Thanks guys..
I wait till the next day to let some of the mud dry on the truck then smack the frame and suspension with a wooden hammer.
Alot of the big chunks fall right off. It takes 5 hours to power wash the truck completely clean. The hardest part to clean is the interior because
the truck sits so high in the air. I drilled strategically placed small holes in the floor to allow the water to drain out.
On another note.... I have been doing more thinking on the rear oil leak issue... There are a couple things that I over looked that may be the culprit.
1st.... I believe I may be building to much pressure in the crank case because of the extra boost and the wider ring gaps... I noticed that I am pushing oil
out the front of the valve cover holes. I need to install the header E-VAC kit that I purchased.
2nd thought is that I installed the remote oil cooler adapter on this rebuild. I did not have the lines at the time to install the cooler so I
just plugged the inlet and outlet holes in the adapter plate where the lines thread into it. Wondering if they may be the cause of the leak
or maybe even the adapter plate itself may not be screwed on tight enough and the O-ring is not completely sealing.
I have what we call a diaper bolted to the frame to protect the engine and front of the transmission from getting muddy or wet. it is basically a
3' x 6' sheet of 6 mil vinyl used under the shower floor pans in a home. It is held to the frame on the truck with 1/8" x 3/4" wide strips of aluminum
that I screw to the frame. Works amazingly well at keeping the engine compartment clean. That along with the scatter shield I made for the flex plate....
stops about 95% of anything from getting into the engine bay.
Anyway.... I had seen oil dripping onto the front driveshaft and instantly thought of the rear main seal without actually taking the diaper off.
Now that the truck is clean again I can remove the diaper and drive the truck around out back... then I can actually see where that leak is coming from.
I don't discount the fact that I may be building too much case pressure and it could be pushing oil out the gaskets also.
One way or another I will solve this issue.
GRUMPY..... If you are reading this... I have a question for you.
Will pulling too much timing cause the SBC to run hotter?
At WOT and 12 lbs boost my timing is at 18 degrees. My base is 34 degrees.
(Remember that I am running E-85 for fuel.)
At 10 psi boost I am at 19 degrees
My spark table map is commanding 34 degrees until "0" vacuum. After that I have it set for 29 degrees
around 12 psi. I smoothed the map from 0 to 12 psi so it is gradual.
Also in addition to the spark table map, I have the hand held controller pulling .8 degrees per pound of boost.
I think this may be a mistake because I manually programmed the the spark table to pull timing.
Any thoughts on this?
My AFR'S are set at 7.1 on the e-85 scale under full boost, but the computer is correcting
them to 6.1 under full boost.. This is rich....
I only ask because the coolant temps where reaching upward of 215 degrees that day.
I changed my timing table to pull about 10 degrees extra timing under boost for what I thought was a safety reason for the new rebuild...
The old tune had the base set at 34 degrees, then pulled back to 29 at 9 lbs boost.
The coolant temps stayed at 195 degrees.