vertex ignitions

well the way IVE always done that, is you first verify
THE TIMING TABS AND DAMPER ARE AT TRUE TDC ON NUMBER one cylinders compression stroke
drop in the vertex ignition, loosely clamp it ,
(after verifying that theres about .050 vertical slack so it wont bind the oil pump drive rod)
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/distrib-won-t-seat-correctly.9231/#post-33223
and use your timing light and tachometer to set the timing at about 32 degrees at 3000 rpm.
and lock it down
, then check where its timed at idle , and remember the one electrical connection is a switched link to frame ground that should be open if the engines going to run.
obviously if its not running correctly at that point youll advance or retard timing as required by the individual application, a couple degrees at a time until the best ignition timing compromise is found

scan0001.gif

craftsmantiminglight.jpg

WATCH THIS
verify your firing order

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timingtape1.jpg

vertexgrounda.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-tabs-and-indicators.1015/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-top-dead-center.967/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-distributor.9946/#post-38325

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/distributor-gear-wear.1701/#post-4658
 
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Noob question. I have a mag that I want to have gone through. It is in a running engine currently. Can I mark exactly where it is
pull it out, and after service, put it in exactly where it was with the timing not changing?
 
Just picked up a used mag for cheap on ebay to use for my build. Cheap enough I can get it rebuilt and still be way ahead of a new one.

Wanted to add something to this thread that I don't believe I saw mentioned and thats tachometer and rev limiter capabilities.

The mag I bought has a mechanical tach drive. Though outdated this is still effective and somewhat accurate as long as you can find a good mechanical tach and cable.

The other option that I've found is an electronic interface that has options for electronic tach and rev limiter as well as other rpm activated switches. These units are sold at http://www.etcrevlimiters.net/?m=1. I plan to use one of these units for the rev limiter capability.
 
Just picked up a used mag for cheap on ebay to use for my build. Cheap enough I can get it rebuilt and still be way ahead of a new one.

Wanted to add something to this thread that I don't believe I saw mentioned and thats tachometer and rev limiter capabilities.

The mag I bought has a mechanical tach drive. Though outdated this is still effective and somewhat accurate as long as you can find a good mechanical tach and cable.

The other option that I've found is an electronic interface that has options for electronic tach and rev limiter as well as other rpm activated switches. These units are sold at http://www.etcrevlimiters.net/?m=1. I plan to use one of these units for the rev limiter capability.
I used an Autometer Rev Control on my 70TA.
They work but not as smooth as desired like MSD rev limiter.
I rebuild Vertex mags for myself and in the past for a few local dirt track racers.
I have all the special service tools and parts on hand to do it and a Sun distributor machine.
Mag parts are expensive at my cost.
No getting around it.

You want a Vintage Moroso Jones Tachometer. I have a collection of them.
They can run up to $900-2k on ebay.
Watch for deals.
One I have right out of a Vintage Top Fuel Dragster and the cable drive is 12 feet long.
The Tach cables are real hard to find.
Have a few sets put away.

Never used that Rev limiter shown.

Vertex mags were made for all out Race.
Can use on the street.
I do.

Best to use no Rev limiter with a Vertex Mag I think.
Use as much Titanium in the Valvetrain possible.
Titanium valves a Must Have for me in my own for 7000-8500rpm.
Best insurance possible to avoid valvefloat.
Valvetrain good for 8000 becomes 9000 rpm safe with Titanium valves.

Premium forged Connecting Rods a Must have.
Not budget.
Must cost $2000-7000 per set.
Reliable then for Full danger rpm zone.

If don't have like I do then Grumpys way is Best...!
 
All Rev Limiters including MSD induce terrible Harmonics into the valvetrain.
May feel smooth from the drivers seat.
But it's not.
Valve springs are dancing around crazy on the Rev limiter bumped.
It's when Sheet hits the Fan Racing.
 
Not looking to go that deep money wise on this platform. Once its finished and I get it on a dyno I'll figure out where it likes to run. Rev limiters just there for the driveline right? Don't plan to stand on it in the garage to see if it works, maybe at 4k rpm. This mag will clear up any issues I was going to have with clearance on the tunnel ram. Plus theres a lot less wiring to deal with.
 
Any DIY tooling for internal timing these mags. Couldnt come up with any tools other than taylor and $100 for a screwdriver is not very appealing.

I had to make all of my own tools for timing airplane mags while in college. Had to make the degreeing plates and the buzz box. Could time a slick or bendix mag with my eyes closed I had to do it so many times. I would think this wouldnt be any more complicated than that.
 
Not looking to go that deep money wise on this platform. Once its finished and I get it on a dyno I'll figure out where it likes to run. Rev limiters just there for the driveline right? Don't plan to stand on it in the garage to see if it works, maybe at 4k rpm. This mag will clear up any issues I was going to have with clearance on the tunnel ram. Plus theres a lot less wiring to deal with.
If you can get to winter and spring swap meets deals may or can be found from old time racers.
Jones Moroso Tachs became popular in the last 1 year.
Think Vintage Race Cars being restored are in. Why prices went up.
 
Any DIY tooling for internal timing these mags. Couldnt come up with any tools other than taylor and $100 for a screwdriver is not very appealing.

I had to make all of my own tools for timing airplane mags while in college. Had to make the degreeing plates and the buzz box. Could time a slick or bendix mag with my eyes closed I had to do it so many times. I would think this wouldnt be any more complicated than that.
I have and use the Vertex made timing box.
You can get by without.
But may be off startup 1st time.

The service tools costed me $900.
2001 year.
I wanted.
I was Making good money at night building rear diffs for drag racers.
At times making $ 100 per hour on my own.
Then pro tour came along.
Pro Tour died this year 2018.
Racing is back.
 
If you can get to winter and spring swap meets deals may or can be found from old time racers.
Jones Moroso Tachs became popular in the last 1 year.
Think Vintage Race Cars being restored are in. Why prices went up.

Funny a friend of mine was asking yesterday if I wanted to go to the long beach or pomona swap meet. I'm sure I could find some stuff at either of those.

Ive been eyeing a jones tach on ebay figure the 9k should fit the bill.
 
There are Jones Moroso tachometer on ebay tonight to choose from.
Some are fairly low priced at a few hundred.
I would have to say the ones costing $600 & Up are best condition.
Originals were used in Real Race Cars.
Seen real battle.
Buying a Legacy.

My late bud Bill got me into Vertex Mags and Jones Tachs.
I have been into Vintage Cars Race for about 35 years now.
Modern tech is Ok.
I prefer Old School.

Autometer used to make Direct hookup electronic tachs for Vertex Mags.
They have been discontinued.
I have a few of them also.

Automated still makes a signal converter you use with a points or electronic tachometer.
All Mags generate AC voltage current.
Not DC like MSD.
 
Funny a friend of mine was asking yesterday if I wanted to go to the long beach or pomona swap meet. I'm sure I could find some stuff at either of those.

Ive been eyeing a jones tach on ebay figure the 9k should fit the bill.
9K was usually standard model.
Have one that reads 11-12k.
Been a while since I took them out the boxes.

Jones Tachs are Super Accurate.
They were even used in Exotic Road Race Cars 1960's and 70's.
Very Best Mechanical Tachometers ever made.
 
Have $400 cash in your pocket when you go to the swap meet.
Old timers that tell you stories will haggle some on prices.
 
If the cable is intact on the Jones-Moroso Tach you can check by giving it a quick flick with your fingers.
I never have seen a defective one yet.
It will jump up the Tach Needle.

The Tattle Tale models are really KOOL.
 
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