installing an oil pump pick-up tube

there's two ways ,...... you can use the correct tool, which is ADVISABLE!
use this oil pump(link below) in most stock SBC builds, as it produces a 10% increase in oil volume and standard pressure which is just fine , but obviously check your bearing clearances and oil pump to oil pan floor clearances and braze the CORRECT MATCHING pick-up to the pump, and I'd also suggest if you have the room, for clearance that you look into one of the less expensive 7 quart baffled oil pans as they provide a good deal more potential protection and durability to your bearings longevity.
be very sure you verify the oil pump pick-up to oil pan floor clearance, and braze the pick-up to the pump body.
brazing may be a bit weaker than TIG welding in theory, but I found its (brazing) much less likely to crack over time,
yes there's less expensive oil pumps that will work,
and use of safety wire on the oil pump bolts, and welding/brazing the pick-up to the pump and use of a brace bracket ,
sure wont hurt either
but that's a good value, in a well made pump.
WATCH VIDEO, get the oil pump pickup to oil pan floor clearance correct and for darn sure braze or tig weld the pick-up to the pump once the clearance is verified
you have three rather commonly available sources for decent reasonably priced oil pumps ,
yes I would remove the pressure relief spring temporarily while brazing the pick-up to the oil pump.

Testing High Volume Vs Standard Chevy Oil Pumps

after reading all the posted info , you would more than likely avoid or skip the related links, so I posted them at the beginning so you at least realize, theres much more and useful info available https://www.cpperformance.com/products/Engine_Parts/valve-spring-oiler.htm btw if you don,t want...

garage.grumpysperformance.com

brazing a oil pump pick-up to the pump as proven to be more durable than tig or mig welding on most pumps ,
as brazing is less prone to cracking from constant vibration, if done correctly

Melling,

milodon
https://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/18732/10002/-1
and
moroso,

I generally prefer moroso, or milodon, but all three options will work,
If I was assembling that engine, Id suggest, you want to buy and use a big chevy,
block standard volume and standard pressure oil pump.
obviously you need to verify pick-up to oil an floor clearances ,
and oil pump drive shaft, to the seated distributor shaft ,
clearances during the installation process.
measure accurately then order the correct matching oil pump pick-up

https://www.jegs.com/p/Speedmaster/Speedmaster-Oil-Pump-Pickup-Tubes/3151009/10002/-1

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/speedway-oil-pump-pickup-tubes~8207-10191-4770-10-599-30999

https://www.jegs.com/c/Oil-System_Oil-Pumps-Pickups/10453/10002/-1

https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/engine-parts/oil-system-components/pickup-tubes

https://www.jegs.com/vpt/Melling/En...MI2sHX-KiH4gIVDSsMCh22AgQ_EAMYASAAEgJziPD_BwE

https://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moros...MIn46_96mH4gIVgo7ICh1ebwxQEAAYASAAEgItx_D_BwE

https://www.melling.com/product/oil-pump-screens/
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/video-how-to-moroso-performance-explains-oil-pump-pickup-clearance/
first choice
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-10552/overview/ SBC
or
http://www.jegs.com/i/Melling/689/10778C/10002/-1 BBC
its not that difficult to remove the oil pan, replace the gasket with a new one piece synthetic one and cure that leak,
most guys can do that in a single afternoon with the car up on 4 12 ton jack stands rather easily.
be aware that the crank counter weights rotated to the correct location makes removing the oil pan a bit easier.
it might be a great opportunity to swap to a higher capacity baffled oil pan.
obviously youll want to carefully research the correct oil pan for your engine and chassis before purchasing one

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-240/overview/make/chevrolet/model/corvette
7" deep

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=11-102
6.5" deep


https://www.carid.com/moroso/oil-pa...MIraOQn-602QIVBJ7ACh2mTwt4EAQYAyABEgJZWfD_BwE

7" deep

theres lots of 8" and 8.25" deep corvette oil pans but they don,t last too long with speed bumps and raised manhole cover rims


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIytnIx-y02QIVHrjACh35mQ-OEAQYASABEgJnZvD_BwE

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...etic-oil-cause-leaky-gaskets.2725/#post-13817

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/under-car-safety.26/page-4#post-69999

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-pan-gasket-still-small-leak.3084/#post-11971

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2014/10/23/oil-well-choosing-proper-pressure-volume-oil-pump/

keep in mind swapping to a heavier rated oil pump spring does not increase oil pressure, oil pressure is the result of the resistance to oil flow volume through the bearing clearances, increasing the oil spring pressure in the oil pump only results in limiting the max oil pressure, the pumps resistance to its produced oil volume pumped through those bearing clearances, reaches, before the oil pressure relief valve opens to limit the max oil pressure
keep in mind the oil pump gears spin at 1/2 engine rpm as they are driven by the distributor gear. on the cam shaft

obviously the small groove is intended to flow extra oil volume to the rear vertical thrust bearing surfaces

If your not getting oil to the rockers but have 65 psi as the engine idles,
Id suspect either the cam bearings (especially the rear cam bearing or the oil passage plugs under the timing chain are incorrectly installed











http://www.mellingselectperformance.com/Products/Cast-Iron-Oil-Pumps

second choice
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-18750/overview/ SBC
related threads you should read

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ibutors-wont-seat-on-intake.12538/#post-63636

use proper oil and filters and damn surely use high temp magnets to trap fine metallic abrasive crud
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... pumps.aspx



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-oil-pump-noise.14582/

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/us020516.htm

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/pdf/Oil_Pumps_106.pdf

http://www.milodon.com/oil-system/oil-pumps.asp

http://www.melling.com/Info/TechTipVideos.aspx
there are oil pump testers available commercially or if your mechanically inclined you can fabricate one with reasonable care, after a bit of measuring and purchasing a gauge
http://cvrproducts.com/oil-pressure-test-kit/




Melling 55070
70 psi, Steel, Pink, Pins, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
Melling 77070
Oil Pump Springs, 70 psi, Steel, Pink, Pins, Chevy, Big Block, Kit
Melling 55058
Oil Pump Springs, 58 psi, Steel, Yellow, Pins, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
Melling 55078
Oil Pump Springs, 78 psi, Steel, Green, Pins, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
Melling 77060
Oil Pump Springs, 60 psi, Steel, Black, Pins, Chevy, Big Block, Kit
Melling 55049
Oil Pump Springs, 49 psi, Steel, Green, Pins, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
Melling 77052
Oil Pump Springs, 52 psi, Steel, Purple, Pins, Chevy, Big Block, Kit
Melling 7770M
Oil Pump Springs, 70 psi, Steel, Pink, Chevy, Big Block, Set of 5
Melling 5556F
Oil Pump Springs, 55 psi of Force, Steel, Chevy, Small Block, Set of 5
Melling 5570F
Oil Pump Springs, 70 psi, Steel, Pink, Chevy, Small Block, Set of 5
Melling 7760M
Oil Pump Springs, 60 psi, Steel, Black, Chevy, Big Block, Set of 5
Melling 7752M
Oil Pump Springs, 52 psi, Steel, Purple, Chevy, Big Block, Set of 5

the idea that you can 'pump the pan dry" with a high volume oil pump, in a properly set up chevy engine has been proven false dozens of times, thats a myth that myth been repeated for decades and the reason its gained its supposed verification as fact is simply that guys install a high voluum oil pump in the same engine that they just removed a stock oil pump from and find that they reve the engine and the oil pressure starts to go up then tops out or even drops off , the instant and wrong conclusion drawn is that the high voluum oil pump sucked the oil pan dry, but what really happened in almost every case was a bit simpler.
high volume oil pumps have a longer body that moves the oil pump pick-up closer to the oil pan floor and if the clearance is not checked and corrected to maintain the required 3/8"-1/2" minimum clearance it severely restricts the flow into the oil pump and pressure drops of as a result of the restriction on the intake side of the oil pump pick-up.
this is a fairly easy to problem too prevent ,during assembly with careful measuring, and a bit of clay,to check clearance, before you braze the pick-up to the oil pump, especially if you braze a 1/2" nut to the lower surface of the oil pump pick up to prevent it from vibrating down close to the oil pan floor should it come loose and if you weld braces to prevent its movement after carefully measuring the correct clearance.




opening and smoothing the recessed area and porting the oil passage entrance reduces the restriction to oil flow

notice the open slot between the rear main cap supporting the oil pump and bearing shell support and the area supporting the rear main seal, this prevents PRESSURIZED oil from the bearings reaching the rear main seal.

the as cast recess in the rear main cap where the oil pump mounts can be rather restrictive and shallow, and if your replacing a missing main cap , with one from a different block you'll very likely be required to have the block?cap too be line honed to get the correct alignment and fit clearances for the crank shaft




Chevrolet Performance 14091563
Left (Driver Side) Dipstick Plug
Chevrolet Performance 9421743
Right (Passenger Side) Dipstick Plug

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0911-small-block-chevy-oil-pumps/

grumpy, no mater how hard I tighten the distributor clamp on my intake manifold,
I will almost enviably, find its moved and will require re-timing. any ideas?

Click to expand...

Ive seen this frequently, and almost always its a case where if you measure carefully, youll almost surely find,
the oil pump drive shaft is bottoming out solidly between the oil pump and the distributor gear is binding,
so the distributor is not firmly seated against the intake manifold surface.

the oil pump drive shaft length MUST BE about .050 SHORTER than the distance it would take to firmly seat it inside the distributor drive gear, the cam has a gear that spins the distributor and the oil pump drive shaft is driven by that distributor gear in the lower distributor that extends down to the oil pump drive.

this gear must not bind on the distributor too oil pump drive shaft when the distributor is seated firmly on the intake manifold and clamped into place there must be about .050 clearance minimum

related threads you should really read

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-pump-drive-shafts.123/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ibutors-wont-seat-on-intake.12538/#post-63636

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-pump-drive-shafts.123/#post-19025

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/#post-43110

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/distributor-gear-wear.1701/#post-4160

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...butor-clamp-that-just-won-t-clamp-firmly.871/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-allows-the-distrib-to-turn-even-tighten.873/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/setting-timing-question.1411/#post-3131

ADDING A WELL DESIGNED WINDAGE SCREEN SPEEDS OIL RETURN SPEEDS . AND EFFICIENCY TO THE ENGINE SUMP
your typical small block oil pump has a 4 bolt cover, a 5/8" pick-up tube diameter and the pick-up presses into the cover , it has the smaller 7 tooth gears, and because the pick-up tube presses into the cover swapping from a standard to a high volume pump, with its longer impeller and hoseing casting, tends to move the pick-up about 1/4" closer to the oil pan floor

http://www.mellingselectperformance.com ... -Oil-Pumps

while your checking put some modeling clay under both pick-ups and see the effective clearance difference then see if the old pump clears the problem, in an ideal world the pick-up to pan floor clearance is a minimum of 3/8" and 1/2" is ideal







OIL PUMP MODS
http://www.corvette-restoration.com/res ... ancing.htm

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/res ... lation.htm


small block pumps have 7 tooth gears and 4 bolt covers and don,t provide the smooth oil flow rates the 12 tooth, and 5 bolt cover big block gear pumps provide



big block vs small block chevy oil pump

the standard big block chevy oil pump has a 3/4" oil pump pick-up that is inserted in the main pump body, NOT THE 5 BOLT LOWER COVER

your typical small block oil pump has a 4 bolt cover, a 5/8" pick-up tube diameter and the pick-up presses into the cover , it has the smaller 7 tooth gears, and because the pick-up tube presses into the cover swapping from a standard to a high volume pump, with its longer impeller and hoseing casting, tends to move the pick-up about 1/4" closer to the oil pan floor

your typical big block oil pump has a 5 bolt cover, a 3/4" pick-up tube diameter and the pick-up presses into the pump body , it has the larger more efficient 12 tooth gears and in many cases can be mounted on a small block, but its usually not required
BIG BLOCK CHEVY 5 BOLT cover pump


the standard SMALL block chevy oil pump has a 5/8" oil pump pick-up that is inserted in the lower oil pump 4 bolt lower gear cover

SBC 4 BOLT COVER OIL PUMP

SBC pumps have 7 tooth gears and BBC pumps generally have 12 tooth gears making the flow more consistent
a well supported oil pump pick-up tends to cause far fewer issues than one that cab flex and vibrate as metal fatigue can eventually cause them to break

http://www.mellingselectperformance.com/Products/Cast-Iron-Oil-Pumps




BRAZING IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA,(just be sure to remove the bye-pass circuite parts and verify function when reinstalled)

vibration can and does occasionally cause pick-up failures
Tig welding is OK, BRAZING the pick-up once youve determined the correct oil pan floor clearance is PREFERRED




ITS always a good idea to verify the oil pan floor to oil pump pick-up clearance and to braze the pick-up to the oil pump, to reduce the potential for it to come loose.

yes you can MIG ,TIG or TORCH WELD the pick-up but I found BRAZING works the best and is less likely to warp or crack the pump or pick-up
"how in hell do those twisty, safety wire pliers work?"

well a video should be helpful here! Id also point out that you can buy the wire in several diameters and the thicker sizes are far more difficult to use, home depot sells the 22 gauge and 18 gauge, the 22-24 gauge is what youll use far more commonly, as its much easier to use,both stainless (PREFERED) and galvanized are used, and will work on 95% of the applications on a car your likely to use.
using anti-seize paste on bolt or stud threads helps prevent future problems

using safety wire pliers

JEGS 502080: Oil Pump Pickup for Small Block Chevy - JEGS

Get the Best Performance with JEGS Oil Pump Pickup for Small Block Chevy 502080 parts at JEGS. Shop Now at the Guaranteed Lowest Price!

www.jegs.com

bracing the oil pump with a milodon vibration brace can increase durability

MORE USEFUL INFO

BE 100% SURE that the oil pump bolt or STUD doesn,t protrude past the inner main cap surface , because if it bears on the rear main bearing shell it will almost always result in a quickly failed rear bearing


http://www.islandblue.com/store/product ... -ASSORTED/

TO FUNCTION CORRECTLY THE OIL PUMP PICK UP MUST BE MOUNTED AT BETWEEN 3/8" and 1/2" FROM THE OIL PAN FLOOR,CHECK CAREFULLY WITH CLAY and a DIAL CALIPER ,BEFORE BRAZING OR TIG WELDING THE PUMP PICK-UP TO THE PUMP BODY , ONE OF THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES IS INSTALLING A HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP AND NOT CAREFULLY VERIFYING THE OIL PUMP PICK-UP TO OIL PAN FLOOR CLEARANCE IS IN TH 3/8"-1/2" RANGE WITH THE PAN INSTALLED OR FORGETTING TO BRAZE THE PICK-UP AND ADDING A BRACE TO KEEP IT FROM MOVING, FAILURE TO DO THAT CAN FREQUENTLY RESULT IN LOWER OIL PRESSURE AS THE RPMS INCREASE BECAUSE THE OIL PUMP CAN,T GET ENOUGH OIL INTO THE PUMP THRU THE RESTRICTED OPEN AREA BELOW THE OIL PUMP PICK-UP...FREQUENT WRONGLY DIAGNOSED AS THE PUMP, PUMPING THE PAN DRY, WHICH IS NOT THE CAUSE

place the clay under the pick-up and temporarily mount the oil pan, then remove it and check the compressed clay, get this correct or youll have oil pressure and flow issues

THIS LOOKS like it might be exactly what I buy at my local miller welding supply dealer for brazing/silver soldering, oil pump pick-up tubes to oil pumps, I doubt youll have any issues using it for that application,
but the last time I purchased it it was priced at $6 a stick, or just over $107 for a pack of 20 sticks
and IM fairly sure it said #15 on the package...luckily you seldom require more than about 1/2 a stick to braze an oil pump pick-up onto an oil pump

btw if your curious as too the reference to PLASTIC timing gears, they DO cause problems and should be replaced, because not only will the chain stretch and slip eventually, the nylon debris will clog the oil pump pick-up over time, remember the oil pump pick-up would need to allow the nylon trash to go through the gears and into the oil pump, main cap and only then enter the oil filter.
BE DAMN SURE THE OIL PUMP PICK-UP HAS A LAGER SCREEN SURFACE AREA
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-chains-stretch.5734/#post-17492

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oil-passages-and-improved-oil-flow-mods.3834/

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/P ... lv-15.aspx

http://store.cyberweld.com/tubrrodsi15s ... productads

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/P ... azing.aspx

and I have used a propane torch in the past but my ox-acetolene torch works much better

HARRIS AND VICTOR are the torch brands I prefer







or silver solder rods for the torch
I don't see how anyone serious in this hobby does not have a TIG welder and/or oxy-acetylene torch welder , or at least a decent MIG and/or oxy-acetylene torch welder
and a drill press and hydraulic press
Ive always found the best results from keeping the low rpm pressure , in the 15psi-20psi at hot idle and no more than 65psi at high rpms,is really useful, the voluum required depends on the way the engines clearances and oil systems designed or modified ,voluum/viscosity/clearances in the approximately stock range works fine in most .
I like high voluum pumps but I certainly don,t use them IF the engines nearly stock as the standard Z28 SBC pump works fine
"the standard volume pump gears are about 1.2" long the high volume pump gears are about 1.5 inches long (depends on manufacturer)
heres the discriptions right from chevy

12555884
SBC Oil Pump, High Pressure Z28/LT1. Production high-pressure oil pump with 1.20" gears.
Will produce 60-70 psi oil pressure. Does not include screen. The pickup tube dia. is 5/8" for this pump.
62.17


the true high volume pumps like this below are not necessary UNTILL you've done extensive mods that require the extra oil flow volume

14044872
SBC Oil Pump, High-Volume. This high-volume pump has1.50" long gears.
It has approximately 25% more capacity than a production pump at standard pressure. Does not include screen."

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187

keep in mind, most bbc pumps have 5 bolts in the cover and the pump body is where the pick-up tube installs
keep in mind, most sbc pumps have 4 bolts in the cover and the pump cover is where the pick-up tube installs

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Oil-Pump- ... GoogleBase

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOIhaI3e ... r_embedded

http://books.google.com/books?id=GUC52- ... t&resnum=3

use the correct tool to seat the oil pump pick-up using a wrench and hammer often distorts the tube

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mcat-75

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mcat-62



http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html



heres some decent designed oil pans for bbc and SBC, naturally you need to verify if they work in your application

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categoryd ... code=11330

btw, Ive built SBC engine with standard oil pumps, and big block oil pumps, in the past, and while I have experience doing it both ways and setting engines up with clearances both on the tighter side of the range with the standard oil pumps and a bit looser with the 5 bolt big block pumps, theres a system that needs to be used , not just an oil pump you stick in an engine, generally if you opt to install the larger big block 5 bolt oil pump theres a reason, and you do mods that require the extra oil flow rates., things like larger auxiliary outside mount oil coolers ,come to mind.


https://stellartechnical.com/products/sil-fos-15-brazing-rods?variant=5368214126619&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp4j6BRCRARIsAGq4yMHcjgBKY6oe0p7-knvvNsXU2lpl33Pi1KGgn6RxyRb5n4t4lgGI7hEaAqrKEALw_wcB



or lets go the cheaper route,

you clamp the oil pump body minus the gears and base plate (which you remove temporarily) in a vise with the tube entrance facing vertically, and a short section of soft pine 2x4 under the pump body , if you support the pump body underneath with a section of soft wood 2 x 4 and cushion the vise jaws and clamped between two sections of 1/2" plywood to cushion the vice jaws you find a crows foot open end wrench, or the correct tool, that clamps to the pick-up, that slides over the oil pump pick-up tube but not over the ridge, in the tube that in theory prevents you from inserting the tube too deeply into the pump body. can be use to efficiently tap the tube into the pump body.
failure to use the wood as a vise jaw cushion, binding the drive shaft, marring the mount surface or over tightening the vise will sometimes damage the pump, so be cautious, use your common sense, and treat the pump as the fairly fragile piece of precision casting that it is!
be aware that some pick-ups will extent too far into the pump body if inserted up to the full depth so verify internal pump gear clearance and smooth function,before brazing the pick-up tube into place
use a 8" extension and the crows foot wrench and a rubber mallet to seat the pick-up tube into the pump body, then temporarily mount the oil pump and place a lump of modeling clay on the pick-up body lower surface and install the oil pan for a second to compress the clay giving you the distance between the oil pump pick-up and the oil pan floor, adjust it until the distance is approximately 3/8"-1/2"
once that distance is correct BRAZE the pickup to the pump body AFTER temporarily removing the bye-pass spring so it won,t get annealed, and its a very good idea to use the type of pick-up that has both the feed tube and the screened suction section braced to the pump body, so they don,t crack from vibration and metal fatigue.
Id also point out that a few of the oil pump pick up designs available , have tubes that can be pressed into the pump body far enough to contact the gears, if pounded into the pump to the swagged ring on the mount tube, it makes a good deal more sense to radias the exit port and insert the pick-up only to the point the exit tort radias reaches it and after careful measuring and removing the spring assembly to BRAZE the pick up to the pump body. It also helps to weld in a vibration brace.
LIKE THESE

if you use a non-supported pick-up like this one below, its far more likely to break

once that's done you clean lube and re-install the pump components and verify clearances, and the gears spin freely with out binding, don,t forget to use some MOLY assembly lube, or VASOLINE on the gears to assure it primes quickly.
BTW if you have a sudden drop in oil pressure on any engine with no other symptoms, you might want to replace the oil filter and check oil levels before you panic as its not uncommon for some brands of oil filters to fail internally

YOU NEVER want to bolt the pump body to the rear main cap and beat the pick-up into the pump body as that will result in un- acceptable stress on the cast pump body which CAN RESULT IN A TOTAL PUMP FAILURE





brazing the oil pump pick-up tube to the pump body after carefully checking clearances will usually prevent the oil pump pick-up from vibrating loose over time
BRAZING the pick-up to the pump is a good idea but remember to remove the pressure regulator valve first and oil and replace it after the pumps cooled





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOIhaI3e ... r_embedded

this is a factory produced hamberger oil pan but its a decent example of what can be fabricated






TEL: (562) 921-0404
http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/

other options



http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/supergascompstreetpans.htm

http://www.kevkoracing.com/wetsump_chevy.htm

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=11330

pick up designs

almost every mechanics tool box needs a few basic measuring tools and supplies, dealing in proven facts as to correct clearance sure beats guessing

https://www.amazon.com/Claytoon-Set...d=1466872286&sr=8-17&keywords=plastilina+clay

http://www.utrechtart.com/Plastalin...currency=USD&gclid=CN3G75zOw80CFQgaaQodKbgFjA
http://www.milodon.com/oil-system/pickups.asp

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categoryd ... code=12001

http://poske.com/detail_it.htm?groupid=179

http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpumppi ... alpump.htm

http://www.mellingselectperformance.com/Products/Cast-Iron-Oil-Pumps

this is the more common SBC chevy design


this is the more common BBC chevy design


IVE used these aftermarket designs many times with zero problems, keep in mind BRAZING the pickup to the pump body is a good durability idea, and the pan you selected will limit your pick-up design choices.
just make sure its solidly brazed to the pickup port in the oil pump body even if its a bolt on design and that the pickup tube inside the pump does not extend in far enough to contact the pump gears as occasionally they do!
Ive generally found the 12 gear tooth BBC oil pumps to work very well, on both the SBC,
if you need significantly more oil flow than the stock z28 style pump provides,
(unlikely on a nearly stock SBC)
https://www.jegs.com/i/Melling/689/...MIwuTqqJn13wIVnbrACh0s8wdqEAQYASABEgJID_D_BwE

and the LS7 BBC works well on the BBC engines.
a great many problems seemingly related to oil pumps,
are really the result of improper clearances on the oil pump pick-up to oil pan floor.
or use of the wrong oil pump drive shaft length or type.

I vastly prefer BRAZING as it tends to be less prone to cracking, but yeah, it needs to be secured, simply press fit won't always work long term

read the link

added vibration reducing braces also tends to reduce long term durability issues
they also make brackets for pick-ups as added security
http://www.grumpysperformance.com/bbcop1a.jpg


https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/at...104747/?hash=c29a3fa94c781a09cea593b621da275c
everyone should have a mig or TIG welder or oxy-acetylene torch welder
https://www.champpans.com/products/p/m99hvs/

https://www.champpans.com/products/p/m10770/

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/moroso/part-type/oil-pumps

https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-22175...ocphy=9012039&hvtargid=pla-608671094115&psc=1

https://pitstopusa.com/i-5073333-mo...MIrdu_6pv13wIVDY3ICh0IoASSEAQYBCABEgL0y_D_BwE

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-info-on-your-v8-lube-system.52/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...chevy-oil-pump-style-guidelines-advice.13205/


you have several potential major sources for traditional wet sump SBC and BBC oil pumps
obviously youll want to shop carefully to correctly match the pump and pick-up combo ,
to the engines requirements and oil pan clearances

TRW
https://www.ebay.com/b/TRW-Car-Truck-Oil-Pumps-for-Chevrolet/6778/bn_21017532

MELLING
https://www.summitracing.com/search/make/chevrolet?keyword=melling oil pumps&ar=1&kr=melling chevy oil pumps

MOROSO
https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/moroso/part-type/oil-pumps

keep in mind, most bbc pumps have 5 bolts in the cover and the pump body is where the pick-up tube installs
keep in mind, most sbc pumps have 4 bolts in the cover and the pump cover is where the pick-up tube installs


great!
now BRAZE the pick-up tube to the pump,at the correct clearance from the oil pan floor,(after temporarily removing the bye-pass spring to prevent its getting annealed) because engine vibrations WILL FREQUENTLY over time in most cases cause the pump pick-up to move, if its only press fit,and if you operate the engine at higher rpm levels ,if you don,t braze the pick-up.

viewtopic.php?f=60&t=1948&p=5176&hilit=braze#p5176

viewtopic.php?f=60&t=2194&p=5905&hilit=braze#p5905

brazing the oil pump pick-up tube to the pump body after carefully checking clearances will usually prevent the oil pump pick-up from vibrating loose over time

Ive always preferred stainless socket head cap screws, on the bolt on oil pump pick-ups with external bolts bottom plate bolts drilled for safety wire, or using LOCTITE on the threads
bolt on oil pump pick-ups are subject to a lot of vibration so you safety wire the bolts, and us LOCTITE on the threads, and a brace bolted or welded to the pick-up won,t hurt



external locations need safety wire
http://www.whizwheels.com/Tips/safetywiring.html





http://www.jegs.com/p/Milodon/Milodon-P ... 5/10002/-1



if your serious about having a bolt holding something like an accessory, STARTER, Alternator, or bracket or u-joint strap etc. remain securely fastened , theres two steps you can take to assure it won,t come loose unless you want it too
step one
use a clean, and well degreased bolt and threads, and apply a decent thread locker to the threads, then torque them to the intended torque


step two
USE DRILLED SAFETY WIRE LOCKS
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4306&p=26502&hilit=safety+wire#p26502


if you use BOTH youll find bolts stay exactly where you left them

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=45341


http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/store ... tage=step3

youll find these very helpful

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... word=allen

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=96645


viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1800&p=4597#p4597

it may be hard to believe but your oil pump pick-up if unsupported vibrates and tends to work loose, so brazing it in place and use of a support strap tends to help, but its not a 100% cure, install the pick-up wrong or use the wrong support and they can still occasionally break, failures like this one below are frequently the result if tapping the oil pump pick up into place with the tip of a screwdriver on the ridge on the pick-up tube, with a hammer rather than using the correct tool


if some internal engine oil control components breaking,in engines, theres a reason,
and its frequently related to either inferior materials being used or component design,
not having the operational stress being induced taken into account in the design phase.
or the components not having been ,manufactured or installed correctly.

example
for awhile SBC oil pumps were breaking after the manufacturer,
tried to save some cash by reducing the thickness of the housing casting ,
this was a really stupid change that cost them a great deal, in customer confidence,
and potential future sales are word, of the defective pump, got around quickly
theres some vibration stress on any oil pump, and the manufacturer rapidly found ,
they were forced to revert to the original older design.
trying to save a few cents per pump so they could undercut the cost,
of the pumps of other manufacturers, and gain an advantage,
cost them rather dearly in sales.
as many of you gentlemen know MELLING CHANGED the casting on their standard M55 high volume oil pumps making them weaker and thinner

occasionally failing when the cast body cracks
http://www.aa1car.com/library/us1097.htm

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manua ... tm#oil-low

pick-ups like this one below are less likely to break due to better support


adding a brace and brazing it to the pick-up tube and use loc-tite on the bolt threads helps durability



viewtopic.php?f=54&t=64&p=12398#p12398

If you have a drill press and welder its not at all difficult to fabricate a custom made oil pump pick-up security system brace from 16 ga sheet steel,or simply braze the pick-up to the pump and add one or more brace straps ,but measure and check carefully several times, especially if you have a custom made oil pan, just be sure to check clearances before doing more than tack welding the pick-up and braces because if what you fabricate looks great but won,t fit in your oil pan with the correct clearances your screwed.....yeah! don,t ask it was 40 plus years ago, but I still needed a new oil pump, after that screw up, so we all learn by forgetting to think and measure correctly at times


EXAMPLES

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/23621/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/23620/10002/-1


in 40 plus years of building engines IVE NEVER seen a PROPERLY brazed and braced oil pump pick-up come loose, just remember to remove the spring and piston from the pressure regulating bye-pass and let the parts slowly air cool before lubricating and re-assembling the components.





watch the videos, and always disassembly and inspect any oil pump,
clean and inspect your oil pump internally and at least use loc-tite thread locker
or ideally use safety wire on the bolts and BRAZE the oil pump pick-up to the pump body.
BRAZE ROD MELTS at well OVER 800F and done correctly has a tensile strength of 50,000 PLUS psi when used, on clean metal surfaces

SHOP CAREFULLY , WHEN YOU GO TO BUY AN OIL PAN<AND ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT WILL FIT YOUR CAR CORRECTLY AND ASK FOR SUGGESTIONS ON MATCHING COMPONENTS OR PARTS THAT WON,T FIT

MILODON,
http://www.milodon.com/

CHAMP
http://www.champpans.com/products/c/oil-pans/

CANTON,
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/category/1501/Chevy-SS--Road-Race-Oil-Pans/1.html

MOROSO
http://www.moroso.com/

AVIAID
http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/ws_oilpns_sbc.html

STEFS
http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/circletrackwetsump.htm

HAMBURGERPERFORMANCE
http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/

KEVKO
https://kevko.myshopify.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brazing

http://www.weldguru.com/braze-cast-iron.html

http://www.richard-whitehouse.co.uk/soldering notes.pdf

some related info you might want

step one' if your having clearance issues is verifying where the interference is exactly
buy View attachment 104746

coat the oil pump and pick-up, then look for the area on the oil pan slosh barrier and oil pan walls that you suspect interferes with the oil pump pick-up install
try to install pump, remove and inspect the area for smeared dykem, then use shears , a ball pean hammer or dremel to clearance as required
place modeling clay under the pick-up to measure to verify theres at least 3/8" but not more than 1/2" under the oil pick-up to pan clearance

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/artic ... ?id=264303

http://www.ehow.com/how_4870148_install ... -pump.html

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1192&p=3397&hilit=+stud#p3397

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=459

http://www.ehow.com/how_4506329_replace ... vette.html

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/res ... lation.htm



Look closely at this picture its quite common for a non-brazed oil pump pick-up to vibrate loose over time until like this one has obviously done, if the oil pump pick-up rotates down until it touches the oil pan floor,it almost always causes oil pressure and flow to be reduced, thats bad because in restricts oil flow into the oil pump and tends to increase bearing wear rates,bu iit can get even worse, it may take months or even years but if it vibrates down to touch the oil pan floor, theres a good chance that it will eventually vibrate loose and fall out of the pump casting, thats why brazing the pick-up to the pump body and using a brace that bolts to the pump increases durability.
the oil pump pick-up should remain parallel with the oil pan floor and at a distance of between 3/8" min to about 1/2" max to maintain maximum flow rates thru the oil pump

have you ever dealt with anyone who has little or NO, experience with engines that asked you a strait question, and its very obvious that they just don,t understand the basics of how the system works?
well awhile back I helped a guy install an aftermarket 7 quart oil pan and high volume oil pump, on his otherwise stock corvette,
well he managed to over reve his engine and bust a push rod, we get that fixed and do a compression check, etc. and I suggest pulling the intake and if we don,t find the part we might need to pull the oil pan, because were missing a bit of the broken push rod, so he says," not to worry about it the oil filter will trap it if it makes its way down into the oil pan well before it reaches the oil pump"......I just stared at him for 30 seconds in total amazement
now if he had shrapnel screens and magnets it would be nearly impossible for random bits of metallic debris to get sucked into the oil pump, and in theory yes theres a screen preventing that, but the factory screens are well known for coming loose.
yes the chance of even a stock oil pump ingesting a bit of push-rod is low, but its also preventable so why take any chances


related threads
https://stellartechnical.com/products/sil-fos-15-brazing-rods?variant=5368214126619&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp4j6BRCRARIsAGq4yMHcjgBKY6oe0p7-knvvNsXU2lpl33Pi1KGgn6RxyRb5n4t4lgGI7hEaAqrKEALw_wcB


http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=206

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4578&p=12188&hilit=+gasket+thick#p12188

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=672&p=929#p929

"Hey Grumpy,
Great info. I have a standard sbc OF installed. I have also installed a Lokar flexible dipstick. According to the reading on the stick, the pan is full. Pan is a B+B Drag Race 7QT. I would "guess" total capacity is around 7.5 QTS with filter. Could I diagnose an oil pick-up height problem by adding a QT or so. In the reading, a low or restricted pick up height clearance would cause the same problem and cause cavitation?
Thanks,
"

adding a quart will have little effect if the problem is the oil pump pick-up is too close to the oil pan floor, you need 3/8"-1/2 MINIMUM clearance, Id suggest verifying even if it required pulling the oil pan, but theres a simpler way, you can inspect thru the oil drain hole with the proper tool

http://www.tooltopia.com/provision-pv618.aspx

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=3194&p=9385&hilit=tool+inspect+scope#p9385

this is one of the very commonly screwed up , during installation, parts !
the most frequent way to screw it up is to install the stud incorrectly, too, do it correctly youll simply install the rear main , torque it in place and spin the oil pump mount stud in to the main cap AFTER FIRST degreasing the stud and main cap threads with a solvent like CARB OR THROTTLE BODY SPRAY then coating both the main caps female threads and the studs male (shorter coarser threads) with RED LOC-TITE, (HIGH STRENGTH)

, you spin it in until it touches the back of the bearing shell then back it OUT at least one half too one full turn, install the pump, verify clearance, install the load bearing washer and thread on the retainer nut and tighten it down while you make sure the stud itself does NOT move further in, it must NOT touch the rear or the lower rear main bearing shell or it can potentially cause bearing wear issues or in extreme cases crank failure.
use the BLUE medium strength thread loc-tite on the nut threads
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lct-37418
(MEDIUM STRENGTH)
http://www.qmuniforms.com/galls-sta...gclid=CPS5sJqMis4CFQERaQodvEkFeQ#.V5OnSfkrLcc
many engine builders add a bit of extra insurance here by using a pointed punch to lock the upper nut to threads to the stud threads, in two or three locations to be absolutely sure the nut won,t back off under vibration



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...srese1-_-arp&gclid=CKGo4oeDis4CFZCLaQoduT4C-A


mounting the oil pump to the rear main cap

failure to use the correct oil pump,mounting stud, bolt or nut or carefully check clearances when mounting an oil pump can cause problems, AND THE HEIGHT OF THE MAIN CAPS AND OIL PUMP CASTINGS DO DIFFER, ESPECIALLY ON THE LATER BIG BLOCK VS THE EARLY BIG BLOCK COMPONENTS



BE 100% SURE that the oil pump bolt or STUD doesn,t protrude past the inner main cap surface , because if it bears on the rear main bearing shell it will almost always result in a quickly failed rear bearing[/b
ONE RATHER COMMON MISTAKE IS USING THE WRONG OIL PUMP STUD OR BOLT TO MOUNT THE OIL PUMP AS IF EITHER EXTENDS THRU THE REAR MAIN CAP SURFACE, IT CAN AND WILL BIND ON THE BEARING SHELL BACK SURFACE AND CAN LOCK OR RESTRICT, SMOOTH CRANK ROTATION.
STUDS ARE PREFERRED BECAUSE THEY GET THE THREADS THAT ENTER THE MAIN BEARING CAP COATED WITH THREAD LOCKER, LIQUID , THEN SCREWED IN TO THE MAIN CAP UNTIL THEY TOUCH THE BACK OF THE BEARING SHELL THEN BACKED OF 3/4 OF A TURN , THE OIL PUMP MOUNTED , AND THE WASHER AND FINE THREAD LOCKING NUT SECURED PER THE TORQUE SPECS.THIS INSURES THE STUD DOES NOT BEAR ON THE REAR BEARING SHELL , A BOLT WHEN TIGHTENED MUST BE TURNED DEEPER INTO THE THREADS IN THE REAR MAIN CAP, AND ITS MUCH HARDER TO PREVENT IT FROM BEARING OR CAUSING PRESSURE ON THE BACK OF THE BEARING SHELL IF ITS A BIT TOO LONG (A COMMON ISSUE, IN REBUILDS WHERE THE WRONG BOLTS USED.)


viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187&p=5890#p5890

]yes the oil flows around the mounting stud,from oil pump to main cap to reach the engine oil passages, thru the oil filter

just keep in mind that you'll need to very carefully blend and smooth and carefully clean,the edges of the beveled area where the oil port feeds the bearing surface with some 600 grit sand paper so the oil flows well and theres no edges to cause bearing wear issues or crud left from the process that would get embedded in the bearings.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-on-the-cheap-well-to-start.11739/#post-55481

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/#post-43094

I have never drilled & Roll pinned the Oil pump Drive gear to the shaft Grumpy.
Is it something you only do yourself to SBC & BBC ??
Or all popular V8 engines ?

Only old HO Racing recomended doing the same.
But they eliminated the intermediate oil pump driveshaft.
Custom machined a long 11" one piece shaft.
Pressed into the Melling M54 D Ram Air 4 60psi pump.
And the Melling M54F Ram Air 5 & SD455 80Psi oil pump.

No its not done to any Race engines here in Illinois.
The idea has Merit.
Must be an Old NASCAR Trick taught to You.
My Pontiac Engines have 120-130 psi cold oil pressure at 2,600 RPM During warmup.
Long duration cams used so I keep my foot oncthe gas steady to warmup for 1st 4-5 minutes.
Hot pressure is 100psi.
At 950Rpm idle 40-45 psi Hot.
2,000 is 80psi.
Casterole 10w30 oil.
Melling M54F pump.
Custom oiling mods of my own.
Never slipped the Driven gear on the shaft yet.

Ford 5.0 guys in Joliet Renegade have 140-150psi Hot.
They turn insane RPMS. 8-9k.
Must have they tell me to live.

BE DAMN SURE THE OIL PUMP PICK-UP HAS A LARGER SCREEN SURFACE AREA

anything entering the pump can damage the clearances and gears as debris passes through the oil pump BEFORE oil enters the oil filter , and magnets are useless on globs of sealant aluminum, plastic ,nylon and most gasket materials, and a singly valve keeper or loose bolt can seize the gears if it gets past the oil pump pick-up screen.
SHRAPNEL SCREENS AND MAGNETS HELP


BE 100% SURE that the oil pump bolt or STUD doesn,t protrude past the inner main cap surface , because if it bears on the rear main bearing shell it will almost always result in a quickly failed rear bearing[/b
ONE RATHER COMMON MISTAKE IS USING THE WRONG OIL PUMP STUD OR BOLT TO MOUNT THE OIL PUMP AS IF EITHER EXTENDS THRU THE REAR MAIN CAP SURFACE, IT CAN AND WILL BIND ON THE BEARING SHELL BACK SURFACE AND CAN LOCK OR RESTRICT, SMOOTH CRANK ROTATION.

read the two linked threads below
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-chains-stretch.5734/#post-17492

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oil-passages-and-improved-oil-flow-mods.3834/


the stock oil pump pick-ups in many cases plug with debris easily ,





a sturdy well braced oil pump pick-up screen thats brazed in place is a huge improvement over the pressed in stock oil pump pick-up, but if you have some fabrication skills and a welder your certainly not limited to catalog parts alone.
you CAN fabricate custom fitted parts

yes you can (and probably should) take the time to fabricate a windage screen similar too the one shown in the link above,
or in these link's
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ScreenInstall.pdf

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-20-906/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/custom-windage-tray.10490/

http://www.colemanracing.com/Windage-Screen-P3831.aspx

http://www.musclecardiy.com/performance/how-to-build-racing-engines-sumps-and-oiling/#

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ctrp-0603-oil-pan-design-windage-tech/

occasionally I get asked questions that I thought were rather obvious,
but of course, if I generally have been doing something for 5 plus decades,
I seem to forget many guys are totally new to the skills required
I was asked "how one should braze an oil pump pick-up to an oil pump?"
well step on is mounting the oil pump to the engine and carefully checking the oil pump pick-up clearance to the mounted oil pans inner floor ,
your looking for a 3/8"-to-1/2" clearance between the two, look above, earlier in the thread, for details


I posted this video, but he makes several MISTAKES in my opinion,
first Id use a stud and thread it in untill it bottoms on the bearing in the rear main then back it out at least one full turn so your 100% sure its not touching the rear of the bearing shell.and use loc tite on the threads of the stud, Id also use a washer under the nut on the stud and loc tite on those threads, and Id damn sure USE a lump of clay to verify the oil pump pick-up to oil pan floor clearance. before brazing not welding the pumps pick-up in place.



BE 100% SURE that the oil pump bolt or STUD doesn,t protrude past the inner main cap surface , because if it bears on the rear main bearing shell it will almost always result in a quickly failed rear bearing[/b
ONE RATHER COMMON MISTAKE IS USING THE WRONG OIL PUMP STUD OR BOLT TO MOUNT THE OIL PUMP AS IF EITHER EXTENDS THRU THE REAR MAIN CAP SURFACE, IT CAN AND WILL BIND ON THE BEARING SHELL BACK SURFACE AND CAN LOCK OR RESTRICT, SMOOTH CRANK ROTATION.
STUDS ARE PREFERRED BECAUSE THEY GET THE THREADS THAT ENTER THE MAIN BEARING CAP COATED WITH THREAD LOCKER, LIQUID , THEN SCREWED IN TO THE MAIN CAP UNTIL THEY TOUCH THE BACK OF THE BEARING SHELL THEN BACKED OF 3/4 OF A TURN , THE OIL PUMP MOUNTED , AND THE WASHER AND FINE THREAD LOCKING NUT SECURED PER THE TORQUE SPECS.THIS INSURES THE STUD DOES NOT BEAR ON THE REAR BEARING SHELL , A BOLT WHEN TIGHTENED MUST BE TURNED DEEPER INTO THE THREADS IN THE REAR MAIN CAP, AND ITS MUCH HARDER TO PREVENT IT FROM BEARING OR CAUSING PRESSURE ON THE BACK OF THE BEARING SHELL IF ITS A BIT TOO LONG (A COMMON ISSUE, IN REBUILDS WHERE THE WRONG BOLTS USED.)

clean and de-grease the oil pump body and oil pump pick-up, remember the pressure relief spring must be temporarily removed,
during the brazing process, you'll want to carefully measure the mounting angle and oil pan floor to pick-up clearance before brazing it in place, of the pick-up to oil pump,
remember the oil pump pick-up extends into the oil pump body on the BBC oil pump and in a few cases can extend in deep enough to jam the impeller gears, on the sbc the pick-up is in the oil pump cover so thats not an issue/ once you have the alignment? clearance correct it can be brazed in place, an acetylene torch is better than propane
coated braze rods are for electric welders you want un-coated for a torch braze job,

https://www.walmart.com/ip/0-1-x-18...2587&wl11=online&wl12=901083132&wl13=&veh=sem

https://www.airgas.com/product/Welding-Products/Filler-Metal/Solder/Silver---Soldering-&-Brazing/p/HAR15620F1
you simply heat the area at the joint and keep dabbing the braze rod until it flowing into the joint, work it around the circumference until molten brazed copper flows into the joint and the edges feather seal, then let the pump slowly air cool don,t spray it with water, or dunk it.
that could crack the joint or pump case or lid.

SBC OIL PUMP WITH 4 COVER BOLTS IN LID AND PICK-UP IN LID COVER


the standard big block chevy oil pump has a 3/4" oil pump pick-up that is inserted in the main pump body, NOT THE 5 BOLT LOWER COVER

your typical small block oil pump has a 4 bolt cover, a 5/8" pick-up tube diameter and the pick-up presses into the cover , it has the smaller 7 tooth gears, and because the pick-up tube presses into the cover swapping from a standard to a high volume pump, with its longer impeller and hoseing casting, tends to move the pick-up about 1/4" closer to the oil pan floor

your typical big block oil pump has a 5 bolt cover, a 3/4" pick-up tube diameter and the pick-up presses into the pump body , it has the larger more efficient 12 tooth gears and in many cases can be mounted on a small block, but its usually not required

use the correct tool to seat the oil pump pick-up using a wrench and hammer often distorts the tube

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mcat-75

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mcat-62

BIG BLOCK CHEVY 5 BOLT cover pump

When you use clay to check the gap to the bottom of the pan how do you keep it from moving into or through the screen? Also, why couldn't a person use safety wire to secure the pickup to the pump?

clay can easily be prevented from getting into a pick-up with a piece of duct tape temporarily placed between the screen and clay
early in the thread info posted above, I posted info on various braces and safety wire, roll pins, that add security but brazing is still preferred on pick-up retention



http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/9-inch-safety-wire-twister-45341.html

Thanks for the tape tip, that's a good idea I'll use in the future. Next question, how does one adjust the depth of the pickup if it's out of tolerance? Do you have to refab the bottom of the pan????

one more advantage to brazing over welding, you can re-melt braze,
and adjust the pick-up then re-braze without damaging the pump or pick-up components

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...drops-at-15psi-on-fresh-327.16005/#post-96527

(remember to remove the bye-pass spring & piston, from the pump if brazing,
then re-install after oiling the pump and bye-pas parts correctly checking clearances,
oil oil pump internal parts well once the parts cool to room temps.)

I suggest that brazing or welding the pickup to the pump is not as fool proof as many people believe. I have pulled apart a number of performance engines and it is not uncommon to find the welded portion of the pickup tube still held in place on the pump - just the way it was intended. The only problem is that about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch from that spot the pickup tube is broken in half which resulted in a loss of oil pressure and damaged bearings along with crank throws. I now prefer to weld multiple braces to the pickup tube and use the oil pump cap attachment points to secure the pickup tube in place. And yes I have even seen one of these installations break one of the braces but not both - this was in a BBC powered jet boat.

yes thats a very valid concern, any time you allow an unsupported section of the oil pump pick-up to not have a welded or properly bolted external support bracing,
you can almost depend on constant flexing to eventually cause durability issues.
a good many engines benefit from having a bolt on external brace to the engines windage screen, if you think in three dimensions vs just two this can be done rather easily.
https://www.chevydiy.com/chevy-big-block-performance-lubrication-system-guide/

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/useful-tips-installing-oil-pans-right-way/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

one more in an ENDLESS LIST of reasons any serious shop needs to have access to a decent welder (A OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH in this case) a drill press and a dial caliper could allow you to fabricate a $1 l-bracket that could easily be the difference between a $10-$15K engine living a long trouble free life vs a very expensive self destructing engine , lesson in why adding a $1 brace would be almost mandatory

Grumpy have you ever encountered an oil pump making a loud noise like a rod knock? I swapped out a melling m55 for a melling 155 to resolve an oil pressure issue above 5k rpms and now there is a loud noise coming from the bottom end.

no, thats one issue I've yet to see!
obviously there's a chance the low oil pressure even if you changed the oil pump and got better oil flow & pressure did not prevent a bearing wear issue, or the oil pump is deflective or maybe installed wrong, so the oil pump drive is binding, why not take it off and inspect it if you feel is not functional