Oil Pan Damage !

I made some studs so I could see better just how far I was from getting the pan to fit. The clearance
I needed was really very small , maybe 1/16". So I ground as much as I thought prudent from that
corner of the oil pump.

FP05_OilPickupClearanceToPan_02888.jpg

With the studs and some longer hex head bolts I was able to bolt the pan in place, below you can
kinda see where the pump is dimpling the pan from the inside. The camera doesn't do it justice,
but you can see and feel this dimple.

FP05_PumpCreatedDimple_02878.jpg

I also had modeling clay on the bottom of the pump ( NO Pickup is installed on the pump ), the pump is
essentially the same depth as the oil pickup. I'm going to use the bottom of the pump body for my reference.
This way I don't have to fully install the pickup and then possibly have to remove it for modification.

Looking at the photos below I can say that I have 3/8" to almost a 1/2" clearance.

FP05_OilPickupClearanceToPan_02880.jpg
FP05_OilPickupClearanceToPan_02884.jpg
FP05_OilPickupClearanceToPan_02885.jpg
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If I remove the scraper and windage tray, then I can get a good swing with a hammer to give
me some clearance for the oil pump.

I tried to help the camera see the horizontal line in the pan where the oil pump hits the pan.

FP06_OilPumpBodyClearanceToPan_02890.jpg
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so it seems the oil pump casting lower edge has adequate clearance to the oil pan sump floor,
but your issue sure seems to be not with the pick-up to floor but the oil pump casting to oil pan rear vertical wall clearance?
and yeah, thats where almost all aftermarket oil pumps and oil pan combos have issues with clearance,
 
Tomorrow I will see how much heat I can put into that vertical surface with a MAP gas torch and
then try to stretch it with a hammer.

This pan just fits different than my old pan, it's not as wide where it goes over the front rear
seals. I have to pull it down with the fasteners making it spread out a slight amount.
 
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0E3022E4-EF55-4D25-B02A-B9DAC9A61B57.jpeg Do you have a press like I have from HF? A few chunks of wood like a short piece or two of 2X4”maybe a short 4X4” or 6X6”
Stop by a Home D. And check out the scrap box in the lumber dept for some freebie pieces.
I’d like to play with that pan for an hour or so. I would get some fun out of it and for some odd reason I’m good with banging out stuff.
 
Rick.. You wont need to swing the hammer hard.. Hold the torch in one area enough that the metal starts to tun dark red.. NOT bright
cherry. You should be able to use light taps with a small hammer to work the metal out a small amount. Remember ...
the pan is around 20-18 gauge material so it will move easy when heated.
I think the MAP gas will get it hot enough.

You may even be able to place a piece of 2x4 block toward the front of the pan and use a turn buckle to push against the block while the other end is pushing the pan out . Still need to heat the pan but this way you can tun the buckle instead of trying to swing a hammer.


Something like this....

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardwar...ckle-in-Zinc-Plated-2-Pack-321852-0/203809876

Just have to attatch it to the block and stick a screwdriver in the end that is against the pan
to keep the ends from spinning. This is a poor mans "porta power" for thin metal.

I have used this method for removing dents in cars also.
 
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the pan is around 20-18 gauge material
I measured the material thickness at .061, so it's must be 16 gauge. I remember now while talking
with Canton tech, they said it was 16 gauge. Hopefully that won't change it too much when heating.

I'm concerned about warping the pan by pushing on it from diagonal corners.
 
With the grinding on the corner of the oil pump and adding a small additional clearance by heating
and working the metal (OK beating the metal!) I was able to make the Canton 15-240M oil pan fit.
There was not enough warping of the pan from the heat to make a difference in the fit, it went right
on with no problems.

I can't say it's pretty, but it is functional.

I learned you can't paint over a zinc coating (Galvanizing) with the last oil pan, so I used RED Scotch Brite
and a flap disk to remove the coating and smooth the weld seams before painting. But even before that, I
had to remove most of the sharp edges associated with stamp metal objects.

The paint came off with just a blast of compressed air!

FP07_PaintingOilPan_01974.jpg

FP07_CantonOilPanModification_02896.jpg
FP07_CantonOilPanModification_02893.jpg
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Paint will stick to Galvanized steel when you use epoxy primer first. FYI, epoxy primer is good for at least 600 degrees.
 
That's some expensive stuff at $25-$30 for a rattle can. I've already removed the zinc coating,
so I should be OK with normal paint.
 
I have to search for the invoice, but the last K2000 Epoxy primer I bought last month was close to $21, I I thought that was too much. I boycott Eastwood anymore so it wasn’t from them. I’ll get back to you just for future reference sake.

Last month I bought a 0.5 oz touch up tube from Rust Oleum at Advance A. It was $15 plus for universal white. Wally mart was my next stop that day and they wanted $9.98 for the same thing. But too late, AAuto got my money already. I needed more in a pinch and Car Care was on my way home yesterday. Even though CC is part of Advance A. they carry different brands, they sell Duplicolor. Duplicolor use to be good but now that they are made by Krylon it sucks, their paints don’t match (if you are in need of touch up paints). Krylon is good if you are painting your grandson’s Big Wheel, or destroying a Trump sign and that’s it!
 
anymore progress on getting the new oil pan and pump combo,
to fit and function and be mounted on the T-bucket??
 
It fits now, I've been working on removing the sharp edges and preparing to paint. So far I have
the primer and color applied. About to put some clear on now.
 
Congrats on the pan fix. If you want to go overboard you could always put a light coat of bondo on the pan to
smooth it out before primer and paint.
But then again....a good metal working guy would not need bondo! :D:D:)

HAHAHAHA!
 
Got all my painting done including color sanding with 800 and 1000 grit paper. Went over it with
polishing compound and then some wax.

FP08_OilPanPrep_02897.jpg
FP08_OilPanPainted_02900.jpg

Next was to get started on the clean up. I decided to remove the rear main cap so I could get better access
to the grooved gasket surface. The front groove in the timing chain cover had to be cleaned in place. I had
used silicone sealer on both the front the rear grooves, so this took several hours to get properly cleaned.
Pulling the rear main also allowed me to inspect the bearing.

FP08_RearMainCleanUp_02903.jpg
FP08_RearMainCleanUp_02902.jpg
FP08_FrontPanSeal_02910.jpg
FP08_RearPanSeal_02911.jpg
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As usually damn impressive photographic skills!


personally I think ID have been very tempted to RE-TIG weld
p12818.jpg

any suspected seams then high speed rotary wire brush
rotarywire1.jpg

the welded seams or barely surface grind the areas reasonably clean & smooth and brush the areas over with J&B epoxy,
to result in a mirror smooth seam before painting,
now admittedly this would do little to nothing to improve anything but the appearance,
as I'm reasonably sure the oil pan is already leak free,
but It would just not take all that much effort for the minor potential improvement in appearance ,
that the epoxy would make to a seemingly flawless weld,
..YEAH, once more admittedly hardly anyone would even notice!
but I like tig welding and having any excuse to touch up seams...
and yeah theres a very, VERY, small risk that TIG welding the pan,
might cause issues, damage or warping.

BTW EVERY THING LOOKS IMPRESSIVELY CLEAN AND IN GREAT CONDITION< AND BEARING's LOOK GREAT!:D:p:p
I guess IM a bit jealous ,of your T-BUCKET and the result of the new oil pan after the old one was damaged/replaced

jbweld_lrg.jpg

http://www.jbweld.com/faqs/
 
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I did grind on the welds to help with the appearance, then I tested with water for any leaks I
might have created.

I like to have several magnets in the pan to catch any metal debris, I had some from the old pan
and some new ones waiting to be used. The new ones are bar magnets, they are easy to break as
I found out when they are long and skinny.

I setup the magnets so the oil coming thru the trap door would have to flow over at least one
magnet before being sucked up by the oil pump.

FP09_OilPanManets_02908.jpg

These magnets are stronger than one might think. See how it's holding the trap door open. I had to
make sure all the magnets were far enough away so the doors would not be effected.

FP09_OilPanManetsLocation_02906.jpg

Three more magnets for good measure !!!

FP09_OilPanManets_02909.jpg

I've got magnets in the engine valley and the transmission pan also.

FP09_ValleyMagnets_02465.jpg

Finally done, just had to run up to O'Reilys for a M20 x 1.5 plug where the oil temp sensor goes.

FP09_OilPanInstalled_02915.jpg

This time I did like the Fel-Pro instruction indicated, I only put sealer in the four corners. Last time
I had it all the way around on the block side only, including the rear main cap and the timing cover.
That created a lot of work cleaning up before the new gasket.
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