Procharged Gto

Electrical matters. The high flow pumps create more flow of both fuel and electrical current. So it is a good idea to upgrade the wiring to 10 or 12ga. As these pumps can draw 15 or more amps. I like to begin this wiring upgrade at the pump itself inside the gas tank. I mean, look at these tiny wires coming off the factory fuel pump pigtail. I'm pretty sure that is 16ga..



How is that gonna flow enough current to create all that fuel flow? So I like to replace the pins in that connector with something i can attach 12ga wires to. To bring all this robust power through the lid I like to take both power and ground pins in the connector and splice them together with the 12ga power wire from the pump. Like this..

 
I like to drill a hole in the lid and run a 1/4" bolt through it and have that serve as the ground for the pump. Here is what that looks like on the inside of the gas tank..



On the outside of the tank I connect a few ground wires to the stud and I merge both pins of the connector into a 10ga cable to replace the length from connector to connector in the sub harness..



With the harness carefully taped up and re secured in it's original position this almost looks stock. Except for my ground stud..



One last thing before we seal this up and re install it. Because we are sending more current into the tank I feel it is a good idea to upgrade the ground strap to the tank itself. I am doing this with 2x 12ga wires..

 
Next up for our fuel pump power circuit we need to do something about the boost-a-pump. The one that is in the car now is working but it is an early model with a knob to adjust the voltage when in overvolt from 17.5-21. As we step out on the ledge with this bone stock 90k mile LS2 from 2006 we need to take away variables that can change the tune we are about to set up. So we are swapping in a newer Boost-A-Pump without the adjustable knob. Otherwise it is the same 40A rating..



We also want to change the relay and bring the power circuit out of the fuse block altogether. The fuel pump relay used by the manufacturer is small and when looked at with it's micro fuse one can easily understand why this circuit needs to be built outside the fuse block. We like using the Spal fan relays. They have 12 or 10 ga wires and connectors and can support the heavy load requirements of the big spal fans. For comparison in the picture below the spal fan relay is on the left and the fuel pump relay for the 2006 GTO is on the right..



So we open the harness that leads to the fuse block and find that green/white wire that is the control for the primary side of the fuel pump relay that comes directly from the ecu/pcm. And we attach that wire to our new relay and run the secondary side directly to the battery and into the fuel pump booster. And a 10 GA wire from there to the fuel pump at the back of the car. Here is the finished Boost-A-Pump swap..

 
be aware that the cross sectional area of both the fuel lines and fuel filter medium,
and the fuel pressure regulator and return line cross sectional area all effect the fuel delivery efficiency
and fuel delivery consistency is critical,, you need a certain, dependable,
fuel volume available, pressure increases only go so far in correcting lack of required fuel delivery issues,
and you might get by with a cars stock 3/8" lines on a dyno , but once your dealing with inertial loads,
and longer duration, high power runs a 3/8" line is usually hopeless on a 750-1000 hp engine

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/setting-up-your-fuel-system.211/#post-26636

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-big-a-fuel-pump-do-you-need.1939/#post-21738
 
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Agreed. When this ls2 finally lets go and the b15 goes in with the upgraded blower head unit we may well have to revisit fuel supply.
 
Next we need to do something with the Mass Air Flow sensor. This car has original LS2 MAF. Here is the oem MAF in the boost hose just before the throttle body..



It's not what's on the outside that counts. It's what is inside that really matters. And take a look here. The factory LS2 maf has a screen. A diffuser to equal the airflow across the whole tube so the small sensing element in the center can get as accurate of a reading as possible. Here are the old and new MAF side by side on my toolbox..



Oh yes. The MAF on the left is gonna let a whole lot more air pass through it without any resistance. But in a larger tube the air will move slower and so this maf setup will return a lower hz for a given airflow and will need a new calibration once I get this bad boy back together and start the tuning work. But at least there wont be a restrictor that will create a pressure differential on either side of the maf at high engine speeds. Here is the new MAF installed and wired in..

 
I took this picture of the undercarriage to show all the other stuff that has been done to this car. Some of it we did. Some of it was done before the car came to us..



The rack is holding the car up front and rear by the sub frame connectors we welded in. The exhaust went in years ago, the oversized aluminum shaft from the driveshaft shop was in before we ever met this car but we did have to clearance some hardware that was sticking down from the rear seat belts and eating into the oversized shaft. This GTO deserves the extra power. It is prepped and ready for it.
 
Well, it is almost prepped. Back under the hood with that new MAF removed we can see the factory plastic tank radiator behind the condenser..



And what's worse when the procharger kit went in one of the fans shrunk considerably in size to make room for the power adder..



We seek to make this right. There is actually a good bit of room in between the condenser and the intercooler. I am pretty sure there is enough room to place a fan in between the two..



For a 3 fan cooling circuit I will wire 2 fans together in parallel and then with 2 fans as 1 I will build my low/high relay circuit out of 3 relays. In this specific position I will likely wire both fans in the shroud from procharger as 1 and then use the pusher fan we are going to get as the second fan in that circuit. But I am getting ahead of myself. First up we need to get a new radiator in this GTO. Sadly Dewitts and Be Cool do not make specific radiators for the 2006 Pontiac GTO. There are 2 names that do and we went with Cold Case. Here is that radiator..



Also for GTO there is only one radiator no matter if you had the automatic or manual. The manual cars just didn't use the cooler. But ALL GTO radiators have it. So the relocated factory power steering cooler is hanging in front of the intercooler. We are going to re-purpose the trans oil cooler in the radiator to serve as our power steering cooler and eliminate the factory p.s. cooler. More pictures tomorrow.
 
thats potentially a good idea,
saving hard to find and access, space in the engine compartment
 
Well, it is almost prepped. Back under the hood with that new MAF removed we can see the factory plastic tank radiator behind the condenser..
I'm not completely sure what you mean, could you annotate the drawing sometimes? I just don't see the intercooler you show in the photo before the plan view of the cooling system.

42_23.jpg
 
Ya. That's a nice arrow. If the fan and motor aren't too thick I might be able to stuff a 16" fan in there.
 
Before the new radiator goes in we need to change the quick connect fittings in the TOC that is becoming our PS cooler. These fittings are a common size even thou they are metric. They are m18x1.5 to -6an male..



And we will just use some push lock fittings and trans cooler hose to complete that once it is back in the car. Since we now have a new ps cooler to use we can remove the old. Here is where it was mounted. Directly in front of the intercooler..



And here it is just before getting repurposed as our internal garbage dumpster cooler..



Amazingly the instructions for some of these power adder kits tell you to remove the ps cooler and connect the two hoses together. I try my hardest to never do that. So with that out of the way we can turn our focus to the fans. The car came in with 2. We were thinking about adding one and today I have decided we should have 4. So. Here are my 2 fans I added to the front of the condenser. They are hard wired to parallel so there are only 2 heavy gauge wires coming from them..



I have also rewired the shroud and 2 fans from procharger in the same fashion..

 
I have to load my pictures into windows paint and hand draw my arrows. You guys haven't seen that abortion, yet. Indycars has professional 2 tone arrows.
 
I have to load my pictures into windows paint and hand draw my arrows. You guys haven't seen that abortion, yet. Indycars has professional 2 tone arrows.

As smart as you are;);), look up at the top of paint and see the symbols and you can INSERT them any way you want and COLOR. You're just funnin' about drawing in arrows aren't you?:D:D
 
Thank you T-Test. I mean, no. No I would never do something like that. ...Of course I knew that. I don't know where this picture came from..

bhjk.jpg


There's just no excuse for my oversight here. Terrible. Well it wont happen any more.
 
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Sadly, I am a mechanic working for someone. So I don't get to just stay working on the things I want like adding power to the fast and cool car(s). I sometimes have to work on the mundane. And after my lunchbreak this afternoon that GTO never looked so far away..



I have a small job to wrap up on this C6..



That car is getting a clutch, the clutch hydraulics(master & slave), and I gotta rebuild the torque tube and change front and rear springs and stuff. The torque tube on this car was beginning to crack at the weld as some do. When I rebuild them, I change all 3 bearings, both couplers, all snap rings, the 3 O-rings, and the slinger. This time we had to go a step further and take the aluminum tube to be welded. Custom Fab did a good job and we are happy with the results..



I love these arrows. And I will move as fast as i can so i can hurry up and get back on that GTO.
 
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