing chain Oil Spray mod done like that.

Speedlink1973 · Jun 13, 2018

Maniacmechanic1 said:
Nice. Never seen the Chevy Timing chain Oil Spray mod done like that.

I was a bit concerned about that front thrust bearing not getting much oil because it's trapped in the housing.
Hopefully it works.

Thanks

Grumpy · Jun 14, 2018

notice the open slot between the rear main cap supporting the oil pump and bearing shell support and the area supporting the rear main seal, this prevents PRESSURIZED oil from the bearings reaching the rear main seal.

when clearances allow longer length, quality oil filters provide significantly larger surface area, this tends to both reduce pressure drop,
and increase the useful filtration time before the filter tends to partially clog due to trapped debris,
yes they still require frequent replacement but they tend to do a better job, over the same time frame

the as cast recess in the rear main cap where the oil pump mounts can be rather restrictive and shallow, so a bit of careful mill or grinding work to open up and add some depth certainly helps oil flow if its done carefully

failure to use the correct oil pump,mounting stud, bolt or nut or carefully check clearances when mounting an oil pump can cause problems

ONE RATHER COMMON MISTAKE IS USING THE WRONG OIL PUMP STUD OR BOLT TO MOUNT THE OIL PUMP AS IF EITHER EXTENDS THRU THE REAR MAIN CAP IT CAN AND WILL BIND ON THE BEARING AND LOCK OR RESTRICT, SMOOTH ROTATION

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-bearing-trashed-in-1-2-hour.5141/#post-71921

A simple modification to the upper thrust bearing may be beneficial in some engines. Install the upper thrust bearing in the block to determine which thrust face is toward the rear of the engine. Using a small, fine tooth, flat file, increase the amount of chamfer to approximately .040" (1 mm) on the inside diameter edge of the bearing parting line. Carefully file at the centrally located oil groove and stroke the file at an angle toward the rear thrust face only, as shown in the illustration below. It is very important not to contact the bearing surface with the end of the file. The resulting enlarged ID chamfer will allow pressurized engine oil from the pre-existing groove to reach the loaded thrust face. This additional source of oiling will reach the loaded thrust face without passing through the bearing clearance first (direct oiling). Since there may be a load against the rear thrust face, oil flow should be restricted by that load and there should not be a noticeable loss of oil pressure. This modification is not a guaranteed "cure-all". However, the modification should help if all other conditions, such as surface finish, alignment, cleanliness and loading are within required limits.

Speedlink1973 · Jun 14, 2018

Grumpy said:
notice the open slot between the rear main cap supporting the oil pump and bearing shell support and the area supporting the rear main seal, this prevents PRESSURIZED oil from the bearings reaching the rear main seal.

the as cast recess in the rear main cap where the oil pump mounts can be rather restrictive and shallow, so a bit of careful mill or grinding work to open up and add some depth certainly helps oil flow if its done carefully

failure to use the correct oil pump,mounting stud, bolt or nut or carefully check clearances when mounting an oil pump can cause problems

ONE RATHER COMMON MISTAKE IS USING THE WRONG OIL PUMP STUD OR BOLT TO MOUNT THE OIL PUMP AS IF EITHER EXTENDS THRU THE REAR MAIN CAP IT CAN AND WILL BIND ON THE BEARING AND LOCK OR RESTRICT, SMOOTH ROTATION

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-bearing-trashed-in-1-2-hour.5141/#post-71921

A simple modification to the upper thrust bearing may be beneficial in some engines. Install the upper thrust bearing in the block to determine which thrust face is toward the rear of the engine. Using a small, fine tooth, flat file, increase the amount of chamfer to approximately .040" (1 mm) on the inside diameter edge of the bearing parting line. Carefully file at the centrally located oil groove and stroke the file at an angle toward the rear thrust face only, as shown in the illustration below. It is very important not to contact the bearing surface with the end of the file. The resulting enlarged ID chamfer will allow pressurized engine oil from the pre-existing groove to reach the loaded thrust face. This additional source of oiling will reach the loaded thrust face without passing through the bearing clearance first (direct oiling). Since there may be a load against the rear thrust face, oil flow should be restricted by that load and there should not be a noticeable loss of oil pressure. This modification is not a guaranteed "cure-all". However, the modification should help if all other conditions, such as surface finish, alignment, cleanliness and loading are within required limits.

Grumpy · Jun 14, 2018

your trying to provide a bit of extra oil flow volume too the rear facing surface of the thrust bearing
yeah a 2lb dead blow hammer to gently whack or two on both sides and the bottom surface, on the blocks main caps after you've torqued them into place to verify they are firmly seated and a quick recheck on the torque settings is generally a good idea,
this is also a good idea when checking clearance's with plasti -gauge on main bearings)

plastigauge green - Google Search

and cutting a shallow , .006 thousands deep)oil groove in a thrust bearing vertical surface to add additional oil flow to the crank/bearing surface to help lube that surface as you depress the clutch with a jewelers file certainly aids increased durability

2 lb. Neon Orange Dead Blow Hammer

Amazing deals on this 2Lb Neon Orange Dead Blow Hammer at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

EZE-Lap Diamond Needle Files - Lee Valley Tools

Discover the Eze-Lap Diamond Needle Files. Buy this product now on our Lee Valley online store.

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70M0244-600x-eze-lap-diamond-needle-files-set-of-6-f-20.jpg

Maniacmechanic1 · Jun 14, 2018

The Upper main thrust bearing you Mod.

Grumpy · Dec 25, 2018

if youve ever seen an engine puke a connecting rod at 6000 rpm plus,
you know the vast majority of the full 5-8 quart oil pan capacity can be almost instantly,
thrown under the car, this alone generally can cause the car to loose control even if the driver keeps his cool, during a cataclysmic,
engine failure, so having a lakewood or similar blow proof sfi rated scatter shield,
bell housing and a engine diaper are required in many of the faster racing classes

for those without access to the current/2019 NHRA Rule Book

GENERAL REGULATIONS

1:8 LOWER ENGINE CONTAINMENT DEVICE
In classes where specified, must utilize an NHRA-accepted lower
engine oil-retention device. SFI Spec 7.1 or 7.2 Lower Engine
Containment Device permitted. A properly fitting lower engine
ballistic/restraint device mandatory. The NHRA Technical staff
can accept or reject any device. Any device that fails to perform
as required must be replaced or repaired to the satisfaction of
the Technical staff prior to any further runs. When used, an SFI
Spec 7.1 or 7.2 Lower Engine Containment Device must cover
the sides of the block and pan up to within one inch of the head
mating surface and extend to within 1 1/2 inches of the front
and rear of the cylinder case area. SFI Spec 7.1 devices must
be updated/recertified by the original manufacturer at one-year
intervals.

In classes where specified, a belly pan may be used in
lieu of a device attached to the engine. The belly pan must extend
from frame rail to frame rail and extend forward of the harmonic
General Regulations Section 21, page 9
General Regulations balancer and to the rear of the engine block and must incorporate a minimum 2-inch-high lip on all sides unless specified in Class
Requirements. Minimum number of slots or holes in the walls to
clear frame, steering, or lines permitted. A nonflammable, oil absorbent
liner mandatory inside of retention device.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=diaper
engine diapers made from nylon are a waste as header heat rapidly melts holes, making them useless
you want, in fact NEED a nomex and kevlar oil pan diaper to be legal in the faster classes,
and yeah its damn expensive, but serious race cars are a bottomless money pit.

chasracer · Dec 27, 2018

We have been running various nylon diapers on our cars for years now with no problems at all with melting holes, etc. Sure a Nomex piece is nice but not something that a sportsman racer has to have. A diaper is definitely a must-do and I wouldn't make a pass now without one.

Grumpy · Feb 4, 2019

having a larger capacity oil pan is always an advantage , simply having more oil capacity,
tends to help stabilize and lower,lubricant temperatures
but control of the oil is vastly more important, than capacity,alone.
adding an auxiliary oil cooler with a powered fan and AN#8 line size can add measurable extra durability.
theres no real advantage in use of a high volume oil pump in a nearly stock engine,
but if youve made significant changes it can be helpful.
If you post the info on your car make/model
I may know where you can find a baffled high capacity oil pan at a reasonable cost.
take the time too design or purchase and properly install,
a quality lubrication system and your engine will last far longer under high stress conditions
theres no real benefit too having oil pressure over about 65 PSI,
but having a reserve of oil over the oil pump and auxiliary oil cooler,
and long oil filter or dual oil filters has proven to add durability
keep in mind oil does almost all the initial engine cooling so adding a larger efficient oil cooler with a fan
, and as large an oil pan as clearances allow goes a long way toward reducing engine temps,
you certainly will see a difference if a properly sized and installed oil cooler is used.

you don,t need something this large in most cases
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-700040

something like this makes a noticeable improvement
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15800

remember to accurately measure the area you intend to install any oil cooler,
and leave lots of room for the connecting high pressure oil feed & return lines and access to connect them.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/remote-oil-filters.14755/#post-80757

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ion-remote-filter-flow-rate.14621/#post-78252

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ilter-you-sellect-does-make-a-differance.117/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-pumps-pressure-bye-pass-circuit-works.3536/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-info-on-your-v8-lube-system.52/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/

oil system mods that help

WELL DESIGNED AND PROPERLY INSTALLED BAFFLED OIL PANS,WINDAGE TRAYS AND CRANK SCRAPERS GO A LONG WAY TO INCREASING ENGINE DURABILITY THRU BETTER MORE CONSISTENT OIL FLOW RATES yes you can (and probably should) take the time to fabricate a windage screen similar too the one shown in the...

garage.grumpysperformance.com

Maniacmechanic1 · Feb 5, 2019

I still like the 50mm Ammo Can Oil pan idea Grumpy.
Going to get a 8 quart Moroso for a Pontiac V8.
Like to have 11 quarts total.
Just as SD421 had.
Mystery no photos to look at of it but several reports it exists and on a few original Cars.
Think it was the ultra rare 410 Hp rated 13.0:1 static compression version 1963 early.
Possibly only the 9 SD421 Tempests built.
Going to ask the Pontiac guys for photos on a closed race group.

NewbVetteGuy · Apr 2, 2019

This is probably a really dumb question, but if you do the passenger-side oil galley plug modification recommended above (I did), won't this oil eventually soak through a paper timing chain gasket and start to leak / drip?

Should you be using something other than a paper gasket if you do this mod? (Or coat both the back and front of the gasket with silicone / RTV?)

Adam

Grumpy · Apr 2, 2019

in my experience the difference in oil volume soaking the the timing cover gasket is of zero consequence ,
both sides of the timing cover gasket are usually coated with a very thin coat of sealant,
Ive seen engines with over 100K miles have no appreciable oil leaks

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-chains.2209/

NewbVetteGuy · Apr 2, 2019

Thanks.

Should I coat the outside of the timing chain gasket or the inside of the timing chain cover, too? (Currently the front of my motor looks like the "Petersen's 4 wheel & Off-Road picture directly above. (Felpro blue paper gasket attached to the motor with Permatex Ultra Gray, but no timing cover attached as I'm waiting for my timing cover bolts to get here.)

Maniacmechanic1 · Apr 2, 2019

NewbVetteGuy said:
Thanks.

Should I coat the outside of the timing chain gasket or the inside of the timing chain cover, too? (Currently the front of my motor looks like the "Petersen's 4 wheel & Off-Road picture directly above. (Felpro blue paper gasket attached to the motor with Permatex Ultra Gray, but no timing cover attached as I'm waiting for my timing cover bolts to get here.)

It should be Ok

Grumpy · Sep 5, 2023

you should own a set of assorted jeweler's files,

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there's a few dozen areas in an engine

where minor mods can be done that allow you to direct a bit more oil flow to areas that will benefit from a tiny groove like between pairs of connecting rods,or providing a bit more oil to the thrust bearing wear face,or rod journal area mods so oil flowing out between the two is directed up toward the piston, this has a minor effect but helps cool the piston and provide a bit more lube on the bore walls for the rings
the diagram below suggests a shallow (v) groove I'd never use that as it might result in a stress riser, a pair of 1mm deep (U) groove's is what Id suggest

Grumpy · Oct 24, 2023

watch the VIDEO AND TAKE NOTES and follow directions exactly
DART blocks are already this way from the factory,(larger oil passages)
plus feature a much stronger casting and priority main bearing oiling
making the purchase of a dart block for a serious engine build a total no brainier option,
if you intend to exceed about 500 hp with a SBC.

What Is Priority Main Oiling? | Dart Machinery

Making the jump to an aftermarket Dart block comes with a host of performance benefits. One of the biggest, in terms of durability, is stepping up to a

dartheads.com

oil system mods that help

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EZE-Lap Diamond Needle Files - Lee Valley Tools​

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

EZE-Lap Diamond Needle Files - Lee Valley Tools