measuring for a new drive shaft

grumpyvette

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http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/how_to_measure.html

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/how_to_measure.html

http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/how_to ... _shaft.htm

http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/how_to ... _shaft.htm

http://www.actionmachineinc.com/onepiec ... guide.aspx

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p461_3r_series_u

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c130_un ... oints.html

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p766_st ... shaft.html

U-JOINT%20DIMENSIONS.jpg

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be aware there are different spline counts, and adapter u-joints so talk to the guys fabricating your new drive shaft and give them all the info they need.
your car might require new yokes and u-joints, made from far stronger steel alloys, so ask if theres upgrades or larger sizes available, theres no sense having a drive shaft custom built and balanced that might need to be replaced or upgraded, get the cost of the original to cover the process, so you don,t need to do it twice
 
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I looked at that post , read it, and my first reaction was
" why would anyone have a drive shaft made thats less than 3" in diameter"
I,m not saying it won,t work just fine, in your application, I guess its just , a semi subconscious reaction after decades , or years of ordering custom built 3" and 3.5" chrome moly drive shafts drive shafts, because Ive seen the smaller diameter ones, and many aluminum one twisted like pretzels!
danaq2.jpg

Ive generally ordered 3.5" chrome moly drive shafts on serious big block cars with dana differentials with the matching larger u-joints & chrome moly yokes
 

You have to remember when the car was first built in 1980, I was going to college
and I used what was available and free. Until the recent engine, it had a stock 350
with a very mild camshaft upgrade only. I had the driveshaft u-joints replaced and
had it balanced way before I was on track to building a nearly $7000 engine with way more HP.

The driveshaft has two diameters, but I used the smaller for the calculation above.
Actually about 1/3 of the driveshaft is 3 inches and the other 2/3 is 2.75 inches.

Which begs the question ..... does it matter which end is facing the transmission?



 

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grumpy how long can my drive shaft be before I have strength issues?

http://www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.php
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c976_combination_universal_joints.html
http://pstds.com/critical-speed-chart/

http://www.wolferacecraft.com/pinionangle.aspx

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nsion-related-links-and-info.1025/#post-67816

pinion_angle_transmission_anle.PNG

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...asuring-for-a-new-drive-shaft.478/#post-67321

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/trans-slip-yoke-problem.8765/#post-53682

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/u-joints-don-t-fit.10301/#post-41818

once the drive shafts clean , re-assembled, and de-greased and dry,
a light coat of rust resistant paint, on the drive shaft,
rather than installing it bare metal, is a great Idea.
its also a good idea to use tape to paint three straight parallel lines,
the length of the drive shaft at 120 degrees spacing,
this allows you to instantly see if the engine torque,
and impact loads are twisting the drive shaft over time.

well, before it becomes an obvious issue
29741d1113159486-twisted-stock-driveshaft-half-pics-driveshaft2a.jpg


dsha1.png

dsha2.png

speed-chart.jpg


https://www.harborfreight.com/angle-finder-94963.html

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https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html
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http://azdriveshaft.com/
You'll need to consider the materials its made from,
the diameter of the drive shaft tube,
and the torque loads its expected to handle, and rpms it will need too transmit as it turns
, naturally as both torque, loads, and rpms increase the strength,
of the materials and yoke and bearing size and resulting cost to build it from quality materials,increases.
As you will see looking over the chart below,a 44"-60" increase in length , results in a very large reduction in the recommended rpm range, as the length increased,and its a big mistake to assume youll get by with inferior materials or workmanship or without having the drive shaft properly balanced.
youll see few performance cars with two piece drice shafts but at times its required.
heres a bit of related info below


Driveshaft Tech and FAQ

Operating Angle
Operating angles in a driveshaft are the angles between the pinion, driveshaft and transmission centerlines. The optimal angle for any driveshaft to run at is 1/2 degree, where many vibrational and frictional problems are non-existent. In order to minimize power loss and vibration in an offset configuration, the pinion centerline and the transmission centerline need to be parallel. In general, the largest angle for racing applications should 2 degrees and the centerlines should be parallel within 1/2 degree. With suspension movement the operating angle will increase, but should not exceed 15 degrees. If the centerlines are off too far, the u-joints travel at uneven operating velocities, causing vibration (this is the same problem induced by poorly phased end yokes). This vibration is hard to distinguish from an unbalanced driveshaft.

shaftangle.jpg


Critical Speed
Critical speed is the speed at which a spinning shaft will become unstable. This is one of the single largest factors in driveshaft selection. When the whirling frequency and the natural frequency coincide, any vibrations will be multiplied. So much that the shaft may self destruct. Another way to think of this is that if a shaft naturally vibrates at 130 times a second, and one point on the shaft passes through 0 degrees 130 times a second (7800 RPM) then the shaft has hit a critical speed. There are several ways to raise the critical speed of a driveshaft. You can make it lighter, stiffer, or increase diameter without increasing weight. This is the reason carbon fiber makes a good driveshaft, it is stiff and light and can be made to any diameter or wall thickness. Aluminum, while it has a very good critical speed is not quite as strong as steel. Steel, with good strength characteristics will have a lower critical speed.

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C3/C4 Corvette Driveshaft U-Joint:
gtr1999 said:
1310 & 1330 driveshaft joints were used. The 1310 were on the C2's into early C3. By '70 the BB and automatics used the 1330 and the base SB with 4 speed stayed with the 1310 until about 74 then all were 1330.
pinion_angle_transmission_anle.PNG

1350 was never an option but can be used. I have one on my son's 75. The fit is tight and you will have to do some console 'glasswork, not a lot but it will hit.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...n-do-you-check-and-or-replace-u-joints.12226/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-u1700t/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-u1699/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-u1702/overview/
  • Greaseable Units, Zerks Included
  • Includes Snap Rings
  • Fits 1968-1974 C3 Corvette w/4-Speed Transmission - Driveshaft Front and Rear Positions
  • Fits 1980-1981 C3 Corvette w/Automatic Transmission - Driveshaft Front and Rear Positions
  • Fits 1980-1981 C3 Corvette w/4-Speed Transmission - Driveshaft Rear Position Only
  • Fits 1982 C3 Corvette - Driveshaft Front and Rear Positions
  • Fits 1984-1996 C4 Corvette - Driveshaft Front and Rear Positions
C3/C4 Corvette Axle Shaft U-Joints:
  • Greasable Units, Zerks Included
  • Includes Snap Rings
  • Fits 1968-1979 C3 Corvette Axle Shaft
  • Fits 1980-1981 C3 Corvette w/4-Speed Transmission Axle Shaft
  • Fits 1982 C3 Corvette Axle Shaft
  • Fits 1984-1996 C4 Corvette Axle Shaft

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...hassis-parts&gclid=CM7Ns_HLn9ACFQUtaQodLRwI-A

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...7l+v8,1041398,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392
vetteuj1.png


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C3 C4 Corvette 1968-1996 Driveshaft / Axle Shaft U-Joints
https://www.corvettemods.com/C3-C4-...p_14609.html?gclid=CNPom6fIn9ACFQmOaQodO3cDnQ
Part Number:14609




  1. A7141.jpg


    Part #: 25-122875-1

    Corvette Driveshaft U-Joint, 1953-1996
25-122875-1 half shaft








http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/cata...=&ea_bc=&ea_c=transmission-and-driveline.html

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...7l+v8,1041398,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392

you need a decent hydraulic press in your shop, a 12 ton will work a 20 tons a better press
12ton.jpg
 
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They are like a bomb when they fail Grumpy.
Never did find that driveshaft that let go 115 mph.

Going to get a Mark Williams or Strange Engineering made for over 1000 Hp in the T/A
 
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