Unforgiven Project

Your intake manifold needs to have the rear ports to connect to. I have added them in the past to intakes without them.
You can drill & tap for AN fittings (not easy, need milling machine) or you can weld on bungs.
The rear cylinders run hotter and this is supposed to make the temperatures more equal.
Think about it, the cool water is pumped at the lower front of the block and gets hotter and hotter, rising up around the cylinders as it gets to the rear. Then it has to find its way all the way back to exit at the thermostat mounting. This kit lets that hot water exit at the rear.

If you really want to do this, get an intake with the 4 bungs, run hoses to connect each front & rear together, and use the inline t-stat mount. That should be the simplest way to get this done.

backofmanifold.jpg
 
blower intake.jpg
This is my intake.

Are you referring to what use to be a cross over port to add heat into the manifold?
 
Ok fella's ... I have to do the block deck mods tomorrow night if I want them.
My machinist just called and needs to have my block saturday morning for the machine work.
He is setting up on another block and wants to do mine the same day while his machine is set up.

And my wife reminded me of a dinner engagement she made with some family members that we HAVE to attend to tonight.
So.... I will be burning the midnight oil tomorrow after work.

I need to get this block to him because he is doing the machine work at no charge. It's on his own time. (great to have friends).:)
 
Thanks for all the advise you fella's have given to me.. I really do appreciate it all.
I'm not going anywhere... I just wanted to throw that out there.
 
Loves302Chevy said:
What about an inline thermostat housing in the upper radiator hose? If it will take a thermostat, it will also take the restrictor disc.

cimg0940-1-jpg.202246
Click to expand...
Yes that will Work Mike.
A remote inline T-stat housing with a water restrictor plate.
Once you fill a block you have to take extra steps to cool proper as you know too.
 
Unforgiven said:
I do not like the idea of having a fuel line in the cab. Possibility of a leak and fire.
Click to expand...
You might consider going with the AEM AQ-1 data logger. You already have their A/F meter, you
just need to add the fuel pressure gauge which also acts as the sender for AQ-1. It can log up to 8
channels. I used a TPS and MAP sensor from the salvage yard, so it would be easy to expand the
number of sensors. Also you won't have to watch all the gauges while your in the heat of competition,
just download and analyze after the race.

I know it's more money, but something to think about for the future.

Everything in my dash except the clock can be recorded by the AQ-1, plus the MAP, TPS and 3-Axis Acceleration.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-2500

FP07_DashWiringFromBackSide_6112.jpg
FP09_DashInCar_6128.jpg
Grumpy_2015-08-29-1507.jpg
 
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Unforgiven said:
View attachment 11805
This is my intake.

Are you referring to what use to be a cross over port to add heat into the manifold?
Click to expand...

No. The heat crossover is under the carb for warming the air/fuel mixture on cold days.
Your intake does not have this.
Your intake DOES NOT have the bosses in the corners. Those blocks are for stiffening at the water ports.
Your machinist friend can mill the area down and then drill & tap for an AN fitting in the 3 other corners. I have done it.
Or weld on bosses like they do for fuel injectors.
The MOROSO deck plugs already have the holes in the plugs.
 
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Be careful when using an isolator, they do have their requirements. But they are much better than
running a line inside the cab for obvious safety reasons.

The Autometer isolators are not compatible with Alcohol. Using the link below and click on the
"Additional Notes" tab and read.
- Not for use with Alcohol, Nitromethane, or Diesel fuels.

https://www.autometer.com/fuel-pres...auges-red-anodized-aluminum-4an-fittings.html

The Mallory isolator needs a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze on one side, but is compatible with the
Alcohol E85 you will be using.

https://www.holley.com/products/plu...pters/gauge_adapters_and_fittings/parts/29139

Mechanical pressure gauges offer maximum accuracy but can be a safety hazard. Whether you want
to monitor fuel, oil, or even coolant pressure, you can do it safely without the risk of spraying fuel,
hot oil or coolant all over your interior. Easy to install, just hook a pressure line from your engine
compartment to one side of the CNC machined Mallory Pressure Isolator and fill the line from
your gauge to the other side of the isolator with a 50-50 mix of antifreeze and water.
Your gauge reads the pressure instantly and accurately, but safely. The isolator kit includes the
mounting bracket, #4 AN fittings and is compatible with gasoline, alcohol/methanol, oil
or even coolant. The maximum recommended pressure is 80 PSI.
 
Wow.. I missed alot of conversation!

Loves302Chevy said:
If you really want to do this, get an intake with the 4 bungs, run hoses to connect each front & rear together, and use the inline t-stat mount. That should be the simplest way to get this done.
Click to expand...

I like the idea alot! It also helps with the problem of having that t-stat un accesible

Loves302Chevy said:
Your intake DOES NOT have the bosses in the corners. Those blocks are for stiffening at the water ports.
Your machinist friend can mill the area down and then drill & tap for an AN fitting in the 3 other corners. I have done it.
Click to expand...

I am humbled by this Mike.
I will take a look at what is happening when I get out to the barn tonight.
After seeing your picture of your manifold, I thought I would be able to drill and tap those corner bosses shown on my intake.
I am understanding what Brian and you are talking about now , I really like this mod idea and want to do it as to how you explained.
Thank you. :)

Brian, I slept on the deck plug mod last night and I think it would be a good mod to do.. I do not have the time to order a set of plugs, so I will look at work
to see if we have any 3/4" NPT plugs , and drill the holes myself. I was thinking a 5/16" or a 7/16" hole drilled thru.
If I don't have them, I am not going to sweat not having this mod done though.
 
Rick, you are the computer GURU!:)
I have always wanted a data logger. I just don't know that much about them. I like the idea of looking back at how the motor performed (good or bad).
I agree that instant readings are best ..but I can't study the gauges while the truck is bouncing around on the edge of being out of control!
We will talk more about how to make a logger down the road.

I looked into that isolator by Mallory... it is going on the list of things to purchase.
 
Unforgiven said:
Wow.. I missed alot of conversation!



I like the idea alot! It also helps with the problem of having that t-stat un accesible



I am humbled by this Mike.
I will take a look at what is happening when I get out to the barn tonight.
After seeing your picture of your manifold, I thought I would be able to drill and tap those corner bosses shown on my intake.
I am understanding what Brian and you are talking about now , I really like this mod idea and want to do it as to how you explained.
Thank you. :)

Brian, I slept on the deck plug mod last night and I think it would be a good mod to do.. I do not have the time to order a set of plugs, so I will look at work
to see if we have any 3/4" NPT plugs , and drill the holes myself. I was thinking a 5/16" or a 7/16" hole drilled thru.
If I don't have them, I am not going to sweat not having this mod done though.
Click to expand...
Yes universal NPT plugs will work. Easy to drill.
 
Another topic I have a concern with is the deck height.
My old trw pistons were down in the hole .012
They have a 1.425 compression height.
My new pistons are 1.440 in height.
This will put the new pistons out of the hole .003 without redecking the block.
We are going to check the deck for flatness and mill if need be. But....
My concern is : If the piston is out of the hole, There will be an area between the piston and gasket fire ring that is lower than the top of the piston.
Will this affect the flame travel in the quench area?
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Dirt Track they get airborne 2-3 feet off the ground at 80-120mph.
Click to expand...

LOL... I have been 10'-12' off the ground at about 50 mph... It really does take a toll on the truck, not to mention my body When landing a
truck 7500lbs with leaf springs.:(
I see your point with electronics.. But it still would be nice to have.
 
Brian.. can these plugs be installed so that they are just below the deck surface, or would that defeat the purpose of having them. I do not think I am going to have time to acquire and install them before machining tomorrow. also would green loc-tite be used in this application.
 
Id suggest you skip the deck plugs, this time ,
the added rigidity is marginal, compared to getting a much more rigid after market block in the future,
you generally would have the two block deck's milled after the plugs are installed,
and drilled, further adding time and cost.
its a good deal of work with potentially minor benefits,
it also tends to increase engine coolant temps slightly,
something you may not want to deal with.

not all the links relate to your build but may be helpful
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Moroso-37800-Chevy-Block-Deck-Plug-Kit,590.html

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/83818-block-plug-basics/

https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-...g-101-getting-started-with-your-engine-build/

https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/engine-components/small-block/race-blocks

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1210-chevrolet-350-small-block-comparison/

https://www.dragzine.com/news/engine-machining-101-getting-started-with-your-engine-build/

https://www.chevydiy.com/big-block-chevrolet-engine-step-step-rebuid-machine-shop-guide/

https://www.chevydiy.com/machine-shop-guide-build-chevy-small-block-engines/

http://www.budgetenginerebuilders.com/machining-services/

https://www.steveschmidtracing.com/machine-shop
 
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Thank you Grumpy
Although I do like the idea of this mod.
I am starting to feel like I have to rush in order to do this mod, given the time frame window I have for the machining.
I DO NOT want to rush through anything. Mistakes seem to always happen when I do.

Your advice is well heeded.
 
Unforgiven said:
Brian.. can these plugs be installed so that they are just below the deck surface, or would that defeat the purpose of having them. I do not think I am going to have time to acquire and install them before machining tomorrow. also would green loc-tite be used in this application.
Click to expand...
It's part of the Mod I know When you hardblock a Small Block Chevy for racing use.
The plugs are not flush.
Milling the decks make it flush.
I recommend.
You have New Forged Wiseco pistons and Scat rotating assembly.

Hardblocking works.
Dirt Track racers here do it when no money For a Dart Little M or Dart M aluminum. $7k block in AL.

Easy to do.
Go to Fastenal. Pipe plugs there.
Local machine shop too.
Take 1 hour to get it done.
Green or Red Loctite fine.
 
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