10s in c3?

grumpyvette

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64LS said:
This is going to be a Loud Proud and maybe and Ugly build too boot...LOL

Just hope it's not as hideous a color combination as Junkman threw up at me as what he thought was beautiful on his DC Heavy Hitter thread ...LOL

His taste in his Lady of choice is a good, can't say the same of a Knock Off of a Famous car created for Harley EARL by GM Design Department. First off what it took to build the original was a sense of design, with little body modification to pull it off. The only hard part was making the exhaust for car, the rest including the interior changes is easy to do. The knock off of car was easy, requiring little work and or money to do it.

Just cut holes for exhaust to past through, add a little treatment to stiffen up the opening and the body work is done. That leaves color choice and GM's was a good one. Complements the change. On the other hand, the Knock off version falls flat on it's face at least for me an others I showed post too...LOL.



So to maybe enhance JunkMan's knowledge in what it really takes to create a some what Custom on your on, I went out and purchased a project that had been started with Chassis I thought would work best for what I have/had in mind. I want to try and build a C2 that can turn 10s in 1/4 mile with less than 400 RWHP, on Street Tires car with minimum of 200 Treadwear tires, no DR's or Slicks used to get it done.

Part of what I'm going to try and do is show JunkMan a personalized build by me for me, not a COPY of what some one else has done. Some of what I'll be doing is taken from my 1964 Corvette named Lydia Build. Like her rocker panel, but with the body changes, I'm going to try and make the body's beltline look stock enough that most will not even realized it has been changed or that 95% of the rest of car's body panels will have been modified too. This build is about trying to make body look like it was designed to fit C6 Z51 tires and wheels along with suspension. I think I can pull off the body work for project, but the 10s in 1/4 with limitations I imposed on myself along with educating JunkMan, I may fall short on....LOl

But if you don't try, you can never succeed, an I'll be a trying...LOL

I'll try to start JunkMan's education with my next post(s) on build... Hope he and others enjoy seeing car built and raced this year.

Picture(s) of 1964 project car and chassis. Chassis is Street Shop Inc, C2 with C6 suspension.









Why I got the car for project. Part of what was uncovered when former owner had body stripped.


64LS;2854186 said:
64LS;2854186 said:
Seems the FLexplate Scattershield is multi use across all Chevy transmissions, so you can run into fitment issues depending on transmission housing design. My transmission is 4l80E based one that has ears to bolt up Dust shield to, that interfered with installation of shield. It's illegal to trim shield, and because transmission has a Lifetime warranty on it, was hesitant to trim ears off case. Contacted Manufacture and emailed them pictures and they gave be permission to trim ears and warranty will be uneffected. Will have to make a dust shield out of fiberglass to take care of that problem.







Next problem is modifications needed to both Firewall and Transmission tunnel because of both Transmission and Flexplate shields. With "Lydia" my other 64 coupe that has same transmission we only had to make two minimal tunnel mods one for transmission cooling lines and one so TCM wire harness plug could be removed.

Flexplate shield also will make it a lot harder to drop transmission on this car Vs my other 64 as top transmission bolt can not be removed from engine compartment. Will have to remove it from underneath car if its possible to get a socket on it with a long extension. We are trying to get enough clearance between Trans shield and tunnel to do it.

We sat the body down on frame to cut tunnel and Firewall out to fit transmission with shields. Hope by doing this there will be enough clearance between shields and body to get to all the bolts to remove trans when we shim body up to proper height off frame.

First cut.



Then a lot more cutting to fit. Firewall opening has moved upwards quite a bit as you can see from the original sections of it bolted back on to scab in new tunnel opening to.















You can see passenger foot room has been reduced by adding trans shield.


In my case Street car is the primary function. Thats where spending money on a build is worth while. Trying to go fast in 1/4 mile is just to make it a rare breed car with hang on license plates...

Car will be N/A. No power adders or Spray. I'll bump HP without those if need be.

The engine I'm using is a GM stock crate engine of one used in C6 vettes, 427 CI. Dyno's at 394 RWHP right now with LS2 honeycomb MAF to restrict air flow.

I'm using Mustang Dyno numbers to stay under 400 RWHP as Dyno jet numbers are within 51 HP of GM crank rating for engine, which are not realistic when you consider drivetrain % lost, LS2 MAF and homemade 1 3/4" exhaust headers.

I'm not into how much HP engine has, I'm into how little it makes....

I'm a big guy.

There is nothing worst than getting your butt kicked by a little guy and same can be said about getting beat by a car with less HP than your bragging about yours having..




http://robrobinette.com/et.htm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php
(this calculator assumes its rear wheel hp)

your car and the effort your putting into building it, and your ability to post clear pictures of your project, is very impressive, Im forced to point out that to reach your stated goal, your cars power to weight ratio, aerodynamic drag and drive train efficiency,tires and suspensions ability to transfer power to the pavement all come into play here.
yes an impressive start , and if correctly assembled your going to have one very nice car when your done, but I would NOT be so dead set on a 10 second E.T.that only getting close might ruin the build, it will still be a nice car.
the 4l80e TRANS AND ls SERIES ENGINE CERTAINLY HAVE THE POTENTIAL TO GET THE CAR INTO THE TENS but I'd suspect the power level required will exceed 400 hp.
 
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