bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
YES ITS REALLY WORTH THE TIME AND EFFORT TO READ THRU THE SUB LINKED INFO
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-brief-look-at-clutches.447/

Pilot bushing clearance to trans input shaft should be .001 to .004
...with .002-.003 being considered about ideal

Default SBC Flywheel & Flexplate part numbers

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142525
discspbl.jpg

Small Block Chevy Flywheel Part Numbers
Part # DIA. Teeth Comments
3991406 Flywheel, LW Nodular Iron for HD 10.5" Clutch
3991469 14" 168 two-piece seal, internally balanced
3986394 14" 168 400 External balance, two-piece seal
10105832 14" 168 86-later, one-piece rear seal, ext. balance
14088671 12.75" 153 86-later, one piece rear seal, int. balance
14085720 12.75" 153 Lightweight (15 lbs.), nodular iron, two-piece seal, int bal Will work with a clutch diameter of 10.4" only. Crank flange bolt pattern is 3.58". Will work with a clutch diameter of 10.4" OR 11.0". Crank flange bolt pattern is 3.0"
14088646 12.75" 153 86-up, Lightweight (15 lbs.), nodular iron, one-piece rear seal, ext bal
14088648 14" 168 86-up, one-piece rear seal, ext. balance
14088650 12.75" 153 86-up, one-piece rear seal, ext balance Will work with a clutch diameter of 10.4" only. Crank flange bolt pattern is 3.0"
10174482 89-up with six-speed m/t, requires starter (10455709)
Common clutch sizes are: 10.4", 11.0", and 11.85". Some flywheels are drilled for two different clutch patterns.
12.75" are usually 153 tooth and the other larger 14" diam. are 168 tooth flywheel or flex plate designs, the larger 14"/168 tooth designs fit the much stronger 11" clutches.... obviously the 14" can use a larger clutch, but require a larger bell housing that is why some stock bell housings won,t fit the larger fly wheels and of course the starter used must match


Small Block Chevy Flexplate Part Numbers
Part # DIA. Teeth Comments
471529 12.75" 153 Two-piece seal blocks, int balance
471578 14" 168 400 ext. bal, two-piece rear seal
471598 14" 168 Two-piece seal blocks, internal balance
10128412 12.75" 153 86-up, one-piece rear seal ext. balance
10128413 14" 168 86-up, one-piece seal, extra thick, HD, ext bal
10128414 14" 168 86-96, one-piece rear seal, ext. balance
14088761 14" 168 89-up 350 HO, one-piece rear seal, ext. bal.
14088765 12.75" 153 86-up, one-piece rear seal, ext. bal.
14088767 14" 168 89-up 350 HO, one-piece rear seal, HD, ext. bal
WATCH THE VIDEOS , AND READ THRU THE LINKS AND TAKE A FEW NOTES
http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/Catal ... 74437G.pdf

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... TdTBq6-EI#!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sTdTBq6 ... e=youtu.be



viewtopic.php?f=71&t=584&p=21690&hilit=bell+housing#p21690

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

http://www.hotrod.com/news/1405-postage-paid-may-2014/

http://www.colemanracing.com/Alignment- ... P4573.aspx
396-600-color.jpg

bellhousings-Dial_Indicator_with_Mag_Base_small.jpg

http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml
http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml
http://www.browellbellhousing.com/components.html
)to get the old rusted bell housing alignment pins loose heat them with a propane torch for about 2 minutes then spray the pins with freeze spray for a minimum of 8-9 seconds with
http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
freeze.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Freeze-Re ... B001VXU474
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-15907/?rtype=10
after rapid heat and cool cycles, they should easily twist out with vise grips or punch out with a hammer and drift. the new pins use locking expansion allen key locks, once correctly indexed
lak-15907_w


http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html
Due to manufacturers’ machining tolerances of engine blocks in relationship to dowel pin location, it is quite possible for
the crankshaft centerline and bellhousing bore to be misaligned. With the transmission installed in a misaligned condition,
several problems can occur, such as pilot bearing and main shaft bearing wear, difficulty in shifting, and in extreme cases
breakage of transmission gears and cases. While most housings will fall within the allowable limits, it is good insurance to
check for register bore runout whenever any housing or engine block is installed. Most factory service manuals will outline
the checking procedure, but will not give correctional measures necessary to ensure trouble-free standard transmission
operation, short of trial and error with switching of various O.E. housings.
NOTE: ADJUSTABLE DOWELS ARE USED TO DIAL IN BELLHOUSINGS BECAUSE THE ENGINE BLOCKS CASTED FROM THE
OEM FACTORY CAN BE OUT OF TOLERANCE. SO, YOU WILL NEED TO ALIGN ENGINE AND BELLHOUSING.
Offset dowel pins are available from Lakewood Industries to ensure correct adapter housing installation. For checking, you
will need a dial indicator (preferably
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Remove clutch assembly from flywheel and install bellhousing on engine block.
(It is easier when you leave the clutch assembly off the flywheel.)
2. Install dial indicator base on the flywheel and adjust plunger to contact the register
bore of the housing. (See photo.)
3. Rotate the flywheel and note indicator reading. Misalignment is one-half of the
indicator reading (maximum allowable is .005”).
4. To correct off-center condition, select the offset dowel pin pair that is closest to onehalf
of the indicator reading. (i.e., if reading is .016”, 1/2R=.008” use .007” dowels.
If reading is .024”, 1/2R=.012” use .014” dowels).
5. Remove stock dowel pins by driving from back side or pulling with gripper
pliers.
6. Clean engine block dowel holes and coat lightly with lubricant.
7. Lubricate dowel pins and install in block. The slot in the dowel pins indicates the
direction of maximum offset. They should be installed parallel to one another,
and in pairs (both .007” or both .014” and .021”).
8. Install and tighten bellhousing securely. Remount the dial indicator and recheck
the register bore runout (Repeat step 3).
9. To make small corrections or adjustments to the alignment, you will need to
remove the bellhousing and drive the offset dowels out of the block. Reposition
the dowels using the slot as a reference point and re-install. Re-check register
bore run-out. Repeat this procedure until the register bore is within limits

clutch fork stud:
DSC017341.jpg

CLUTCHFORK1.JPG

CLUTCHFORK2.JPG

CLUTCHFORK3.JPG

CLUTCHFORK4.JPG


http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/600/620/620-15500.pdf
http://www.4speedconversions.com/62-67_nova_linkage.html

http://www.4speedconversions.com/chevy_2_linkage_kit_r1.html

http://www.modernperformanceclassics.net/ShowItem/102808 62-67 Nova Clutch Adapter Bracket.aspx
You want 4.75 inches from the flange to the top of the ball stud thats if you have not had any work done to your flywheel or pressure plate
the 4.75" is from the flange of the bellhouseing to the top of the ball stud.
lay a straight edge across the flange of the bellhousing and measure down to the ball stud


http://www.allpar.com/mopar/shield.html

http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/pdf/b ... cedure.pdf

http://www.priveye.com/images/lakewood.htm

http://www.usaperform.com/clutches-bell ... c-468.html

http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/G ... 15-09A.pdf

http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... index.html

http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html#chevy

http://www.priveye.com/images/lakewood.htm

http://andysgd427.blogspot.com/2009/08/ ... nment.html

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/add ... ewall.html

http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=1122&hilit=bellhousing

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1042&p=1969#p1969

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-15907/

http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=447

980300 UNIVERSAL TRANSMISSION BLANKET SFI APPROVED $94.43 (http://www.comteck.com/~trans/adapter_plates.htm ) (kevlar scatter shield, the same thing bullet proof vests are made of)

lak-15032_w.jpg

til-12003_w.jpg


http://www.browellbellhousing.com/pages ... -page.html

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... 5&x=27&y=9

Lakewood bellhousing is about $329. This one from Speedway is $249.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/545,36_Explosion-Proof-Chevy-Bellhousing-with-Plate.html#feedback
keep in mind you want a SFI BILLET flywheel and a BLOW-PROOF BELL HOUSING
scatershield2.jpg



"Lakewood Bellhousings have been tested and meet or exceed S.F.I. Spec. 6.1, when used with approved block plate. Lakewood Bellhousings are designed to contain a clutch or flywheel explosion, bellhousings include the block plate and are marked with an S.F.I. Spec. 6.1 serial number " and have a certification label that some tracks require


I think thats a CHINESE COPY, I don,t see it advertised as MEETING the S.F.I. Spec 6.1 which MIGHT mean its not up to the strength, thickness or temper and heat treatment or same level of dimensional tollerance control, its obviously better than the stock aluminum but it might not be nearly as strong as the certified bell housing


BTW
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_24568_-1
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LAK-15000&N=700+4294822099+115&autoview=sku
theres DOZENS of differant models , SIZES ETC. but LAKEWOODS about the best known brand and JEGS AND SUMMIT HAVE THEM

most of us old timers have seen what happends to a car when a flywheel/clutch blows and Ive seen a chunk of flywheel or clutch take the windshield and dash right out of a 283/57 chevy so if you plan on walking around in your old age without prosthesis legs use a lakewood houseing, youll find that the cost is very small compared to new legs. btw running your fuel lines where the frame protects them, haveing the electric fuel pump with a minimal oil pressure cut on pressure switch and carrying a 10lb co2 extinguisher is also a good idea,at least that way if the engine/flywheel blows you don,t have gas continuing to pump out everywhare from cut fuel lines.look here,
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2141&prmenbr=361


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Grumpy, funny you should mention that. 20 years ago a friends brother had th ebody and paint done on his 57 (BRIGHT ORANGE) and had a hot 283 in the car with a Muncie.

He was out on the highway running it hard and the flywheel let go (stock piece, I'd bet) and it took out the windshield, cowl, firewall, crushed the frame on each side, cut the headers as if they were paper, and left a nice hole in the pavement. Yep. Stock bellhousing.

I have the Lakewood in my Z and it was hardly a problem fitting it. I did cut the flange off of about 6" of the bottom portion, parallel with the ground, for ground clearance (I know that killed the SFI rating, but it's still alot safer than an AL bellhousing) and had to just slightly bump the tunnel in one area on the passenger side to make some clearance.
stockbell.jpg


10-03.jpg


http://www.jegs.com/p/J-W-Performance/J ... 7/10002/-1
you TH350 and TH400 guys need this also

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=447&p=5542&hilit=lakewood&sid=5b1f4d4cbc68b8f1722cca315fc912de#p5542

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-oil-soaked-clutch-dry-out.11603/#post-54020

keep in mind a SFI SCATTER SHIELD to protect your feet is almost mandatory, on a high performance engine combo
watch THESE (found on youtube)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDbrvUtN ... r_embedded

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-fly-wheel.6124/#post-35034


viewtopic.php?f=71&t=2596&p=6695&hilit=bell+housing#p6695

383RAM posted this bit of info
"Most factory stuff is usually close enough for factory parts. When you start upgrading power and clutches, it would be foolish not to check it. My one old Ansen steel bellhousing was .062 out of spec. I used the Lakwood extra long dowel pins with weld on sleeves to straighten it out. It requires all the mounting holes to be hoged out or enlongated. Then you cemter the housing and tack weld the sleeves to the bellhousing.

You have to remember, the steel housings are stamped rather than having a casting machined like the stock aluminum bellhousing. The stampings by nature are going to be off a little more. Just like a stamped quarter panel, no two are exacrtly alike.


BTW, some of the better known converter companies really prefer you dial in your automatic trans case too. I have done a couple of them, but that requires the trans to be disassembled to dial in off the front pump flange. "
 
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Re: bellhousings
use of a block plate and a blow proof bell housing ,helps prevent your feet from being cut off if the clutch or flywheel explodes, and
can frequently prevent major damage to an expensive engine block,
and avoid thousands of dollars in machine work cost on a replacement block.
use of SFI certified clutch components significantly reduces the chances of parts failure.

SFI chevy flywheels
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-1501

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-700180

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctf-700120


http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

its a great idea to use the proper GRADE #8 fasteners as they are significantly stronger than the average grade 5 hardware store bolts

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-oil-soaked-clutch-dry-out.11603/#post-54020

620-15705.jpg

lak-15000_w.jpg

READ THE LINKS THEY CONTAIN A GOOD DEAL MORE INFO
http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/video ... ent-ls.wmv

http://chevellestuff.net/qd/crank/crank.htm

watch this (found on youtube)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDbrvUtN ... r_embedded

obviously the flywheel and clutch must fit inside the bell housing and since chevy has produced a 153 tooth and larger 168 tooth flywheel the potential for the smaller size bell housing designed for the 153 tooth size bell housing to not allow the use of the larger 168 tooth flywheel exists so measure carefully and check and verify parts before ordering.

http://www.4speedconversions.com/chevy-bellhousings.html

DZAUTO said:
FIRST,
I'm presuming your car was an original manual transmission car, with its original flywheel and bell housing correct?
IF SO, unless it is a 409 car with the open bottom style bell housing ------------------- YOU CANNOT USE THE LARGER FLYWHEEL WITH AN 11in CLUTCH!
The 63 ONLY cars (except 409 cars) with a manual transmission (both pass cars and Vettes), had a bastardized bell housing and transmission.
ALLLLLLLLLLLLLL of the 63 cars (except 409 cars) came with the SMALL 153 teeth flywheel and 10 1/2in clutch. The bell housing was the small 421 version with a smaller hole where the transmission mates to the bell housing. Thus, the transmission also had a smaller front bearing retainer to fit into the smaller hold of the 63 ONLY bell housing.
Confused??? I'm not done yet.
In 1986, the flywheel/crankshaft bolt pattern for SMALL BLOCKS changed. Thus, you MUST use an 86-later flywheel on 86-later small blocks (Big Blocks changed in 91). If you have a truck flywheel for a 1986-later small block, with a 12in clutch on it, NO WAY IN GOD'S GREEN EARTH WILL THE TRUCK 12in CLUTCH FIT IN YOUR EXISTING BELL HOUSING ------------ UNLESS, UNLESS, UNLESS YOU HAVE THE OPEN BOTTOM BELL HOUSING USED WITH 409 ENGINES!
If your intent is to go with the larger 168 teeth flywheel and 11in clutch, then a "regular" car 11in clutch will bolt up to that flywheel (12in and 11In clutches use the same bolt pattern, but the 12in clutch WILL NOT fit into a car bell housing).
So, as I see it, for what you want to do, you will either need to round up a 63 aluminum open bottom bell housing (EXPENSIVE AS HELL!!!!), OR, you can go with a 55-62 style cast iron open bottom bell housing. You can also go with the full enclosure 621 style alum bell housing that was used in later years.
Last, you COULD go with the truck style bell housing which has the big bulge around the bottom. But this will require an adapter ring for your transmission, because the truck housings have an even BIGGER hole for the bigger front bearing retainer used on truck transmissions.
And that brings us to one more issue, the front bearing on the transmission that you have now. If you have an original 63 ONLY 4sp, such as a 63 T10 or 63 Muncie, then it has the ONE YEAR ONLY smaller front bearing retainer to fit the ONE YEAR ONLY 63 bell housing with the smaller hole. And that's easy to fix! Simply round up a 55-62 3sp front bearing retainer and swap it on your 63 transmission.
Confused even more? There is more to come.
This is what the open bottom 63 409 alum bell housing looked like (the one on the left). It was also used in 60-62 hi-perf 348 and 409 engines. It is essentially the same as the 55-62 iron housings (the one on the right).

don,t get the idea that a torque converter can,t fail either, if your racing youll want a transmission safety blanket
Engine-TransBlanketLg.jpg

http://www.stroudsafety.com/EngineSafety.html

EVEN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS CAN EXPLODE AND THROW SHRAPNEL THROUGH THE FLOOR
transex1.jpg

transex2.jpg

transex3.jpg

transex4.jpg

367.jpg

just because heavy jagged chunks of hot steel tend to exit through your floor, dash and wind shield with enough force to cut the cars frame in half at times when a cast flywheel comes apart at higher rpms is reason enough to use billet SFI parts and a blow proof bell housing


Now, back to your existing transmission.
If it is a 63 only version, and you use a bell housing for a 168 teeth flywheel/11in clutch, then as I mentioned above, you can install a 55-62 3sp front bearing retainer so that the transmission will be properly centered with the center of the crankshaft. MANY, MANY, MANY people falsely believe that the 4 bolts which attach the transmission to the bell housing will properly align it ----------------- NOT SO!!! The front bearing retainer of the transmission is what centers the transmission. That's why there is a snug fit between the front bearing retainer and the hole in the bell housing.
Also, as I mentioned above, if a car tranny is used with a truck bell housing, then an adapter ring is available to adapt the front bearing retainer of the car tranny to the bigger hole in the truck housing, as seen below.



Hope this helps.



how to properly align your bell housing
you might be astounded at what carefully reading thru links and sub links will do for your skill level, and the resulting engine and drive line durability issues,, rather than just winging it without facts, yes its easier to just bolt things together and drive away,but having an understanding of how the process is done correctly,and why you should take the effort helps reduce problems and parts breakage issues. youll need a dial indicator and adjustable dowels that allow you to properly move and locate the drive spline on the trans with the crank center-line, failure to take the time and effort to get things properly aligned tends to result in vibrations,rapid parts wear and parts failures
crft4.jpg

transline.jpg


centerbellhousing.jpg


When you go to install the muncie transmission, you'll obviously want the clutch disc lined up correctly with the clutch alignment tool, and the pressure plate bolted on the flywheel, then remove the alignment tool after the bell housings ready to properly install, ID start with a clutch disc alignment tool being removed once the then Id get the bell housing lined up, ID install two 3" long studs, if you can,t find studs buy studs buy 3" bolts and cut the heads off and round off the tips to allow easy use
transstuds.jpg

transstudgs.png


that have the same thread as the muncie trans retention bolts in the bottom two bell housing bolt holes, so you could get the majority of the weight off the trans front and get the spline close to lining up, use the two top bolts to clamp in to the bell housing before removing the studs and replacing them with bolts
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=5646

http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... index.html

http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/pdf/74437G.pdf

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html

http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-15907/

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... number=623

http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html#chevy

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAY-10-130/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-1501/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-700120/

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... toview=sku

don,t forget to install a pilot bearing in the rear of the crank too support the front of the transmission splined input shaft, btw you remove the old one "IF" it needs to be replaced by packing the area behind and inside it with grease and hydraulically lifting it out by use of a wood dowel driven into its center area with a mallet, the displaced grease forces the bearing up and out

http://www.autobarn.net/lis55500.html
2124.jpg


pilotbearingtool.jpg

THERE ARE TOOLS TO REMOVE PILOT BEARINGS BUT THE HYDRAULIC GREASE METHOD WORKS IF YOU DON,T HAVE ONE
[grumpy?]how do get the grease behind the bearing? [/quote]
thru the center hole the tip of the splined trans shaft rides in
710-41100.jpg



careful measurement and centering the input shaft is critical
centerbellhousing1.jpg

in some cases an adapter ring is required to match a different transmission to a bell housing


Ive removed near countless transmissions, from cars you don,t need a full lift in your shop,\
Ive done clutch and trans swaps and converter swaps with 4 12 ton jack stands for decades
with these tools.

youll need a quality high lift low profile floor jack thats no more than 3.5" tall flat on the floor and lifts to 20" minimum shop around theres a huge variation in floor jack quality
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-60678.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-Steel-Heavy-Duty-Floor-Jack-with-Rapid-Pump-68056.html

a cheap but functional tranny jack and 4 12 ton jack stands


12tonstand.jpg

5/8 in. x 4-3/4 in. Clevis Pin available at home depot for $4 each
22639b.jpg

22639a.jpg


vettejack1.jpg
+++++++++


you could easily build 4 of these wood jack stand replacements for under $70, for all materials, simply have home depot cut 12 standard 2"x 4" boards into 15.5" lengths and a sheet of 1/2" marine plywood into 15.5 x 15.5 inch squares and obviously buy wood glue and lots of 3" deck screws

f250stands.jpg


and a decent floor jack

to muscle it up into place while getting the bolts lined up
FlexPlateInstalled_4573.jpg

flexmountdi1.jpg

flexmountdi2.jpg


tcclearance.gif

vettejack1c.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-steel-jack-stands-61599.html

450tr.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html

better
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html



1500tr.jpg

even better yet
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atv-motorcycle-lift-60636.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ack-makes-all-the-difference.5512/#post-43359
 
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Chevrolet Passenger Car Clutch Housings (Bell housings)
265-350 cid V-8
GM Part No. Identification No. Year Model
3755343 3733365 55-57Pass. (8-cyl)
3785643 3779552 60-61Pass. (8-cyl exc. Sp H/Per)
62Pass. (383. 327 exc. H/Per
3785644(aluminum) 3779553 62Pass. w/H/Per (327)
3788419 3788421 63Pass.

3858403 3840383 64-67Pass. (283. 327 usually w/10.4" exc. HD Clutch)

65-67Chevelle (283 exc. H D Clutch
67-69 All (302)
68Pass. (307),
Chevy (307),
Chevelle (307 exc. H D clutch)
70-73 All (307)
64-69Pass. w/reg. fuel
65-68Chevelle (327 exc. H D Clutch)
67-68Camaro (327)
69Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro w/reg. fuel (327)
69Pass. (350 w/ reg. fuel exc. H D clutch)
69 Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro, w/reg. fuel (350)

3849307 3849309 64-67Chevy (283, 327)
3899621 (usually w/11" clutch)

66-67 All (283) w/H D clutch
67-70All (350 exc. Sp/ Per
68 All (307) w/H D clutch
70 All Sp. H/Per (350)
71-75All (350)

The ID Numbers are stamped on the inside of the housing.




Chevrolet Passenger Car Starting Motors
265-350 cid V-8, Manual Transmission

GM Part No. Identification No. Year Model

n/a stamped 1107627-1107645 55-56 All Pass. (265)

n/a stamped 11076 60-64-964-889-892 57-61 Pass. (265-283)

1108361 stamped 1107320-1108361 63-64Pass. (327)
(cyl. block mounting) 65-67 Pass. Chevy, Chevelle (327)
67Camaro (exc. 350)
68Pass. (327 exc. H D clutch)
68Chevy, Chevelle (327)
69Chevy (350)
69Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro
(4-bbl w/reg. fuel 350)
1108366 stamped 1108365-66-67-8512 62-64Chevy, Chevelle
(cyl. block mounting) 63-64Pass. (283)
65-67Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro (exc. 327)
65-67Pass. (283 exc. H D clutch)
68-69Pass. (307, 327 exc H D clutch)
68Chevelle (exc. H D clutch)
68-69Camaro (exc. 350)
70-73All (307)

1108788 70-75Nova, Chevelle, Camaro (8-cyl.)
The Starter ID Numbers are stamped on the side of the gear housing.
__________________

Small Block Chevrolet V-8
Clutch Housing-Flywheel- Starter Housing
Combinations
Clutch Housing Flywheel Starter numbers

265/283cid (1955-62)
3755343 3739423 1107627-45
3785643 3998281 1107660-64

283cid (1963-67)
3788419 3791022 1108366
3858403 3973452 1108366
3849307 3973452 1108366

302cid (1967-69)
3858403 3973452 1108361

307cid (1968-73)
3858403 3973452 1108366

327cid (1962-69)
3785643 3739423 1108366
3785644 3739423 1108366
3788419 3791022 1108361
3848403 3973452 1108361
3849307 3973452 1108361

350cid
(1967-75)
3958403 3998281 1108361
3899621 3998281 1108788

Chevrolet Passenger Car flywheels
265-350cid V-8, Manual Transmission

GM Part No. Identification No. Year Model

3739423 w/10" coil & diaphragm spring clutch
55 8-cyl exc. H D clutch 4-bbl


(11 5/8" bolt circle) cast 3829004
56Pass. w/2-bbl (exc. H D clutch)
56 Pass. w/4 bbl.
56-58Pass. (283 exc. H D clutch dual 4-bbl F. I
w/4-spd)
59-61Pass. (283 exc. o/d)
62Pass. (8-cyl)

3998281w/11" coil spring clutch (12 5/8" bolt
circle) solid type
55-56Pass. w/CAC (8 cyl)
55-56Pass. w/4-bbl
57Pass. (exc. 4-bbl, dual 4-bbl)
58Pass. w/H D clutch (283 exc. 4-bbl, F.I. o/d)
58-61Pass. w/o/d (283)
66-68Pass. w/H D clutch (327)
67-69Chevelle w/H D clutch (327)
67Chevelle w/H D clutch (283)
67-69Camaro, Chevy (350)
69Pass. (350)
70All w/4-bbl (350)
70-74All w/Sp H Per. (350)

3791022 solid type (cast 3791021)
63-64Pass. (283, 327 exc. H D clutch)

3973452 solid type, as above
64-67 All (283 exc. H D clutch)
66-67Pass. w/H D clutch (283)
64-68All (327 exc. H D clutch)
67-69All (302)
69 Pass. w/reg. fuel (327, 350)

3986390
70-72All w/2-bbl. (350)
71Chevelle w/4-bbl (350 exc. Monte Carlo)
73-74All (350 exc. Sp H/Per.)
75Nova, Camaro (350)
 
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blownflywheel3.jpg

"HEY grumpy? I have a bad crank pilot bearing, I Was using a slide hammer on it, but its so far gone, that All the needles and the cage are gone and I have the inner edge all bent over so the slide hammer isn't working very well. Was hitting it pretty good with the slide hammer but no luck.
Any tips on an easy way to get the remnants of this bearing out? Was thinking about trying to split it with a chisel but don't want to score the bore of the crankshaft".
IF you need to remove the old pilot bearing, a ounce of thick bearing grease
molygr.png

and an aluminum or wood dowel and a couple hard whacks with a ball peen hammer hydraulically removes the bearing, just wrap electrical tape on the dowel to reduce clearance, if its required to get a decent seal.
pilot_bushing_removal.jpg


wornbearq.jpg


http://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech-articles/clutch-and-release/


when they get really deformed you can thread in a bottom tap of the correct size that effectively acts like a thread jack and pulls the deformed bearing in many cases, use of FREEZE SPRAY directly on the bearing while slightly heating the crank flange with a propane torch also tends to make removal easier
dcp2.jpg

OBVIOUSLY THE THREADS ON THE TAP MUST BE LARGER IN DIAMETER THAN THE HOLE IN THE BUSTED BEARING TO GET A FIRM GRIP FOR REMOVAL
bottomtap1.jpg

T-wrench.jpg

IF ITS REALLY TORN UP NATIONAL PIPE THREAD TAPS HAVE A GREAT DEAL PF TAPER AND COURSE THREADS THAT MIGHT HELP
npt_threads.png

find the correct thread size tap to fit snugly inside the well worn pilot bearing, and thread the tap into the bearing until its tip bears on the recessed crank hub
heat the crank flange briefly with propane torch
propanetorch.gif

spray the pilot bearing for a minimum of 5-6 seconds with
http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/
freeze.jpg

LoctiteFreeze&Release.JPG

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Freeze-Re ... B001VXU474
then thread the pilot bearing out, using the bottoming tap as a thread jack that has a firm grip on the worn bearings interior surface as it bears against the bottom of the crank recess as the temp change between the two components, the pilot bearing diameters been reduced in diameter slightly by the temp change, and heating the crank flange has been slightly expanded by the propane torch.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28632/use-right-grease
flyexp3.jpg

flyexp1.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...xperienced-and-skilled-help.16177/#post-97651

BTW the flat steel "TAN" in this picture, hard plate that is about 1/8" thick, that mounts between the flywheel and bell housing that helps protect the block from being damaged if the clutch or flywheel comes apart or loose at 6000 rpm
flyexp2.jpg

motor009.jpg


more pictures showing the results of a STOCK STYLE , NON SFI RATED flywheel coming apart , luckily this guy had the foresight to use a blow proof bell housing so he only lost an engine not his feet, but even with the blow proof bell housing look at the damage that resulted

they also sell auto transmission shrapnel resistant safety blankets, and converter shield plates which are an excellent idea, for what should be obvious reasons
sts-516.jpg

tci-970005_w.jpg


csi-836_w_ml.jpg

https://www.summitracing.com/search/section/shields-blankets
tumblr_pczysteNGy1uckbglo1_500.jpg

tumblr_pczysteNGy1uckbglo4_540.jpg


tumblr_pczysteNGy1uckbglo2_500.jpg

tumblr_pczysteNGy1uckbglo3_500.jpg

 
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May be a silly question but, will the stock bellhousing inspection plate fit an aftermarket bellhousing like a Lakewood 15000?
 

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bytor said:
May be a silly question but, will the stock bellhousing inspection plate fit an aftermarket bell housing like a Lakewood 15000?
READ THE LINKS AND SUB-LINKS
http://documents.holley.com/lakewood_instructions_safety_bellhousing_pontiac_oldsmobile_15100.pdf

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/hydraulic-throw-out-bearings.1122/#post-2236

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ack-makes-all-the-difference.5512/#post-43359





62015705.jpg


theres NO CHANCE simply because , a properly installed blow proof housings come with block saver plates, that cover that area, the block saver plate forms the front facing support wall containing the clutch and protecting the block, and strengthening the bell housing during and clutch or flywheel failure, and helps contain potential shrapnel

bellhousingblocksaver.jpg

bellh1.JPG

bellh2.JPG

bellh3.JPG

bellh4.JPG

bellh5.JPG

bellh6.JPG

bellh7.JPG

bellh8.JPG

bellh9.JPG


http://www.4speedconversions.com/chevy-bellhousings.html

ccl1.png

ccl2.png

ccl3.png

ccl4.png

ccl5.png

keep in mind any serious performance application is best served with SFI certified billet flywheel,
clutch assembly and a blow proof bell housing
 
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So, kind of going back and forth with the whole SFI approved bellhousing vs. stock thing. I will be running a Ram billet SFI approved flywheel and Ram Powergrip clutch that supposedly “meets SFI specifications”. So is a SFI bellhousing really necessary for a car that will never run slicks and see only a few runs down the quarter mile?
 
bytor said:
So, kind of going back and forth with the whole SFI approved bellhousing vs. stock thing. I will be running a Ram billet SFI approved flywheel and Ram Powergrip clutch that supposedly “meets SFI specifications”. So is a SFI bellhousing really necessary for a car that will never run slicks and see only a few runs down the quarter mile?

yes IM all too aware most of us are operating on very limited funds , Its taken me 7 years so far to accumulate less than 2/3rds of the parts I need for my own planed engine swap, but the bottom line is you can slap together cheap parts or you can build something correctly, with good parts the difference once your done is huge, and in many cases the result of cheap parts is a dangerous car or one thats not nearly as fast, or safe as it could be THOSE ARE YOUR FEET, HAVING AN SFI CERTIFIED FLYWHEEL IS ONLY PART OF THE POTENTIAL PROBLEM,S CURE, BUT ITS HARDLY FOOL PROOF, THE PRESSURE PLATES IS JUST AS LIKELY TO EXPLODE, AS THE CLUTCH DISC OR PRESSURE PLATE OR FLYWHEEL AND DOES IT REALLY MATER THE ORIGINAL PART THAT EXPLODES AND CUTS YOUR FEET OFF......IF YOU VALUE YOUR FEET THE SFI FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE AND BELL HOUSING WITH BLOCK PLATE ARE A GOOD IDEA
INSTALLING SFI RATED PARTS REDUCES THE CHANCES OF DAMAGE ITS NOT 100% A CURE
 
grumpyvette said:
yes IM all too aware most of us are operating on very limited funds , Its taken me 7 years so far to accumulate less than 2/3rds of the parts I need for my own planed engine swap, but the bottom line is you can slap together cheap parts or you can build something correctly, with good parts the difference once your done is huge, and in many cases the result of cheap parts is a dangerous car or one thats not nearly as fast, or safe as it could be [/color][/size] THOSE ARE YOUR FEET, HAVING AN SFI CERTIFIED FLYWHEEL IS ONLY PART OF THE POTENTIAL PROBLEM,S CURE, BUT ITS HARDLY FOOL PROOF, THE PRESSURE PLATES IS JUST AS LIKELY TO EXPLODE, AS THE CLUTCH DISC OR PRESSURE PLATE OR FLYWHEEL AND DOES IT REALLY MATER THE ORIGINAL PART THAT EXPLODES AND CUTS YOUR FEET OFF......IF YOU VALUE YOUR FEET THE SFI FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE AND BELL HOUSING WITH BLOCK PLATE ARE A GOOD IDEA INSTALLING SFI RATED PARTS

From a budget prospective I had planned on using one from the beginning. Being a new to this, I just started second guessing myself and wondering if I was over doing it. Its cheap insurance and I don’t intend to drive the car conservatively either so decision made, SFI bellhousing it is.

'Looking forward to a few of those 60mph rolling burnouts.' As always, thanks for the guidance and prospective.
 
Sharing some additional bellhousing install and alignment instructions I stumbled across.
 

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Everything is this thread is for a manual trans, but what about an
automatic? How important is the alignment for an automatic and
how would the check be performed?

 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-37934?seid=srese1&gclid=CLmdp_6p6cgCFQ-RaQodzgoP6A

http://www.colemanracing.com/Alignment-Tool-Bellhousing-P4573.aspx

http://www.camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ools-diagnosing-clutch-issues.3553/#post-9431

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ectly-installing-bellhousings.584/#post-55596

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/muncie-spline-count.11255/#post-50852

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...t-my-hurst-four-speed-shifter.2936/#post-7698

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/clutch-fork-question.7852/#post-27090
discspbl.jpg


Browella.JPG
Browellb.JPG

Browellc.JPG

Browelld.JPG

Browelle.JPG

mor-37934_w.jpg




if your trying to remove a stuck dowel alignment pin,if you can get to the back side a punch and hammer can be used to drive out the pin(s)
if you can only get to the front you can drill
hammer-drills.jpg

and tap,
T-wrench.jpg

the stud, you can use a slide hammer and penetrating oil to remove it.

Z-r9JxicpEx_.JPG

there are several versions of off set , index-able and expanding base ,bell housing dowel location pins available,
too properly align your bell housing. from several sources.
if you need to properly index the bell housing center line.
this obviously required the O.E.M. pins to be removed first.

EngDowel.jpg


one more in a near endless list of reasons every shop should have a decent MIG or TIG welder in its inventory

4.... 12 ton rated jack stands, carefully located on the frame help provide a secure place to work under the car
12tonstand.jpg


if you can,t afford to buy 4-6 of the 12 ton rated jack stands or a lift building car supports from 15" sections of 2" x 4" scrap is a decent option, but a 15" square 1/2" plywood section inserted and wood glued and screwed, into the support stack, every few layers adds considerable structural rigidity
woodst1.jpg

at times having an inspection tools handy when you can't get a good look at a problem any other way

if your going to buy a used short block or a bare block from an un-known private source or most salvage yards, obviously you'll need to do BOTH a close inspection, WITH some measuring tools
AND get some idea of the blocks physical condition
this is also a good inspection tool
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6283- ... pv618.aspx
PV618.jpg

GOOGLE PV-618 and PV-636

High resolution lens provides a clear image of objects as close as 3/4 inch and over one foot away while providing a wide 40 degree field of view.
Powerful lamp illuminates dark crevices on-demand with the push of a button conveniently located on the handle.
Ergonomically designed handle is comfortable to hold and allows one-handed focusing and light activation.
Rugged and water resistant, ProVision is made of high impact ABS and flexible cable sheathing. (Note: Shaft is water resistant, not the handle.)
PV-618 and PV-636 models have .23” diameter, flexible, non-obedient cable. Durable carrying case included.
Accessories available to optimize ProVision for specialized applications.
Made in the USA
Specifications:

Cable Length: 18" (457.2mm)
Cable Diameter: .23"
Handle Length: 6" (152.4mm)
Handle Width: 1.43" (36.2mm)Overall Length: 24" (609.6mm)
Weight of Scope w/ Carrying Case: 1 lb. 5.7 oz (615 g)
Field of View: 40°
Optimal Viewing Distance: Min. .8" (20mm); Max. is dependent upon ambient lighting conditions.
Lamp Volts: 2.7 volts (Halogen)
Power Source: 2 AA batteries (not included)
Pressure Necessary to Operate Lamp: 2.9 avg. p/psi; 3.2 max. p/psi


heres a cheaper version that works with a lap top computer

51GhC8fSwCL.jpg

GCA 5.5mm Diameter USB Waterproof 6 Led Endoscope Borescope Inspection Wire Camera (5m)

Price: $18.50 & FREE Shipping on orders over $49. Details




    • Waterproof wire endoscope
    • Diameter:5.5mm head, 5 meters long flexible tube
    • High resolution 1.3MP with 1/12" VGA CMO
    • 6 LED lighting adjustable, can be inspected the hard-to-see areas.
    • Waterproof : IP67, 60°Viewable Angle. Can take photo & video and save in your computer
 
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Great thread, Grumpy. I am going through a trans rebuild (GM T5 with G-Force gears) on my Z and this time I am being much more careful about bellhousing alignment. These tips help. I bought the RobbMCperformance offset dowels - really nice. Using one of the Ram Concept 10.5 dual disc clutches and a Ram HRB for the GM T5. I needed to add a 3/8" block plate to the setup to get enough air gap (0.200" recommended) with the Sonic 153 tooth flywheel bellhousing you have a photo of (gray). That thing is no longer available unfortunately, at least from my research.

Because the bellhousing (which is a full depth 6.290" deep unit) is being set back and additional 3/8", I'm having to use an extended pilot bushing. The McLeod 8-109-4 piece is nice - it is a steel bushing that gets pressed into the larger 1.75" diameter recess in the back of the Chevy V8 crank that is aft of the hole where the typical pilot bushing is installed.. It comes with a typical oil-impregnated bronze pilot bushing for the Chevy pressed into it. It's advertised as "adjustable" as you tap the bronze pilot bushing in and out of it by varying amounts to fine tune where the pilot bushing rides on the input shaft. I suppose you could replace the bronze bushing with a roller pilot bearing for the Chevy V8.

I found it amusing that something I must have posted on HybridZ.org got included in the long post at the top - the story about a friend's brother's 57 Chevy being heavily damaged by a flywheel explosion. I was 16 when that happened (I wasn't in the car) and it taught me a very valuable lesson.

Cheers,
Pete
 
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welcome to the web site, glad to have you registered
 
Tremec T56


heres a option you might not have thought of,
Tremec T56 MAGNUM-F
6-speed manual performance transmission for the GM applications. This is a bolt-in swap for your 4th-gen Camaro or Firebird. This is the strongest torque/power rating of any 6-Speed transmission ever produced! Rated at a whopping 700 lb-ft of torque capacity.

T56 Magnum-F Wide Ratio 2.66 - Tick Performance



tremec-f-magnum-square__42298.1574455872.jpg
 
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