was asked by a young friend, whos looking to go on his first ELK hunt....
"if your starting over, and wanted a new ELK and DEER RIFLE, what would you buy and why?"
no one here could realistically select , or even make an educated guess at the best rifle for your future hunts, without knowing both the area you intend to hunt and the game you intend to hunt. but I will point out a few facts based on almost 5 decades of hunting mostly deer and elk.
I've used about all the popular calibers from 270 win with a 150 grain bullet, up through 458 win (with 405 grain hand loads) at one time or another, they all work,
but something like a 35 whelen or a 338 win , 340 wby,
combines both reasonably flat trajectory,
and the projectile mass to do a damn effective job.
after watching dozens of elk and deer killed over almost 47 years of making hunting trips,
I have come to the conclusion, that most people should worry a lot less about the rifle caliber or whats stamped on the case,
and spend a lot more time practicing with what ever they carry now,
my late hunting partner carried a browning BLR caliber 358 win loaded with 250 grain speer bullets for decades and was quite successful.
Most people should spend much more time and effort finding some local tall building stair cases or bleacher steps to run up while wearing a 50 lb back-pack on a regular basis/ than they might spend discussing various cartridge effectiveness/ characteristics.
good optics are critical Id suggest something variable in the 2x7 or 3x9 range in a decent brand name with the 30mm tube and a 40mm- 50mm front lens for great low light transmission in leopold or nikon
the truth most guys won't recognize is that many guys are not in good enough physical condition too take the effort , required,
to find a decent trophy and too look over that next ridge,
nor have they practiced enough to consistently,
and rapidly hit a coke can off hand at 50 yards,
let alone a walking deer at 100-300 yards .\,
and Id bet better than 90% of game is killed at under 300 yards.
keep in mind, being in good physical condition, knowing the games habits and anatomy and dogged, persistence, and learning how too shoot rapidly and accurately from field positions will have far far more effect on your success than any change you make in the rifle you carry.I think a great deal of these discussions are primarily based on the
"oh yeah! theres no doubt my rifles better than yours... mentality"
the problem is rarely the rifle or cartridge used,
its finding the game, and getting a decent shot.
Ive seen enough elk and mule deer killed with everything from a 44-mag hand gun to a 458 winchester
to realize its the hunters ability to precisely place a shot in the vitals,
his knowledge of the games anatomy and experience too select and use a projectile,
with enough mass and structural integrity to penetrate adequately, that are the keys
almost all the center fire rifles will get the job done, at reasonable ranges and conditions.
most people can't see the advantages of using a magnum,
simply because they hunt deer or similar game, at ranges under 300 yards,
which are rather easily killed, and few hunters can consistently hit accurately ,much further.
personally I've yet to feel my 340 wby or 375 H&H put me at any disadvantage.
I've also used a 257 roberts, and 358 win, and 450 marlin BLR ,
and 44 mag marlin carbine
I've used a 6mm rem, browning 78 single shot, and a ruger #1 in 257 wby....they all worked.
carry what your comfortable with and practice until you can hit a coke can at 100 yards off hand and you'll do fine!
anyone else look over the cartridges list and realize that damn near anything in a center fire cartridge,
used in the hands of a decent shot that knows the games anatomy will work,
its simply getting into reasonable range and finding the game,
not the limitations of the rifle being used thats critical to success.
I'm certainly not suggesting some choices don,t have advantageous properties,
in range and penetration or flat trajectory,
only that its the hunters skill and experience, not the rifle selected, that's more critical.
if guys are successful with a 44 mag, and other guys use a 375 H&H, or a 257 Roberts ,successfully
obviously power and penetration and flat trajectory are not as super critical,
as getting a shot at the vitals, within reasonable ranges your comfortable with, with a rifle your familiar with using
you can have the best equipment available,
but if your not willing to cross enough territory,
and put in enough time glassing and walking,
to be in the right place at the right time,
and that generally will not be in sight of camp,
your hurting your odds of success.
use your brain and a good topo map,\
locate natural terrain that limits game travel options.
now Ive got a wide selection in rifles, currently so thats hardly a problem,
but If I was starting over AS A BRAND NEW ELK & DEER HUNTER,Id be very tempted to select a synthetic stocked BAR in 30/06 sprg ,300 win or 338 win mag caliber,
and IM 90% sure the 338 win would get the nod,
personally, because I HUNT ELK 90% of the time.!
but ID strongly suggest the 30/06 sprg for a new guy!
(why?.. the range power and recoil are all well within the average range most guys can handle , if you step up to something like a 338 win, 340 wby or 375 H&H you get more theoretical knock-down/ penetration/range, and power ,
and that effective range can occasionally be useful,
but the trade-off is increased ammo cost, and recoil and rifle weight in some cases.
but remember most game is killed well under 300 yards so a rifle like a 358 win BLR, 450 marlin, or 35 Whelan, which has a rather limited range compared to a 300 mag or 7mm mag, or even a 30/06, is not the handicap many people would have you believe, thinking back over the last 47 years of hunting I can remember damn few deer or elk that were seen or shot at over 200 yards let alone longer distances.
I don,t like many bolt guns handling characteristics,
I prefer a nice falling block single shot for both looks and handling, personally ,
but as strictly as a TOOL to kill ELK, the BAR has some advantages. the longer I hunt ELK the more Ive been convinced that a fast and accurately placed shot, the guns intrinsic speed in handling and confidence in your rifle far out weight the small advantage in accuracy the bolt guns provide, and while I have zero problem using a falling block single shot, a semi auto tends to give the newer guys a bit of confidence and the action soaks up a good percentage of the felt recoil.
When I started hunting I carried a 760 rem in 30/06, on the advice of several experienced mentors, it worked great, but I was under the impression, that I needed a magnum caliber as the first couple elk I shot failed to instantly fall over when hit,
I upgraded to and I have mostly carried a 340 wby mark V or a sako 375 H&H carbine,
these did not kill any better but you darn sure got a more noticeable reaction when you hit game! (they became my trusted companions for decades.)
I have had a remington 7600 in 35 whelen as a shared hunting camp back-up rifle available on many of the trips to hunt elk, and its saved the hunt for several guys over the years when for various reasons their rifle stopped functioning.
the more experience I got the less I worried about the rifle being used, simply because Ive seen everything from a 257 robert's BLR to a 458 win ruger single shot, used successfully, to kill elk.
I personally trust, and prefer to carry the .338-.375 caliber rifles , but Ive seen that anything from .257 to .458 works if the guy carrying its knows how to use what he has in his hands.
I've just seen too many elk and big mule deer killed very dead with a 257 roberts, 6.5mm swedish mauser , or 308 win, to think you need a magnum, or guys using a
444 marlin, 45/70 or 458 win to think you need the flattest trajectory available
Ive used about all the common rifle calibers from 257 roberts, 257 wby, up to 458 lott , and pistols from 357mag to 500 S&W, on local deer here in florida at one time or another,
and buffybr has a point, almost any caliber with a heavy for its bore diameter projectile properly placed is lethal in the hands of a skilled hunter
animals are far from armor plated even a 357 mag or 10mm will drop an elk with a well placed shot.
I have total confidence in the rifles I've selected once I know they are correctly sighted in, and while I tend to prefer the 35-45 calibers ,
you can't ignore physics and a heavy bullet of high sectional density tends to get much better penetration and carries energy well.
personally I prefer the 340 wby, and 375 H&H for big game, my late hunting partner used nothing but a 358 win BLR and referred to my rifles as cannons.
one of the guys I hunted with for years used a 257 roberts....we were all successful...
theres too many guys with a long list of successful kills using other cartridges to think that theres a magic upper or lower limit ,that must be adhered too on the weapons power to get it too work.
howard hill killed elephants with archery equipment, there have been record size grizzly's killed with a 22lr, eskimos have killed dozens of polar bear and huge walrus with a 243 win.
find what your comfortable using, use a quality bullet heavy for bore diameter, and learn how to shoot well from field positions and you'll have very few problems.
you need to be 100% confident in your choice, and know exactly your limitations, yes you do give up some potential range and penetration with some smaller calibers...
if you use those, just understand you need to get a bit closer and be a bit more precise, with shot placement,
power does NOT make up for bad shot placement, but it does allow you some extra latitude in making racking angle shots, at longer ranges, that you should not attempt with lesser calibers at longer ranges.
but I'd also point out that in almost 50 years of hunting , I'd bet 90% of the game Ive shot or seen shot was killed at well under 300 yards.
http://www.browning.com/products/catalo ... ype_id=008
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/why-do-so-few-use-semi-auto-elk-rifles.6104/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/the-458-caliber-rifles.4672/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...for-a-decent-hunting-rifle-for-deer-elk.1133/
Id remind anyone looking to purchase an accurate dependable hunting rifle that youll want high quality optics and rock solid scope mounts, the best rifle available will be seriously hampered if its not matched to clear and solidly consistent optics!
one of the most common failures I've seen over the decades was not related to the basic rifle function (although that did on occasion happen) but much more commonly loose scope mounts or cheap optics that failed to retain zero or fogged.
for most hunting you don,t need some huge high magnification scope , what you need is decent quality and rock solid dependability.
the newer LEOPOLD and NIKON 30mm tube size scopes are mostly an excellent value for the price.
yes theres hundreds of options, but if your looking for a good value Id suggest you want to select one with top quality optics for the price, a 30mm tube and 50mm front lens in a well known respected brand is a good start point for good low light transmission and clear target,vision. something similar to these linked below would provide an excellent match to a deer or elk rifle to be used for precise shot placement with most reasonable caliber elk/deer rifles, set on the lowest setting they allow you to make very rapid and accurate shots, if you have the time to get a solid field position, jack the magnification up as required.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1362146064/leupold-vx-r-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-3-9x-50mm-matte
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...aff-7-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-25-10x-50mm-matte
https://www.opticsplanet.com/v/12325-browning-blr-scout-style-mount.html
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/519551/weaver-6-hole-weaver-style-rings-matte?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Optics - Scope Rings, Bases, Mounting & Accessories&utm_content=519551&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Optics - Scope Rings, Bases, Mounting & Accessories-_-Weaver-_-519551&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq6X4zMqA2QIV2brACh0otQ2aEAQYAiABEgIgfPD_BwE
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/917995/weaver-surethread-adhesive-10-ml
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/4...25-10x-50mm-illuminated-mil-dot-reticle-matte
most modern quality scopes are far better than they used to be, but there are some advantages to buying the larger objective lens and 30mm tube designs.
if you've ever taken a scope like one these out at dusk too actually compare how clear the details are you can see, you might be amazed at the difference between the scopes similar to these compared to the older 1" tube and smaller lens size scopes, the newer scopes are a quantum leap in quality over the scopes available even 10-15 years ago.
If you get the chance take out several rifles with different optics , out at dusk and look at fine details on something like a fence at even 150 yards, the difference in the finer detail you can see in less than ideal lighting will astound you!
(this may not seem that important as most scopes look crystal clear in some well lighted store, but if your still hunting the thick timber at dawn or dusk it makes a world of difference if your trying to figure out if your looking at antlers or branches in the lodge pole timber
we all find favorites,
and ever choice is a compromise in rifle weight, flat trajectory, acceptable recoil, useful, bullet mass and potential impact energy and penetration.
from what Ive seen Id suggest the 270 win with a premium 150 gain bullet, or a 30/06 with a 180 grain makes a dependable choice, if recoils an issue.
everyone will compromise in some area and find what they are comfortable using.
if your looking for a reasonable compromise in rifle weight and recoil yet still having a rifle that works rather well on both deer and elk.
personally I am very willing to carry a bit more rifle weight, and accept a significantly increased level of recoil and I prefer the 340 wby & 375 H&H,
yes Im very well aware I'm in the minority, but no one I hunt with disputes the results,
I have total confidence in the rifles based on decades of almost exclusively, one shot kills their objections to owning one are always, centered on ammo and rifle cost,
on the rifle weight and recoil,
no one disputes the lethality, trajectory or penetration.
my rebuttal, is that if 2 extra lbs of rifle weight, or a bit of extra recoil in a rifle you might shoot only a once or couple times on a hunt,
keeps you from comfortably exploring the next canyon, with some old geezer like me, you probably need to eat better and exercise more often.
and the cost of the rifle amortized over the 45 plus years is negligible, hand-loading puts the ammo price in a reasonable range.
Im now 70 years old slower than I was, but more persistent and far more skilled and knowledgeable, it may take me longer, to get in and out of the canyons but I know what I'm doing and where to look, and I can still shoot accurately.
in my experience youll get about 90% of your shots looking like these, at under 200 yards rather than game standing out in a well lighted field
much of the area looks similar too these pictures I found posted elseware
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1362146064/leupold-vx-r-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-3-9x-50mm-matte
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...aff-7-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-25-10x-50mm-matte
WHY? well as a NEW HUNTER Id want a fast handling accurate rifle that would provide a solid hit potential and the ability to provide a fast back-up shot. in spite of the thousands of magazine articles youll read to the contrary, most deer and ELK are shot at UNDER 300 yards and under 150 yards is the average distance.
I will be the first guy to tell you IVE not needed a second shot in many years but having that option instantly on tap is a good thing in my opinion, ESPECIALLY for a newer ELK hunter.
Ive hunted with MY 338 BAR,and MY 30/06 sprg and while they are not my favorite rifles they have been extremely effective.
now I hear the screaming already!
Im not promoting the SPRAY AND PRAY mentality, but I usually start the new guys off with a slide action, a lever action or a semi-auto and Ive found the semi-auto is by far the best because theres nothing to distract the new guys, theres nothing but release the safety, aim and fire....need a second shot, you don,t do a darn thing, but regain the sight picture and squeeze off the next shot, and that's a big advantage when your hearts beating so fast you can hear it, and your minds running wild, as your shooting your first few ELK.!
make that first shot count and you will not be concerned with magazine capacity or making a rapid second shot.
Ive used a 340 wby and 375 H&H on most ELK
HUNTS
no thats not my rifle but its damn near its clone
how many of you gentlemen have and use a bi-pod on your rifle?
Ive used the 13.5" /27" swivel bi-pod for decades on my 340 wby synthetic bolt action, rifle.
the bi-pod allows you to have a steady rifle rest shot from both a prone or seated position,
now I'm sure I'm in the minority and many guys will object to the added weight , but I've learned to hunt by glassing and covering a great deal of ground slowly,
the key here is in carefully selecting the areas hunted and not randomly wandering aimlessly.
you want to study topographical maps carefully, and have experience, you can look over the options, get into productive areas well before other hunters and set up, before first light, allowing you to benefit from the influx p o hunter pressure as they move through the are disrupting game movement, and increase your odds of success by hunting ,
natural travel routes and terrain choke points, and not wasting time glassing the areas with lots off easy road access.
elk and deer learn very quickly that travel, during daylight, near logging roads with vehicle travel access , is not safe.
if you set up to glass for game on a natural game travel choke point , like a narrow side canyon, that has a creek and cover youll up your odds significantly.
having a bi-pod on your rifle and a good familiarity with your rifles trajectory sure helps.
HB25CS 25C Model S -13.5-27" Swivel Bipod
by Harris Engineering
a weatherby 340 mag, It originally had a wood stock, I swapped to synthetic as soon as they were available,I purchased the synthetic stainless version as soon as they came out also
both rifles make the trip most years.
250 grain bullet at 2850 fps , consistently accurate, and I can,t remember needing a second shot on anything in over 38 years
yeah its a bit heavy, at about 10 lbs with scope, but if an extra couple lbs keeps you from visiting the next canyon your in crappy physical shape,
I'm 70 and while I'm slower Im just as persistent and a good deal more skilled and knowledgeable than I was when I was 23 and bought the rifle
and its been on far more successful hunts than many guys will ever make,
if the targets inside of 500 yards its in serious trouble. Ive yet to see a deer or elk shake off a single hit!
my late hunting partner considered anyone not equipped, with a browning BLR in caliber 358 win ,
while hunting elk too be hampered and working under a sever dis-advantage
I loaded for him for almost 30 years , fed 215 primer, 250 grain speer and 44 grains of IMR 4064
that carbine accounted for at least 14 elk over 35 years.
.
he constantly referred to my 340 wby as a "damn CANNON"
we were both successful.
many of you guys may think I'm on drugs for saying this ,
but I have used similar loads hunting deer as I use for elk,
but I\ve used mostly heavy for caliber bullets,for 5 decades,
I don,t shoot unless I have a precise target,on the deers vitals
and to the utter astonishment of many people,
deer generally drop within a few yards... dead as a stump
117/120 grain/257 roberts (BROWNING BLR)
https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/grand-slam-rifle-bullet/1415
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/25-cal-257-117-gr-interlock-btsp#!/
180/200 grain /30/06 (BROWNING BLR)
https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullet/2211
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/30-cal-308-180-gr-interlock-sp#!/
250 grain/ 358 win(BROWNING BLR)
https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullet/2453
350 grain/450 marlin (BROWNING BLR)
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/45-cal-458-350-gr-interlock-rn#!/
hit the deer with a 358 win, 250 grain or 350 grain from a 450 marlin caliber rifle
and place it in that (X) you've described and you'll seldom find you have any issues,
with potential tracking, or deer running more than a few steps,
the more I hunt with the 358 win and 450 marlin chambered BLR carbines the more impressed Ive become
I sight all my rifles in to impact 3.5" higher than the cross hair in the scope indicates at 100 yards
this allows a very easy no calculations required hold,
for consistent shot placement, in the first 150- 200 yards where an easy 75-80%,
of all the deer and elk Ive shot for decades are shot at
Many of the guys that are not lever action fans, buy bolt or pump actions in caliber 35 whelen, the 35 whelen adds about 200 fps to the same bullets the 358 win shoots,
( I doubt any elk or deer knows the difference)several of the guys I hunt elk with think the 7600 35 whelen, is a top choice,
I've used one and I don,t see a damn thing thats in need of improvement if you hunt the ticker timber areas.
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=35 Whelen&Weight=All&type=Rifle&Source=
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=358%20Winchester&Weight=All&type=rifle&Order=Powder&Source=
I would have saved a wheelbarrow full of cash if Id stopped buying new rifles trying to find something better.... never did!
now you better know your games anatomy, because only shots to the vitals will provide quick results, a shot driven thru the arteries over the heart is a sure killer, but remember the bullet must reliably expand and penetrate, the heavier bullets for the caliber tend to work better in my experience, Id suggest use of nothing under 140 grains in a 270 caliber, 165 grains in a 30 cal or under 200 grains in a 338 cal should be considered in my opinion,
YES you can kill elk with lighter bullets but your more consistent with the better penetration the heavier weight provide because you can,t always pick the range or angles
don,t get hung up on velocity just get the most accurate load
yeah, been there many times, back in the 1970s I saw a buddy impressively drop two deer in very rapid succession at about 200 yards with a marlin 444,
he used 240 grain soft point bullets
I went out and bought one, it worked ok, it worked better after I found 265 grain hornady bullets,
but after awhile in the later 1980s I upgraded to a marlin 45/70 , and got into casting 350 grain, bullets and eventually upgraded to a 450 marlin BLR, when they came out with those in about 2000, using 405 grain bullets,
accuracy and stopping power were marginally better after each upgrade, as group sizes shrunk and bullet weight increases and AS I GAINED MORE EXPERIENCE AND SKILL,
the results I got improved.(group sizes became more consistent and slightly smaller, with each change)
now I'm not about to suggest there was anything wrong with any of those calibers, or rifles and,
I doubt any deer or elk would not have dropped if hit well with any of those rifles.
certainly all those rifles would shoot under 2" bench rest groups and the BLR is consistently under 1" three shot groups off the bench rest,
but I don,t know anyone who can keep a consistent 2" or less 100 yard three shot group shooting from a field position,
so I doubt any deer or elk would notice.
but I certainly felt each upgrade was worth the money
https://www.fieldandstream.com/12-best-rifle-cartridges-for-elk-hunting/
"if your starting over, and wanted a new ELK and DEER RIFLE, what would you buy and why?"
no one here could realistically select , or even make an educated guess at the best rifle for your future hunts, without knowing both the area you intend to hunt and the game you intend to hunt. but I will point out a few facts based on almost 5 decades of hunting mostly deer and elk.
I've used about all the popular calibers from 270 win with a 150 grain bullet, up through 458 win (with 405 grain hand loads) at one time or another, they all work,
but something like a 35 whelen or a 338 win , 340 wby,
combines both reasonably flat trajectory,
and the projectile mass to do a damn effective job.
after watching dozens of elk and deer killed over almost 47 years of making hunting trips,
I have come to the conclusion, that most people should worry a lot less about the rifle caliber or whats stamped on the case,
and spend a lot more time practicing with what ever they carry now,
my late hunting partner carried a browning BLR caliber 358 win loaded with 250 grain speer bullets for decades and was quite successful.
Most people should spend much more time and effort finding some local tall building stair cases or bleacher steps to run up while wearing a 50 lb back-pack on a regular basis/ than they might spend discussing various cartridge effectiveness/ characteristics.
good optics are critical Id suggest something variable in the 2x7 or 3x9 range in a decent brand name with the 30mm tube and a 40mm- 50mm front lens for great low light transmission in leopold or nikon
the truth most guys won't recognize is that many guys are not in good enough physical condition too take the effort , required,
to find a decent trophy and too look over that next ridge,
nor have they practiced enough to consistently,
and rapidly hit a coke can off hand at 50 yards,
let alone a walking deer at 100-300 yards .\,
and Id bet better than 90% of game is killed at under 300 yards.
keep in mind, being in good physical condition, knowing the games habits and anatomy and dogged, persistence, and learning how too shoot rapidly and accurately from field positions will have far far more effect on your success than any change you make in the rifle you carry.I think a great deal of these discussions are primarily based on the
"oh yeah! theres no doubt my rifles better than yours... mentality"
the problem is rarely the rifle or cartridge used,
its finding the game, and getting a decent shot.
Ive seen enough elk and mule deer killed with everything from a 44-mag hand gun to a 458 winchester
to realize its the hunters ability to precisely place a shot in the vitals,
his knowledge of the games anatomy and experience too select and use a projectile,
with enough mass and structural integrity to penetrate adequately, that are the keys
almost all the center fire rifles will get the job done, at reasonable ranges and conditions.
most people can't see the advantages of using a magnum,
simply because they hunt deer or similar game, at ranges under 300 yards,
which are rather easily killed, and few hunters can consistently hit accurately ,much further.
personally I've yet to feel my 340 wby or 375 H&H put me at any disadvantage.
I've also used a 257 roberts, and 358 win, and 450 marlin BLR ,
and 44 mag marlin carbine
I've used a 6mm rem, browning 78 single shot, and a ruger #1 in 257 wby....they all worked.
carry what your comfortable with and practice until you can hit a coke can at 100 yards off hand and you'll do fine!
anyone else look over the cartridges list and realize that damn near anything in a center fire cartridge,
used in the hands of a decent shot that knows the games anatomy will work,
its simply getting into reasonable range and finding the game,
not the limitations of the rifle being used thats critical to success.
I'm certainly not suggesting some choices don,t have advantageous properties,
in range and penetration or flat trajectory,
only that its the hunters skill and experience, not the rifle selected, that's more critical.
if guys are successful with a 44 mag, and other guys use a 375 H&H, or a 257 Roberts ,successfully
obviously power and penetration and flat trajectory are not as super critical,
as getting a shot at the vitals, within reasonable ranges your comfortable with, with a rifle your familiar with using
you can have the best equipment available,
but if your not willing to cross enough territory,
and put in enough time glassing and walking,
to be in the right place at the right time,
and that generally will not be in sight of camp,
your hurting your odds of success.
use your brain and a good topo map,\
locate natural terrain that limits game travel options.
now Ive got a wide selection in rifles, currently so thats hardly a problem,
but If I was starting over AS A BRAND NEW ELK & DEER HUNTER,Id be very tempted to select a synthetic stocked BAR in 30/06 sprg ,300 win or 338 win mag caliber,
and IM 90% sure the 338 win would get the nod,
personally, because I HUNT ELK 90% of the time.!
but ID strongly suggest the 30/06 sprg for a new guy!
(why?.. the range power and recoil are all well within the average range most guys can handle , if you step up to something like a 338 win, 340 wby or 375 H&H you get more theoretical knock-down/ penetration/range, and power ,
and that effective range can occasionally be useful,
but the trade-off is increased ammo cost, and recoil and rifle weight in some cases.
but remember most game is killed well under 300 yards so a rifle like a 358 win BLR, 450 marlin, or 35 Whelan, which has a rather limited range compared to a 300 mag or 7mm mag, or even a 30/06, is not the handicap many people would have you believe, thinking back over the last 47 years of hunting I can remember damn few deer or elk that were seen or shot at over 200 yards let alone longer distances.
I don,t like many bolt guns handling characteristics,
I prefer a nice falling block single shot for both looks and handling, personally ,
but as strictly as a TOOL to kill ELK, the BAR has some advantages. the longer I hunt ELK the more Ive been convinced that a fast and accurately placed shot, the guns intrinsic speed in handling and confidence in your rifle far out weight the small advantage in accuracy the bolt guns provide, and while I have zero problem using a falling block single shot, a semi auto tends to give the newer guys a bit of confidence and the action soaks up a good percentage of the felt recoil.
When I started hunting I carried a 760 rem in 30/06, on the advice of several experienced mentors, it worked great, but I was under the impression, that I needed a magnum caliber as the first couple elk I shot failed to instantly fall over when hit,
I upgraded to and I have mostly carried a 340 wby mark V or a sako 375 H&H carbine,
these did not kill any better but you darn sure got a more noticeable reaction when you hit game! (they became my trusted companions for decades.)
I have had a remington 7600 in 35 whelen as a shared hunting camp back-up rifle available on many of the trips to hunt elk, and its saved the hunt for several guys over the years when for various reasons their rifle stopped functioning.
the more experience I got the less I worried about the rifle being used, simply because Ive seen everything from a 257 robert's BLR to a 458 win ruger single shot, used successfully, to kill elk.
I personally trust, and prefer to carry the .338-.375 caliber rifles , but Ive seen that anything from .257 to .458 works if the guy carrying its knows how to use what he has in his hands.
I've just seen too many elk and big mule deer killed very dead with a 257 roberts, 6.5mm swedish mauser , or 308 win, to think you need a magnum, or guys using a
444 marlin, 45/70 or 458 win to think you need the flattest trajectory available
Ive used about all the common rifle calibers from 257 roberts, 257 wby, up to 458 lott , and pistols from 357mag to 500 S&W, on local deer here in florida at one time or another,
and buffybr has a point, almost any caliber with a heavy for its bore diameter projectile properly placed is lethal in the hands of a skilled hunter
animals are far from armor plated even a 357 mag or 10mm will drop an elk with a well placed shot.
I have total confidence in the rifles I've selected once I know they are correctly sighted in, and while I tend to prefer the 35-45 calibers ,
you can't ignore physics and a heavy bullet of high sectional density tends to get much better penetration and carries energy well.
personally I prefer the 340 wby, and 375 H&H for big game, my late hunting partner used nothing but a 358 win BLR and referred to my rifles as cannons.
one of the guys I hunted with for years used a 257 roberts....we were all successful...
theres too many guys with a long list of successful kills using other cartridges to think that theres a magic upper or lower limit ,that must be adhered too on the weapons power to get it too work.
howard hill killed elephants with archery equipment, there have been record size grizzly's killed with a 22lr, eskimos have killed dozens of polar bear and huge walrus with a 243 win.
find what your comfortable using, use a quality bullet heavy for bore diameter, and learn how to shoot well from field positions and you'll have very few problems.
you need to be 100% confident in your choice, and know exactly your limitations, yes you do give up some potential range and penetration with some smaller calibers...
if you use those, just understand you need to get a bit closer and be a bit more precise, with shot placement,
power does NOT make up for bad shot placement, but it does allow you some extra latitude in making racking angle shots, at longer ranges, that you should not attempt with lesser calibers at longer ranges.
but I'd also point out that in almost 50 years of hunting , I'd bet 90% of the game Ive shot or seen shot was killed at well under 300 yards.
http://www.browning.com/products/catalo ... ype_id=008
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/why-do-so-few-use-semi-auto-elk-rifles.6104/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/the-458-caliber-rifles.4672/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...for-a-decent-hunting-rifle-for-deer-elk.1133/
Id remind anyone looking to purchase an accurate dependable hunting rifle that youll want high quality optics and rock solid scope mounts, the best rifle available will be seriously hampered if its not matched to clear and solidly consistent optics!
one of the most common failures I've seen over the decades was not related to the basic rifle function (although that did on occasion happen) but much more commonly loose scope mounts or cheap optics that failed to retain zero or fogged.
for most hunting you don,t need some huge high magnification scope , what you need is decent quality and rock solid dependability.
the newer LEOPOLD and NIKON 30mm tube size scopes are mostly an excellent value for the price.
yes theres hundreds of options, but if your looking for a good value Id suggest you want to select one with top quality optics for the price, a 30mm tube and 50mm front lens in a well known respected brand is a good start point for good low light transmission and clear target,vision. something similar to these linked below would provide an excellent match to a deer or elk rifle to be used for precise shot placement with most reasonable caliber elk/deer rifles, set on the lowest setting they allow you to make very rapid and accurate shots, if you have the time to get a solid field position, jack the magnification up as required.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1362146064/leupold-vx-r-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-3-9x-50mm-matte
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...aff-7-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-25-10x-50mm-matte
https://www.opticsplanet.com/v/12325-browning-blr-scout-style-mount.html
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/519551/weaver-6-hole-weaver-style-rings-matte?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Optics - Scope Rings, Bases, Mounting & Accessories&utm_content=519551&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Optics - Scope Rings, Bases, Mounting & Accessories-_-Weaver-_-519551&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq6X4zMqA2QIV2brACh0otQ2aEAQYAiABEgIgfPD_BwE
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/917995/weaver-surethread-adhesive-10-ml
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/4...25-10x-50mm-illuminated-mil-dot-reticle-matte
most modern quality scopes are far better than they used to be, but there are some advantages to buying the larger objective lens and 30mm tube designs.
if you've ever taken a scope like one these out at dusk too actually compare how clear the details are you can see, you might be amazed at the difference between the scopes similar to these compared to the older 1" tube and smaller lens size scopes, the newer scopes are a quantum leap in quality over the scopes available even 10-15 years ago.
If you get the chance take out several rifles with different optics , out at dusk and look at fine details on something like a fence at even 150 yards, the difference in the finer detail you can see in less than ideal lighting will astound you!
(this may not seem that important as most scopes look crystal clear in some well lighted store, but if your still hunting the thick timber at dawn or dusk it makes a world of difference if your trying to figure out if your looking at antlers or branches in the lodge pole timber
we all find favorites,
and ever choice is a compromise in rifle weight, flat trajectory, acceptable recoil, useful, bullet mass and potential impact energy and penetration.
from what Ive seen Id suggest the 270 win with a premium 150 gain bullet, or a 30/06 with a 180 grain makes a dependable choice, if recoils an issue.
everyone will compromise in some area and find what they are comfortable using.
if your looking for a reasonable compromise in rifle weight and recoil yet still having a rifle that works rather well on both deer and elk.
personally I am very willing to carry a bit more rifle weight, and accept a significantly increased level of recoil and I prefer the 340 wby & 375 H&H,
yes Im very well aware I'm in the minority, but no one I hunt with disputes the results,
I have total confidence in the rifles based on decades of almost exclusively, one shot kills their objections to owning one are always, centered on ammo and rifle cost,
on the rifle weight and recoil,
no one disputes the lethality, trajectory or penetration.
my rebuttal, is that if 2 extra lbs of rifle weight, or a bit of extra recoil in a rifle you might shoot only a once or couple times on a hunt,
keeps you from comfortably exploring the next canyon, with some old geezer like me, you probably need to eat better and exercise more often.
and the cost of the rifle amortized over the 45 plus years is negligible, hand-loading puts the ammo price in a reasonable range.
Im now 70 years old slower than I was, but more persistent and far more skilled and knowledgeable, it may take me longer, to get in and out of the canyons but I know what I'm doing and where to look, and I can still shoot accurately.
in my experience youll get about 90% of your shots looking like these, at under 200 yards rather than game standing out in a well lighted field
much of the area looks similar too these pictures I found posted elseware
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1362146064/leupold-vx-r-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-3-9x-50mm-matte
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...aff-7-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-25-10x-50mm-matte
WHY? well as a NEW HUNTER Id want a fast handling accurate rifle that would provide a solid hit potential and the ability to provide a fast back-up shot. in spite of the thousands of magazine articles youll read to the contrary, most deer and ELK are shot at UNDER 300 yards and under 150 yards is the average distance.
I will be the first guy to tell you IVE not needed a second shot in many years but having that option instantly on tap is a good thing in my opinion, ESPECIALLY for a newer ELK hunter.
Ive hunted with MY 338 BAR,and MY 30/06 sprg and while they are not my favorite rifles they have been extremely effective.
now I hear the screaming already!
Im not promoting the SPRAY AND PRAY mentality, but I usually start the new guys off with a slide action, a lever action or a semi-auto and Ive found the semi-auto is by far the best because theres nothing to distract the new guys, theres nothing but release the safety, aim and fire....need a second shot, you don,t do a darn thing, but regain the sight picture and squeeze off the next shot, and that's a big advantage when your hearts beating so fast you can hear it, and your minds running wild, as your shooting your first few ELK.!
make that first shot count and you will not be concerned with magazine capacity or making a rapid second shot.
Ive used a 340 wby and 375 H&H on most ELK
HUNTS
how many of you gentlemen have and use a bi-pod on your rifle?
Ive used the 13.5" /27" swivel bi-pod for decades on my 340 wby synthetic bolt action, rifle.
the bi-pod allows you to have a steady rifle rest shot from both a prone or seated position,
now I'm sure I'm in the minority and many guys will object to the added weight , but I've learned to hunt by glassing and covering a great deal of ground slowly,
the key here is in carefully selecting the areas hunted and not randomly wandering aimlessly.
you want to study topographical maps carefully, and have experience, you can look over the options, get into productive areas well before other hunters and set up, before first light, allowing you to benefit from the influx p o hunter pressure as they move through the are disrupting game movement, and increase your odds of success by hunting ,
natural travel routes and terrain choke points, and not wasting time glassing the areas with lots off easy road access.
elk and deer learn very quickly that travel, during daylight, near logging roads with vehicle travel access , is not safe.
if you set up to glass for game on a natural game travel choke point , like a narrow side canyon, that has a creek and cover youll up your odds significantly.
having a bi-pod on your rifle and a good familiarity with your rifles trajectory sure helps.
HB25CS 25C Model S -13.5-27" Swivel Bipod
by Harris Engineering
a weatherby 340 mag, It originally had a wood stock, I swapped to synthetic as soon as they were available,I purchased the synthetic stainless version as soon as they came out also
both rifles make the trip most years.
250 grain bullet at 2850 fps , consistently accurate, and I can,t remember needing a second shot on anything in over 38 years
yeah its a bit heavy, at about 10 lbs with scope, but if an extra couple lbs keeps you from visiting the next canyon your in crappy physical shape,
I'm 70 and while I'm slower Im just as persistent and a good deal more skilled and knowledgeable than I was when I was 23 and bought the rifle
and its been on far more successful hunts than many guys will ever make,
if the targets inside of 500 yards its in serious trouble. Ive yet to see a deer or elk shake off a single hit!
my late hunting partner considered anyone not equipped, with a browning BLR in caliber 358 win ,
while hunting elk too be hampered and working under a sever dis-advantage
I loaded for him for almost 30 years , fed 215 primer, 250 grain speer and 44 grains of IMR 4064
that carbine accounted for at least 14 elk over 35 years.
.
he constantly referred to my 340 wby as a "damn CANNON"
we were both successful.
many of you guys may think I'm on drugs for saying this ,
but I have used similar loads hunting deer as I use for elk,
but I\ve used mostly heavy for caliber bullets,for 5 decades,
I don,t shoot unless I have a precise target,on the deers vitals
and to the utter astonishment of many people,
deer generally drop within a few yards... dead as a stump
117/120 grain/257 roberts (BROWNING BLR)
https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/grand-slam-rifle-bullet/1415
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/25-cal-257-117-gr-interlock-btsp#!/
180/200 grain /30/06 (BROWNING BLR)
https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullet/2211
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/30-cal-308-180-gr-interlock-sp#!/
250 grain/ 358 win(BROWNING BLR)
https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullet/2453
350 grain/450 marlin (BROWNING BLR)
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/45-cal-458-350-gr-interlock-rn#!/
hit the deer with a 358 win, 250 grain or 350 grain from a 450 marlin caliber rifle
and place it in that (X) you've described and you'll seldom find you have any issues,
with potential tracking, or deer running more than a few steps,
the more I hunt with the 358 win and 450 marlin chambered BLR carbines the more impressed Ive become
I sight all my rifles in to impact 3.5" higher than the cross hair in the scope indicates at 100 yards
this allows a very easy no calculations required hold,
for consistent shot placement, in the first 150- 200 yards where an easy 75-80%,
of all the deer and elk Ive shot for decades are shot at
Many of the guys that are not lever action fans, buy bolt or pump actions in caliber 35 whelen, the 35 whelen adds about 200 fps to the same bullets the 358 win shoots,
( I doubt any elk or deer knows the difference)several of the guys I hunt elk with think the 7600 35 whelen, is a top choice,
I've used one and I don,t see a damn thing thats in need of improvement if you hunt the ticker timber areas.
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=35 Whelen&Weight=All&type=Rifle&Source=
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=358%20Winchester&Weight=All&type=rifle&Order=Powder&Source=
I would have saved a wheelbarrow full of cash if Id stopped buying new rifles trying to find something better.... never did!
now you better know your games anatomy, because only shots to the vitals will provide quick results, a shot driven thru the arteries over the heart is a sure killer, but remember the bullet must reliably expand and penetrate, the heavier bullets for the caliber tend to work better in my experience, Id suggest use of nothing under 140 grains in a 270 caliber, 165 grains in a 30 cal or under 200 grains in a 338 cal should be considered in my opinion,
YES you can kill elk with lighter bullets but your more consistent with the better penetration the heavier weight provide because you can,t always pick the range or angles
don,t get hung up on velocity just get the most accurate load
yeah, been there many times, back in the 1970s I saw a buddy impressively drop two deer in very rapid succession at about 200 yards with a marlin 444,
he used 240 grain soft point bullets
I went out and bought one, it worked ok, it worked better after I found 265 grain hornady bullets,
but after awhile in the later 1980s I upgraded to a marlin 45/70 , and got into casting 350 grain, bullets and eventually upgraded to a 450 marlin BLR, when they came out with those in about 2000, using 405 grain bullets,
accuracy and stopping power were marginally better after each upgrade, as group sizes shrunk and bullet weight increases and AS I GAINED MORE EXPERIENCE AND SKILL,
the results I got improved.(group sizes became more consistent and slightly smaller, with each change)
now I'm not about to suggest there was anything wrong with any of those calibers, or rifles and,
I doubt any deer or elk would not have dropped if hit well with any of those rifles.
certainly all those rifles would shoot under 2" bench rest groups and the BLR is consistently under 1" three shot groups off the bench rest,
but I don,t know anyone who can keep a consistent 2" or less 100 yard three shot group shooting from a field position,
so I doubt any deer or elk would notice.
but I certainly felt each upgrade was worth the money
https://www.fieldandstream.com/12-best-rifle-cartridges-for-elk-hunting/
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