Without sounding as my usual self ( out of place.) I have a question about the webs on my crank. I am losing 200 grams... or more if I can help it off my rods as I switched from an old forged design to a new H beam design in 4340 vacuum drawn steel. ( Which seems to be the low end of the spectrum these days.) Now all that weight under of course can come off the webs right or wrong? Now here's where I blow off track. This is going to be a quick car by modern terms if I can help it. I am not too concerned with feeling viberation as it wasnt smooth at all in stock form. Can I mill the webs right to just about nothing if I wanted? I am thinking about having the guy doing the balance profile the crank to balance it rather than add slugs ans while he was at It I was thinking about having him cut 4-8lbs (4kg) off from the crank and another 10 off the flywheel as from what I can see performance ones for my car are just stock ones that have been windowed and slotted. Now an expreienced builder of my engine type said the bearings wear strange at power ratings over 400 crank. my goal is 550 or -20 Hp nothing over as I dont have an engine dyno but I do have 1/4 times to test against. I am going to read up on bearing clearences as I never really thought much about it at such a low H.P. but this engine only makes 175 at the wheels NA and 276 boosted from the factory and thats what they raced with until 94 when they upped it to 300. Maybe still out in the woods but if someone can give me an answer about that crank this week I would be happy as I can relay info to the shop that is going to do my crank after I do the static balance.... Oh heck why not throw this in there. Is there a guide on lightening H beam rods with no pad. Theres another website with a near identical rod that weighs 80 grams less at 550 grams.