first hotrod build

hotrod coupe said:
does anyone make a spin on fuel filter to fit a remote oil filter bracket and is this a good idea?
Click to expand...
I can't say for sure - who knows what the additives in gasoline would do to an oil filter element?
But if you were to try it, I would only install it in the suction side, not pressure.
 
I was unclear, I was inquiring if anyone made fuel filters that would fit a remote oil filter bracket. My thought is it would give a large filtering area and hopefully save some money. I am not going to use an oil filter as a fuel filter. Basically my motor is done and bagged up, the 8.8 rear end is narrowed and I am welding the brackets on, working on running fuel lines and then building the transmission. Then minor assembly required.
 
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Below is about 1/2 the info that is provided in the Excel spreadsheet. DL the Excel file
for everything. It's not a spin-on, but it is easily replaceable.

FuelFilterSpecs.JPG

FP03_10MicronAeromotiveFilter_00125.jpg
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Attachments

  • Fuel Filter Specifications.xlsx
    12.4 KB · Views: 2
I am back working on the coupe, life intervened, rear end I finally got the ring and pinion gear shimmed properly all put together and installed under the coupe, fuel pump and filter mounted, feed and return lines are run to the front waiting for the new engine to be installed. The sprint exhaust I got hits the front fenders so I am slicing and dicing using pie cuts to rearset the headers back for clearance. all in all it seems I may be getting this running soon, its been a long build project that I never intended to be this entailed but enjoyable.
 
Need some help on finding how to figure my timing advance curve for this engine, I may have cut it a bit close for street gas. 8.54 dynamic compression ivc is 53.3 abdc advertised with a good quench gap don't have the exact gap but right in the recommended range. 219/225@.050 110lsa. Reading on the importance of proper advance curve but have not found anything for calculating what it should be. I understand these are for set up and after up and running real running is needed to fine tune, just need to have a decent starting point to work with.
 
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I am building my headers now, welders will have a riot when I post the pictures, I am not a welder no matter what the post office says. Pie cuts and a 6 in radius for the bends I will have frankenstein headers until I have a shop refab them in stainless if they work out. all mig welded because I can not tig weld at all, have tried for hours at work and have never been able to weld but I did fix the tig welder when the gas feed was broke.
 
chart3e1.jpg

I always start out with this and make changes as the conditions dictate
 
IMG_20191004_164539162.jpg left side header almost finished. sorry on download still trying to get the picture posting down.

index.php
 
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thats always a win/win situation in the long term
 
That's cool that you are building your own headers !!!

How many times did you have to start over?
How did you actually cut the angles for each segment?
How did you determine the dimensions?
 
I researched pie cutting pipe and found a 9 degree cut twisted 180 in the bandsaw gave 18 degree pie wedges, 5 pieces for a 90. Radius is controlled by how long each piece is, this method allows an infinitely variable radius to work with. This is used on the rear pipe to fit. No real start overs tack welded and masking tape mockup. Welded each piece so I could die grind any weld slag inside until I got my welding down, makes a remarkably smooth tube although I have found out 16 gauge headers are heavy. I knew the basic layout but wanted a larger radius for a smooth flow and did it all on the fly improvising. Size tubing, lengths, merge spike all information I have gotten from this site. Primary lengths are within 2 in of each other and overall about optimized for 6 grand rpm a bit above my build specs but still better than I have found on the market and gives me room to grow if I want to up the cam duration in the future.
 
Now that's some good info hotrod coupe!!!

I think the headers will flex alot less with 16 gauge when they don't have any support.
 
My plan is to have some support from a crossover tube just aft of the collector and support mount centered on the frame to allow some flex from the engine. My first use of urethane motor mounts and have no idea how much the motor will shift with torque twist. If this is a bad idea let me know, just thought a little support would be better and the crossover would help quiet the beast.
 
Rod/bar mounted to transmission mount bolts with flat rubber insulators that attach to collectors would work and allow for the engine twist/vibration.
 
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