383 SBC genII combination

philly

solid fixture here in the forum
so, since i got the corvette at 150k (thats around the earth 6 times and counting!) the thought has been rolling around in my mind of rebuilding the motor and starting fresh. ive been reading alot and comparing alot of different parts combinations and ive narrowed down my combination to look something like this.

rotator: eagle 383 forged stroker kit (with 5cc valve relief)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-b12108030

cylinder heads: AFR 195cc eliminator heads "competition flow" with 55cc chambers

http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=27_28

intake: edelbrock rpm air gap lt4

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7109

I'll probably end up with a 58mm t/b and ill keep my 1000 cfm maf housing

exhaust: ive already got an X pipe in place of the pre muffler and ill retain the stock mufflers and pipes, however i would really like a set of headers that arent complete garbage. melrose maybe?

given the data from the displacement, head flow and the intake manifold operating range, i would appreciate some insight as to whether or not i am choosing a cam correctly.

according to the math i am looking for something with a 106 LSA, between .600" and .650" lift with about 245-255* duration... does that sound correct?

also i am considering, for the rest of the combo for the car. a larger trans cooler in place of the spare tire as we've discussed here before
i run a 315/35/17 tire so thats around 26" and based on the 3.06 first gear of the 4L60e i guess i need a final drive of 3.54?
and i think the stall speed should be somewhere in the vicinity of 2500 - 2700.

what could i improve on? did i miss anything? should i consider some different options?
 
step one! price out all the parts, heads, intake,rotating assembly , balancing, machine work etc

off the top of my head Im thinking roughly
$2000 for the rotating assembly
$2000 for the heads
$2000 in machine work, balance and gaskets
$600 intake
$2000, headers and exhaust
$500 injectors
$500 for a decent 3000rpm stall converter
$100 for SFI flex plate
$500 throttle body

and the end result is the car is a faster than average lt4 powered 383 with maybe 450-575hp
http://www.grandsportregistry.com/dyno.htm



or, you might want to consider a route of selling the current engine and maybe trans, and installing an LS or BIG BLOCK ENGINE

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=151

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6
http://www.dougherbert.com/index.php?ma ... s_id=25852

http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginespage1.html

http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/540_realstreet.php
 
i would love to do a big block motor but i dont think my c4 is an appropriate platform. between the trans and the rear end theres a whole lotta work that would need to be done as supporting mods to the kind of big block i would like to build.

an LS would be much cheaper and easier yes but i dont know if that would kind of "cheapen" the experience.

plus i think i would need a different transmission in the case of the ls because the LS computers dont talk to the previous generation transmissions.
 
I forget what year your C4 is Phil.
If 1994-96 its a 4L60E.
Wiring plug may different from LS C5 but not a big deal.
Repin or Resplice wires as needed.

Not worth dumping big $ into a 383 C4 Efi today I think.
Other options as Grumpy states.
 
its a 96 collectors brian, and yea you guys bring up good points. other than modifying the driveshaft is there any other hiccups running a 4l80e in the c4? possibly behind a hopped up 6 liter LS?
 
all Im strongly suggesting is do the financial home work and research what parts and machine work might be required , what further modes the increased power or heat or speed may require, before jumping into this project with both feet, I see far to many guys get 1/4 to 2/3rds into something similar and either lack the funds or interest to complete the project, many forget that increasing power to the engine is not where performance starts and stops, if you double the engines power you damn sure will need bigger brakes, a bigger radiator, better oil cooling a stronger drive train, and a near endless list of minor upgrades in support components and gauges to allow you to use that extra power effectively.
 
I know Grumpy stongly disagrees but I can pretty easily build a 700R4 or 4L60E to take 500 HP,
it just cost $$$. About $2K for the right parts & Decent quality torque converter.
How long it last depends upon how hard you beat on it 24/7/365 street racing & drag racing.


A Fresh rebuilt 4L80E with a decent torque converter will take 600-800 HP nothing fancy.
You must purchase a PATC 4L80E C4 Corvette Billet aluminum C- beam tailshaft housing.
Last time I checked a few years ago it was around $450-$500.

A custom crossmember could be made & tied into the main C4 Framerails.
Then use a conventional trans mount. To my knowledge its never been done.

My 410 sbc was left to me as gift by a late friend.
I have a small fortune wrapped up in driveline & Solid axle parts to convert my C4 Roadster.
Still more to purchase but almost there & done buying.

My '63 GP is easiest to put together & have fun with now & beating on it relentless for fun.
Take the Family for a drive too. Seats 5-6.
Vette still together till I have all the parts.
Likely not in 2014.
Oh well.

If your going to open a Shop Phil, The 280Z Turbo LS1 would be my pick to build & play with.
Leave the 1996 as a nice Driver till ready.
Just my 2 cents.

There have been a few 1990-95 C4 ZR-1 Owners that have converted from M6 to 4L80E auto 4-speed.

No in this economy is able to build Mega HP Fast C4's that I know of right now Phil.
Guys are Broke too.
 
Back
Top