got asked again about what Id select for a good all around elk/mule deer rifle

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
"grumpy I know you"ve gone over this several times but after reading several threads,and read linked articles,
I see references from everything from a 270 win-to-a 375 H&H ,
thats a huge range, in power and I just don,t see where any of the larger more powerful cartridges are required"

REQUIRED? probably not!
damn useful and dependable HELL YES!
I think you may be confusing a cartridges potential lethality, with a rifles ability to consistently put down game efficiently,
and quickly from any reasonable range or angle,factors that

differ wildly with both range and the bullet being selected,
And the game animal being hunted, and the likely terrain and conditions its generally hunted in,
and the result is very dependent on the shooter knowing the games anatomy,
.and being able to place shots accurately.
You really can,t logically base your choice from those guys who quote the math,
from trajectory and energy tables, simply because ranges and the angles and conditions vary wildly. for extra long range your going to want a 30-330 caliber magnum, but in 50 years of hunting elk and mule deer I think Ive had only 3-4 times I needed to shoot at over 300 yards.
youll find a great many threads discussing cartridges, a 30/06 with the proper ammo, like a good 180-200 grain bullet, will kill any elk if the guys using it understands its limitations on range and the animals anatomy, and will certainly work well in over 80% of the areas and conditions your likely to see.
that does not mean its ideal, every caliber and rifle compromises in some area of range,recoil or penetration, rifle weight etc. so the person selecting the rifle will make a choice he feels makes the best compromises,
personally I want a bit more power and bullet mass and I'm willing to accept more rifle weight and recoil... most people don,t want those factors.

example

with a 300 wby or win mag
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/30-cal-308-212-gr-eld-x#!/

with a 340 wby or lapua mag
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/338-cal-.338-270-gr-eld-x#!/
accumark.png

Ive hunted elk for almost 50 years, Ive seen guys successfully drop elk with everything from a 257 Roberts to a 458 win mag.
one guy I hunt with uses a ruger #1 in 270, and my late hunting partner preferred a BLR in 358 win,
both guys have a long list of successful hunts.
what rifle you select is far less important than your skill using it and knowledge of the elk and the area hunted,
a decent rifle,you already probably own, in a caliber like a 30/06, with a quality 180 grain-210 grain bullet,
in a , bolt action, slide action, single shot or BLR is fully adequate in experienced hands
Id say far more hunts fail due to lack of the hunters physical conditioning, lack of proper knowledge of the area hunted,
or lack of persistence than due to the rifle used

the best combo Ive found for general use where you don,t know the ranges likely to be encountered,
is a synthetic stock 340 wby loaded with 250 grain bullets and a decent scope like this
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/3...e-scope-30mm-tube-5-20x-50mm-side-focus-matte
Weatherby340ma.jpg

I doubt Id have done any , better or worse with a ruger falling block in 338 win or 35 whelen
or a BLR in 30/06
theres no disputing the fact that a properly placed shot from a 270 win , 30/06 or 308 win will be lethal, if placed correctly and if the correct bullet design has been selected, yet,
in 45 years Of elk hunting , I've noticed several distinct trends, that have effected my personal choices and confidence in the rifles I personally use.
when I started out every magazine,
I read was promoting flat trajectory magnums like the remington 7mm mag and 300 win mag , 300 wby mag, as the ideal hunting calibers,
most Of the guys I hunted with were originally either 7mm or 30 caliber magnum fans.
hit almost any game in a vital area with a reasonable caliber and mortal/ lethal damage can be done,
but that is not always an indication of how fast an animals likely to drop or how far it might travel between the time its hit and it dies,
As time progressed factors like recoil, muzzle blast,rifle length and cost of both rifle and ammo and easy of operation began to be considered ,
and watching the consistent results other people were getting,
seemed to have a good deal of weight or effect on the rifles other members of my elk hunt group bought.
over the decades most of the guys saw the advantages of the 30-45 caliber carbines,as these rifles seemed to produce very convincing results at, as the ranges we found elk at seldom exceeded 300 yards,
and rifles chambered for the 308 win, 358 win, 35 whelen , and 338 win and even the 45/70,became favorites!
we found that the rifle and caliber were far less important than the skill, endurance and experience of the guy using it!
ANYTHING FROM A 257 ROBERTS-375 h&h WILL WORK FINE IN EXPERIENCED HANDS,
that does not imply theres not some advantages in some calibers over other's,
just that there's much more to elk hunting that the cartridge you select to use!
I started my big game hunting career with a 30/06 Springfield and over the decades , I settled on the 340 wby and 375 H&H as being my ideal rifle calibers ,
but I seriously doubt any of the successful results in lethality would have changed in any major way had I simply retained the 30/06 Springfield, or bought a 35 whelen.
but I can remember several hunts where the result of being able to put down game fast and effectively made a big potential difference.
but once you develop a 100% confidence in your rifle(s) your very reluctant to change from what you've proven many times over will kill with a single shot.
my late hunting partner Ron was convinced his 358 win BLR was idea, there's at least 5 guys in our group that idolize the Remington 7600 in caliber 35 whelen.
keep in mind your whole hunts success may depend on your ability to make one well placed shot and your knowledge of elk anatomy and your field accuracy.
from my experience I would suggest you select a rifle with enough power and a flat enough trajectory that you feel comfortable making a 250-300 yard shot from field positions, as easily 95% of my shots at game, over 45 years of hunting in at least 7 states for deer and elk, were taken at under 300 yards
the two most popular rifles in the hunt club I belong too are,
7600re.png

Browning_BLRa.jpg

my late hunting partner considered anyone not equipped, with a browning BLR in caliber 358 win ,
while hunting elk too be hampered and working under a sever dis-advantage
I loaded for him for almost 30 years , fed 215 primer, 250 grain speer and 44 grains of IMR 4064
that carbine accounted for at least 14 elk over 35 years.
. I received a brief e-mail asking why I seem to be promoting the 450 marlin BLR
Im not promoting any caliber or action type, simply pointing out what I see rather frequently, used.
blr1z.jpg



one of my close hunting partners for 3 decades carried almost nothing but a pre 1981 BLR in caliber 358 win, he was quite successful,
enough so that I purchased a post 1981 BLR, in caliber 358 win and later one in caliber 450 marlin,
both are very dependable hunting rifles, that Id carry with zero reservations,
as both consistently are fully able to shoot 1.5" 100 yard three shot groups off the bench rest.
and yes the function and triggers improve as they get a bit of wear and you become more familiar with their use.
Browning_BLR.jpg

he constantly referred to my 340 wby as a "damn CANNON"
we were both successful.
Many of the guys that are not lever action fans, buy bolt or pump actions in caliber 35 whelen, the 35 whelen adds about 200 fps to the same bullets the 358 win shoots,
( I doubt any elk or deer knows the difference)several of the guys I hunt elk with think the 7600 35 whelen, is a top choice,
I've used one and I don,t see a damn thing thats in need of improvement if you hunt the ticker timber areas.
Model7600n.jpg


http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=35 Whelen&Weight=All&type=Rifle&Source=

http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=358%20Winchester&Weight=All&type=rifle&Order=Powder&Source=


the Remington 7600 (30/06 and 35 whelen)
and the browning BLR (308 win and 358 win)
I do a great deal of the hand loading for members
I generally use fed 215 primers
all four calibers in both style guns with proper hand loads will usually produce consistent 3 shot groups under 1.5" at 100 yards off a good solid bench rest
powders vary , but WW748 IMR4064 and h380 and H414 are common
both the 35 calibers seem to prefer the speer 250 grain bullets
I think we all find we have favorite rifle action types , personally I like and trust single shot browning falling block rifles like the browning 78 ,in 300 wby,
and the bolt action weatherby mark V ,in 340 wby, and the 375 H&H, bolt action, for most of my hunting,
(you might feel thats excessive, I know I'm in a minority)
I could not pick or would want to even suggest what YOU might prefer,
some guys like blondes some guys prefer brunettes... find what you like best, and what you have fun with, and youll never be wrong.
I've purchased, and used a great many rifle calibers from 6 mm rem to 458 LOTT and a 58 and 62 caliber muzzle loader's
many guys seem to be adversely effected by any significant recoil and many prefer lighter weight rifles, thats fine,
I find lots of the guys I hunt with preferred pump and lever actions
personally I prefer the .338-.45 calibers, they tend to get obviously noticeable results
you can't ignore physics a larger and heavier projectile tends to hit harder,
but its a judgement call on how hard you want to hit the target or what trajectory and recoil limitations your willing to deal with
I've seen several elk killed with a 257 roberts and a couple killed with a 45/70, , most guys seem to find a 308 win, 30/06 or 270 win works well.
power is obviously not as critical as shot placement
if you can accurately use a 300 mag-375 mag the extra power has marginal advantages in a few applications but its rarely if ever going make or break a hunts success.
from what Ive seen having confidence in your choice of rifle and being very familiar with its quirks and characteristics and limitations is the key to success not the action type or caliber or case head stamp.

buttslv.jpg

https://www.speer-ammo.com/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullets/358/358-250-hcsp-bullet

Ive had good accuracy with the 30 cals with the 165 grain

https://www.speer-ammo.com/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullets/308/308-165-sptz-bullet

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-a-good-all-around-elk-mule-deer-rifle.12948/

http://www.shootingtimes.com/ammo/ammunition_st_exforelk_200908/

keep in mind the bullet you select does all the work, and if your hunting an area where ranges tend to be longer than about 250 yards its a good idea to select a projectile with a high ballistic coefficient, (IE lower drag projectiles in the heavier weight for caliber range ,will allow longer range hits with flatter trajectory

http://www.bergerbullets.com/products/hunting-bullets/

https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/#!/
PRODUCTIVE ELK HUNTING COUNTRY IN MY EXPERIENCE, HAS BEEN MOSTLY SIMILAR TO THESE PICTURES POSTED BELOW
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we all tend to learn mostly through personal experience, but most people are willing to have a more experienced mentor,
speed up the learning curve , and thus reduce the time and effort required to learn through trial & error.
the first thing Id suggest anyone considering an elk hunt do is get the states hunting licence requirements and read through them carefully,
once you've decided to apply for a licence and understand the states licencing procedures,
and you fully understand that in many states youll need a plan "b", "C" and "D"
simply because you may not have access or draw the area you prefer to hunt and may be required to both gain "POINTS" ,
an hunt less desirable areas during your first few years.
thus purchase of several areas topo maps and doing your research on each area is a smart route to take.
generally you'll want to hunt with either a friend or two and/or with an outfitter with a long record of happy former returning clientele.
selecting an outfitter will also require doing research and checking references carefully,
in any business theres scam artists, who are thrilled to take you money and not provide any or inferior services,
its your job to do the required research and assume , some references will be less than truthful.
try hard to get references from several previous years and fairly current references,
and ask the previous hunters for any friends,
or fellow hunters phone or e-mail contact numbers.
check with the local police and better business people and any outfitter organizations for complaints before booking a hunt.
every year you'll hear about guys that sent a healthy financial deposit, to some one,
only to find the check cashed and the people cashing it no longer return phone calls.
you'll need to get in better physical condition in almost all cases,
increased altitude will kick your butt at least temporarily ,
I live in Florida at close to sea level, I generally hunt Colorado or Wyoming,
the change in altitude takes several days for your body to adapt ,
you'll want to consult your family doctor before making the trip, and start spending at least a 1/3 hour,
on a tread mill or running stairs, as often as possible for months prior to the trip,
look up altitude sickness, on the internet, in my case every year without fail,
Ive gotten head aches and feel like crap for about 24 hours as my body adjusts to the altitude change
. It helps to drink lots of liquids like hot tea and gator aid, even when you don,t feel thirsty,
and take an aspirin a few times a day during the hunt and get to the hunt area at least two days early,
buy and use lip gloss it helps keep your lips from cracking.
get and use a decent hat with a brim that keeps sun out of your eyes,
get decent ankle support boots with an aggressive tread sole,
protect anything that will be damaged by moisture in double zip lock bags (wallet, MEDS, licences)
if your dealing with an out fitter ask questions about what they suggest and follow the advise ,
bringing a great deal of extra gear, or failing to bring the suggested gear,
is almost always going to piss off any outfitter. the guides are there to assist you, follow their advice,
but they are not going to act as a personal servant
they can,t take your shot for you, they can,t get your out of physical shape butt,
up on some ridge as fast as it might be required
, where youll get that shot of a lifetime, if your so out of shape that breathing at 7000-9000 ft of altitude is a chore,
and after two days of hunting your ready too pack it in, its not the guide or outfitters fault if you don,t score!
and yes your expected to get up early and hunt till dark if you want to be successful ,wither you have a guide or are hunting on a D.I,Y. hunt.
sleep at a few thousand feet lower altitude and take hot showers,
as it helps the body adjust before the hunt, spend the first few days before you hunt,
getting acclimated, Ive found sleeping the first night at lower altitudes like Denver before going higher helps.
yes you need to practice with your rifle shooting from field positions theres no bench rest in the field,
you should be able to use a rifle with a sling and bi-pod too consistently punch holes in a 3" orange dot,
from 100 yards from a sitting or prone position, and at 50 yards off hand.
most guys can shoot bragging size groups off a bench rest,
few of the guys I hunt with, could initially and consistently hit a coke can on a tree stump,
from 100 yards from a rapidly acquired field position,
youll need a day pack to carry personal items like a spare insulated vest, rain poncho, cell phone, skinning knife , personal med;s, licences, toilet articles etc.
if you hunt on a D.I.Y. public land hunt, a GPS, several topo maps game meat processing tools and a pack capable of hauling 60-70 lbs of meat is also advisable.


Over 5 decades there have been several factors that I have and many other people eventually do come to realize have a rather obvious effect on your success, rates.
if you were to compare the modern hunters gear and easy availability to the related tools of the trade to the early mountain men, the current advantages are remarkable.
the availability of knowledge from sources like the RMEF https://www.rmef.org/ and buying a few reference books, and videos, won,t hurt one bit!

and access to video instructive classes , and related hunting related equipment, that are currently available would astound hunters in the pre WWII era.

(1) hunting out of state on a regular consistent year to year basis is and continues to be an expensive hobby,
thats only getting more expensive, over the decades as fees and licence costs, travel related expenses have consistently increased over the years.
too get more out of the experience it helps to do your research on the area you intend to hunt,
and its going to be rather difficult to function in the higher altitudes for most people,
so take the time and effort to get into much better physical condition,
no mater what condition you think your in, the lack of oxygen at higher altitudes will effect you.



(2) the definition of insanity is doing things the same way year after year, getting the same results over and over again,
yet each time expecting to get a totally different result, simple things like keeping in reasonably consistent, month too month contact, all year long,
with the area biologist and game warden, increases your odds significantly. learn the guys name, send him or her a box of a dozen donuts or if its a girl
flowers along with a short request for your preferred hunt area tips.and related knowledge, will generally pay off in increasing your success on trips.
no one person knows everything, about hunting , your game or area, thus taking advantage of the knowledge,
and experience held by many skilled, other people gives you a huge advantage

(3) even a blind squirrel occasionally finds the occasional acorn.
(if your only seeing elk and mule deer occasionally your not taking full advantage of the knowledge available)


(4) your personal attitude, YOUR having dogged ,persistence (having masochistic tendency's)
and taking the effort year around, of your physical conditioning does mater.


(5) if your not consistently successful, year after year you might want to consider looking at your potential options,
and analyze how you might improve. wondering aimlessly is seldom productive ,
learn to use topo maps GPS, and read up on the game, what it eats where it beds etc.

(6) doing your research carefully you will have a significant advantage over joe average,
that simply drives out too the area , parks and starts randomly wondering the area.


(7) having several experienced and previously and consistently successful mentors, ups your odds of success substantially.

(8) you do have lots of current options that modern technology , has given us, that were not nearly as easily accessed in past years,
accurate topo maps,
satellite photos,
accurate and semi reasonably priced, hand held, GPS,
greatly improved optics,
more durable and accurate rifles and ammo,
far better quality thermally efficient and moisture resistant yet breathable clothing
access to local biologist and game department data banks
lazer range finders
infrared vision enhancement.
much improved camping, back packs, sleeping bags,tents and edged weapon quality.


(9) game processing and meat transport, and meat preservation knowledge and your access to it at a reasonable price is currently a huge leap upward, in tech from decades ago.


(10) most guys I have hunted with would initially have struggled a great deal to rapidly and consistently,
drop into a sitting, kneeling or standing position and rapidly place a shot into a 3" orange dot at 100 yards
learning that shooting from field positions, using a sling and a decent bi-pod and frequent practice can improve your chances,
of making an accurate shot by easily 200%-500% , familiarity with shooting accurately from field positions
does vastly improve your odds. shooting skeet improves your odds on hitting a rapidly moving close range deer or elk in the typical aspen/conifer.


(11) the combo of accurate topo maps and a GPS potentially allows you to find natural restrictions too game movement and be in areas that limit the games escape routes,
a smart hunter will use that info to locate, and be at those choke points thus using the tech advantage he has,
and consistently improving his odds of getting a good shot opportunity.

(12)
if your not seeing game where your camped within two days change hunting areas, you've got a limited time,
access to food, water, changes in weather, preferred, altitude and area hunt pressure will effect games location,
elk have zero problem moving miles every day, too find food water cover, or distance themselves from hunting pressure.
unlike whitetail deer they may not be back at your location for weeks, or more, you need to locate the elk in a vast area.
use optics and don,t limit your options be flexible.

(13) use of top quality optics, a good rifle sling and a swivel bi-pod thats tall enough to allow you to comfortably shoot from a sitting position helps a good deal.
I've used one like this for decades, it makes little sense to spend thousands of dollars and dedicate a great deal of effort getting in shape,
then stalking game if you cant rapidly and accurately make a precisely placed shot from a field position into the games vitals, from a reasonable range under most conditions
HB25CS 25C Model S -13.5-27" Swivel Bipod

(14) pick your hunting partners carefully
yes its always a P.I.T.A. if your dealing with some guy who subconsciously feels,hes been lied too!
and that if he spent one or two days wondering aimlessly around, in what he has been told too believe is "elk country"
and when not only him, but everyone else in camp has failed to even see an elk, hes ready to pack it in and go home.
once you've had experience in elk hunting you'll find that ELK can and do cover a lot of terrain, an over night snow that allows you to see,
obviously fresh tracks (even the new guys can now tell fresh from 3-5 day old) tends to help , but if your not seeing elk, change altitude and type of cover,
they will NOT tend to be wondering out in open meadows, and they do require feed, water, cover and vastly prefer low hunter pressure,
thus it generally will require learning to get into less easily reached areas and watching your air flow and odor , and learning to glass and use a topo map.

(15)
buy a few instructional tapes on elk calls, get a cow call and bull call, and learn how to use both,, practice and listen to the tapes, they may not always help you draw in a bull, but they may if properly used raise just enough doubt, in an elk as to what hes hearing move around, near him, to allow you to get just a bit closer for a shot before the elk decides the next drainage seems a healthier option.


(16)

you will need dependable transportation capable of dealing with dirt roads, deep mud, and occasionally deep snow and icy surfaces, something with 4 wheel drive and at least moderate ground clearance, is recommended,your guide may provide this but if your providing the transportation you'll need snow chains decent bumper jacks ,a shovel, a spare tire and detailed area trail maps and regulations

(17)
theres a true old 11th commandment
"thou shall never let those with less experience, skills, & persistence of will,
, limit what you can attempt and ultimately accomplish!"
"IT can,t be done", its the mantra of LOSERS

(18)
larger areas of private land in elk territory, tend to have far lower hunter pressure than adjacent public land, obviously knowing exact property boundary's (you need accurate current maps and GPS, )and if you can gaining legal access to private land has some big advantages , but can be expensive in some areas.



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Full-362-Deep-Creek-Canyon.jpg

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anytime you travel you should have a bare minimal rifle cleaning and basic screw driver/allen key and bore cleaning tool kit
I can,t even remember all the many multiple times having a rifle cleaning kit and a set of screw drivers available to tighten scope mounts or bedding screws,


or having the tools to adjust or tighten a trigger adjustment screw or sling mounts or some other minor problem made a difference in a hunt.

theres some good universal tips in this thread also
https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/whitetail-deer-hunting/418200-florida-whitetail-experience.html

http://www.rmef.org/TheHunt/During/Glassing.aspx

http://soleadventure.com/2013/07/optics-for-western-hunting-binoculars-and-spotting-scopes/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/hunting-binoculars.14300/#post-78145

https://www.gohunt.com/read/optics-what-you-need-for-success-in-the-west

https://www.outdoorlife.com/blogs/live-hunt/2011/07/scouting-tips-how-find-elk-honey-hole-summer

http://www.huntaddicts.com/hunting-advice-tips-tactics/hunting-with-spotting-scopes/

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theres some good universal tips in this thread also
https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/whitetail-deer-hunting/418200-florida-whitetail-experience.html


much of the area looks similar too these pictures I found posted elseware
conft1.jpeg
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conft3.jpg

elkcoun1.png

col1.jpg

just a side note

when I first got into hunting elk , I was about 18 years old, and that was back in about 1968, and I was very lucky,
I had several skilled mentors with decades of experience ,that made the trip out to Colorado every year,
these guys were all in their 40s & -50s and 60s at that time ,they had all been hunting for decades,
all but one of those "old geezers' were using a 760 rem slide action or bolt action 30/06 rifles,
(the sporters based on the 1917 Endfield and mod 70 win were revered,) most of them used 180 grain or 220 grain round nose bullets,
these geezers stressed, the importance of learning to having the skill to drop into a sitting position with proper use of a rifle sling and being consistently able to place shots on a 3" orange dot at 100 yards,
they also explained trajectory, and strongly suggested sighting into hit 3.5" high at 100 yards, so range estimation was not extremely critical.
they also suggested learning to shoot skeet, because hunting in the thick timber might require shooting off-hand at closer ranges.
as that was what too a man they had found to be very effective, so on their advise I purchased and used a 760 rem on my first three hunts.
( could not locate a 1917 Endfield)
those were exciting times and these guys did a great deal to get me up too speed on learning where to look for elk,
how to find them and how to dress out and care for and transport the meat once the deer and elk we shot, were down.
now I read every hunting article and magazine, I could find at the time ,
if your my age you might remember the 7mm mag and 300 win mag both came out in about 1963,all the magazines were full of articles promoting the
pre 1964 winchester bolt guns and lamenting the crappy new Winchesters, the fairly new remington 700 rifles were heavily advertised.
but at about the same time frame the 340 weatherby in the mark V rifle was being heavily promoted
being young I read everything I could find and became convinced, I really needed to spend about 2 months pay and buy a weatherby 340 mag.
It took me over a year to save up and get one.
now looking back, and thinking about the results, the 340 wby worked and continues to work exceptionally well, but every deer or elk I shot,
with my 30/06 was just as dead, and in either case a single well placed shot was lethal.
the difference was that if I hit an elk with a 30/06 , well mostly they looked like they just were startled and ran, a few steps then fell,
hit in a similar location with the 340,wby few ran, most fell or stood as if dazed then slowly collapsed, few ran, while both were lethal, there was an obvious difference in the initial , reaction to a well placed shot.
over the following decades while watching many dozens of guys kill deer and elk,
it became obvious to me that the rifle and caliber ,the guy carried was far less important that the skill and experience of the guy using it.
especially after watching the older guys, and newer members of the group, use everything from a 257 roberts and 6.5mm swedish mauser to a 45/70 and 458 win,
and even rather less popular calibers, for elk and mule deer, like a 44 mag marlin lever action, and 35 rem.
all worked if the guy using it was a good shot!
we have all spent time in rather senseless debates, about what rifle caliber or bullet weight is better, or what rifle design or action type is best.
we all are convinced our choices are the best ones, and everyone else is making a mistake,
after watching guys in our hunt club over decades, its all too obvious too me at least that its not the rifle or cartridge selected as much as the,
skill and experience of the guy who is using it that maters.

I've watched one guys dad who is even older than I am convincingly kill several elk with a 257 Roberts with a single shot each time.
I've come to really like using a 340 wby, 375 H&H, and 450 marlin, I can,t remember needing a second shot in 4 decades,
most of the guys think I'm a bit odd, and most use as they always have, a 308 win, 30/06 or 35 whelen.
a few guys like the 358 win, those are by far the more popular choices.....
Originally I was sure my rifle choices made a huge improvement, and for me it instills 100% confidence.
but it does not seem to make a bit of difference... what does make a difference is attitude and persistence!
If anyone really paid any real attention, its been obvious, for decades,
its the guys who are willing to get their butts up and out of camp, and spend every available minute of daylight out in the field,
the guys who spend off season weekends at the range,
and guys that buy and bring topo maps and aerial photos of the areas we hunt,to camp,
the guys who are willing to keep in decent physical condition,rather than try to get back in shape the week before,
we take the trip out west, that are consistently more successful.
Im certainly not suggesting a 30/30 and a 340 wby have similar power or range,
but in the hands of a skilled hunter, who knows his rifles limitations, and selected it,
and is willing to work with-in that equipment's limitations,
either choice, works well.
read these related threads
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hat-are-you-looking-for-in-an-elk-rifle.2368/

http://www.shootingtimes.com/ammo/ammunition_st_exforelk_200908/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hooting-from-field-positions.9380/#post-55569

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...id-a-concern-when-selecting-your-rifle.12782/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-340-wheatherby-and-375-h-h.12979/#post-67520

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ting-a-decent-hunting-scope.13506/#post-69949

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...t-mass-and-caliber-how-much-is-required.4607/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rifle-choice-if-starting-over.6505/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-good-light-weight-elk-rifle.3738/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ange-calibers-for-elk-are-not-mandatory.1275/
 
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http://www.gundigest.com/guns/three-dozen-elk-cartridges-taught

http://guide.sportsmansguide.com/tips/best-elk-cartridges/

https://elknetwork.com/5days/?utm_medium=notification&utm_source=popup

https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2010/8/30/enough-gun-elk-cartridges/

http://www.chuckhawks.com/elk_cartridges.htm

http://www.outdoorlife.com/photos/g...les-best-elk-rifles-elk-guns-elk-hunting-guns

http://www.offthegridnews.com/survival-hunting/the-4-very-best-calibers-for-hunting-big-game/

https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2014/7/8/top-five-all-around-sporting-cartridges/




yeah, I,ve often wondered if elk being a reasonably large,400-800 plus lb animal had a tendency,
if wounded,,too stomp and gore hunters like a cape buffalo ,or claw and bite like a Kodiak bear,
if we would see what I consider rather un-realistically light caliber rifles being used on elk.
I know a few guys in my hunt club think theres nothing unsporting or unethical in using a 24-25 caliber rifle,
on elk, I know of a few cases where several follow -up shots were required,
now obviously bullet selection shot placement and hunter skill plays a huge part here, not just the cartridge used....
but still I think if the hunter could reasonably be expected to be at serious risk if he failed to deliver a first shot stop mortal wound,
we might see a shift to larger bores and a bit more power in respect to the consequences of failing to deliver a rapidly lethal wound
 
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http://www.chuckhawks.com/compared_elk_rifles_field.htm

http://www.outdoorlife.com/photos/g...t-elk-rifles-elk-guns-elk-hunting-guns#page-7

http://www.jimzumbo.com/explore-jim-s-blog/entry/2016/02/is-there-a-perfect-elk-rifle

http://www.liveoutdoors.com/hunting/108960-best-elk-rifles/#/slide/1

http://www.gundigest.com/guns/three-dozen-elk-cartridges-taught

you can read several dozen similar links and theres a good many opinions , but the rather common thread running through most of them is that you carry an elk rifle over a whole lot of typically difficult and steep terrain,so having a reasonably light weight and short and easy to handle (carbine) rifle has some advantages. and you might only get one or two shots at game a season and they damn well better be effective, and you need confidence in both your ability to hit where you aim and the results you can expect from a well placed hit!
naturally you need to be in good physical shape personally and have the skill to use the rifle quickly when the opertunity arrives.
everyone makes a compromise in several areas when sellecting an elk rifle and cartridge, combo, but I can tell you that over decades the 35 whelen, and 358 win cartridges and the remington 7600 pump and browning BLR both have srtrong support in the group of hunters I hunt with.
thats not saying my 375 H&H, and 340 wby mag caliber rifles have not been very successful ,nor has anyone found various 30/06,308 win, 450 marlin,or 45/70 rifles lacking in any way.
over 4 decades I think it was use of, or lack of ,quality optics and scope mounts that had a bigger effect on results than the head stamp on any cartridge used.
and certainly factors many guys ignored like having decent quality boots with good traction, or a sling and comfortable back pack too pack out meat, certainly effected hunts.
IVE never yet had a properly installed weaver style base and rings fail, loc-tite on clean de-greased, and properly tightened, screw threads helps
266loc.JPG


a 150/400 watt gun makes soldering much easier

walnlg400c.jpg

BTW red loc-tite is a thermally sensitive bonding agent,
if you need to remove scope mount screws, or any screw locked in place with this thread binding agent, that were locked in place with red loc-tite simply hold a high wattage soldering iron firmly against the screw head for at least 2 minutes before you try to remove it, this allows heat to travel through the screw and melt the bonding plastic based locking agent
stop and think a bit about both your rifle and cartridge selection and what type of terrain and the likely ranges and the game you may be hunting,
If your sneaking through heavy timber and hunting elk where your very unlikely to get a shot at over 70-100 yards, but might have less than 3-4 seconds to take a shot, something like a browning BLR in a cartridge like 358 win or 450 marlin, or a BAR semi-auto in 30/06-300 win or 338 mag, with a 2x-7x scope or 4x scope makes a damn good combo,you,ll be carrying that rifle and covering a lot of terrain, but a rapid shot at closer ranges is common.
if your hunting mule deer in sage brush and oak flats a 270 win or 7mm mag , 300 mag in a bolt action, single shot, falling block, with a bi-pod rest, might suit your needs well
you might need long range accuracy and speed of acquiring a target or making a second shot, will be less critical, a scope with a 3x -9x- or-4x-12x with a 50mm lenses may make perfect sense
 
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I got asked if I was using a 300 win mag , if I would select a 150 grain bullet for its flat trajectory and high velocity, or something a bit heavier, and the questioner admitted he was thinking primarily,
about hunting mule deer and elk, and he doubted he would ever take a shot exceeding 300 yards.
most of us have read through dozens of threads concerning the best rifle, cartridge or bullet selection, most people try to promote or defend their personal favorite's
few people stop to look at things from the view point of using ballistics and related math or bother to think through realistically the ranges the effect on game, their choices will have.
most people fail to realize that most game is not that hard to kill given good shot placement and a knowledge of the games anatomy, nor do they consider the fact that far more game,
is killed at well under 250 yards than at greater ranges.
theres not a game animal in north America that a 270 win or a 30/06 won,t kill with a single well placed shot, if a fairly heavy well designed bullet is used by a rifleman familiar with the games anatomy.
that does not necessarily suggest they are ideal, universal choices, simply because their effective use is dependent on getting the ideal or close to ideal shot angles to allow the vitals to be penetrated and destroyed.
those of us with extensive experience generally tend to have seen enough game shot to appreciate the fact that heavier for bore size projectiles do tend to penetrate deeper.
theres not a deer or elk on the planet that could survive a well placed shot from a 165-210 grain 30 caliber bullet from a 300 mag from a broad side , heart/lung impact.
but if your only shots a raking angle through a ham,
through the gut and into the heart/lung, vitals its going to require extremely good penetration, and increased inertial mass, and a thick jacket allow that.
theres a good reason many country's suggest a minimum caliber for large game, larger bore mandate more massive projectiles,
and the increased mass and resulting retained inertia energy insure a bit more penetration, on impact.
most hunters are not as good of shots as they imagine themselves to be under field conditions. you can make a good deal of money betting the average guy can,t hit a coke can at 150 yards on his first shot,
shooting off hand or even sitting, and theres no bench rests in the field ,, those tight 1" 100 yard groups shot from a bench rest are meaningless ,now add a shot of Adrenalin,
when that hunter has seen an exceptional trophy, and hes breathing hard from walking over rolling terrain , and its a damn near sure bet,
he won,t hit within 3 inches of his intended point of impact.
Given the true conditions, and you have no control over the shot angle,
and that game will tend to run away from a threat,leaving you with a less than ideal shot angle,
it's frequently an advantage to select a slightly heavier 180 grain-210 grain projectile weight in a 300 mag

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/6...in-hollow-point-flat-base-lead-free-box-of-50

https://www.hornady.com/bullets/eld-x#!/

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...meter-200-grain-bonded-semi-spitzer-box-of-50

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ange-calibers-for-elk-are-not-mandatory.1275/
 
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BTW, one of the guys I hunted with for decades used a 7mm rem mag , he used various bullet weights from 150-175 and was not all that thrilled with the rifles power or his results,
he was rather convinced the rifle lacked knock down power (it certainly did not lack power or accuracy)
as he has consistently shot 1" 100 yard groups with almost all his hand loads off the bench rest, at 100 yards,
but for about 6 years even having several opportunities on hunts to shoot elk,
he would make a shot , while hunting, and the elk or mule deer would run off,

we would spend an hour or so looking for evidence of a hit and come up empty.
he was convinced he was a great shot,but I never once saw him practice shooting anyplace but on the bench.
well, one year after missing a standing elk at only 200 yards ,with several of us watching,
he became convinced his scope must have shifted zero.
I had a few orange sticky dots in the truck, and a sheet of cardboard we leaned up against a steep hillside,
we backed off 200 yards to duplicate the distance, and he tried several shots.....he totally missed the cardboard backer, that was about 18" square,
convincing him the scope zero had changed, but before he started changing the scope adjustment,
I suggested another hunter in our group try a couple shots......both shots impacted about where we had sighted in the rifle,
about 1" high at that range, I then tried 2 shots, and my bullets impacted well inside of 3-4 inchs of the orange dot also.
I suggested he try a couple more shots, (but purposelessly made sure the chamber was empty)
the reason he missed, was obvious to everyone, he had a flinch you would think he developed from using a 458 mag!
he always used a 25 lb bag of lead shot behind the rifle butt on the bench, but subconsciously , he knew that without the bag the rifles recoil was much more noticeable
no it was not abusive, but he still flinched like it was a 458 win with a solid steel butt plate,
it took months for him to admit he needed practice and once he found he could use a PAST recoil pad in a shooting vest
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/699899/past-super-mag-plus-recoil-pad-shield-ambidextrous?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Shooting+-+Range+Accessories&utm_content=699899&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Shooting+-+Range+Accessories-_-PAST-_-699899&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5ar567HK3QIVhD1pCh3k7QZEEAQYAyABEgIWL_D_BwE
his field accuracy greatly improved




making a shot also varies a great deal with conditions terrain and lighting,
while I practice out too 500 yards every chance I get, I vastly prefer taking shots while sitting and use of a bi-pod and sling,
most Of the elk and deer I've shot were taken at ranges under 300 yards, simply because the areas I hunt,
tend to be thicker aspen and conifer and rather steep narrow canyons
leaning on a tree, trunk, or over a blow down,
and / or use of that bi-pod and sling with the rifle,are very common, in my experience.
if you walk one slope of some canyon watching the far slope your potential shot ranges rarely exceed 300 yards due to terrain limitations.
that and the fact you can,t see due to the aspen and conifer growth and elk not being stupid enough to wonder out into open areas during the daylight

pictures like these are much more common in my experience than open fields you occasionally see in magazines of elk pictures posted
deepcreek.JPG


aspens1.png

Full-362-Deep-Creek-Canyon.jpg

elkcoun1.png


thickt1.jpg

thickt8.jpg

thick3.jpg

thickt4.jpg


yes, its always rather puzzled me that many guys want to carry a 4-6 lb rifle and chamber it in a cartridge that limits recoil significantly ,
yet they ignore physics and don,t grasp the concept that .
you can easily calculate both the cartridge recoil potential and down range retained energy.
a rifle is a tool, you should select the best tool for the job at hand, not the select the smaller and easy to carry tool ,
that may not get the job done when its used.

recoil
http://www.shooterscalculator.com/recoil-calculator.php

http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmrecoil-5.1.cgi

trajectory
http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi

https://www.hornady.com/team-hornady/ballistic-calculators/#!/

theres no free lunch! but you can significantly reduce felt recoil
use of a PAST recoil shoulder pad , a rifle stock recoil pad, and proper use of a sling and bi-pod , and high quality optics ,goes a long way toward reducing the potential problem.
use of a properly designed muzzle brake, butt stock recoil pad, shooting pad sewn into the shoulder of your vest or parka a decent sling and a bi-pod all help both accuracy and reduce felt recoil.
and one factor that can,t be ignored is the need for rather consistent & repetitive practice from field positions

if you only pick that rifle out of your gun safe the weekend before the season opens you can reasonably expect your skill and familiarity to be rather pathetic,
compared to a guy that visits the local range at least every 30-45 days during the year.
use the calculators but keep in mind most game is shot at well under 300 yards so you don,t require a fire breathing magnum,
what you do require is consistent repetitive accuracy of shot placement and a knowledge of the games anatomy,
and your being in the physical condition to be in the right location at the correct time to make use of any opportunity you get.
,
sitting.jpg

sittingk.jpg

736676013029__13713.1575695653.jpg


if you want a low recoil light weight rifle a ruger #1 single shot in a caliber like 270 win makes a great deer / elk rifle in skilled hands
094-310010.jpg

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/i ... 0094310010
recoilpd.png

Weatherby340ma.jpg

  • 41%2BiN4CEA6L.jpg


HB25CS 25C Model S -13.5-27" Swivel Bipod
no thats not my rifle but its damn near its clone
 
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He is not a trained shooter and is afraid of high caliber rifles or to old/soft shouldered to shoot such. They say --practice makes perfect--I say perfect practice makes perfect-- and you can't be afraid of what you are shooting or you will always miss.
 
hunters as a group have a wide and varied potential selection of weapons, and calibers in rifles too check out,
I think most of us spend far too much effort debating minor inconsequential differences. and we all find a personal favorite,
its rather rare, for joe average, too select a rifle or caliber that , is not going to function at a basic level,and kill anything thats hit well.
a bit like selecting a wife, theres basic and enhanced versions, some are far more expensive ,durable and tolerant than others,
but most guys will if its carefully checked out before the purchase, find they function as you might expect.
when I started hunting back in the mid 1960s 7mm and 30 cal, magnums were all the rage, in the magazines.
most of the guys I hunted with tried them, .....some guys liked them,..... most went back to using the 270 win,30/06 and similar rifles their dads had used.
for decades I generally kept a remington 760 or a savage bolt action, 30/06,or marlin 45/70 in camp as a loaner rifle,
I doubt the results would change in any way if the rifles were 25/06 or 7mm mausers.
guys would use it if they damaged their rifles or scopes, those rifles collected an impressive list of game over decades
guys using them used the matching ammo available, with those rifles, they worked even in the hands of guys barely familiar with how they functioned,
\ or their trajectory, mostly because, most game is shot at well under 150 yards,
and most game,(even elk) won,t go far with a shot through the heart/lung area,
from a rifle that punches deep into the vitals.
I always have to smile a bit when I see these threads, if your asked to make a suggestion, regarding selection of any type of equipment,
its mandatory that the person asking for advise, provide the rather more experienced person(s) he is asking with ALL the perimeters and legal limitations,based
on the area and terrain being hunted, the game, being hunted, and likely range limitations.
obviously if the area your hunting is limited to a shot gun, or strait wall cartridge or if theres game department caliber or muzzle energy limits, caliber minimums etc.
those limits must be stated for the advise to be a reasonable match to the intended usage, and area.
most of us have several favorites in rifles and calibers, or your recoil tolerance,
but I could no more select the rifle and caliber that best matches your anticipated needs best,
than I could anticipate your , choice in a wife.
yes there are dozens of well, proven combos, most are fully functional in most areas, under most common conditions and ranges.
and its the skill and confidence and experience of the guy using the rifle that tends to mater more than the rifle or caliber selected, in many cases.
I hunted with many guys than own and hunt with several different rifles, and two guys Ive hunted with for decades have stuck with two rather different rifles
(a 358 win BLR and a single shot ruger #1 in 270 win) both have long records of successful hunts
 
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Weatherby340ma.jpg

no thats not my rifle but its damn near its clone
how many of you gentlemen have and use a bi-pod on your rifle?
Ive used the 13.5" /27" swivel bi-pod for decades on my 340 wby synthetic bolt action, rifle.
the bi-pod allows you to have a steady rifle rest shot from both a prone or seated position,
now I'm sure I'm in the minority and many guys will object to the added weight , but I've learned to hunt by glassing and covering a great deal of ground slowly,
the key here is in carefully selecting the areas hunted and not randomly wandering aimlessly.
you want to study topographical maps carefully, and have experience, you can look over the options, get into productive areas well before other hunters and set up, before first light, allowing you to benefit from the influx p o hunter pressure as they move through the are disrupting game movement, and increase your odds of success by hunting ,
natural travel routes and terrain choke points, and not wasting time glassing the areas with lots off easy road access.
elk and deer learn very quickly that travel, during daylight, near logging roads with vehicle travel access , is not safe.
if you set up to glass for game on a natural game travel choke point , like a narrow side canyon, that has a creek and cover youll up your odds significantly.
having a bi-pod on your rifle and a good familiarity with your rifles trajectory sure helps.
  • 41%2BiN4CEA6L.jpg
Click image to open expanded view
seatshot1.jpg

HB25CS 25C Model S -13.5-27" Swivel Bipod
by Harris Engineering
 
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Grumpy this year I used my Tikka 25.06 in deer season and shot a nice big horned 7 point buck I used a Hornaday 117 grain interlock bullet at around 80 to 100 yards its the first deer that I've ever shot that dropped on the spot.
Now I've had good hits on a good many deer in what I thought was the sweet spot with bigger calibers and much heavier loads 300 mag 180 gr. 30.06 180 gr. and other different loads from a 308 , 7mm Mag , 7mm.08 , 30.30 and they all dropped in a short distance but not instantly so I had to hit this one pretty close to perfect because this was the smallest caliber and the lightest load I ever used and the deer that went the furthest was hit with the most powerful gun 300 Win Mag and the heaviest load 180 gr. so another vote for shot placement
 
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yes proper shot placement is critical, but many people fail to grasp the two concepts of hydro-static,
shock,that results from a fast expanding projectile, that shocks the games nervous system,
as the energy rapidly almost instantly expands , like a balloon full of liquid expanding,
and the need for deep penetration, are both very desirable, but these properties are somewhat counter intuitive ,
in that a fast expanding high velocity bullet tends to have more limited penetration ,
and a deep penetrating projectile tends to expand slowly. you need a balance in the two properties,
but both the game your shootings size, a knowledge of that games internal anatomy and the projectiles impact velocity
effect the resulting damage.
deer being rather fragile internally, do not require near the penetration that something like an elk does.


WhitetailDeerAnatomyCirculatory2.jpg

drAnatomy.png

Ive had excellent results with a 25/06 using 100 grain speer bullets
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=25-06 Remington&Weight=100&type=rifle&Order=Powder&Source=
try 53 grains of imr 4831

https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullet/1405


http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=270 Winchester&Weight=150&type=rifle&Order=Powder&Source=
try 55 grains of imr 4831 but work up slowly thats near max
and 270 win using speer 150 grain,

https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullet/1605

these are both proven on deer but not ideal for elk, for elk a slower expanding and deeper penetrating projectile is generally preferred, because you can,t always get the ideal shot angles
theres always been a trade off in the rifles weight,(ease of carrying )
velocity, (flat trajectory , or reach,)
its impact power,(weight and diameter of the projectile )
and as a result of the choices made , its recoil.
theres plenty of evidence that a small properly placed projectile can produce a lethal wound,
theres also a good deal of physics that say a larger mass projectile moving at reasonable velocity ,
can produce a deeper and larger diameter wound, the trade off is increased recoil.
you can,t dispute simple physics, a larger mass at a similar velocity hits a harder blow on impact.
(and generally induces more recoil on the shooters shoulder.)
and once the projectile from your rifle of choice,
can from any reasonable range or angle produce a lethal wound, on the game hunted,
and the trajectory over the vast majority of the ranges your likely to be confronted with allows easy shot placement,
theres no reason to select something with more velocity or a heavier projectile.
the projectile does all the work on impact and the technology, of bullet design, has improved in recent decades
https://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmrecoil-5.1.cgi
your ability to tolerate recoil generally will vary with the rifles stock design,
use of a sling and recoil pad, muzzle brake ,and it varies with your position you shoot from, your body size,
total experience and training to some extent.
having confidence in your choice is a significant factor in your ability to successfully hunt.
Ive seen a 257 Roberts drop elk rather quickly at about 150-to-180 yards a couple times, moved less than 30-40 yards
Ive seen an elk act like a shot from a 7mm mag was marginal, as it ran over 80 yards with a lung/liver destroyed,
yet the next two shot with the same rifle dropped inside a few steps.
being a bit pragmatic I watch what other people used and see the results they have gotten.
Ive consistently seen good results from a 358 win with a 250 grain bullet and a 340 wby with a 250 grain bullet,
Ive seen a 270 win with a 150 grain bullet and a 30/06 with a 200 grain bullet year after year produce one shot kills,
it eventually became obvious to me that there was some advantage in the heavier projectiles,
the game, well hit in the vitals, was much more likely to drop in a few steps
but damn near any rifle in skilled hands would work.
Id also point out, to be fair, that in over 50 years of hunting,
Ive rarely shot game or seen game shot at ranges exceeding about 250 yards.
what a concept.. using logic and facts to select a rifle
mentally step back and ask yourself ,

its the last day of the season, the biggest deer or elk you've ever seen is about to run,
over a ridge hes currently standing on,and it getting dark rapidly,
your only option is a raking shot angle,
whats the longest range, worst shot angle, your likely to ever be faced with,
will the rifle you carry easily allow you to drop game under that set of conditions?

if your one shot will be the only chance you get to fill your tag with the largest deer or elk youll ever see...
would you rather have a different rifle in your hands?
now realistically thats very likely to be at a range under 300 yards.
you'll have less than 6-10 seconds to make that shot, from a hasty field position,
and you will not have an ideal angle,
you may need to bust a lot of bone or punch a raking angle shot,
through a few feet or rump & guts to destroy the vitals.
if your smart you select a rifle and cartridge thats up to tackling the shot ,
under the most adverse conditions, not the ideal conditions
a 7.5 barrel 357 mag revolver loaded with a 158 grain soft point, will kill any deer or elk at 30 yards in skilled hands
a 243 with a premium 100 grain bullet is certainly lethal in skilled hand under close to ideal conditions
but what do you want if your only chance is about to disappear off that ridge at 300 yards, and his rump is almost 3/4 facing you as hes walking off that ridge crest?
personally I want a 270 win or 308 win as a minimum, and would be far happier with a 35 whelen, or 338 win.

I was at the local outdoor range rather briefly to check the zero on one of my rifles,
when the guy on the next bench started a conversation.
he was very sure to announce that he had purchased one of the newer short case 7mm magnums
he almost immediately wanted to discuss what he considered to be the best possible rifle and cartridge combo ,...
he was not having much luck setting his rifle zero
now if you've read many of my previous posts,
I've used about everything from a 44 mag marlin and a 357 mag revolver to a 458 lott on deer,
and I've seen elk consistently killed with a 257 Roberts and a 45/70 and most of the cartridges between the two.
there are no really bad 7mm magnum cartridges so if he learns to shoot consistently well he will be well armed.
and in my opinion, its much more important that the guy operating the rifle , know the games anatomy,
and fully understand the particular rifle or handguns strengths and limitations than the head stamp on the brass.
so I ask him to point out both what he expected the rifle to do,too the game being hunted,
and the conditions and ranges he expected it to function under, and pointed out that his selection should be fully capable,
of working under less than ideal ranges, shot angles on game and be reasonably accurate to the longest range he was likely to see or hunt game.
now theres thousands of articles written about the "best deer rifle" or "best elk rifle" every year.
news flash, theres hundreds of fully functional cartridge and rifle combos and there have been some available for over 100 years,
(30/06, 375 H&H,30/40 krag 6.5 mm swed,, 7mm mauser, 405 win, 8mm mauser, 45/70 come instantly to mind)
if you read all the articles you would be sure to think, that only the newest and fastest, and flattest trajectory firearm would be up to the task.
funny how a 30/40 krag was used to kill one of the largest elk ever taken
https://throughahunterseyes.com/the-...c-proportions/
yes the rifle and cartridge matters, but its the skill , experience and knowledge of the guy holding it that matters far more
theres hundreds of thousands of good rifles and cartridges combos, but theres fewer really skilled hunters.
learn to use what you selected very well , to place accurate shots from field positions, and your odds of success skyrocket
 
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one of the guys I hunt with has decided his life will not be complete until he finds a deal on a stainless steel ,
preferably synthetic stocked but laminated wood is ok, rifle in at least a 30 caliber, but something ,
a bit larger in caliber and power than a 308 win, preferred, to hunt mule deer and elk with,
a quick check shows hes got a reasonable selection, especially if you can find discontinued versions.
now theres a wide selection, but obviously everyones got a bit of a different taste and needs in a rifle.


https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/pro...-stock-matte-stainless-finish-747115431212.do

https://www.mossberg.com/mossberg-patriot-rifles-now-available-with-cerakote-stainless-metal-finish/

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Tik...Rifle-ndash-Stainless-Steel-Black/2313225.uts

https://www.sako.fi/rifles/sako-85/85-synthetic-stainless

https://www.browning.com/products/f...htweight-pistol-grip-stainless-laminated.html

https://www.browning.com/products/f...rent-production/x-bolt-stainless-stalker.html

https://www.savagearms.com/firearms/centerfire/model-110/110-brush-hunter

https://www.savagearms.com/firearms/centerfire/trophy/16-trophy-hunter-xp

https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-700/model-700-sps-stainless

https://nagelsguns.net/product/winc...stock-stainless-fluted-barrel-22-0-535206228/

Ive carried a dozen different rifles, and several calibers over the last 50 years,for hunting elk and mule deer and white tail deer,
everything from a ruger single shot 270 win, and browning BLR in caliber 257 roberts to a remington 700 in 458 win mag,
I favored my weatherby fiber-mark synthetic stainless 340 mag. and SAKO 375 H&H more than anything else.
my late hunting partner carried a browning BLR in caliber 358 win,
he spent a good deal of time kidding me and calling most of my rifles (##$$%% CANNONS)
and he never felt any urge too change.
the open secret is that they ALL worked just fine,
having confidence in what you carry, and being proficient in its use,
is far more important than the caliber you select,
I was just as successful with 270 win as the larger calibers,
and you certainly don,t need more power than a 270 win provides

but I always had more confidence in the 33-45 caliber rifles

458win2.jpg

458 win mag
5107a.jpg

Weatherby340ma.jpg



Browning_BLR.jpg

450 marlin

Model7600n.jpg

35 whelen

sako375man.jpg
 
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theres lots of links to options posted above and theres obliviously lots of options that were not listed
Id suggest you decide what features or characteristics and types of actions, barrel lengths, rifle weight,
and calibers you find attractive, and yes price also comes to bear here.
theres certainly several good options.
, Ive had zero problems using a 270 on deer Ive used it on,
and its certainly been working well for decades,
for one of my hunting partners, who has used it in a ruger #1 for over 45 years.
ruger1.jpg

heres some of the better options in my opinion
yes I'm in a small minority,
but ID suggest a stainless steel synthetic stock ,TIKKA or WEATHERBY
any caliber from 30/06, 300 wby, 375 H&H or 340 wby caliber,
both the mark V as close too ideal.
I like the looks feel and fast less than 90 degree bolt lift,
either choice should last a lifetime of hunting.

theres nothing wrong with remington, winchester ,sako, or savage
make the choice that best matches your idea of ideal.

while I fully agree a 243 win in the hands of a decent shot,
when properly used with the correct ammo is very lethal and effective on deer are reasonable ranges
(300 yards or so) I don,t think the better magnums are "over rated"
use a tool matching the intended job. magnums do have a valid place.
theres a very noticeable difference in my experience, in
the games initial reaction and in many cases, distance traveled once hit.
if your dealing with deer size game I prefer the 25/06-270 win class of cartridges.
yes hundreds of people kill elk every year with a 243 win, that does not make it ideal
each of us has different experiences, and I have decades of field time that make me more comfortable using a 340 wby or 375 H&H
on larger game like elk, especially if the potential range may exceed 300 yards,and shot angles tend to be less than ideal.
yes recoil is an issue some people don,t handle well, but personally its a non-issue at that level, and I've seen,
a noticeable and demonstrable advantage, in reach and penetration,
yes Ive used the same rifle calibers on mule deer, I've yet to see a deer shrug off a well placed hit from either rifle


I get that question frequently, about why are you carrying a heavy rifle,
especially when they see some old geezer miles from road access carrying a heavy rifle,
I regularly hunt with a 340 wby and a 375 H&H rifle
Weatherby340ma.jpg

5107a.jpg

you don,t need to be young...just set in your ways, stubborn, very confident in your rifle,and not in any particular rush too cover a great deal of ground.
Im 71, and while I may not be in the same physical shape I was when I was 20-50, having gained considerable experience , you learn to be observant,
you learn to hunt more productive areas, and waste less time trying to constantly get over that far ridge-line,

you spend more time reading topo maps , studying aerial photos and sitting in terrain choke points that naturally funnel game into a restricted location.
yeah, I may not cover nearly the same distances, but Ive gotten consistently more effective and if carrying a rifle that weights 9-10 lbs vs 7-8 lbs,

keeps you from hunting some canyon, what are you going to do with 350-700 lbs of elk down in some remote canyon.

Full-362-Deep-Creek-Canyon.jpg

153.jpg





https://www.cabelas.com/product/tik...rifle-ndash-stainless-steel-black/2313225.uts


https://www.cabelas.com/product/Weatherby-Mark-V-Stainless-Synthetic-Wby-Mag/2732127.uts

http://weatherbynation.com/index.php?topic=13454.0

https://www.cheaperthandirt.com/pro...-stock-matte-stainless-finish-747115431212.do

https://www.sako.fi/sites/default/files/Sako_Rifles_2019.pdf

https://www.savagearms.com/firearms/centerfire/trophy/16-trophy-hunter-xp

https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-700/model-700-sps-stainless
 
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I second the Tikka choice and would drop the Remington for now or maybe an older Remington because right now they are putting out less than quality equipment if I found a Remington I would be very careful of when it was made
 
yeah Remington bought marlin, firearms, Remington,management, then, fired a lot of the ,
marlin plants highly skilled personnel,
and ever since the marlin rifle quality, has been generating ,
a whole lot of complains from purchasers,
due to the significantly lower quality obvious to new owners, of the rem-lins...
old marlins are currently seen as far higher quality,
and thus now bring a premium price.
thats a damn shame as marlin lever actions were at one time
(for many decades) very well made and accurate rifles.
 
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I always liked the older Marlins and Remington's its a shame what I hear that they are putting out now
 
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