496ci revamped

why would the difference in the piston rings location in the bore of 1/2 inch of bore depth while your checking the ring end gap,
have any effect at all since the bore diameter is supposed to be consistent over it total length? most builders use a tool that places the ring square in the bore about 3/4"-1" deep from the deck, and use that location to measure the ring end gaps.
now I work mostly on BBC engines and I built a custom ring square tool , out of cheap and easy to find PVC plumbing pipe adapters, (look at the pictures, rick posted,)remember it does not need to be a perfect bore diam. match too square the rings , but of course it must fit down the bore, too use when gapping rings,and on the big block engines you can build and use a custom tool like this without reducing the diam., but Rick went the extra step and built a very similar tool for his SBC projects engine

index.php

index.php


index.php

index.php

index.php



ringapl1.jpg

ringgapl1.jpg

ringgapl2.png

ringgapl3.jpg

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis24000.html


ringgroovetool.jpg

measure carefully as the piston groove depth and back clearance must match the rings you use or youll have major problems

checkringgaps.jpg

#525 is a 220grit hard stone & pretty coarse.
It is what I consider a "production rebuilder finish" & not what I would finish any bore with especially a performance one but it will work with cast iron or chrome
#625 is a 280grit hard stone & mid range suited to moly rings

400-500 grit stones are sometimes used after a 280 grit hone to just prep the surface briefly before final clean-up and moly ring install
31623.jpg

http://www.enginehones.com/lislehones.html

http://www.goodson.com/store/template/d ... 93a1b07466

http://www.wayfair.com/Lisle-Hone-Engin ... 49-IJO1028.

pro-66767_w.jpg

BTW when you go to buy a ring compressor....this type works far better than the others

pro-66766.jpg


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO-66766&N=700+115&autoview=sku


related info, threads and sub-links, you should read carefully

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/#post-17109

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-ring-info-youll-need.509/page-2#post-77252

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/flex-hone.9538/#post-72178

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ling-rings-in-piston-grooves.9490/#post-34908

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/#post-7233

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/#post-30835

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ore-clearance-on-your-block.14251/#post-72471
 
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why would the difference in the piston rings location in the bore of 1/2 inch of bore depth while your checking the ring end gap,
have any effect at all since the bore diameter is supposed to be consistent over it total length? most builders use a tool that places the ring square in the bore about 3/4"-1" deep from the deck, and use that location to measure the ring end gaps.
now I work mostly on BBC engines and I built a custom ring square tool , out of cheap and easy to find PVC plumbing pipe adapters, (look at the pictures, rick posted,)remember it does not need to be a perfect bore diam. match too square the rings , but of course it must fit down the bore, too use when gapping rings,and on the big block engines you can build and use a custom tool like this without reducing the diam., but Rick went the extra step and built a very similar tool for his SBC projects engine

index.php

index.php


index.php

index.php

index.php



ringapl1.jpg

ringgapl1.jpg

ringgapl2.png

ringgapl3.jpg

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis24000.html


ringgroovetool.jpg

measure carefully as the piston groove depth and back clearance must match the rings you use or youll have major problems

checkringgaps.jpg

#525 is a 220grit hard stone & pretty coarse.
It is what I consider a "production rebuilder finish" & not what I would finish any bore with especially a performance one but it will work with cast iron or chrome
#625 is a 280grit hard stone & mid range suited to moly rings

400-500 grit stones are sometimes used after a 280 grit hone to just prep the surface briefly before final clean-up and moly ring install
31623.jpg

http://www.enginehones.com/lislehones.html

http://www.goodson.com/store/template/d ... 93a1b07466

http://www.wayfair.com/Lisle-Hone-Engin ... 49-IJO1028.

pro-66767_w.jpg

BTW when you go to buy a ring compressor....this type works far better than the others

pro-66766.jpg


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO-66766&N=700+115&autoview=sku


related info, threads and sub-links, you should read carefully

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/#post-17109

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-ring-info-youll-need.509/page-2#post-77252

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/flex-hone.9538/#post-72178

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ling-rings-in-piston-grooves.9490/#post-34908

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/#post-7233

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/#post-30835

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ore-clearance-on-your-block.14251/#post-72471
Nice alignment square Grumpy.
 
I'd like to see how you did this!
.
It was actually 1/2" dowels as you can see
The heads are spot faced with a half inch mill so they can drill taped holes out,
On final assembly put intake on line up the far end with one dowel and one at the front put your bolts in the center, snug them down, remove your end dowels and replace with bolts torque to spec.

Note: I did polish one end down a bit to fit heads.
This assure alignment, then I used a bore scope to inspect that I have a straight thru
Airflow.
 

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looks like you have the basics well covered, and many of the more common related,
required tools on hand.. its always great too see a tool display like that, that allows you to verify a lot more clearances,
I always wonder about those few guys that seem to think you can take parts out of the shipping box,
and assemble an engine, with a set of wrenche
s
congrats on what appears to be a well planed engine assembly

are those, what it looks like?
closed chamber design pistons, and open chamber cylinder heads?
yes Im well aware there are universal fits either head chamber design piston domes pistons sold, and the fact you had heat barrier coating applied is a big plus.
yeah I know that either type works fine but it also tends to reduce compression

how do you like that style ring compressor? I find those work far better than most of the other types
While either intake should work on that engine with that cam timing and displacement,
because of the displacement vs the port cross sectional area , even with that reasonably mild cam timing,in that 496,BBC,and,
especially since you have a decent second intake already available,
Id sure test, the two by swapping the intake, for a while, to see the results.
that single plane intake should provide a boost, ID at least try the other intake and let you decide what power curve you like better.
let us know what your impression is, personally Id think youll like the single plane,
as your very likely , going too have marginally less problems with loss of lower rpm traction issues on the street,
with typical street style tires, in wet weather, and a bit more upper rpm power.
While either intake should work on that engine with that cam timing and displacement,
because of the displacement vs the port cross sectional area , even with that reasonably mild cam timing,in that 496,BBC,and,
especially since you have a decent second intake already available,
Id sure test, the two by swapping the intake, for a while, to see the results.
that single plane intake should provide a boost, ID at least try the other intake and let you decide what power curve you like better.
let us know what your impression is, personally Id think youll like the single plane,
as your very likely , going too have marginally less problems with loss of lower rpm traction issues on the street,
with typical street style tires, in wet weather, and a bit more upper rpm power.
Well did some roughing out on victor jr 454 O intake, tomorrow I will finish sand blend , knife inside webs,and knock off rough cast
 

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Victor jr 454 O modification complete
Last picture is how it started out.
Thanks again Grumpy on advice about going with single plain intake,
Intake is not as nice looking but will serve its purpose well.

Added a few more pics

These new ceramic hi temp candy colors are pretty cool
 

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related threads

if you just assume that the machine shop must have cleaned the parts they worked on carefully...

giphy.gif

Ive seen cylinder heads returned still coated with valve grinding compound in the ports, and blocks with easily a teaspoon worth of mill chips in the crank case area.


a good spray with a quality de-greasing agent and a pressure cleaning would be my first step.
long ago I purchased a decent pressure cleaner as it makes getting the crud and grease off a block or transmission much less difficult
65909.jpg

http://www.lowes.com/pd_600025-24212-65 ... Heavy-duty
nozzle.gif

a high pressure air nozzle ,with a extended tip,
that allows you to get into and remove solvent and dry the surfaces in the the small recessed areas is a great idea


cleaning all the thread holes with the correct size tap is a very good idea
T-wrench.jpg

related threads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43842
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-62107

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-cleaning.12303/#post-60502

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tap-and-die-sets.1264/#post-6141

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bio-friendly-parts-cleaner.11547/#post-53360

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/page-2#post-48605

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thread-chaser-for-new-block.3774/#post-10002


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-76350

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/should-you-buy-bare-or-assembled-heads.534/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...an-aluminum-intake-manifold.14410/#post-74196

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/think-thru-your-goals.10606/#post-73288

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68206

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-for-new-383-sbc-cam-instal.13109/#post-68326

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-old-heads-in-the-scrap-bin.10728/#post-46832
Hey Grumpy, I have a great idea, well maybe, what about a carwash sprayer
If a power washer is not available?
Around here we have those DIY spray car wash bays, with nice hot water and you can choose soap or no soap.
Just an idea for a low budget guy that doesn't have a power washer , but has a pickup truck, shorts, and flip flops
Plus you will probably get on YouTube
From the guy behind you in line going
"Look at that guy washing engine parts"
Same concept
 
Hey Grumpy, I have a great idea, well maybe, what about a carwash sprayer
If a power washer is not available?
Around here we have those DIY spray car wash bays, with nice hot water and you can choose soap or no soap.
Just an idea for a low budget guy that doesn't have a power washer , but has a pickup truck, shorts, and flip flops
Plus you will probably get on YouTube
From the guy behind you in line going
"Look at that guy washing engine parts"
Same concept
I wash Rear Differentials, Transmissions , and blocks at carwashes.
Cleaning Iron blocks is a challenge because of flash rust.
Best done at 33F to 60F.
The hotter it is the faster flash rust takes place.
Car wash guy attendants will not like you spraying W40 on blocks and parts to stop flash rust.
No Air compressor available.

Best done at home.
But there is the mess of cleanup too.
And soaks into the ground.

Best Tool I bought in last few years is my Gasoline Engine powered Air compressor.
No Electricity needed.
Take and use anywhere.
ITS Economical to use also.
Runs for hours WOT on 1 tankfull of 87 octane gas.
 
Tech question guys
Oil mod on bearing done
Bearing installed
But rear main oil hole doesn't line up
Should I A grind bearing
B grind block
Or C leave it be?
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Ive seen some where over 1/3-to-1/2 the oil feed hole was blocked due to misalignment, thats usually easily cured, by drilling a shallow increased diameter recess in the blocks oil passage to open it to match the bearing or opening up the bearing feed hole, but which ever route you take be sure to carefully clean and deburr both

122655.jpg


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Ive seen some where over 1/3-to-1/2 the oil feed hole was blocked due to misalignment, thats usually easily cured, by drilling a shallow increased diameter recess in the blocks oil passage to open it to match the bearing or opening up the bearing feed hole, but which ever route you take be sure to carefully clean and deburr both

122655.jpg


image_2386.jpg
Thanks Grumpy
 
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Fixed Thanks again!!
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It used to be rare not having the main oil bearing oil feed holes line up.
Seems to be occurring more often.
I open up the main bearing holes and debur with a small pocket knife.
Bad thing is, it's a dart block, you would think it would be a bit better, but so far I haven't been overly impressed with a lot of the better name components,
Guess it's the Tool Maker in me being critical
 
Bad thing is, it's a dart block, you would think it would be a bit better, but so far I haven't been overly impressed with a lot of the better name components,
Guess it's the Tool Maker in me being critical
GM had real elaborate tooling and fixtures in the engine plants.
Seen vintage photos.
Most machined operations done in the same station and fixture.

Same problems your seeing Also on Pontiac V8 aftermarket parts too.
 
Few more pics,
Clearances checked .0025 on crank mains .0035 on main number 5
Rods .0022 crank main pins 2.7498"
Rod pins came in at 2.1998"

Torqued all mains 105 ft lbs
Start torquing at 20ft lbs
Then 60 ft lbs then again at 90 ft lbs
Lastly 105 ft lbs per Dart

Torqued rods 20 - 40- 64 ft lbs
Per scat made sure to put rod
Big chamfer toward the crank
Same with bearings.
Used totalseal powder on cylinder walls, totalseal al8 assembly lube on rings.



Rear main thrust set at .005 end play

Cam set .005 end play

I gapped my rings per total seal, top and second ring to
.0055x every inch of bore diameter
Came to be .0237 I rounded up. 024
This will allow me up to 150 shot of Nos.

I don't have any plans on Nos anytime soon,
But being it's a gapless ring anyway
I thought it doesn't hurt to be a bit big
Then another tear down just to file rings
For Nos.

I posted a picture of thermostat
On purpose, working in meteorology
For a few years makes you see measuring things in a different light, parts need to acclimate to a room at 72 to 68 degrees to give you the most accurate reading.


Degree wheel setup top dead center is located and ready to start checking cam.
Done for the night
 

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Few more pics,
Clearances checked .0025 on crank mains .0035 on main number 5
Rods .0022 crank main pins 2.7498"
Rod pins came in at 2.1998"

Torqued all mains 105 ft lbs
Start torquing at 20ft lbs
Then 60 ft lbs then again at 90 ft lbs
Lastly 105 ft lbs per Dart

Torqued rods 20 - 40- 64 ft lbs
Per scat made sure to put rod
Big chamfer toward the crank
Same with bearings.
Used totalseal powder on cylinder walls, totalseal al8 assembly lube on rings.



Rear main thrust set at .005 end play

Cam set .005 end play


Degree wheel setup top dead center is located and ready to start checking cam.
Done for the night
I see you used Total Seal Quick Seat Powder.
I have some but have not used it yet.
What Piston Rings did you use ?
 
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