1961 Chevrolet Corvair 95 Rampside

Discussion in 'trucks' started by 55C150, Aug 2, 2018.

  1. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    Right, but you need a good battery and starter as Maniacmechanic told me and that for a better Alternator I thought.
     
  2. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    a 160-200 amp alternator,
    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/is-my-alt-dead.6964/#post-22890

    1996 vette
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-478648
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-378068

    1985 corvette
    https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...MInZDL6u-X3gIVCo7ICh3cVgA5EAQYAiABEgKGnPD_BwE

    http://www.powerstream.com/Amps-Watts.htm#amps-watts


    and a battery thats rated at at least 850 cold crank amps ,

    and a quality gear reduction starter,

    the better quality versions of the gear reduction high torque starters tend to work rather well
    [​IMG]
    Tuff Stuff Performance 6772B
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-6772b/overview/make/chevrolet

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/problem-with-starter.1646/#post-65015



    several good fluid coolers equipped with electrical fans,
    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/
    [​IMG]
    http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HFM-ZFB16S&N=700+320174+4294775279+115&autoview=sku
    [​IMG]
    http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DER-13720&N=700+115&autoview=sku

    http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DER-15800&N=700+115&autoview=sku


    [​IMG]
    http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM-12318&N=700+115&autoview=sku
    are almost always a great up-grade, in a serious performance car

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/multi-meters.3110/#post-71867

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/battery-charger-for-the-shop.928/#post-55775

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/battery-life.11172/#post-50085

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/current-draw.11310/#post-51526
     
  3. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    I think 160 Amps is more than enough. I still have a good starter and electric fan. I have no stereo, AC, Heater, power windows or power seats or anything else that needs much amps.
    My ignition is around 8 amps. My current battery has 750 cold crank amps.
     
  4. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ult-9004-003

    Optima Red Battery.
    Group size 78/34.
    Top post and side posts on it.
    In my 1963 Gp.
    Great Battery.
    Just do not let it go dead too often
    They do not like.
    CS144 Or built by me an awesome power electrical station with Red Top.
     
  5. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    That must be 35 amps per fan and 2 fans makes 70 amps???
     
  6. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    So we picked up the 1964 Buick engine with trans in Bavaria. It was great to see many friends and Club brothers when we was there for two days.

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Ready for disassemble. The trans is a 3 speed with BOP bolt pattern.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2018
  7. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The valves were hitting the pistons on all cylinders

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Looks like a good rebuilder. What are the plans for this engine?
     
  9. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    We only use the cylinder heads and intake for our running 300 in the Corvair for weight loss.
    We storage this engine as spare, same with the trans.
    When the Corvair is ready for the street, hopefully in two years. I will rebuild this engine to have a ready to go spare engine or maybe I will do a little performance things on this engine and switch than over to the rebuild one. We will see. It depemds on what my girlfriend wants to do and how high her Budget for the rebuild is.
     
  10. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    Did some see these door locks / door handle and can tell of which year and car it fit?
    The keys we have did not work with the locks.
    So I tried to order new locks, but all locks I found for a 1961 Corvait 95 look different to what we have.

    This is what we have

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. T-Test

    T-Test Well-Known Member

    That looks pretty clean. Must have been rebuilt at some point and had a high lift cam put in to cause the valves to hit like that or the heads shaved a whole bunch. They are good engines but can't stand too many RPMs.
     
  12. T-Test

    T-Test Well-Known Member


    After market parts don't always look the same, but if it fits the hole and lines up with the arm and shaft, use them. New GM parts no longer available. if all else fails, use electric door openers with a remote--after market.
     
  13. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

  14. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    Maybe too much rpm, thats what I hear many times after showing the pics around
     
  15. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    It looks like the timing chain broke at one time with the engine running.
     
  16. T-Test

    T-Test Well-Known Member

    Those were not zero tolerance engines in those days. Valves couldn't hit if it jumped time.
     
  17. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    The piston is always chasing the exhaust valve.

    I do not know.
    What I suspect.
    Maybe your right.
    There might be a Vintage ISKY Or Crower Cam in that Buick 300 V8. Only companies that I can think of that would make back then for a Buick 300.
     
  18. T-Test

    T-Test Well-Known Member

    As I said in post #51
     
  19. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    Yesterday I got the valves out. They are dirty but straight, same at the pushrods.
    Today is cylinder head cleaning day. I put one head in a tub with soap and some chalk remover. I will let it in there for a few hours and will do some cleaning with brushes, sponge and more.
     
  20. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    be careful, with the use of solvents, and abrasives when cleaning major components,
    many are helpful , some can cause catastrophic damage, if improperly used,
    or parts are left in contact with them over extended time,
    detergents like a 1/4 cup of dawn, in a 5 gallon bucket of warm water,
    used with a brush , to break down surface crud work well,[​IMG]

    followed by a higher pressure washer can do wonders are removing dirt and grease then dry the parts immediately with high pressure air and coat machined surfaces with WD40, other wise many will form surface rust in only minutes

    [​IMG]


    related threads

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...an-aluminum-intake-manifold.14410/#post-74196

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-76350
     

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