1977 Camaro Z28 Resto Mod Build

Erik

Active Member
Well, it seems like this is the recommended place to start a new build thread, so here goes!
I purchased a 1977 Z28 in August of 2013. It was a former drag car that had no engine, no trans, no interior!
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This was all well and good, because I wanted to replace all of that stuff anyway. This is (was?) a California car, so the rust was not awful, but it had its share. I purchased a rotisserie to make it easier to work on the car.
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The roof of the car was pretty rough, so I spent a lot of time sanding, and media blasting the roof (scary, but I think it worked without warping anything).
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The "after"
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I have spent the last 2.5 years stripping the paint, and mostly repairing the floor pans and most recently the trunk and drop-off pans. The outside of the car is in epoxy primer now, as well as most of the floors.
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I have painted the underside of the car in PPG single stage semi-gloss black
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I am just about done with the underside rust repairs, and hope to have the car off the rotisserie soon. Then! On to the fun stuff! The plans for the car are:
RideTech 4 link with RideTech Level 2 coil overs front and rear. RideTech Tubular A-arms up front
Wilwood 12.88" 6 piston discs in the front, 12.19" 4 piston discs in the rear
Moser M9 rear end with 3.73 gears
Tremec T56 6 speed wide ratio trans
And the big daddy (and deserving of this thread location):
GM eRod LSA crate engine (this is a California car)

I plan on keeping the stock subframe, and running without subframe connectors (for now). This is not a race car, I doubt it will ever see track time. It is also not a daily driver, more like a weekly driver :) I am not going to show quality, or perfection. This is my first resto job, and pretty much everything you see here is the first time I have done it.

The paint scheme is planned as Ford Ruby Red Tri-coat with painted 1974 Z28 stripes. Here is a test I did on the deck lid:
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And a close-up of the paint. The black is Ford Tuxedo Black metallic, the white is Ford White Platinum metallic (tri-coat). Those last two colors are on my Ford Flex, so I knew what they would look like :)
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I was testing vinyl as a stencil here which I cut by hand, so don't worry about the wonkiness there.
Anyway, I am still a couple of years out before this baby is on the road again. I am looking forward to starting the body work soon.
Thanks!
 
Your on the way to a fun ride Erik. I will be watching, don't be afraid to ask any questions. These guys are all like a brotherhood and someone will have a answer for you. Welcome aboard!
 
Nice Work Eric !
Talk to Bidman about Subframe connectors.
I Highly Recommend them.
Most body flex is eliminated .
Save the Bodywork & your paintjob !
 
I agree, I am going to do it to my nova for sure. I am going to be pulling approx 510hp/520tq with open exhaust I don't want it to twist any and ruin the work I have done. Subframe connectors aren't that expensive considering what they prevent.
 
Yeah, I just don't want to weld the car together. It is nice to be able to take the front end off. Are the bolt-in ones any good?
 
I am planning on the bolt in type myself! Once I get it right I might weld the rear and bolt the front and also bolt to the floor pans. That will leave the front end removable.
 
NICE WORK ERIK
its amazing what can be done to restore a car,
if you have a few skills and experience,
and a place to work with the correct tools!
darn few people have all four assets,...
and even fewer have the motivation ,and honesty ,
to do in correctly when no ones watching
 
Yes , I'm amazed at the quality for your first time....... congrats on a job well
done. Looking forward to reading this build thread.
 
NICE WORK ERIK
its amazing what can be done to restore a car,
if you have a few skills and experience,
and a place to work with the correct tools!
darn few people have all four assets,...
and even fewer have the motivation ,and honesty ,
to do in correctly when no ones watching
Thanks Grumpy! Nice words there
 
I am planning on the bolt in type myself! Once I get it right I might weld the rear and bolt the front and also bolt to the floor pans. That will leave the front end removable.
I had thought about the Hotchkis connectors before, I forgot that they are bolt-in in the front. So, I will those back on my list :)
 
Nice job on the floor pans! Looking forward to following this thread.

Subframe connectors (along with solid body mounts) will really stiffen up the chassis allowing your suspension to work as well as it can. Ride quality will be better and handling will be better. When considering connectors look at how low some of them hang. Your car's gonna be pretty low with the Ridetech stuff and low hanging connectors will hit speed bumps etc.
 
Big milestone for me. I finally got all the repairs done in the trunk area and the trunk drop 0ff panels. Everything from the top side is painted in black epoxy, so you can't really tell what is going on. I have the passenger quarter panel lower section to repair and a few other things then I will prime and paint the bottom of the car. At that point the 4 link hardware goes on, and then the car comes off the rotisserie!
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Thanks guys. I am finishing up the passenger quarter panel repair today. Will post pics later
 
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Tacked in
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Welded in
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Ready for epoxy! I am doing the final body work later, so that will do it for now on this panel
 
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