1994 K1500 Suburban 4X4, Another SBC Bites The Dust

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Calling it the night.
I will have the Suburban running soon.
Likely in the morning.
Have to connect starter motor wiring, install the torque converter bolts, replace an oil cooler line with a new one I have, Install the 4x4 oil filter adapter with bypass valve, Recheck TDC#1, Install my distributor cap & ignition wires, & install the Y-pipe exhaust.
About 2-3 hours work & start it .
 
Routine work from here.
Drive the Suburban to Joliet tomarrow & back home if I get it done in the morning .
 
Show us your recheck of TDC#1. It seems like no matter what every tv show has a new motor that won't start. The these world class mechanics always have the dist. 180 off.
 
If you touched up the black parts under the hood you could park at the Saturday night park and shine!
 
chromebumpers said:
Show us your recheck of TDC#1. It seems like no matter what every tv show has a new motor that won't start. The these world class mechanics always have the dist. 180 off.
Click to expand...
Up at 5 AM.
Just going to snap photos.
Don't have time to get detailed.
Its going to run this morning & then drive to Joliet.
Ed & me have work to do.
 
You guys should be working on your own cars & trucks non stop.
No excuses.
I put my engine & Suburban together all alone & no garage.

Likely last chance.
Bam wants to end all.
Hillary too.
 
I am working on my own & doing my own thing without anyone's help.
What are You guys doing today ?
 
Good work!!!

Richard, I always set #6 valves on overlap when installing a distributor.

100% fool proof method.

Thanks
Randy
 
The firing order of an SBC is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

So a way to find TDC 1 compression (cam is in the right place) is when number six has "exhaled" (as 180 degrees out) and beginning to inhale a fresh charge. The "overlap" is spotted by keeping an eye on the rockers of #6
 
DorianL said:
The firing order of an SBC is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

So a way to find TDC 1 compression (cam is in the right place) is when number six has "exhaled" (as 180 degrees out) and beginning to inhale a fresh charge. The "overlap" is spotted by keeping an eye on the rockers of #6
Click to expand...
So what am I looking at with the 2 valves? The intake valve up and the exhaust spring just starting to compress?
Next step, line up the rotor pointing at number "1"?
 
I'm used to pulling #1 plug and guessing the pressure against my finger over the plug hole is the best it's going to be then play with the distributor til I get the rotor pointing at #1 wire with the distributor vacuum pointing in the factory position.
 
Oh, sorry - yes.

My personal way starts by lining up the pointer on the timing chain cover (if known to be accurate) on TDC 0. (No advance or retard)

Then I like to try and get rotor pointing straight forward and "knight" the front post of the distributor as post 1 with vacuum advance pot out of the way point at a 90 degree toward passenger side.

Some like having the rotor slightly past the post to get in a bit of initial, some advance the crank. Rightly or wrongly, I find that for an initial fire up 0.0 works best for me.

If the distributor uses a magnetic trigger, I like using a digital multi meter hooked up to the trigger wires. The DMM on -|>|- (if I recall correctly) "beeps" as the rotor swings by post 1 sending a magnetic pulse. (Could probably set the DMM to do the same with a point opening.) This way, by listening and twiddling, I can get the actual pulse of the distributor close enough.

The slack in the timing chain is always the unknown for me. To offset that I always ling up TDC by cranking the crank o_O forward and never backing up if I missed my mark - this avoids slack.

That'd be my way...
 
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