Single Wire Alternator, No Output?

2Loose

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I've replaced many dozens of alternators and generators over the last 60 years, and this one has me bugged !!

Background, built up a pro street style '58 Chevy pickup in the mid nineties, put it on the road in '98 with a built 502 and solid th400, not much in the way of electrical demand, so just put a pretty standard output alternator, single wire job, on it and it worked just fine for many years...

Then the adjustment bracket broke off and the alternator fan self destructed against the rest of the motor. I had a high output alternator on the shelf, so stuck that on after repairing the adjustment bracket. At idle, that alternator produced a lot of output, and the drag on the v-belt down at the motor pulley, was slipping and "screeching". The "screech" was accompanied by a corresponding drop in voltage output, convincing me that the high output alternator was dragging hard enough to cause slippage at the motor pulley. That belt also wrapped around the water pump pulley, so there was only a 1/4 wrap contact of that v-belt at the motor pulley, a quarter wrap at the water pump pulley, and nearly a 3/4 wrap at the alternator. Plus, I think as the new belt wore a bit, it would bottom out on the motor pulley and lose some of it's "grip", and with that heavy load at the alternator at idle, cause the belt to slip at the motor pulley. Put a new v-belt on, and it was fine for a couple of weeks, but as that v-belt wore in it would start slipping at the motor pulley, as indicated by the "screech" accompanied by the drop in voltage.

So I picked up a new Napa standard output single wire alternator and installed it, and got no output! Hmmmm!! Checked out the system, tried an additional ground from the alternator to the block, still no output. Put the high output alternator back on, it had output, and belt screeching, so I took the alternator back to the store and traded it for another one. Guess what, still no output from the second new alternator. Yes, it is a single wire unit, specs include 50 amps, 646 watts, 14.5 volt set point, alternator turn on speed 2,500 rpm, am really puzzled as to what is happening here. The truck had been sitting in the shop for awhile, the battery is showing only 10.5 volts, maybe it needs more to "activate" the alternator ??
Will put the charger on the battery and charge it up for awhile, see if that makes a difference, but I don't remember that ever being a problem in the past, and I have a long history working on these things....
-Willy

Reference my other thread

My Page: '58 truck
 
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Although I wrote the above this morning, my charger was on all night last night, and I just took it off, before I took it off I flipped the ignition switch on, which also turns on the elec. fuel pump, and read 12.6 v. Disconnected the charger, flipped that ignition (and fuel pump) back on and the voltage dropped to 11.6 v. Cranked it up, ran it for a couple of minutes at around 3 grand, and it pretty much stayed at 11.6 v. This motor is HEI and will run down to about 10 v. before it gives up (as long as I don't step on the brakes, at 10 v that will kill it...), so think I will just go drive it around a bit and see if it shows any indication of charging, as indicated by any slight increase in the voltage from the present 11.6 v.

If it doesn't charge to my satisfaction, it's going back to Napa, and I'll put my high output back in, and just have to deal with the gosh dang v-belts !!!!

I haven't tried any of those belt dressings, any advice there?? If I did try that, I'd be inclined to pull the belt off to treat it, let it dry thoroughly, then reinstall it....
 
A double V groove alternator pulley is best.
Or use a Z28 Camaro L88 Corvette Single groove 4 inch.
More belt wrap.

Or even better a Moroso 5 inch single groove alternator pulley.

Double groove like Buick used not possible on all engines.
I did make it work on the 1965 Olds 425 in my 1963 Pontiac Grand Prix.
Used a Power Master Chrome #112 double V groove pulley.

High amp alternators take 8-10 crank Hp to operate charge correct.
 
To get a decent 1-wire alternator a guy like me has to build it.

Transpo parts I use are not available online.
No listings.
Dorian had one on his TT .
Rick has another CS144 I built him on his T-bucket.
I built myself one recent on my 1963 Grand Prix.
1-wire high output CS144.
 
I just put about 50 miles on it, stop and go traffic, it is charging, but seems to have settled in on this '58 system at 11.9 v. Lights on, high beams, 10.9 v. Hit the brakes w high beams on, 10.6 v. But it is maintaining at those levels. I've never had a system on this truck run that low a voltage before. Am thinking I'll get the digital volt meter out and check out how accurate that voltmeter in the dash is. But it is driveable and no belt screeching....
 
I just put about 50 miles on it, stop and go traffic, it is charging, but seems to have settled in on this '58 system at 11.9 v. Lights on, high beams, 10.9 v. Hit the brakes w high beams on, 10.6 v. But it is maintaining at those levels. I've never had a system on this truck run that low a voltage before. Am thinking I'll get the digital volt meter out and check out how accurate that voltmeter in the dash is. But it is driveable and no belt screeching....
Needs to be at least 12.6 vdc at the battery terminals or its not charging the battery.
 
Its pretty bad now Grumpy.
All electronics are now made in China.
Everything you buy online for electronics the TTL & Microprocessors are made in China.
Auto parts stores too.
They mean well but nothing they can do either.

You have to be a dealer to get Transpo.
Have a friend that is.

Copy cats no name on ebay sold.
Ultra garbage.

Only way to avoid now is to go backwards.
1962 & earlier.
Generators & Points ignition.
Or a Vertex Magneto.
 
Willy, check the grooves on all of your pulleys. They need to look like "V"s.
If they look more like "U"s, then they are worn and will just wear v-belts quickly.

Like Brian said about the electronics, there is also a problem with the rebuilders.
Unless you bought a BRAND NEW alternator, you can't say NEW anymore.
Rebuilt now means that they only replace the 1 or 2 bad components, clean it up, and throw it back in the box for sale again.
Nobody can even say what re-manufactured means anymore. A NAPA near me will only sell a NEW starter or alternator
because they have so many problems with returns on rebuilds and re-manufactured, and NAPA has to eat the cost.

If you convert to a CS144 alternator, you will not have any more problems. Those units are beasts.
 
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Put the charger on overnight, the battery is totally topped off, and this alternator still won't get up over 11.9 v., running from 11.6 to 11.9.
Pulled it off, and put a new v-belt and the "belt eater" 140 amp alternator on, boom, 13.5 v, no screeching !
OK, going to run it like this, with a spare new v-belt under the seat, and might have to look for a new motor pulley, three grooves....
Am good for now though, lights are bright again....
 
Put the charger on overnight, the battery is totally topped off, and this alternator still won't get up over 11.9 v., running from 11.6 to 11.9.
Pulled it off, and put a new v-belt and the "belt eater" 140 amp alternator on, boom, 13.5 v, no screeching !
OK, going to run it like this, with a spare new v-belt under the seat, and might have to look for a new motor pulley, three grooves....
Am good for now though, lights are bright again....
Its a drawback of high amp alternators.
They take alot of Hp to turn when fully loaded to 100 % Duty cycle.
Or full rated amps.
But if loads are low like 5-20 amps not too bad then.

Another favorite of mine is the 1971-76 Pontiac 455 80 amp 15si Alternator.
Takes alot of abuse and withstands real high rpm rotor speeds without blowing up.
 
What you can also do Willy is Glass bead the present alternator driven single groove pulley.
Give it more tooth.

Run an Industrial V-belt if you can find it local.
They are stronger.
Maybe find in an electric motor rewind shop.
I like Dayco belts best when I find them.
 
Triple Groove upper alternator pulley was a Cadillac 472-500 I recall.
Also Mid 70s Cadillac 425 v8 I think had the same.
 
If you have a belt slipping issue....you do realize they make dual v-belt belt alternator pulleys and 3 and 4 v- belt crank pulleys and 3 v belt groove water pump pulleys
dualbe1.jpg


https://store.alternatorparts.com/2-groove.aspx
dualbe2.png

dualbe3.jpg

dualbe1.jpg

dualbe2.png

dualbe3.jpg
 
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I barely have to tighten my belts and not have any slip on my CS-144 alternator. Of course the
amount in degrees of pulley contact you have will certainly make a difference.

FP05_Alternator&VBelts_5055.jpg
 
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