1/2in holes!

Feels like it's been a while.

With the covid crap, long lines at the range.
And me not trusting my S10 to go out to the desert and getting me back in a timely manner i have not had a chance to try out my new fiddy.

I had planned to rebuild the transmission on that old s10, but with the motorhome project taking up garage space it's making it a pita.

Finally i decided to get something different, a 09 tahoe with the 5.3 and the 6l80.

Beautiful truck, added skid plates.
Used hp tuners to tweak the transmission settings.
Right as i was getting ready to finally hit the desert, i got a bad lifter tick at startup.

Quick Googling found the cylinder deactivation feature is a common culprit for lifter failure.
Starts out as a lifter tick when cold, and finally lifter collapse!

Hp tuners already ready to rock, flipped dod from true to false.
Instant difference!

To the desert i went, and finally shot the 500.

I LOVE IT!!!

Using the armscore bulk i bought, its accurate and pleasant.

VERY fun shooter.
 
Glad to hear your making progress:D and having some fun,
have you considered casting some gas check bullets and reloading your own ammo now?

gaschecknm1.png
gascheckmn3.png

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/dept/reloading/lead-bullet-casting/lee-moulds/-point-501-dia

https://www.bestpistolgrips.com/col...-wesson-460-500-x-frame-custom-pistol-grips-2

the best load for accuracy, after a great deal of testing.. 20 grains of blue dot
Its certainly not a max load but its very accurate and it certainly hammers hogs
I consider 22 grains of BLUE DOT under the lee 440 grain bullet ,
is a safe maximum powder charge, for the 500 mag revolver
the 440-500 grain hard cast bullets are the most accurate and deepest penetrating projectiles


https://www.starlinebrass.com/500-sw-mag-brass/

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply....00-s-and-w-carbide-3-die-set-with-shellholder

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/0007680291/500-smith-and-wesson-3-die-set
006-90991.jpg

just a bit of info on these lee "440 grain" 500 S&W bullet molds ,
with the gas check and lube on these cast bullets,
at least using my 95% WW alloy and 5% tin, mix,
the projectiles actually weigh about 470 grains
they are quite accurate (WITH THE GAS CHECKS)
http://www.sagesoutdoors.com/500-s-w-caliber-gator-gas-checks
the best load for accuracy, after a great deal of testing.. 20 grains of blue dot, (most accurate)up to
22 grains, which is still very safe, but the recoil increased noticeably and accuracy suffered very marginally



here's a heavier version (link below)the 495 grain mold cost considerably more and a slower powder like 31 grains of H110 would work better,
all choices involve a trade -off in some area, you might make gains in one area but they tend to result in a loss in some other area,
bullets heavier than about 500 grains are not as well stabilized by the rifle twist rate,
but if your hunting grizzlies it might gain you a bit more penetration due to increased sectional density and weight, with the linked 490-500 grain mold
again best alloy is 95% WW and 5% pure TIN
there's very little if anything gained going heavier than about 500 grains in a 500 S&W handgun, found from my testing
as you lose powder capacity in the case, with the longer cast bullet and as velocity falls off faster, when you load projectiles past 500 grains in barrels shorter than about 8"-10" than any benefit in the higher sectional density might gain you, a faster 500 grain bullet penetrates as deep or deeper in my testing than the 600-650 grain bullets did!

remember the bullet over all length (Cartridge Over All Length,) must be seated just short of cylinder length in a revolver for best accuracy
50-495B.png
 
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I've currently got and cast bullets for about (7) different 50 cal bullet molds
I recently traded a few car parts for a very lightly used 7.5" S&W 500 mag revolver,
cast bullets, suitable for use in a 500 mag revolver, obviously come in several weights and designs,
and if you have tried a bunch, of bullet weights and many different powder charges ,you eventually see
the revolvers tend to be more consistently accurate and produce very acceptable performance (PENETRATION) even at 100 plus yards ,
without the need for max pressure loads and excessively heavy projectiles.
now obviously what you intend to accomplish , with the handloaded ammo, and the ranges your shooting at effect your options
but I've had the most consistent accuracy , and very good penetration,
with gas check bullets cast at about a 18-20 hardness level and 1200fps-1500 fps in the 340 grain to 550 grain range.
500 mag ammo is ridiculously expensive unless you cast and hand load.




want a moderate recoil level? for 25 yard targets

https://www.sagesoutdoors.com/500-s-w-caliber-gator-gas-checks/




yeah you need to size and lube all revolver bullets to .501 diam.




play with this at about 1000fps-1200fps





blue dot powder works rather well in loads between 16-20 grains under these bullet weights,(depends on your intended velocity)


the lee bullet mold is very cheap(cost) and produces a nice bullet

21-22 grains of blue dot or 30 grains of H110 works as an accurate hunting load

the heavier bullets weighting more than about 550 grains that IVE tried and have loaded for a few of my friends ,produce more recoil but not a great deal more penetration if you handload to velocity levels that still allow accurate and consistent shot placement at 100 yards in my experience , (and that was 1200 fps-1400 fps per their requests)

in my 7.5" revolver.

consider a 500 grain hard cast bullet at 1400 fps pacts almost 2200 ft lbs and zips through a large hog hit in the chest end on, exiting the ham and still penetrates and exits a 4" tree behind the hog, I don't see the need for more power.
keep in mind magnum handgun bullets will require deep penetration to provide lethal results as velocities tend to be significantly lower than rifle hunting rounds provide
 
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https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010200848?pid=266944

006-90991.jpg



opplanet-desantis-right-hand-black-black-mamba-m40ba05z0-fdfeff.jpg


if you watch the video, its interesting, info, they ask you to comment on the attack and how the hunters handled the repeated attacks
obviously , we did not get enough info on the ammo used, the real conditions, distances, etc. we are told only that a 30/06 and 30/30 were used, nor where the hunters hit the bear to make rational & logical comments, based on facts and the damage done, or lack of damage to the bears anatomy.
now granted they stated its in the early 1950s so bullet tech sucked. (and its obvious shot placement sucked) , no bear takes repeated shots to the vital organs (even from a 30/30 or 30/06) and remains functional very long.
now in the 1980s-to- today, if hunting elk, I generally carry a 375 H&H or 340wby, or a 358 win BLR all loaded with 250-270 grain bullets , and a 44 mag revolver loaded with 310 grain hard cast bullets a big improvement over the guns and ammo quoted they used.
maybe I've been lucky , but every bear I've seen, or my buddy's have seen, or confronted in 5 decades ran at the sight of hunters, or at least after a gunshot to the ground, near them


related thread



cast handgun bullets are made from softer alloy than copper jacketed projectiles,
thus require a marginally slower twist rate to prevent stripping and loss of accuracy, this is generally not an issue if you follow bullet weight to bore diam. recommendations below

keep in mind the CAST bullet mass calculated vs the projectile length and diameter has a huge effect on the projectiles ability to penetrate well
and it also effects accuracy, factors like the rifling twist rate and CAST lead alloy/ bullet alloy also effect the potential results in most handguns using cast bullet work best ,with the CAST projectile length falling in the ratio of 1.75-2.5 times the bore diameter, shorter length projectiles occasional won't have sufficient bore contact area to grip rifling correctly, and stabilize, bullets length longer than about 2.75 times bore diam,
require significantly faster twist rates and are rarely accurate at longer ranges




http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...do-i-need-here-for-a-500-s-w-reloading.11917/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...let-mold-designs-ive-found-very-useful.15299/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tance-to-use-hard-cast-lead-projectiles.9875/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-hunting-revolver-should-concentrate-on.3744/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-hunting-revolver-should-concentrate-on.3744/

suggested CAST bullet weights in
REVOLVERS & PISTOLS
357 mag= 158 grain-180 grain
10mm= 170-210 grain
41 mag= 220 grain-250 grain
44 mag= 270 grain-320 grain
45 caliber -300 grain-350 grain
480 caliber 350 grain-400 grain
50 caliber 400 grain-480 grain




http://www.sagesoutdoors.com/500-s-w...tor-gas-checks
the best hunting load I found so far in my 500 mag revolver is the lee hard cast gas check bullet listed as weighting 440 grains,
but after lube and gas check are added they weight about 478 grains cast from 95% WW alloy and 5% pure tin.

is 22 grains of BLUE DOT POWDER, I have not chrono graphed them , but they are very consistent and accurate in my 7.5" revolver
and I've yet to recover a projectile I've shot hogs with.(even out at 60 plus yards)
the 500 S&W revolvers are heavy and a bit unwieldy in my opinion having fired all the common barrel length before making my selection,
if you select a barrel length over 7.5" which I feel is the ideal compromise in bullet velocity versus ease of carry in a shoulder holster

17708-DEFAULT-l.jpg
 
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https://ultimatereloader.com/2017/06/07/second-to-none-reloading-and-shooting-500-sw-magnum/


(LINK FOR BRASS)
 
I got asked what was the reason I did not own a 454 casull, or a 460 S&W magnum revolver?
yes admittedly much of this is personal opinion, based on decade's of ,my in the field experience
the truth is I have yet to see the need for more power than my 44 mag or 445 DWSM has in a back-up shoulder holster revolver, or even when hunting exclusively with a handgun, yes I bought a 500 mag, but its use was mostly out of curiosity, and while its impressive and I like it, I really have no reason to use it over my long familiar 44 mag or 445 DWSM revolvers as both shoot clear though all the deer & elk I've shot making more power not required. and having used a scoped revolver in the past I think it severely limits how handy a revolver is to carry easily or use.
well for smaller game a 44 mag has all the power and flat trajectory you need with far lower recoil, in a much lighter weight revolver.
well if your going to carry the X frame S&W I don't see the advantage of the 460 S&W over a nearly identical handgun in cartridge 500 S&W
the 500 S&W provides the option of using noticeably heavier projectiles with a larger cross sectional area, thus more impact damage,
if you carry a revolver in a holster its much less cumbersome if you use the factory iron sights, or a small optic rather than a scope.
yes the 460 with some loads provides a noticeably flatter trajectory, out past about 120 yards, but its been my experience that use of a handgun limited to holster use means , when you want accuracy past the about 120 yard limit most people have using iron sights, requires the optic sights, pistol scope or red dot sights' that makes the revolver weight almost as much as some carbines , and frankly not as easy to carry comfortably and if you have extensive experience , a heavy scoped revolvers is not easy to use, and if your realistic, you know there are options in use of a carbine, and cartridge choices that are much better than a handgun on larger game, and a decent carbine has several advantages in ease of handling and potential longer range accuracy.
or put differently larger bore, revolvers you carry easily in a hip or shoulder holster are handy and useful at shorter ranges, making them a great BACK-UP or defensive weapon that provides several powerful shots at closer ranges (let's say under 40 yards)
and a good 44 mag, 445 DWSM or even the 500 S&W mag have impressive power out to maybe 120 yards in well practical hands,
but once you start adding scopes, slings etc. to a revolver, that makes a carbine, and a shoulder sling a much more useful option.
if I expect to see elk or bears I carry a back-up revolver but if the shots to be taken at over 80 yards Id vastly prefer use of my SAKO 375 H&H carbine
Sako-AV-Mannlicher-375-HandH-w-Burris-1-3-4-5x20_101001625_9139_F2E028F1D8453C27.JPG


the-sw500-i-picked-up-today-compared-to-my-44-magnum-v0-binfe9zat0oa1.jpg

in the hands of a well practiced shot and using the correct hard cast bullet ammo a 44 mag has reliably and consistently killed most of the dangerous game in the world, yes the larger or more powerful revolvers , like the 445 DWSM, 454 casull 480 ruger, 460 S&W and 500 S&W
do have noticeably more power, and yes that's potentially useful but not always required.

WATCH THE VIDEO
( Id suggest using hard cast gas check bullets when hunting dangerous game as all hollow points reduce penetration_)
notice having a great deal more power in the 454 casull over the 44 mag has little difference in penetration.


https://www.opticsplanet.com/desantis-right-hand-black-black-mamba-m40ba05z0.html

YES IT REQUIRES a shoulder holster or chest cross draw to use comfortably
[IMG]

btw if you buy the holster buy this or a similar stiff pistol belt youll need it with that holster
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PDBK6J7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
opplanet-desantis-right-hand-black-black-mamba-m40ba05z0-fdfeff.jpg

this is fairly decent for the money,its a tight fit, new but loosens a bit with use,
Its the shoulder holster my friend uses with his 7.5" barrel 500 mag revolver
at a bit under $80 its on the lower end of prices

 
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