TBucket 200-4R Transmission Project

I've already spent way more than I should have, will have to pass for now. Thanks for the info thou!
 
yeah its unfortunately a fact that this hobby is a FINANCIAL, BOTTOMLESS pit ,
for parts and tools required, and every time without fail, if you even begin to think
that you have something working correctly , something either breaks ,
on your car or expensive tools, or you see some vastly better,
stronger or more tech advanced component advertised,
or you find out you could do some job far faster ,
and to much improved specs if you purchased some tools you don,t yet own.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hine-tools-like-a-mill-lathe.8340/#post-76623

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/think-thru-your-goals.10606/#post-69974

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-68861
 
if you look at the facts here,
the 200r4 did not fail under stress, or during a race or hard launch, or towing a heavy load or on a long trip in country with lots of hills to climb, and the cars weight and lack of decent traction acts like a fail/safe or fuse,
limiting any shock loads as the tires are much more likely to loose traction before the transmission start's puking its internals.
due to not being able to handle the current engines power / torque .
no, from all the evidence, that was previously posted,
the transmission simply had failed because the shifter / gear selection controls were not properly adjusted prior to starting the engine,
or the cooling lines and coolant level and type of transmission fluid was not functioning correctly.
this is far more common that you might think, and as a result I suggest a good amount of time spent in researching proper cooling accessories, like trans fluid coolers and linkage adjustment be done prior to starting any new engine & trans install.
Ricks doing an exemplary job in refurbishing the 200r4 transmission, and its cooling lines and shifter linkages etc.

and if its properly re-installed and adjusted prior... to that engine being restarted,
I doubt Ricks going to have issues, and now that hes found a source for even more replacement parts and has gained considerable experience rebuilding ,
that 200r4 I would be rather foolish to not give the new re-built transmission a second chance at providing the car with a long happy life.
now just as obviously, if the engine does prove to overwhelm the transmissions ability to provide the car with dependable power transfer characteristics,
looking into how and why components should be upgraded would be a sensible route to look into further.
personally I don,t think Rick's likely to have continuing issues simply because the same basic 200r4 transmission ,
has been used behind the turbo v6 engines an significantly heavier cars with similar horse power.
the 200r4 is a well proven transmission, with an over drive top gear ratio, which is similar the the more common 700r4 used in corvettes, but its more easily swapped with the th350 than the 700r4 .
obviously time and experience and some research into upgrades if it becomes an issue later won,t hurt either.
transdim1.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hing-the-drive-train-to-the-engine-combo.741/
 
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Perhaps it is time to move on and add to the value of this thread about a “TBucket 200-4R project” and follow Indy’s stunningly detailed build and now rebuild of a 200-4R. Let’s focus on that and not lose the wealth of information Indy is generating specifically on the 200-4R. It’s not the most common trans. Finding and archiving this is pure fried gold.
 
yeah, the care and details of the trans rebuild, the pictures and instructional value,
should surely take priority here over all else.
 
I sent an email to TCI who publish the Transmission Life Expectancy chart below. It makes a great
deal of difference where you measure the transmission temperature, I've seen 30°F to 40°F difference
between the Output to Cooler and the Pan. I read yesterday that temps inside the TC can reach 350°F.
For the chart to have any meaning I needed to know where to measure the trans temp.

I'm measuring the temp at the trans output to the cooler. I bought a second sensor for the pan, so
now all I have to do is move the wire going to the sensor and I can measure temps in either place.

So it looks like I had nothing to worry about last summer when on the highway at 70 mph and temps
were reaching 220°F at the output line. It really will be a moot point if the cam being retarded 3.5°
eliminates the detonation while the TC is locked up, this brings the temp down to 180°F at the output.
The pan will be even cooler than 180°F !!!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TCI Technical Support <tech2@tciauto.com>
cb_addaddress.gif



We check the temp in the pan.

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 11:14 AM, Rick Miller wrote:
Message From Store: TCI Auto Default
Name: Rick Miller
Telephone:
Newsletter: yes


Your article about life expectancy begs the question, WHERE are you measuring the temp? At the line going to the cooler or in the pan? I see a significant difference of 30°F to 40°F between the two locations. http://www.tciauto.com/tc/trans-life-expectancy

Thanks!
Rick Miller


trans_life_expectancy.jpg
 
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I'm wanting to screw the center post in and lock it into place. The threads just stop inside the housing
so I need to be able to put a couple of locking nuts on the center post and tighten it down. The problem
comes when you try to find a 13/16 - 16 threaded nut. Nobody makes one, not even McMaster-Carr
carries such an animal. I've also checked with the local fastener supply in town, no go!!!

A jam nut would be best, since one nut that size covers the entire thread of the post on the filter side.
Although it would be easy enough to cut in half a regular nut and then put them on the post with the
machined sides together. Derale only says screw it in until it bottoms out, I just don't want it coming
out with the filter someday. Suppose I could use some Red Loctitie.

Can anyone find a 13/16 - 16 nut???

FP01_FilterScrewThread_00804.jpg

FP01_FilterScrewThread_00803.jpg

Derale 35729 Remote Filter Mount.JPG
 
Ok, must be over thinking this. Just two nuts is almost $20 by the time you include shipping. Surely it's
not going to come out if I put it in by hand with Red Loctite, I don't have the Green. That's more that
Derale suggests.
 
yes if you carefull de-grease the threads, liberally coat those with loc-tite and reassemble your very un-likely to have issues
 
That crossed my mind, but I don't keep used filters around and I would hate to cut up two new
filters. That's still about $20.

It's just not that important, although it would have been nice to get it tight.
 
yes if you carefull de-grease the threads, liberally coat those with loc-tite and reassemble your very un-likely to have issues
IF I CLEAN IT GOOD. Was there some doubt? :cool:

Lots of Acetone and manually running a soaked rag thru the threads with my finder nail and then soaking it in a small
cup of Acetone for 10 minutes. Liberal amounts of Primer and Red 262.

FP02_RedLoctite262_00805.jpg
 
no I had no doubt you would know that, but remember I'm writing the response,
expecting it too be read over by dozens if not hundreds of members,
stumbling over the web site, and over how many years hence who knows!
 
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