Building a S̶t̶r̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶5̶0̶ 383 for Frank the Tank…

If You Really want To Drag Race Hard You Need a Transbrake Equipped Turbo 400 Transmission.
Nothing Better.
Absolutely nothing stronger.
 
Not sure what advance the Davis DUI Ignition comes with from Summit Racing.
If you call them they will custom build what you want Jimmy.

I say 20 degrees at the Crank Mechanical advance.
It will be 10 degrees at the distributor checked on a SUN Distributor machine.
Dial in 12-16 degrees initial.
Usually works nice on a SBC Street engine pump gas.
Be 32-36 BTDC Total timing no vacuum advance.

22 -24 degrees also Ok At crank build.
More for mild non performance cams.
Stock .
 
Hey guys,

So my starter motor died... :(

For a while it was only an intermittent short grind after the engine kicked over, then at the track it started to screech then started to not want to turn over… it got to the point that I was imagining I only had a handful of starts left, so I left it running while I refuelled on the journey home… it was a frankenstarter that I had made out of two old starters, so can’t complain really.. got my moneys worth.. :)


I’m keen on opinions as to what style of starter is best as far as value (cheap..) and reliability… the old starter didn’t seem to struggle (while it was working.. ) to turn the engine over, so, I don’t think I need a super strong starter.. I can’t afford a big brand starter anyway… Is there a mid-level model and brand that will do the job? Most I’ve spoke to recommend a mini high torque starter. I guess the weight saving and higher torque would be of benefit..


I’m still chasing the coolant drip.. Which I hope wasn’t related to the starter failing…? It does drip near there.. Any way to tell if I dismantle the dead starter?
 
Can't you get a re-manufactured starter locally since the old one seemed to work just fine.

I can't see a starter having anything to do with a coolant leak. You need look closely around the top
of the motor to see if it's coming down the back of the engine. Hopefully you don't have a crack in
the block or heads near the starter.
 
Hey guys,

So my starter motor died... :(

For a while it was only an intermittent short grind after the engine kicked over, then at the track it started to screech then started to not want to turn over… it got to the point that I was imagining I only had a handful of starts left, so I left it running while I refuelled on the journey home… it was a frankenstarter that I had made out of two old starters, so can’t complain really.. got my moneys worth.. :)


I’m keen on opinions as to what style of starter is best as far as value (cheap..) and reliability… the old starter didn’t seem to struggle (while it was working.. ) to turn the engine over, so, I don’t think I need a super strong starter.. I can’t afford a big brand starter anyway… Is there a mid-level model and brand that will do the job? Most I’ve spoke to recommend a mini high torque starter. I guess the weight saving and higher torque would be of benefit..


I’m still chasing the coolant drip.. Which I hope wasn’t related to the starter failing…? It does drip near there.. Any way to tell if I dismantle the dead starter?
The Original Delco 10 MT starter motor is the most reliable In the High Torque version.
They are getting rare to find in the USA now.

2nd best option I have found is the Factory GM 8.1 LITER 496 Ci. BIG BLOCK CHEVY GEAR REDUCTION STARTER MOTOR.
I went this route on my 1999 Chevy Tahoe earlier this winter.
Be back with the Napa part number for you.

3rd is Power Master or Tilton Mini starter.
Tilton is the very Best and will cost $375- $500.
 
I don't have any good High Torque 10MT starter cores left.
I rebuilt them all and installed on all I have but the 70TA and 1999 Chevy Tahoe.
Hard to find now even on ebay.

China junk allover.
PIA.
 
Can't you get a re-manufactured starter locally since the old one seemed to work just fine.

I can't see a starter having anything to do with a coolant leak. You need look closely around the top
of the motor to see if it's coming down the back of the engine. Hopefully you don't have a crack in
the block or heads near the starter.

Hey Rick!

Yeah, I’m not sure if they’re available locally. but, I’ll ask around.. trying to get in touch with an autoelectrician near by... my father recently replaced his.. waiting to hear what he paid..

I was more asking if coolant getting in the starter might have caused it to fail..? I’m still hunting the coolant leak.. it’s nothing obvious, but concerned it is a crack in the block.. it seems to be coming from a little further forward of the starter and heading along the edge of the oil pan and dripping off the back of the oil pan.. it’s stripped a lot of the paint off the pan and the block..
 
Just did a quick research and see that my externally balanced 383 has a 400 style 14” 168 tooth flexplate, so I need a staggered bolt pattern yes?
 
look at your block, some blocks have two different bolt patterns for mounting a starter,
and some starters have dual sets of bolt locations
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/flexplate-and-starter-issue.14617/#post-88387
HX45bsp.jpg

straitspl.jpg
 
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