gear and damper pullers

GEAR PULLERS, for me, its a darn love/hate relationship, most of the time if your using the correct design and a quality tool everything goes smoothly and you don,t give it a second thought, but if you don,t know what your doing, if your using a cheap tool or the wrong tool, the potential to screw up expensive components is very high!

first bit of advice, Id strongly suggest you NEVER waste money on crappy imported Chinese gear pullers they are a total waste of money
EXAMPLE
http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampe ... ctions.htm

I bought this set mostly just to see if there was any chance they were serviceable (but at $23 I really knew better, and I was correct the first puller I used broke withing minutes of force being applied)
http://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw- ... 69105.html


after you replace a front timing cover seal and before you re-install the damper,
Id suggest installing the new seal, timing chain cover and spraying the contact area on the crank and damper,
where it contacts the crank snout and outer damper to timing chain cover seal surfaces with a decent spray lube, I've always used,
moly spray but there are lots of option's



CAST right into the arms is the word (FORGED STEEL) they are NOT, they are a cheap brittle casting that breaks the first time a significant loads applied, I broke all three the first time I used them on applications that my old SEARS gear pullers smoothly and effectively removed with little effort.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66514

or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/shc-947626


heres a reasonably CHEAP but serviceable sets
Id strongly suggest you buy three jaw style pullers the two arm tend to bend and fold some types of metal pulleys rather than remove them.

http://www.zoro.com/g/Mechanical%20Jaw% ... /00059706/

two arm pullers can ocasionally damage dampers and gears

Three arm pullers are a bit less likely too damage dampers and gears

be aware the tools center screw shaft must not be allowed to damage crank threads, leaving a counter sunk crank bolt in the crank snout threads,after removing the retention washer and damper helps prevent crank thread damage, when using a gear puller to remove the crank timing chain gear,

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/234-2502/10002/-1?parentProductId=744916

http://www.zoro.com/i/G5310295/?category=5268
http://www.zoro.com/i/G5307382/?category=5268

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... Cookie=Yes

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... 3315_13315

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...-Separators/Pullers-Separators?navid=12104215

decent cheap pullers

http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp ... alog=PROTO

http://www.mytoolstore.com/otc/1020.html

keep in mind you NEVER want to center the threaded screw center section , of the puller into the end of a cranks threaded hole or the gear puller shaft will destroy the threaded section, UNLESS youve used a hardened center support between them.

http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp ... ement+Part

BTW check out local PAWN SHOPS I see snap-on and MAC gear pullers occasionally and buy any that are reasonably priced

use the correct tool, beating the damper onto the crank frequently damages both the damper and the thrust bearing in the engine

http://www.tavia.com/cat12.html#1




"You put the damper on the crankshaft after oiling the crank snout and inner damper as far as you can get it with a few soft taps of large plastic mallet.

You thread grump's tool into the crankshaft as far as possible.OIL THE THREADS...with the roller bearing against the damper, the washer next, between the nut and roller bearing, then the nut,outer most, you turn the nut forcing the damper on, but be aware the damper generally slides on and the tool makes it fairly easy, so carefully watch as over tightening the tool once the damper bottoms against the cranks shoulder will brake the tool..........the picture depicts the tool set up for a sbc, you'll need to use the larger end and reverse it for the bbc

You then turn the real big nut, and the balancer walks on to the crankshaft

RELATED INFO
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90

they also make combo puller/installers Proform 66514 - Proform


http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_43866_-1

there's a TOOL designed expressly for removing the damper and its NOT a conventional swing jaw type gear puller LIKE THESE



they tend to bind and distort the damper, frequently damaging it

youll need something like this (you can get a cheap version at most auto parts stores for under $40 but the one from summit better quality




http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO-66514&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATI-918999&autoview=sku


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5LIW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1




link to order replacement parts you may loose or break on that damper tool
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4531/replacementparts


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5LIW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.otctools.com/products/harmonic-balancer-pullerinstaller-set


damn the gal in that video, makes that process, look a whole lot more difficult in the video that it generally is,
and yes its very easily possible to over tighten the interchangeable central adapter screw,parts
if your not careful, and yes they do sell replacement adapter screws
(never lend tools to your friends, or you'll be buying , and replacing those replacement threaded, adapter components)
use moly grease on tool threads

BTW


the crank gears requires a 3 or 4 jaw gear puller ,because the two jaw style tends to try and fold/bind the gear into the crank snout, a lighted propane torch applied briefly to heat the crank gear tends to expand & loosen its hold on the crank


http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_h ... llers.html


http://www.tooltopia.com/sunex-tools-39 ... lebase_18u



http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-3624.aspx


be aware that some damper designs do tend to fail over time!
beating a balancer onto a crank, pulling it with the wrong type of tool, or letting it get fuel or oil soaked can damage a damper, this can easily result in the outer damper ring with the TDC mark rotating to a random location


if your front crank seal leaks, over time it can dissolve the elastic, between the inner and outer damper hub weight, beating on a damper tends to hurt the flex ring seal alsos

I got a call from a Friend ,asking if I had the correct gear puller to remove a lower timing gear from a crank snout recently and after discussing the really sad state of the tools , currently available we both found out that its both hard to find quality gear pullers and that many of the current sets are crap cast imports that sell in many of the auto parts stores that are, not forged but cheap flimsy castings that fail.
I still have several I purchased from sears in the late 1960s-1970s that work fine but they are well worn.
I look for gear pullers at swap meets and pawn shops, and occasionally find bargains but it seems like theres far fewer serious mechanics or car guys around lately, just try and find a decent distributor wrench or gear puller


BTW this is a distributor wrench for those new guys that never saw one


viewtopic.php?f=27&t=4069&p=10828&hilit=dwell+meter#p10828

i used this kind of puller on my old engine dissassembly

I also used it for the crank gear(2 bolt and 2 nuts) it worked but its not the right tool for the crank gear job.

I recently had to pull a splined front axle hub on a front wheel drive car to inspect a wheel bearing, and that would be an impossible job without a decent quality three arm wheel puller with decent reach.
now I have a meager collection of a half dozen assorted gear pullers, in my tool chest but I wish I could find more at a decent price, i keep looking at yard sales, at pawn shops and on line, but I can tell you from experience all the crap Ive used or seen used thats been imported from china is a waste of money
(HF) like theses several friends bought
http://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw- ... 69104.html
there have been several structural failures with these

theres several decent quality sources for gear pullers

https://www.protoindustrial.com/en/support/Documents/108/Proto 108 - Pullers (p.823-856).pdf

http://www.posilock.com/

https://www.mile-x.com/three-jaw-pullers/

http://www.posilock.com/products/manual-pullers/manual-pullers

https://www.fastenal.com/products/power-transmission-motors/pullers-accessories/pullers;jsessionid=F20A15883123BEEFE9B901CAE249003E.jvm1?r=~|categoryl1:"603582 Power Transmission 9and Motors"|~ ~|categoryl2:"609268 Pullers 9and Accessories"|~ ~|categoryl3:"609265 Pullers"|~

http://www.skf.com/group/products/m...ng-and-dismounting/bearing-pullers/index.html
these seem to be better quality
http://www.zoro.com/i/G0668665/?category=5268



BTW have any of you guys found a good place to get quality gear pullers
or also found a lot of the cheap import stuff laughably,
AND pathetically flawed, most are cheap junk!

just a side note,
I spent an hour or so over at a acquaintances home helping him remove an engines damper with a couple gear pullers,
I brought my gear/damper puller set that looked like this

that tool and the damper removal and install with it was flawless, the normally stupidly simple part of the job, where you pull the crank gear off the crank snout is usually a no-brainer, but this guy grabbed a HF
gear puller


one that looks similar to these , he failed to notice (HOW IN HELL CAN ANYONE DO THAT!)
that the tip of the gear puller that generally has a swivel center support that spreads the load and prevents the crank bolt threads from being damaged,
was missing as these CRAP QUALITY HF gear pullers frequently have the swivel support tips fall off,
as a result pulling the crank gear which is generally not even a minor issue resulted in him screwing up the first few crank snout threads
(these were probably already damaged from previous use of that gear puller , as the damage was rather extensive)
as a result we needed to pull a good deal of the radiator support to gain the required clearance to drill and re-tap the crank snout to a slightly larger thread size,
requiring a separate avoidable trip to a local auto parts and a local machine shop to get the correct tool and bolt.
https://www.amazon.com/Puller-Mecha...aring+puller&qid=1557672727&s=gateway&sr=8-81
I jokingly suggested he either buy a better quality gear puller,(MANDATORY)
or give up working on cars as his powers of observation seem to be lacking.



gear pullers like these two above, are well known to cause problems with damage crank threads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/harmonic-balancer.3554/#post-53706

"Grumpy, Question, all my gear pullers did not come with that load spreader tip, and yeah, I've screwed up some crank threads in the past ,
using it, how do you protect the crank threads if you have the far more common type of gear puller with the narrow and sharp point screw center thread?
LIKE THE UPPER TWO GEAR PULLERS YOU POSTED"

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/gear-and-damper-pullers.902/

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/pit-stop-repair-stripped-crank-balancer-bolt-hole-threads/

I used too have that issue, good question,
when I was about 16-17 years old,
and I asked one of the guys that were my mentors....
after looking at me like I was brain dead, smiling and saying....
theres no really dumb questions, but theres certainly plenty of people to head strong too think things through...
the answers very simple he simply smiled, and said,...
you simply walk over to the spare bolt bucket or go to the local hard ware store and purchase a couple 1/2", and 7/16"
national fine thread 1.5" long cap screws ,
of the thread matching your engines crank,retention bolts threads (get several you'll loose them occasionally)
I paint the chevy crank thread ones orange
and the Pontiac ones light blue
and the Chrysler ones gold,
too make them easy to locate and keep them in a old snuff box, or similar wide mouth screw top shallow container,

in the drawer with the gear pullers,
you insert and screw them finger tight into the end of the crank,
after adding two washers to protect the end of the crank snout from the cap screw heads under-side
if you don't know what a cap screw is... they come in all the common threads you'll want one thats about

btw the black phosphate
steel,cap screw bolts, or any gear puller inserted , that have at least 2.5, times,
the thread diameter, length threads,engaged, and
fully threaded into the crank before pressure loads are applied,
will support as much pressure as a solid steel base,
thus theres almost zero chance of stripping threads,
IF they are in good condition, before you start.
obviously partially stripped threads are significantly weaker