TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

Not sure what the TC would to do with my problem.

Disconnecting the torque converter from the flexplate will take your transmission out of the equation.
 
I adjusted them in static condition at zero lash plus 1/2 turn, then at some point previously
I went thru all the adjustments and backed off another 1/4 turn , so final is zero plus 1/4 turn.
BTW, my original adjustments were done ONE cylinder at a time, so I rotated the crank and
at EVERY 90° I set the next cylinder in this order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

I've checked at both ends of SP wires to make sure they are right.

Not sure what the TC would to do with my problem.

I'm sure Grumpy will support this with documentation:
Rick, here is the 100% absolutely guaranteed precise rocker setting method. More accurate than the 90 degree and EOIC methods.
Does not matter how wild or mild the camshaft.

2 cylinders are at TDC at the same time - 1 is firing, the other is exhausting.
This is for an engine with a 18436572 firing order.
Let's start with cyl #1. #6 is it's opposite. Then 8 & 5, 4 & 7, and 3 & 2.
Rotate the crank until cyl #1 exhaust valve is at MAX lift.
That means that cyl #6 exhaust valve is exactly 180 degrees opposite - guaranteed to be on the base circle.
Adjust valve clearance for #6 exhaust. Then you do the same for the rest.

This whole procedure can be used to set the valves for the entire engine in only 2 crankshaft revolutions.
Here's how: Most camshafts have their max valve lifts happen between 107 and 117 degrees, plus or minus a few degrees.
Look at the attached cam card. http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=23791
Notice at the bottom it says max lift - intake 107, exhaust 117. 112 would then be the middle.
We will use 110 because that is an easier number to deal with.
And 1 valve will be at it's max lift every 45 degrees after that in crank rotation.

So what you want to do is mark your harmonic balancer with 8 dots 45 degrees apart with the first dot being at 110 degrees ATDC.
Think of an apple pie cut into 8 equal pieces. This is relatively easy to do with a degreed outer ring.

I will do the math for you - mark a dot at these degree marks: 20, 65, 110, 155, 200, 245, 290, & 335.
Now rotate your crank to the 20 degree dot. Look at the intake lifter or rocker arm for cylinders 2 & 3.
One of them is going to be at max lift, the other will be exactly 180 degrees opposite or min lift.
You can now go ahead and adjust your rocker arm for the one at MIN lift.
Now rotate the crank to your 65 degree dot. This time you will be looking at the exhaust for cylinders 4 & 7.
Again, one will be at MAX lift, the other will be at MIN lift. Adjust the one at MIN lift.

Here is the (hopefully) easy chart to follow:
Follow either page 1 or page 2 depending on which lifter you started with was at MAX lift.
Remember, it takes 2 full rotations of the crankshaft to fire all 8 cylinders.

CBCC pg1.png

CBCC pg2.png
 
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as always the key is , to think logically, never assume, deal in verified facts,
isolate, to the basics, and test, too find the reason your engines not performing as expected.
thank you for posting the valve adjustment info
 
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I unbolted the torque converter pushed it back, I had about 1/4 clearance. Then I was pressurizing
the crankcase thru the dipstick tube looking for leaks with water along the head to manifold seal.
Then I noticed two black ARP washers on one carburetor stud and another washer on the adjacent
stud, they were under all the gaskets and was the leak I have been looking for. Yeah !!!

Put the carb back on and fired the engine, but I could here something, possibly the TC. So I shut the
engine off immediately, it only ran for 2-3 seconds. Now the TC will not go forward and touch the flex
plate. It lacks about 1/8 inch of getting there. Even with a big ass screwdriver pushing on it, it will
not move. Feels really solid.

What could be causing this problem ???
 
I wonder if the 1/4" separation was enough to fully disengage the TC from the flexplate?
The hub in the center might have been still touching.
Obviously what you want to achieve is the flexplate spinning with the running engine
and the TC stationary. Do you think the TC rotated Rick?

On the plus side, I'm glad that it was just a stupid washer creating your vacuum leak. Whew!
 
sounds like the torque converter is not properly seated in the trans

http://news.compperformance.com/Instructions/trann_converter.pdf


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-a-torque-converter.2400/#post-6338

convertersd.jpg

When bolting converter to flexplate, push converter back into
transmission and measure gap between flexplate and
converter. The converter will need a minimum clearance of
1/8", and maximum clearance of 3/16". The converter will
need to pull out of the transmission to the flexplate. If you
have less than 1/8" clearance, you will damage the
transmission. Before bolting converter to flexplate, confirm
converter pilot is engaged into crankshaft pilot. Always use
grade # 8 fasteners to attach converter to flexplate.



the two most common problems I see are guys not fully seating a torque converter into the transmission, before installing the transmission, with the torque converter as a unit ,seated fully into the transmission
and failure to use of temporary studs where the bolts mount as a alignment guide, so they can bolt the torque converter to the flex plate only after the transmission is seated on the engine, rather than trying to align the transmission and get the splines and lugs correctly indexed as the transmission slides up to the engine, which rarely works easily if at all,and guys that fail to pre-fill the torque converter with at least the required fluid levels, (a shop manual helps here guys), and don,t forget to use LOC-TITE on the FLEX-PLATE BOLTS THREADS, and look at the shop manual for the torque specs for tightening the bolts
 
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I unbolted the torque converter pushed it back, I had about 1/4 clearance. Then I was pressurizing
the crankcase thru the dipstick tube looking for leaks with water along the head to manifold seal.
Then I noticed two black ARP washers on one carburetor stud and another washer on the adjacent
stud, they were under all the gaskets and was the leak I have been looking for. Yeah !!!

Put the carb back on and fired the engine, but I could here something, possibly the TC. So I shut the
engine off immediately, it only ran for 2-3 seconds. Now the TC will not go forward and touch the flex
plate. It lacks about 1/8 inch of getting there. Even with a big ass screwdriver pushing on it, it will
not move. Feels really solid.
I unbolted the torque converter pushed it back, I had about 1/4 clearance. Then I was pressurizing
the crankcase thru the dipstick tube looking for leaks with water along the head to manifold seal.
Then I noticed two black ARP washers on one carburetor stud and another washer on the adjacent
stud, they were under all the gaskets and was the leak I have been looking for. Yeah !!!

Put the carb back on and fired the engine, but I could here something, possibly the TC. So I shut the
engine off immediately, it only ran for 2-3 seconds. Now the TC will not go forward and touch the flex
plate. It lacks about 1/8 inch of getting there. Even with a big ass screwdriver pushing on it, it will
not move. Feels really solid.

What could be causing this problem ???
I would pull the 200R4 Transmission Out Rick.
I think something happened to the Front Oil Pump.
Broken centering vane rings or the pump rotor broke.

Its been a long time since you built the 200R4.
2011-2012.
Did You Transgo Hardened Billet steel pump rings ?
Same as 700R4 & 4L60E.
I used them in the 87 Corvette 700R4 & the 1999 Tahoe 4L60E rebuild recent.

2-3 seconds run time is not long enough to cause the torque converter pilot to gall to the crankshaft Pilot receiver hub.
 
I unbolted the torque converter pushed it back, I had about 1/4 clearance. Then I was pressurizing
the crankcase thru the dipstick tube looking for leaks with water along the head to manifold seal.
Then I noticed two black ARP washers on one carburetor stud and another washer on the adjacent
stud, they were under all the gaskets and was the leak I have been looking for. Yeah !!!

Put the carb back on and fired the engine, but I could here something, possibly the TC. So I shut the
engine off immediately, it only ran for 2-3 seconds. Now the TC will not go forward and touch the flex
plate. It lacks about 1/8 inch of getting there. Even with a big ass screwdriver pushing on it, it will
not move. Feels really solid.

What could be causing this problem ???
I would pull the 200R4 Transmission Out Rick.
I think something happened to the Front Oil Pump.
Broken centering vane rings or the pump rotor broke.

Its been a long time since you built the 200R4.
2011-2012.
Did You USE Transgo Hardened Billet steel pump rings ?
Same as 700R4 & 4L60E.
I used them in the 87 Corvette 700R4 & the 1999 Tahoe 4L60E rebuild recent.

2-3 seconds run time is not long enough to cause the torque converter pilot to gall to the crankshaft Pilot receiver hub.
 
Neither link works.

thats one reason I built this web site...
(people that post useful reference info and let the links expire are a P.I.T.A.)
Id post info on other websites and links would get deleted,
I can,t control links from other sources but I try hard to keep this websites links up and useful.
 
I used hardened rings, but how would the pump keep the TC from coming out?
Since the torque converter is stuck in the Front Pump it tells me something is SEVERE WRONG INTERNAL IN THE 200R4 Trans.
The Front pump Rotor Broke.
Its made from Pressed Powder metal.
700R4 & 4L60E is too.
Tough but when it fails the Pressed powder metal explodes with a Vengence.

I used a Billet 10 vane pump rotor in the Corvette 700R4..blueprinted the pump down to .0001 " tolerance spec.

Turbo 400 has factory 8620 Billet Heat Treat Steel pump gears.
Gear Rotor style.
Bullet Proof.
Think 4L80E made same way.
Never had a 4L80E apart yet.
 
I read last night that 200R4 & 700R4 & 4L60E all use the same torque converter.
Early 27-spline Turbine input.
Later 1984 Corvette 1st 30-spline.

Lots of simulatories.

700R4 & 4L60E Front oil pump blowing up sudden well documented in the Corvette Forum world.
Since 2001.
 
4L80E I am not sure will fit in the T Rick.
Big Trans.
Bullet Proof.

Favor Turbo 400 myself.
Lower cost.
Bullet proof even more so.
 
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