Little Buddy's Little Red 'Vert 'Vette

DorianL

DorianL

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
Well, I went over to see "Little Buddy's" 1970 convertible, automatic, red corvette. Very refreshing! He's got it squeezed in a tiny garage and working on it with very modest tools (metric :rolleyes:) It really is refreshing to see a new car and a youth working on it.

I wasn't available the day he tried to drive it home. It crapped out after a couple of hours of driving. Engine stalled on an incline (could be float level), radiator leak (loose clamp - hoses are not dried out) and... front right caliper leaks. He finally had to be towed home. His parents were quite upset - he's 24 and it is their garage.:D

Though he didn't know it, his master cylinder sucking air and that was it for braking; it became very unsafe. The front reservoir was extremely low. I am guessing seals around pistons... at this point, we can't tell where the leak is coming from, but it looks like the back of the brake pads are wet. I suspect there is air trapped in the system and now it cannot generate enough PSI to leak obviously.

What typically goes south on these calipers? Piston seals?

Does it might make sense to rebuild all the calipers... what do you think? Even if the others are dry?

The carb is missing a return spring and the divorced choke linkage to the bimetal coil. I happen to have a spare Q-jet which was... on a 1970 SBC 400 automatic :rolleyes:. The carb that is on there now is from a 1977 Chevy manual (Little Buddy's 'vette is a THM400). From what I can tell it was never tuned for this car

Would it make sense to rebuild mine and slap it on there as mine if from a 1970 automatic and I know when I yanked it off it was running decently on the SBC400.

As for the VERY spongy steering. Is it a PITA to swap out the rag-joint? Any thing 'vette specific? His power steering is so greasy that I think it is best to replace the rag-joint, lean it up, and reassess.

Another thing that I did not like was there was a serpentine crank pulleys nestled inside the stock pulley... you know the kind that you see running mini blower? I didn't like that...
 
Oh no! Metric tools on a 47 yr old vette! Better find him a set of square jawed vise grips!LOL!
Yes, great Idea for the giving him your carb but take his as your rebuildable core. Although if your carb was sitting and any old gas would have evaporated, I would still spend the $30 - $40 on a rebuild kit just so you know what you have. Otherwise if you don't rebuild and the carb works it just might need adjustment to the idle speed.
For the brakes yes, all four corners for something that neglected.
The rag joint is very easy and is a very common part shared with other models. Summitt has 2 kinds , forget the cheap one!
For some of that "spongy feeling" Count on finding a messy, leaking power steering damper/shock assembly underneath by the front portion of the oil pan. He can rebuild or replace to fix the leaks and return good steering feel.
 
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http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/trouble-shooting-brakes-1.526/#post-6093

http://www.classicperform.com/TechBook/BrakeTroubleshoot.htm

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=3556&p=9442&hilit=fluid+brake#p9442

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/trouble-shooting-brakes-3.380/#post-19106

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-CORVET...ash=item418e453b53:g:IV4AAOSw1XdUXRqZ&vxp=mtr

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/1970-corvette-shop-manual.html

https://www.amazon.com/1970-Corvette-Shop-Service-Manual/dp/B00395CA3S

you really need a good floor jack
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...teel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-60
AS I'm sure you know this corvette hobby is not dirt cheap but it can be very rewarding and far less frustrating if you have a few minimal matching tools like the correct shop manual,
decent jack stands and basic matched hand tools , and a multi meter, timing light,compression gauge and vacuum gauge to work on a corvette, I'd certainly strongly suggest the shop manual, multi meter timing light and SAE hand tools , along with the 4 12 ton jack stands and the floor jack as minimal tools for any corvette owner.
if your like most guys youll find that youll constantly need a few new tools to allow you to do different jobs but the basic tools handle about 80% of basic repairs
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-185-piece-mechanics-tool-set-with-3/p-00953185000P#Imagezoom
searstoolset.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-steel-jack-stands-61599.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/40-in-300-lb-capacity-low-profile-creeper-69262.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/11-function-digital-multimeter-with-audible-continuity-61593.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-leak-down-tester-62595.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-and-assorted-spare-parts-in.3557/#post-20834

over the next few years youll gain experience, and some skills,
hopefully extensive reliable, contacts in the hobby,
and the knowledge friends and mentors to help you use a much more extensive list of tools,
too work on a much wider selection of auto related jobs,
joining two or three local muscle car or corvette clubs may help you speed up the learning process,
and provide several potential mentors and access to people that may prove very helpful,
just realize that in any large group youll find both very helpful and honest members and unfortunately a few scammers and theives.
youll generally find several older guys more than willing to exchange their skills and knowlege and instruction time for a similar amount of effort on your part, they may not need help on the car, but might need help painting a room or trimming a hedge in exchange, don,t fail to take advantage of any offered help, your bound to learn something.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bare-minimum-tools.11026/#post-51843

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tool-chests.1502/#post-18087

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-hand-tools-to-buy.4069/#post-10827

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-but-it-will-get-you-started.834/#post-1466
 
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DorianL said:
Would it make sense to rebuild mine and slap it on there as mine if from a 1970 automatic and I know when I yanked it off it was running decently on the SBC400.
Click to expand...

Yes, but with the additives in today's fuel, (I don't know about the fuel where you are) and alcohol, you will need a rebuild kit
that has gaskets and an accelerator pump that are resistant to these additives. I know that Cliff's High Performance Quadrajets
http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/carbkits.html has everything you need.
 
Be aware that TH400 trans has an electrically activated kickdown, so there will be no kickdown necessary on the existing carb. Maybe rebuilding what he has will be good enough. There is some discussion about the calipers. Some say o-rings are the best, others say it doesn't matter. My opinion is if you are gonna rebuild one, you might as well rebuild them all to avoid having to do it later. As someone said, its a 47 year old car, stuff wears out. The steering we've talked about in a separate thread, but I really like my solid steering joint instead of the rag joint, much better road feel in my opinion. Take a look at the steering ram and the valve for leaks. I think the spongyness you feel is all rag joint, but if those need rebuilding they will be leaking. It's worth looking, rebuilding them is totally easy to do. Your friend definitely needs to invest in imperial tools, metric will not cut it on a 70 Vette, lol. Asking questions here will help as will asking questions on the Vette forums for other opinions. Depending on how well the prior owner took care of the car, he's in for a lot of busy weekends in that garage!
 
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Thank you Gentlemen for the feedback. Great stuff! Much appreciated.

For the moment my main concern is that Little Buddy turns this quickly into a runner. I think he has no idea what he is getting into. He had to clue that the car wasn't metric!

I'll help him out with my tools, but I don't think that at this time I can expect him to afford even the basics... You should have seen what he was using as a floor jack. And his car is on my jackstands now :rolleyes:

This will also be good experience for me. I am trying to keep costs at a minimum to prevent scaring this guy away before we get it running. Working on my future (Darwin willing) C3, I will make very much sure that this is done right with good components.

I ordered last night a carb rebuild kit to resist alcohol, a choke rod linkage that was missing, a carb filter, four caliper rebuild kits and a good quality rag-joint.

Hopefully it will make it over here by Friday.

My carb is seriously gunked up... but it was an unmolested runner when I removed it from the SBC400. Now if only a could find a place here that sells carb cleaner by the gallon to dunk this baby overnight - is there a suitable alternative product?

Little Buddy's carb is not original... has a zip tie holding a throttle bracket, a return spring missing on the vacuum pot, choke rod was missing, there was a small nut and bolt to presumably hold choke open... I think we can safely assume it's been xxxx-ed with. Best to use mine... which coincidentally... is numbers matching!
 
I would highly recommend measuring the calipers for a couple of reasons.
First, it's common practice among the not so honest brake shops to cut rotors down to the minimum allowed , if there is that much left. That way if you return they tell you you must get new rotors.
You may need to shave those rotors a bit but you can't if they are at or below safe limits. If the short little rubber lines from the hard line to the caliper look the least bit old on the outside, you don't know what it looks like on the inside of those lines so I would replace those given how inexpensive they can be.
Make sure he has plenty of brake fluid on hand. He'll need it doing all four corners flushing out and bleeding.
 
Oh, since this car has gunk in the master and it was dry in the front bay it's a good idea to replace that rubber bladder gasket under the cap or the cap and gasket as one whole replacement assuring good sealing.
 
This model should have the kickdown activating switch mounted above the accelerator pedal, not on the carb.

I believe I have one factory orange wire with trans plug and transmission wire support clips left.

Some trans wiring plug connectors had one blade connector for kickdown only.

Early Buick, Olds and Cadillac T-400 (1965-1967) used a second blade connector for the variable speed/pitch torque converters.

Late Chevy T-400 (1968-1982) also used a second blade connector for TCS (Transmission Controlled Spark )

Main issue with Corvette calipers is the seals are mounted on the piston, not on the housing bore.

This makes them susceptible to air entering the caliper if the rotor exhibits any run out.

Other main issue is corrosion!!

Thanks
Randy
 
Drawmain said:
Be aware that TH400 trans has an electrically activated kickdown, so there will be no kickdown necessary on the existing carb. Maybe rebuilding what he has will be good enough. There is some discussion about the calipers. Some say o-rings are the best, others say it doesn't matter. My opinion is if you are gonna rebuild one, you might as well rebuild them all to avoid having to do it later. As someone said, its a 47 year old car, stuff wears out. The steering we've talked about in a separate thread, but I really like my solid steering joint instead of the rag joint, much better road feel in my opinion. Take a look at the steering ram and the valve for leaks. I think the spongyness you feel is all rag joint, but if those need rebuilding they will be leaking. It's worth looking, rebuilding them is totally easy to do. Your friend definitely needs to invest in imperial tools, metric will not cut it on a 70 Vette, lol. Asking questions here will help as will asking questions on the Vette forums for other opinions. Depending on how well the prior owner took care of the car, he's in for a lot of busy weekends in that garage!
Click to expand...
It will need the electric kickdown, not only does it kickdown, it also kicks fluid pressure up to support higher rpms. Without it you'll lose clutches in the gear packs and eventually the entire transmission
 
busterrm said:
It will need the electric kickdown, not only does it kickdown, it also kicks fluid pressure up to support higher rpms. Without it you'll lose clutches in the gear packs and eventually the entire transmission
Click to expand...
I would like more information on how a kick down switch kicks up fluid pressure please.

I can tell you with all certainty the POB cars stopped the variable pitch controls ending in model years of 1967. All TH400s have kick down switches above the gas pedal 1968 and above. There are two mechanisms for controlling shift points. One is the governor massuring rpm's in the tail shaft, the other is the kick down switch sensing the engine's strain using vacuum.
The kick down switch is activated when WOT sends 12 volts to the switch and can only shift down. The vacuum modulator uses manifold vacuum to sense where throttle position is. WOT greatly decreases vacuum pressure so the shifting up occurrs higher throttle/rpm. Most all lockdown switches have a single terminal, grounding is through the transmission case, the 12v (Orange wire) runs up the right hand side along the intake manifold like the vacuum modulator line. If there is a second wire it's for the transmission spark control, a pollution device of that time.
If you are using a later year QJet from a manual Trans car now going on an automatic Trans car you will need to connect a vacuum line from the appropriate vacuum port on the carb to the Trans modulator.
 
There may be exceptions, but with Chevy V8's, the trans. modulator vacuum source is in the intake manifold, between the carb and distributor.

Sometimes the source fitting has multiple nipples, power brake booster etc.

Cable and linkage kickdowns affect fluid pressure and are essential, T 400 electric kick down bleeds off pressure.

I know you meant BOC, as P never had VP.

Thanks
Randy
 
I haven't explore it yet... but there seems to be a vacuum line going down to the trans. At this point we are still trying to get the parts to rebuild his leaking brake calipers and power steering. Once that is done, we will push it through the equivalent of DOT tech inspection. Sidney (Little Buddy) often send me pic and asks advice through WhatsApp, but I must admit it is difficult to remote diagnose speaking a blend of English, Dutch and French... :p
 
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