code scanners/software

I understand when cash flow is tight. But I also know that you have to pay to play. If I were you and wanted a good unit I'd look at some of the Chinese knock offs of the Tech II scanners. They can be picked up for less than 400.00, NEW, and that's a pretty good deal compared to the original Vertronix units that are no longer made. Or there are other units available that are high dollar like EFI Live, HP Tuners and Solas. None of these units are capable of doing everything. An example, you can cycle the solenoids in your ABS unit with the Snap On unit, not so with EFI or HP. If I were you I'd seriously look at the Tech II clones, you might be pleasantly surprised.
 
Id also point out that I know guys that have purchased various code scanners and test equipment
,(youll need several test tools like a multi meter, various pressure gauges, etc.)
that have never taken the time and effort to read the documentation, or instructional manuals
"Ive had several guys say "Hell I had no idea that scanner, could do that"
and
(if you don,t own the cars factory shop manual your working at a disadvantage in most cases)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG...1_7111482710101&aaxitk=2zN0CALYJjn-jWrQahY9vg

nor do many guys understand what the various trouble codes indicate, simply because many don,t mentally connect symptoms with potential causes.
if your plugs and oxygen sensors indicate a lean mix, and your not looking for a vacuum leak or a faulty injector,
loose electrical contact, defective electrical connection or some other reason causing it,
and assume swapping out the sensor is the only option ...like Ive seen a couple times...
your bound to waste a lot of time and cash,
scanners are great tools, as are multi-meters, and various gauges,
but its the mechanics experience and intuition that helps a great deal.
 
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I can truthfully say that a scanner aint worth a damn without the technician having the knowledge to use it properly and know its limitations.

EXAMPLE

My 1995 Dodge truck-5.9 litre 360 V8 with a A 518 auto transmission and 4X4 would quit running at any time and not one of 5 different garages could figure it out after multi replacement of parts that were not needed.Their scanners costing anywhere fromm 200.00 20,000.00 dollars said they couldn't find out what was the problem.
First thing is it is an OBD1 not OBD2 system. All scanners won't work.
Second not one really knew anything about a Dodge
Third none would take back the parts installed that were just installed by the other shops.

So I carried it to the dealership and the tech there replaced parts already replaced. I told him no I wasn't going to pay for un needed parts again. Tell me what is causing the truck to cut off. I finally got to see him hook up the Dodge Dealership scanner and see what was happening. Guess what--wrong PCM that had been replaced twice before by other shops bought from Napa and Car Quest.
Looked at the PCM and it had a sticker that read--MUST BE PROGRAMMED TO THE VEHICLE VIN#. Why would a technician not be able to see this and have it done? 2 Said they did.

Answer is because only the dealership and the Manufacturer can do this LEGALLY for EPA purposes and law suits. If anyone else does, it is illegal.

Well Dodge no longer made new PCMs for a 1995 truck or had a rebuilt one and couldn't find the correct one from ANY auto parts store in the U.S. . They said I could find one myself. I did in N.Y. for $389.00 with no core charge and with a lifetime warranty. Installed and has never quit again and all lights on dash work as should as some didn't before with the other 2 PCMs
Lesson learned about technicians and their training/knowledge. This and the tranny rebuild set me back $6000.00 and am just stumped at how people have no pride in their work or wanting to better themselves with knowledge and not rip people off. I NEVER would have done anything like that in my 35 years of being an ASE certified technician.

And if you don't know why I just kept putting money into this truck, go buy one that has a Class IV hitch, hidden goose neck ball, overload springs, 10 ply tires, 5.9 V8 engine auto trans and towing package, it's about $80,000.00
 
you can,t always trust scanners suggestions either, I recently had a code scanner suggest a cooling fan relay was defective,
replacing it with a known good relay that was working in an identical car had no effect neither relay tested bad either..
the problem was tracked down to a loose ground and a heat sensor that tested good at its rated ohms resistance, but failed to trigger the relay
experience suggested I test the relay by inserting a resistor of the known rated ohms to trigger the relay into the pigtail that connected to the sensor,
a simple test like that proved the sensor was defective as the fan and relay function with the resistor in the pigtail.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG...1_7111482710101&aaxitk=2zN0CALYJjn-jWrQahY9vg


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https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10969

https://www.jameco.com/z/GB115-1-8-1-4-and-1-2-Watt-Resistor-Grab-Bag-Tolerances-2-5-10-_134130.html


ResistorColorCode.gif



resistor-value-chart-inspirational-4-band-and-5-band-resistor-color-codes-of-resistor-value-chart.jpg


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https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Electronics/ResistorColorCodes/
 
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Grumpy, I have a question. Looking at the schematic above brought to mind a question I've had in the past. How does a person tell how much amperage a relay is rated for? I've looked on them and haven't ever seen it called out. You have any idea?
 


IMAGE: 1. Voltage & Current Parameters of the relay in-scripted on the Case of the relay.

2. Voltage & Current Parameters of the relay in-scripted on the Case of the relay.

Most relays are available in different operating voltages like 5V, 6V, 12V, 24V, etc. If the required operating voltage is supplied to the relay, the relay is activated. The operating voltage of a relay is generally in DC.Small signal relays and low voltage power relays are usually in DC, but mains control relays and contactors quite frequently have AC coils.The rest of the terminals of a relay are used to connect either a AC(generally 50/60Hz) or DC circuit. The switching and contact pins of the relay have their respective Maximum voltage and current ratings/Parameters. These Parameters are generally in-scripted on the plastic or PVC case of the relay.On the contact ratings, they will frequently have something like 5A@250VAC / 10A@12VDC. These are the figures you have to be within. Having said that you can run a higher current than stamped on it if your voltage is lower, they aren't directionally proportional though and the datasheet for the relay should be consulted. If a relay is overloaded, it can burn out and damage the circuit or appliances connected to it. Be sure to choose a relay that can handle your voltage and current requirements to ensure the relay coil doesn't burn out and your circuit doesn't get damaged.

Choosing a Proper Relay Amperage
How to calculate for the Correct Relay
Relay Ratings and Limits
Relays often have two ratings: AC and DC. These rating indicate how much power can be switched through the relays. This does not necessarily tell you what the limits of the relay are. For instance, a 5 Amp relay rated at 125VAC can also switch 2.5 Amps at 250VAC. Similarly, a 5 Amp relay rated at 24VDC can switch 2.5 Amps at 48VDC, or even 10 Amps at 12VDC.
Volts x Amps = Watts - Never Exceed Watts!
An easy way to determine the limit of a relay is to multiply the rated Volts times the rated Amps. This will give you the total watts a relay can switch. Every relay will have two ratings: AC and DC. You should determine the AC watts and the DC watts, and never exceed these ratings.

Example Calculations
AC Volts x AC Amps = AC Watts
DC Volts x DC Amps = DC Watts
Example: A 5 Amp Relay is Rated at 250 Volts AC. 5 x 250 = 1,250 AC Watts Example: A 5 Amp Relay is Rated at 24 Volts DC.
5 x 24 = 120 DC Watts
If you are switching AC Devices, Make Sure the AC Watts of the Device you are Switching DOES NOT Exceed 1,250 when using a 5A Relay. If you are switching DC Devices, Make Sure the DC Watts of the Device you are Switching DOES NOT Exceed 120 when using a 5A Relay.
Resistive and Inductive Loads
Relays are often rated for switching resistive loads. Inductive loads can be very hard on the contacts of a relay. A resistive load is a device that stays electrically quiet when powered up, such as an incandescent light bulb. An inductive load typically has a violent startup voltage or amperage requirement, such as a motor or a transformer.
Startup and Runtime Loads
Inductive loads typically require 2-3 times the runtime voltage or amperage when power is first applied to the device. For instance, a motor rate at 5 Amps, 125 VAC will often require 10-15 amps just to get the shaft of the motor in motion. Once in motion, the the motor may consume no more than 5 amps. When driving these types of loads, choose a relay that exceeds the initial requirement of the motor. In this case, a 20-30 Amp relay should be used for best relay life.

https://relaypros.com/choosing_proper_amperage.htm

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html

https://www.instructables.com/id/All-You-Need-to-Know-About-Relays/
 
I've looked at some of the relays I've acquired over time and there is indeed a amp/voltage rating on some, but nothing on some other. I've enclosed some pics. I guess what I'll do is just keep the ones that have the information on them. Thanks for the above info!
 

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It's How they make their money Grumpy.
If you go old School a Carburator & A Vertex Magneto it eliminates all those costs !
 
yeah! I also vastly prefer old school vertex mags, and constant flow fuel injection.
but thats not an option on most cars
vertex1.JPG

Crower_Injectors.jpg
 
New stuff is for the money pits we bought because they are plug and play.

Old school has and always will be the better investment.

I know because old stuff just keeps on running even if not maintained the best, like WWII ship lathes and mills plus old farm equipment/ machines such as saw mills and mowers.

All older stuff is just simple to fix and diagnose. And you don;t have to have a degree for it.
 
I still have the old(,70s) tach/dwell/volt meter I bought way back then. Have 3 points distributors and 10 sets of uni points just in case something goes awry.Can't have too many Chebby small blocks around.
Something like $30.00 back then, but it still works great!!
 
Autel md808 pro I bought recently live data and great tool function I wish it had would the ability to bleed antilock brakes. It does do all systems though code wise and was a hair over $200.
 
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