Hi from Germany

J&B weld looks like thin grey peanut butter and spreads and bonds even easier for the first few minutes,
but it takes several hours to solidify and fully bond,
the epoxy sticks you meld and blend, before use,
never come close to the level of adhesion of J&B weld
 
Does JB Weld work over lead. I have two very small holes I can't locate. So my plan was now to file the lead smooth and than put a layer of JB Weld on it. If it doesn't work I try to get all the lead down before using JB Weld.
 
if you can get the previously melted lead off the base metal before you use the J&B epoxy it would be best
 
Another option is Braze over with flux coated brazing brass rod & an Acetylene Gas torch.
MAP Gas torch will work too.

Leading is hard the 1st time.
Dealing with Gasoline and it leaks through the tiniest pin holes or defects.

Brazing will still work with the Lead on the steel now.

Real similar to Gas Welding. Its easy to do.

I would Braze it.

I have had JB Weld pop off gas tanks in Summer time heat.
Not supposed to happen but it has to me.
 
Good point Maniacmechanic1. Thats the last thing I want, a new leak when the tank is back under the car.
 
lead/tin solders and lead alloys melt hundreds of degrees LOWER in temp than BRAZING alloys (typically in the 300-F 680-F temp range)
its physically impossible to braze over a solder alloy,
you might succeed in brazing through to the base metal surface,with a silver or copper braze rod,(used in the typically 850-F 1300-F temp range)
but it would almost always result in a less structural sound brazed surface.



https://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/brazing-copper-and-copper-alloys
brazing-copper-and-copper-alloys-brazing-diagram.jpg

From:

http://mwsco.com/kb/kb_Tree.asp

Soldering is defined as a group of joining processes that produce coalescence of materials by heating them to the soldering temperature and by using a filler metal (solder) having a liquidus not exceeding 840F (450C) and below the solidus of the base metals. The solder is distributed between closely fitted faying surfaces of the joint by capillary action.

Brazing joins materials by heating them in the presence of a filler metal having a liquidus above 840F (450C) but below the solidus of the base metals. Heating may be provided by a variety of processes. The filler metal distributes itself between the closely fitted surfaces of the joint by capillary action. Brazing differs from soldering, in that soldering filler metals have a liquidus below 840F (450C).

Brazing with silver alloy filler metals is sometimes called silver soldering, a nonpreferred term. Silver brazing filler metals are not solders; they have liquidus temperatures above 840F (450C).

Brazing does not include the process known as braze welding. Braze welding is a method of welding with a brazing filler metal. In braze welding, the filler metal is melted and deposited in grooves and fillets exactly at the points where it is to be used. Capillary action is not a factor in distribution of the brazing filler metal. Indeed, limited base metal fusion may occur in braze welding.

Brazing must meet each of three criteria:

(1) The parts must be joined without melting the base metals.

(2) The filler metal must have a liquidus temperature above 840F (450C).

(3) The filler metal must wet the base metal surfaces and be drawn into or held in the joint by capillary action.

To achieve a good joint, the parts must be properly cleaned and must be protected by either flux or atmosphere during the heating process to prevent excessive oxidation. The parts must be designed to afford a capillary for the filler metal when properly aligned, and a heating process must be selected that will provide the proper brazing temperature and heat distribution.
 
Got a New Gas Tank for my Trans Am too.
Old gas tanks...pain.

Still holding up the original in my 63 Pontiac Gp.
Must be Super thick Tern the Tin Coated inside out.
 
Last edited:
I shipped off Markus's CS144 Alternator 1-wire hookup race with the L88 Corvette Pulley.
Tested on my 1963 Gp with Its Olds 425 Super Rocket V8.
Buzzed the engine up to 6,000 + rpm several times. Passed my Tests.
Made a Video.
Upload and post soon.
 
I Like the L88 Corvette Alternator pulley.
I will have to buy one for myself.
Maintains a nice charging output at 750 rpm Where the Olds 425 idles at.
 
Great video. Thank you for building me this unit.
Thank You Marcus.

Remember it's 1-wire Hookup design now.
Just hookup the Charging output wire to the 8mm- 5/16" Stud with the 13mm Nut.
Try and make the Charge output wire 1-guage or 0 Guage you will have Max Alternator performance.
Don't hook anything up to the Stock Field plug. You will see the pins. Dummy No connection now.

You will notice Brighter Headlights at night.
All accessories work better.
All accessories on and CS144 Loaded and it does not break a sweat.
 
I use 95mm2 it is 3/0 AWG Cables to Battery and 50mm2 it is 1 AWG as charging cable from Alternator to Starter (3 feet long).
 
Last Saturday I had exhaust gases in my cooling system. So I hope that only the head gasket is blown.


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