1977 Camaro Z28 Resto Mod Build

For anyone following along who might wonder why the rotors are directional it's because high quality brake rotors like these have curved vanes inside the rotors ( instead of straight like many stock ones) that pull air from the center of the rotor hat through the middle of the rotor while rotating. It's really only needed when braking hard repeatedly like on an auto X , road course or spirited driving like a canyon run.

They're more concerned about the calipers because the pistons are different sizes on the high quality multi piston brakes so the forward part of the brake shoe has more pressure to avoid squealing or chattering. As the pads wear you'll notice a taper to the pads with the forward edge being worn more.
 
For anyone following along who might wonder why the rotors are directional it's because high quality brake rotors like these have curved vanes inside the rotors ( instead of straight like many stock ones) that pull air from the center of the rotor hat through the middle of the rotor while rotating. It's really only needed when braking hard repeatedly like on an auto X , road course or spirited driving like a canyon run.

They're more concerned about the calipers because the pistons are different sizes on the high quality multi piston brakes so the forward part of the brake shoe has more pressure to avoid squealing or chattering. As the pads wear you'll notice a taper to the pads with the forward edge being worn more.

Excellent explanation. Thanks
 
Fun times! The Moser rear end housing showed up last Friday. It is a fabricated 9" housing (they call it their M9). We have 3.89:1 gears with a WaveTrac differential. 31 spline axles, an aluminum third member with a 1350 pinion and Wilwood Dynalite disc brakes. We put it under the car on Monday and got all the brackets installed. They are just tacked on. I am sending the housing back to Moser to finish the welding (I can't weld metal this thick, and I would not trust my welds even if I could). Here are some pics though!
This is how the axle housing came
20160729_111238_zpsgbbra6zo.jpg

And the aluminum third member with the WaveTrac
20160729_111254_zpssxj1tazi.jpg

After tacking on all the brackets for the RideTech 4 link
20160801_143653_zps2kjyyajn.jpg

And finally, a look at something on the car at ride height!
20160801_112306_zpsye5dcvnj.jpg
 
I love the pictures, and its always nice to see guys using high quality parts in any build!
but I see the comment on the "can,t weld metal that thick" and have to ask what your using for a welder?

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/mig-or-tig.72/

now please don,t think I'm for an instant, I'm suggesting your wrong, in having a skilled and experienced professional weldor,
do your cars welding jobs, as that is the smart route to take, especially if you, don,t feel 100% confident in doing the work,
or your equipment is not up to the job at hand.
Ive been welding for 40 years and
IF I felt the least bit like any job might be better handled by an experienced pro, I would ALSO,darn sure have the job done that way,
so I had little worry about the quality of the welds (I don,t want to worry either)
even though I own several good welding machines fully capable of welding 1/2" thick plate steel.
I'm simply curious as to the welder you have on hand and want to point out that this is one reason the choice in shop welders is something you generally don,t want to scrimp on or select mostly on low price! so its simply a discussion starter


I bought this miller 252 MIG for my shop, but I now see other options I was un-aware of at the time I purchased it
252mig.jpg

http://www.welders-direct.com/mm5/m...re_Code=WD&Product_Code=907321&Category_Code=

I already owned and used a lincoln ARC welder
ranger225-BIG.jpg


http://www.welders-direct.com/mm5/m..._Code=WD&Product_Code=K2857-1&Category_Code=L

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-250.html
east250.jpg

http://www.eastwood.com/tig-welders-eastwood-tig-ac-dc-welder.html?reltype=2&parent_id=50869
TIG WELDER
p42429.jpg
 
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It Takes A Good 220 VAC MIG Welder to get Real Nice Deep Penetrating Weld beads on Rear Differential Axle housings.
What I use when I have to weld on them.
Miller 225 works nice for me.
Tigging works too.

There is at times there is no Subsitute For Stick Arc Welding.
My choice for Steel 1/4" & thicker.
 
No offense taken Grumpy. I bought an Eastwood MIG 135 since I was planning only to do sheet metal. I had never welded before starting this car, and I still pretty much suck at it. However, sheet metal is something you can generally fix if you screw it up. If I hosed the axle tube or the brackets, I would be screwed. I have always said I would not do any structural (frame, suspension, etc.) welding on THIS car. Maybe my next one. I will invest in a TIG, or a 220V MIG (or both, who knows!) on my next project, if there is one. Thanks!
 
a good quality 130-140 amp MIG is almost ideal for body sheet metal welding jobs,its a darn good choice if your unlikely to use it on much more than auto sheet steel, and rarely over about 3/16" thick metal
much superior to the cheap flux core wire welders I see a few guys using.


http://www.welders-direct.com/mm5/m...t_Code=THA-W1003141&Attributes=Yes&Quantity=1

http://www.welders-direct.com/mm5/m...e_Code=WD&Product_Code=907612&Category_Code=M

https://www.weldingmart.com/lincoln-power-mig-140c-k2471-2

Ive used a friends lincoln mig several times on body sheet metal at his shop with good results, but remember as you turn the amps up the duty cycle goes down and the cool down time between welding sessions increases
PM140C.jpg


http://www.welders-direct.com/mm5/m..._Code=WD&Product_Code=K2471-2&Category_Code=L

keep in mind shield gas and wire selection,
surface prep, plus experience,
all effect the weld quality,
and the larger amp migs can generally do the jobs that the lower amp rated migs can do, while the larger amp migs can also do the thicker stuff that out of the lower amp migs effective range, one other difference is DUTY CYCLE, the larger amp rated migs can be used almost constantly at the lower amp settings without over-heating or needing cool down time, something not generally true in the lower amp range migs

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/shield-gas-selection-for-welding.1108/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/mig-wire-selection.1283/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/mig-or-tig.72/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/most-versital-shop-welder.1594/
 
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Thanks for all the good info! I will def. upgrade to a nice Lincoln or something in the 220 size on my next welder. The Eastwood 135 (with argon/co2) has worked pretty well for me. At least as far as I know! I have never used another welder, so maybe my welds could look better than they do. Who knows!
 
When you start trying to use the 135 up near or above it's limits on thicker pieces than cold rolled sheet metal (and you will) you'll find that if you preheat the pieces with a propane torch you'll get better penetration and puddle flow quicker.
 
It Takes A Good 220 VAC MIG Welder to get Real Nice Deep Penetrating Weld beads on Rear Differential Axle housings.
What I use when I have to weld on them.
Miller 225 works nice for me.
Tigging works too.

There is at times there is no Subsitute For Stick Arc Welding.
My choice for Steel 1/4" & thicker.
I agree Brian, if it was me I would have move the rearend housing around and welded it myself, but thats me!
 
If I had any experience welding thick steel, I may have done it myself. However, I don't. Also, as I mentioned before there is the back brace which requires special cutting and also the super cool "Display Red" powdercoat finish that I had not seen anywhere but Moser.
Here is an example of what it "should" look like when it comes back.
0013.jpg
 
Its getting done right none the less Erik.
One hell of a Nice Camaro build.
 
Build your Camaro as you see fit Eric.
Let nothing stop you.

I would like to share my 1970-1/2 Trans Am here.
I am working on it daily on my own.
 
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Facebook is all a Mechanic needs today.
Connect to Millions in a Second.
Your own completed projects required.
Proof you did all the work yourself .
Your own You Tube Videos of you driving.
More effective than Forums.
 
That Fab 9 housing is the way to go! Should have done it on my car many years ago instead of modifying a GM axle by cutting and welding Ford ends etc. so I could run the Moser tapered axles. Could have saved myself a lot of time and aggravation by going Fab 9 and I would have a better rear for only several hundred more than I spent.
 
That Fab 9 housing is the way to go! Should have done it on my car many years ago instead of modifying a GM axle by cutting and welding Ford ends etc. so I could run the Moser tapered axles. Could have saved myself a lot of time and aggravation by going Fab 9 and I would have a better rear for only several hundred more than I spent.

Yeah, it is pretty sweet. I had a POS 10 bolt in my car, so I was looking at new no matter what.
 
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