1995 corvette fan motor quit working

[grumpyvette]

Help!! 1994 Vette with AC running. I understand both fans are supposed to run. Where do I start looking?

infrared thermometers are a very useful tool to track down issues with tuning, or mal functioning sensors , without verified facts your guessing.
this is the most consistently accurate I.R temp gun I've used for testing[/img]

http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/e...1100200223789&utm_content=All Extech Products
INFRARED TEMP GUN
Wide temperature range from -58 to 1832°F (-50 to 1000°C)
any time that your dealing with a potential temperature issue or a trouble issue where , knowing the exact temperature vs what a gauge might say, it helps to have a handy and accurate infrared temp gun handy to locate and confirm heat, levels.
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-dig ... 98674.html

having a fluke multi meter, or at least a functioning multi meter, and an assortment of test leads helps

FLUKE is the brand of choice but they are expensive, shop around, Ive still got the original fluke multi meter I bought in HIGH SCHOOL and it STILL WORKS Ive purchase several imported multi meters from harbor freight , in the last 10 years alone and only one still works
http://www.fluke-direct.com/shop/itemDe ... urer=FLUKE

http://www.fluke-direct.com/shop/catego ... TERS&path=

this looks interesting with a discount coupon its discounted to about $169.99 until 4/30/18 plus $49.99 for a two year 100% warranty
if you purchase a ZR13 auto code scanner, from HF,
you need this info
DOWN-LOAD AND PRINT IT OUT!

https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/63000-63999/Q63806.pdf

https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/63000-63999/63806.pdf

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...996-corvettes-got-me-scratching-my-head.7499/

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore,f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=zr13

1995-96 corvette cooling hoses

(1) pull trouble codes
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2697
(2) GET A SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR YEAR VETTE, and a multi meter
swap plugs on the fans to see if the other fan runs when its swapped with the known working electrical wire plug in fan connections, if it won,t its the fan itself,as both fans use the same connections
ROCK AUTO SELLS REPLACEMENT FAN MOTORS
ACDELCO Part # 158404 {#22104439} GM Original Equipment

$63.79

the coolant temp sensor for the PCM is on the water pump a black and a yellow wire.

every mechanic needs an ANALOG multi meter for testing capacitors with a micro farad scale, AND a DIGITAL MULTI METER

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=63&p=3403&hilit=vats#p3403

use of a shop manual and multi meter can be very helpful
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html
READ THIS THREAD

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=3954

1984-1995 corvettes can have the fan tested buy using a paper clip between ports (A) and (B) and turning the ignition key two clicks (not starting the engine)
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/c4-c5-corvette-trouble-codes.2697/#post-18904
To recover ECM codes from the 1984 through 1993 Corvette, place a short as shown below between pins "A" and "B" on the ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link) connector. This connector is located under the dash just to the right of the steering column and has space for 12 pins although not all of the cavities will be populated.

.

Turn the ignition switch to "On" but do not start the engine.

Depending on the model year, either the "Check Engine Light" or the "Service Engine Soon" will begin to flash.

As the code display sequence begins, you will see a flash followed by a pause and then two flashes. This is the indication for the number "12". The number 12 is a delimiter intended to show where the ECM code display starts and stops.

Code 12 will flash three times and then any stored codes will flash. When all codes have been displayed or if there are no stored codes, the number 12 will again flash three times.

For example, a problem with the EGR system (code 32) will be shown as 12, 12, 12, 32, 32, 32, 12, 12, 12.

This would be displayed on the Check Engine/Service Engine Soon light like this:

12: flash (pause), flash, flash, (long pause)
12: flash (pause), flash, flash, (long pause)
12: flash (pause), flash, flash, (long pause)
32: flash, flash, flash (pause) flash, flash (long pause)
32: flash, flash, flash (pause), flash, flash (long pause)
32: flash, flash, flash (pause), flash, flash (long pause)
12: flash (pause), flash, flash, (long pause)
12: flash (pause), flash, flash, (long pause)
12: flash (pause), flash, flash (long pause)
The ECM code display will repeat until you turn off the ignition switch and remove the short.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/c4-c5-corvette-trouble-codes.2697/#post-18904

Manually spin the fan blade of the fan that doesn't work to
verify the fanmotor isn't seized.

The fans use 3 relays mounted on the driver side
on the end of the radiator.

Primary cooling fan is an the driver side.
Secondary cooling fan is on the passenger side.

There are two modes of fan operation.
Both fans at half speed. 6 volts
Both fans at high speed. 12 volts.

There are two control lines the PCM grounds to
enable the fans.

PCM grounds the Dark Green wire for low speed.
Relay #1 is energized.

PCM grounds both the Dark Green wire and a Dark Blue
wire for high speed.
All three relays #1, #2 and #3 are energized.

Three fuses protect the circuits.
Fanfuse 5 amp located on passenger side of the dash.
This must be good because you say one fan does run.

Primary coolantfan 30 amp Maxifuse located under the hood.
Must be good if the driver side fan works.

Secondary coolantfan 40 amp Maxifuse located under the hood.

You can identify the relays by the color of the wires that
go to the relay sockets.

Relay #1 has the following colored wires.
Pink, Dark Green, Red and a Light blue wire.

Relay #2
Pink, Dark Blue, White and 2 Black wires.

Relay #3
Pink, Dark Blue, Red and a White wire.

To test the fans turn the ignition On.

Manually ground the control lines. Stick a nail
or probe, jumper wire etc... into the bottom of
the relay socket and ground the Dark Green wire.

Both fans should run at low speed.

Ground the Dark Green wire and the Dark Blue
wire and both fans should run at high speed.

Another method you can use is to carefully pry/remove
the plastic cover off of the relays. You can then
manually energize the relays by pushing down
on the metal plate.

Push down on the plate on #1 relay and both fans
should run at slow speed.

Push down the metalplate on all relays and both
fans should run at high speed.

The relays are all the same so you can swap them around.

these charts are for the 1985-89 vette cooling fans

READ THESE LINKS AND SUB LINKS
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cooling-off-that-c4-corvette.3954/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-air-conditioner-on-cooling.12232/#post-59597

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-scratcher-cooling-issue.3010/#post-84329

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ans-cooler-on-a-c4-corvette.10514/#post-44478

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/i-need-a-new-lt1-water-pump.10723/

 

[Grumpy]

1996 radiator cooling fan relay how to test

Hello all, I have a 1996 Vette LT-4, radiator cooling fans are not coming on. I have checked the fuse panel on the passenger side of the dash, I have also checked the maxi fuses in front on the battery. am now desirous of checking the cooling fan relays, how to do this? thanks in advance for any/all guidance


There are three relays involved.
You can identify the relays by the color of the wires at each relay socket.

Turn the ignition On.
At the relay socket.
Ground the Dark Green wire and both fans should run at low speed.
Ground both the Dark green wire and the Dark Blue wire and both fans should run at hi speed.

the main issue most guys seem to have is they get overwhelmed...,
by looking at the whole cars electrical cooling system,
vs breaking the problem down to testing individual components,
after checking the fuses are good and the fans are good the relays are suspect,
pulling trouble codes is a start, having a multi meter with several test leads helps
the test procedures, required are generally written up in the shop manual ,reading and following those test procedures, helps

BTW if youve replaced all the related fuses and the three fan relays, and your still having intermittent cooling fan start issues check that
G117 COOLING FAN GROUND CAREFULLY, (left front frame)
I find that it is rather common to have corrosion issues on that ground location.
(the G104, G105, G106, G107 , on the back of the drivers side cylinder head and bell housing can and do come loose or get forgotten on some engine repairs so check those of the dash or gauges etc are intermittent or not functioning

having a wide assortment of different multi meter test leads available is a huge benefit while testing
the clip test leads that test thru a wires insulation without much damage are a big help

yes its to your benefit too pull trouble codes and own and read a shop manual
every mechanic needs an ANALOG multi meter for testing capacitors with a micro farad scale, AND a DIGITAL MULTI METER

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=63&p=3403&hilit=vats#p3403

use of a shop manual and multi meter can be very helpful
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html
READ THIS THREAD

 

[Grumpy]

its worth the time and effort to fabricate two sets of custom test leads

one set needs test probe ends with the far end having alligator clips large enough too clip firmly on the two battery post NED ? POS terminals

one set needs clips with nail bed ends with the far end having alligator clips large enough too clip firmly on the two battery post NED ? POS terminals
both sets should have a red (battery)and a black (GROUND)test lead

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...electric-fan-in-4-easy-steps.7774/#post-72112

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-scratcher-cooling-issue.3010/#post-7936

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/that-c4-corvette-cooling-fans-issue.16049/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/multi-meters.3110/#post-8302

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maf-burn-off-relay-info.661/#post-6336

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...n-over-your-head-in-projects.4687/#post-21852

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rical-glitches-in-newer-cars.5492/#post-18411

I bought a relay, but I don't know how to hook it up. all I see are a few weird numbers and strange symbols, what do they mean?
-a standard bosch-style relay will have 4 or 5 numbered leads (30, 85, 86, 87, and sometimes 87a). why they picked those numbers, I have no clue; but I can tell what they hook up to.

• 
  
  
  • Lead color code

• 
  
  
  • Black: Coil supply

• 
  
  
  • White: Coil supply

• 
  
  
  • Red: SPDT normally open

• 
  
  
  • Blue: SPDT common

• 
  
  
  • Yellow: SPDT normally closed

-30 = constant [positive (+)] power (usually wired directly to car battery)
-85 = coil ground (wired to the negative (-) battery terminal or any grounded metal panel in the car)
-86 = coil power (wired to the control source. could be a switch, or it could be the car's IGN or ACC circuit.)
-87 = switched [positive (+)] power output. (when the relay coil is powered, lead/pin 87 is connected to lead/pin 30)
-87a = [on 5 lead/pin relays only] this lead/pin is connected to lead/pin 30 when the coil is NOT powered.

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https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/pomona-electronics/6344/501-1355-ND/737671