Vintage 302 chevy.

answers in red
Preferences on bearings? I'm looking at king xp series bearings and the machinist uses clevite h series. He installed clevite cam bearings. I feel brands probably don't matter as long as its the right material for the application.
CLEVITE H SERIES
The internet is flooded with answers for these next questions but being only a few chime in on this thread its limits the amount of bs.

Preference on assembly lube?

50% marvel mystery oil
marvel.jpg

and 50% crane moly lubes
crn-99004.jpg

what Ive used for decades
but this works
permassembly.jpg



I'm worried about long term sitting.,


either works but I prefer the top combo

80057.jpg

this stuff is pretty much interchangeable
80063.jpg

Sealant on core/freeze plugs, cam plug or not? Brand and type if so?
see above
All oil galley plugs are threaded. Which loctite should I use?

Also planning to install valley vents and possibly some super magnets. Which epoxy for the magnets?

IVE typically used these magnets in an engine, one in the rear oil drain on each cylinder head, one near each lifter gallery drain and 4 in the oil pan sump
proper magnets trap metallic debris
SmCo Samarium Cobalt Disc Magnets
http://www.magnet4less.com/
many magnets lose their magnetic pull if heated to 200F
these below won,t

proper magnets trap metallic debris
SmCo Samarium Cobalt Disc Magnets
http://www.magnet4less.com/
enginemagn.jpg


jbweld_lrg.jpg


Cleaning tips? What does everyone use to scrub the cylinders when washing? I don't fancy the cylinder brush I see for that purpose.



READ THROUGH THESE THREADS
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/

presw.png

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Hond ... 177499-_-N

heres one area where harbor freight has a few real good items, the cheap long reach air gun nozzles and brushes come in very handy cleaning oil passages

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95100
95159.gif

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=97014
http://www.harborfreight.com/Air-Blow-G ... 68260.html
97014.gif


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95947

95947.gif
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Cleaning cylinder bores - scrub & clean as many times as necessary to get them CLEAN.
You can test with clear packing tape. After you are sure the bores are as clean as you possibly get them,
tape a piece of packing tape to the cylinder wall. Then pull it off and inspect. When it's clean, you are good to go.
They will rust instantly. Use WD-40 or ATF to coat.

If you have access to a lathe, you can make your own SUPER magnetic drain plug. Order a 1/4" dia x 1.5" long
magnet, drill your stock drain plug with a 1/4" bit, and red Loctite it in.

upload_2017-8-17_3-32-39.png
 
I like king bearings personally but clevite are good also as long as you use the right level the king website has allot of useful information I used the xp level for my build.
 
btw I got asked how I apply the 50%/50%
mix of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL AND CRANE MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBE TO BEARINGS
I generally spray crank journals and bearing surfaces with moly spray first , then paint on the mix linked below.
molysp2.JPG


Preference on assembly lube?

50% marvel mystery oil
marvel.jpg

and 50% crane moly lubes
crn-99004.jpg

what Ive used for decades
but this works
permassembly.jpg

I have used J&B WELD EPOXY on a large magnet
https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-ring-magnet-98-lb-pull-10e797/i/G4187224/

LARGERINGMAGC1.jpg

LARGERINGMAGC1.JPG


on the base of an aluminum 1/2 cup measuring cup I purchased at a yard sale for 25 cents to mix up the mixture, the magnet allows me to stick the cup to the block oil pan rail or engine stand where its handy too get at, and I simply brush on the mix with a 1" paint brush, with synthetic bristles that won,t shed
main_bearing_lube_2.jpg

OH! slide it off the block don,t try to just pull it off , its going to be much less messy that way trust me!
when your done , wipe it clean and stick it inside the lid of your tool box , after placing it in a ziploc bag to prevent it from picking up trash while in storage


SYNPAINT.jpg


shopping
 
Last edited:
Thank you all for the replies. Grumpy I like your magnetic (magic) cup idea I'll have to do that.

I'll narrow down the search on summit and see how the two different bearings compare. I'll need the doweled bearings for the rods and I cant remember which one but one of them did not have the doweled rod bearings chamfered. Not that big of a deal but its nice to have it done already.

I finished the preliminary cleaning of the intake lastnight. I have to make some gaskets for the top plate to lower plenum flange. Need to get some new mounting studs and a couple pairs of jets for the secondary metering plates I bought.20170818_180533-3452x1942.jpg
 
Got the cylinder heads back from my friend today. He used a beaker to measure the chambers so it's not as accurate as it could be but all of them came in around 57cc's. Using the compression calculator on UEM's website it comes up with 12.3:1 static and 10.1:1 dynamic. Of course everywhere I checked I get different numbers.
 
 
 
Grumpy said:
you will be using high test race octane gas or E85 at that compression level.
Click to expand...

Grumpy thats what Ive been planning on. I was reading through the thread on the octane levels during lunch break today. It looks like it would need around 105ish octane but 110 is cheaper. I use VP race fuels.
 
please keep us informed of your progress and post any questions you might need answered
 
Spent the day cleaning and stripping the block. Still have a few paint spots to work on but everything is scrubbed down good. Took an hour or two of wiping the cylinders after two washes. They flash rusted after the second good wash so I used some shop towels, wd40 and a lot of wiping to get the towels to come clean. My hands bare the marks of success, they also hurt.
20170827_134037-3452x1942.jpg
 
In the back internal surface of the block above the rear main there were a few small areas that I couldnt get too very well so I cleaned them the best I could by hand. I focused mostly on getting the cylinders cleaned and if I need too I'll go back in and scrub some more in those lower areas.
 
20170blck.jpg

looks good so far


related threads (YES READ THE SUB LINKS)
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rotating-assembly-bearings.9527/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/383-information-overload.11137/
 
Loves302Chevy said:
Looks like you got a good block - virtually no core shift.
Click to expand...

It's very slight if there is. Someone took the time before to make sure they started with something good I'm just making sure it's put back together correctly. Wish I knew the person that built it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top