454 BBC on the cheap, ...well to start

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1010-cheap-big-block-chevy-engine-build/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1101-demon-engines-454-engine/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1102-demon-engines-low-buck-454-engine-build-part-iii/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/picking-a-cam-for-street-strip-496-bbc.13384/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-articles-you-might-want-too-look-over.14682/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/picking-a-cam-for-street-strip-496-bbc.13384/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/454-mild-engine-build.15704/
PROMAX
http://www.competitionproducts.com/...c-Bare-Pair/productinfo/PMX9317/#.V2m23PkrLcc

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/#post-55314

http://www.competitionproducts.com/...c-Bare-Pair/productinfo/PMX9317/#.V2m23PkrLcc
it helps a great deal if you take the time and effort to find a trust worthy and reasonably priced local machine shop , and trust me when I say this is critical, and yes, the machinist will seem to point out endless things that should be done to increase durability, or just allow proper component function,and a good machinist will try to guide you in component selection to help avoid mis-matched parts and low quality parts being used, yes quality parts and machine work, ALWAYS COST more than you may expect them too!
the build above is interesting ,
the three separate video links below all show different big block builds,
but point out parts of the process worth knowing,
that will be rather common to most builds
heres a bit of useful related push rod length info
Big Block Chevy, Standard Length Big Block Intake 3/8" / .080" 8.275"
295-7941-8 Big Block Chevy, Standard Length Big Block Exhaust 3/8" / .080" 9.250"
295-7969-8 Big Block Chevy, Standard Big Block +.100" Long Intake 3/8" / .080" 8.375"
295-7979-8 Big Block Chevy, Standard Big Block +.100" Long Exhaust 3/8" / .080" 9.350"
295-7951-8 Big Block Chevy, Standard Length Big Block Tall Deck Intake 3/8" / .080" 8.675"
295-7961-8 Big Block Chevy, Standard Length Big Block Tall Deck Exhaust 3/8" / .080" 9.650"
295-7800 V8 396-454 Retro Fit Pushrod Set, Intake & Exhaust, 1965-Present
3/8" / .080"
3/8" / .080" 7.725 Int.
8.675 Exh
295-7913-16 Small Block Chevy, Standard Length Small Block Chevy 3/8" / .080" 7.800"
295-7984-16 Small Block Chevy, +.100" Long 3/8" / .080" 7.900"
295-7934-16 Big Block Ford, Standard Length Ford `72-'78 429-460 3/8" / .080" 8.550"
295-7951-16 Big Block Ford, Standard Length Ford `69-'71 429-460 3/8" / .080" 8.675"
295-7582-16 Oldsmobile, Std Length 455 5/16" 9.550"


worth watching, just for the tips on new head inspection
blueprint engine blocks
https://www.jegs.com/v/Blueprint-En...brand&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1

DART BLOCKS
http://dartheads.com/product-category/big-block-chevy/blocks/

world products blocks
https://www.billmitchellproducts.com/engine-blocks/

G.M. performance
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/category/LS196.html


 
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8

87vette81big

Guest
I will make time to watch Your BBC Build Vids today Grumpy.
I like BBC's Too.
 

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
YES I THOUGHT THE VIDEOS WERE RATHER INFORMATIVE AND ENTERTAINING ALSO


When your planing to build a performance car, I've found it helps,
you see progress being made and prevents you from getting discouraged as easily,
if you work on accumulating components for each of the 8 basic sub assemblies,
and checking off your list those components and grouping those on a separate shelf,
as doing so tends to allow you to see more consistent progress,
being made, and you get a feeling your getting someplace.

(1) BLOCK (bearings, freeze plugs main caps and machine work)

(2) ROTATING ASSEMBLY (crank, rods pistons, rings, flywheel,damper etc.)

(3) CYLINDER HEADS and VALVE TRAIN ( valves, valve springs, cam, timing gears, rockers, valve guides, push-rods lifters . etc.)

(4)INDUCTION(manifold, throttle body, sensors, carbs, supercharger, injection , fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator injectors etc.)

(5) DRIVE TRAIN ASSEMBLY COMPONENTS(clutch, stall converter, transmission ETC.)

(6) ignition system (distributor,coils, ignition wires, magneto etc.)

(7) LUBE SYSTEM (oil pan, oil pump, windage tray,oil cooler, ETC.)
these threads and links and sub-links might help

(8) EXHAUST (headers and exhaust system, mufflers ETC.)

If your intention was to maximize lower rpm torque in a 396-454 with peanut port heads , for use in towing a heavy load, at lower speeds,
they are certainly designed to do that, I.d say peanut port heads and a mild cam (similar too but certainly not limited to this one, obviously check clearances and dynamic compression)
https://www.ebay.com/p/Elgin-RV-Torque-Cam-204-208-Dur-459-459-Lift-Chevy-BB-454-427-402-396/527980219?iid=221927971154&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=2&asc=45727&meid=872dbfe416c442df910d78c5df826a81&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&mehot=lo&sd=152577237193&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

oilcappass2.jpg

notice the open slot between the rear main cap supporting the oil pump and bearing shell support and the area supporting the rear main seal, this prevents PRESSURIZED oil from the bearings reaching the rear main seal.
oilcappass3.jpg

the as cast recess in the rear main cap where the oil pump mounts can be rather restrictive and shallow, and if your replacing a missing main cap , with one from a different block you'll very likely be required to have the block?cap too be line honed to get the correct alignment and fit clearances for the crank shaft
oilcappass4.jpg


mainoilcap1.jpg

mainoilcap2.jpg


mainoilcap3.jpg


and ideally about 9:1 compression would be about ideal for your intended application.
long tube 1.5"-1.75" headers similar to these, and a low restriction exhaust would help.
http://www.carparts.com/details/Chevrolet/K20/Flowtech/Headers/1980/F3111500.html?TID=bngpla&origin={adtype}&gclid=CICK9qnA-dUCFQ2DMgodaWwCcQ&gclsrc=ds

wieand makes a specific intake to maximize peanut port head flow, in the lower and mid rpm ranges
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-8122p/overview/


346236 1975-87 454 Open 113cc . combustion chamber PEANUT port

https://www.uempistons.com/index.php?main_page=index&zenid=18baf65efed30844a5c5094bb9ce8435&cPath=3_4_23&sort=5a&filter_id=4&eng_filter=396/402&rod_filter=

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

dynamic compression should ideally be in the 8:1-8.1:1 range

try to get the quench distance in the .040-.044 range
with the 113 combustion chamber a 15 cc-17 cc dome gets you near 9:1
hyper-eutectic pistons would be fine here.
I would try to find a 4.20-4.3 diameter head gasket

dialcalps.jpg



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-68861
dialborega.png


precisemes.png



obviously ask the manufacturers tech dept, if they have any suggestions and if they have had and clearance issues using your part number cylinder heads with the pistons your about too order, just to reduce any potential problems, yes youll want to manually verify piston to valve and piston to combustion chamber clearances
valclear2a.jpg

related info

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...alves-and-polishing-combustion-chambers.2630/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/checking-piston-to-valve-clearances.399/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...2-bbc-with-stock-auto-th350.12999/#post-67614

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-piston-dome-or-port-volume.2077/#post-61068


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-mid-range-454-bbc-build.8215/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/porting-can-help.462/

wnd-8122p_xl.jpg


threads related to cleaning parts and prep.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...an-aluminum-intake-manifold.14410/#post-74196

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-76350

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...cking-blocks-heads-for-cracks.3363/#post-8862

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nt-moore-tools-related-info.12148/#post-74995

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...n-buying-used-engine-blocks.14305/#post-73107

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-68861

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/#post-59253

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...engine-stand-mods-accesories.3724/#post-26986
 
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JimmyDuncan

Well-Known Member
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1010-cheap-big-block-chevy-engine-build/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1101-demon-engines-454-engine/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1102-demon-engines-low-buck-454-engine-build-part-iii/
the build above is interesting ,
the three separate video links below all show different big block builds,
but point out parts of the process worth knowing,
that will be rather common to most builds






The guy myvintageiron7512 has some good youtube videos. There's a series on building a 383 that was good. Any of you guys watched his videos? Does the things he says all fit with what you guys do? Grumpy?
 

Indycars

Administrator
Staff member
I listened to to Chevy 396 (2nd Video) and he doesn't speak to how important it is to be
ABSOLUTELY clean anytime you use silicone gasket sealer. When you think it's clean, then
clean it again
with acetone or lacquer thinner. Especially important for the intake manifold.

I would also offset the rear main seal about 1/4 inch so the parting line does NOT line up the
main cap parting line. Again being very clean I would also put sealer on the back side of the
rear main seal, along with sealer between the block and main cap like he shows. Also a smear
of sealer on the ends of the rear main seal where the two halves come together on the ends.

Other than above I think he does a nice job of explaining engine assembly.
 

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
you tend to have to watch a couple dozen guys assemble engines and, do it while you pay real attention, and/ or
watch several dozen similar videos to get that perspective and pick up the little differences and omissions in how each guy approaches and completes the process.
yes youll undoubtedly see some guys skip over or ignore things that other guys feel are critical, but if you pay attention and really think things through and stop and ask your self
(why is that guy bothering to take the time to bevel that bearing edge)
or
(why is that guy verifying the oil pump stud does NOT touch the rear main cap bearing shell)
, or
(what the hell is a thrust bearing?)
(what was the oil pump drive shaft to distributor gear clearance?)
(what were those rod and main bearing clearances?)
(how did he verify the piston to bore clearance?)
(how do you verify rod bolt clamp or stretch?)
(how do you get the damn damper on)
(what the hell is quench)
(compression height?)
(maximizing ring seal to bore)
(what do you mean don,t beat on that damper?)

Picture106r.jpg

on paired connecting rods, bevel side faces out toward crank counter weight, smooth side faces the adjacent rod face
bearingh9.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...d-side-clearance-dont-assume.4690/#post-12703
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/#post-1534
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...y-in-building-a-good-engine.11682/#post-54682
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/page-2#post-75256


stamprockf.jpg

engine assembly is mostly the hard logical application of physical science with a bit of intuition, where the engine assembly technician and engineering testing is used to verify exactly what is and what is not functioning as its intended too.
the fact is that the engineers and computer simulations can get things about 80% -to-85% to being as close to ideal, but the fact is the guys that control production costs and emission controls will always have some input and the production engineers will make cost reducing changes in the designs, the individual engine builder will get their hands on the O.E.M., engines and find ways to TWEAK, the as delivered engines to produce even better results, then the aftermarket will take a long hard look and start figuring out ways that they could further boost power with less concern for cost and emissions and a bit more concern for power output, then the engine builders will take those parts and TWEAK those parts and the cycle will continue several times until the original engines design has markedly been improved.

head gaskets are rarely completely round, nore are combustion chambers
you,ll want to place a head gasket you,ll use on the heads and mark the area inside the opening as the only areas you can change,
(notice the gasket fire ring is NOT a perfect circle like many people assume)
ideally you,ll want to un-shroud the valves while opening up the combustion chamber volume,
but not extend the combustion chamber past the front edge of the gasket fire ring,
as that usually causes gasket failure
before you spend a good deal of money porting and un-shrouding any iron cylinder heads, keep in mind aluminum heads are easily repaired in a skilled and experienced automotive machine shop thats equipped to do those repairs but damaged iron cylinder heads are either much harder to repair or good door stops
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/iron-vs-aluminum-heads.389/#post-7266

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ccing-my-heads.14187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/iron-vs-aluminum-heads.389/#post-31684

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-piston-dome-or-port-volume.2077/#post-60554

gasketsh.png

you might be amazed at how much material can be removed ,
too noticeably increase air-flow and un-shroud the valves,
and how little it might effectively change,
the combustion chamber volume and compression.


chamberedge1.jpg

chamberedge2.jpg


bbcgasketma.png


INVESTING THE TIME AND EFFORT IN PURCHASING AND READING A FEW BOOKS WILL BE VERY COST EFFECTIVE
bbcbl1.jpg

bbcbl2.jpg

bbcbl3.jpg

bbcbl4.jpg

bbcbl5.jpg

bbcbl6.jpg

bbcbl7.jpg

bbcbl8.jpg

bbcbl9.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-pushrods-and-check-info-you-might-need.5931/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rocker-push-rod-wear-issues.9815/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-t-find-matching-pistons.14206/

https://www.chevydiy.com/ultimate-guide-building-chevy-big-blocks-cylinder-blocks-instruction/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-3#post-77963

you can,t guess or assume, a stock push rod length will work, especially if you used an aftermarket, cam, lifters or rockers or changed cylinder heads ,you,ve got to measure correctly and get the correct length, failure to take the time and effort required usually results in valve train durability issues or engine damage, yeah you can ignore the info provided, but taking the time to do it correctly will save you a whole lot of potential problems & grief later on.
13cal.jpg


no, if you have any engine and want too find the rure compression you need to deal in verified fact, not assume what the manufacturers suggest is always correct.
you just cc the heads, combustion chamber volume, place the piston 1" down the bore and seal the rings gap around the pistons,
above the rings with moly grease or Vaseline and measure that volume and calculate what a bore diameter cylinder 1" tall would
contain, minus the volume you,ve measured, the piston dome took up.then calculate the true compression.
peanutpl2.jpg



pdome2.jpg

pdome3.jpg

pdome1.jpg


read related linked info

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...n-chamber-or-piston-dome-or-port-volume.2077/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ccing-my-heads.14187/#post-71989

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-3#post-77963


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/very-brief-big-block-chevy-history.951/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...train-clearances-and-problems.528/#post-57678

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-related-links-and-info.10255/#post-55578

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/resistance-to-rotation-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/causes-of-bearing-failure.2727/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-install-tips.3449/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-52466

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/another-496bbc.5123/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-mid-range-454-bbc-build.8215/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-building-a-peanut-port-big-block-combo.2900/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cheaper-454-chevy-build.4620/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/interesting-big-block-chevy-454-cam-dyno-test.10181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-lower-cost-big-block-build.10502/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/unshrouding-valves-and-polishing-combustion-chambers.2630/#post-50238

http://www.maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-i-get-it-polished.9214/#post-33116

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-balancing.3900/#post-28672

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/measuring-crank-bearing-journals.5478/#post-16429

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/types-of-crankshaft-steel.204/#post-15727

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/chamfering-oil-feed-holes-in-cranks.4419/#post-11685

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/iron-engine-block-alloys-why-doesn-t-anyone-ever-ask-or-check.11532/#post-53260

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ring-gapping-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-rings-in-piston-grooves.9490/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/don-t-beat-that-damper.83/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-plan-for-quench.11298/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-crush.10213/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/don-t-guess-on-clearances-and-journal-surface.9955/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cleaning-piston-ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-piston-pin-height-compression-height.5064/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sometimes-looking-at-the-circle-track-suppliers-helps.10978/
 
Last edited:

Indycars

Administrator
Staff member
Exactly ..... no ONE video can cover everything about building an engine to produce
maximum power and not leak. Watch many videos, some you will watch for only a minute
and others you will watch several times over. That coupled with reading several books
repeatedly, then asking question when something is NOT clear will get you along ways
toward an successful build.

Above all, have enough patients to go backwards when all you want to do is go forwards!
 

JimmyDuncan

Well-Known Member
you tend to have to watch a couple dozen guys assemble engines and, do it while you pay real attention, and/ or
watch several dozen similar videos to get that perspective and pick up the little differences and omissions in how each guy approaches and completes the process.
yes youll undoubtedly see some guys skip over or ignore things that other guys feel are critical, but if you pay attention and really think things through and stop and ask your self
(why is that guy bothering to take the time to bevel that bearing edge)
or
(why is that guy verifying the oil pump stud does NOT touch the rear main cap bearing shell)
, or
(what the hell is a thrust bearing?)
(what was the oil pump drive shaft to distributor gear clearance?)
(what were those rod and main bearing clearances?)
(how did he verify the piston to bore clearance?)
(how do you verify rod bolt clamp or stretch?)
(how do you get the damn damper on)
(what the hell is quench)
(compression height?)
(maximizing ring seal to bore)
(what do you mean don,t beat on that damper?)

engine assembly is mostly the hard logical application of physical science with a bit of intuition, where the engine assembly technician and engineering testing is used to verify exactly what is and what is not functioning as its intended too.
the fact is that the engineers and computer simulations can get things about 80% -to-85% to being as close to ideal, but the fact is the guys that control production costs and emission controls will always have some input and the production engineers will make cost reducing changes in the designs, the individual engine builder will get their hands on the O.E.M., engines and find ways to TWEAK, the as delivered engines to produce even better results, then the aftermarket will take a long hard look and start figuring out ways that they could further boost power with less concern for cost and emissions and a bit more concern for power output, then the engine builders will take those parts and TWEAK those parts and the cycle will continue several times until the original engines design has markedly been improved.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-related-links-and-info.10255/#post-55578

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/resistance-to-rotation-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/causes-of-bearing-failure.2727/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-install-tips.3449/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-52466

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/another-496bbc.5123/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-mid-range-454-bbc-build.8215/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-building-a-peanut-port-big-block-combo.2900/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cheaper-454-chevy-build.4620/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/converting-a-big-block-chevy-gen-v-vi-to-adjustable-rockers.4564/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/interesting-big-block-chevy-454-cam-dyno-test.10181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-lower-cost-big-block-build.10502/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/unshrouding-valves-and-polishing-combustion-chambers.2630/#post-50238

http://www.maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-i-get-it-polished.9214/#post-33116

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-balancing.3900/#post-28672

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/measuring-crank-bearing-journals.5478/#post-16429

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/types-of-crankshaft-steel.204/#post-15727

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/chamfering-oil-feed-holes-in-cranks.4419/#post-11685

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/iron-engine-block-alloys-why-doesn-t-anyone-ever-ask-or-check.11532/#post-53260

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ring-gapping-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-rings-in-piston-grooves.9490/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/don-t-beat-that-damper.83/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-plan-for-quench.11298/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-crush.10213/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/don-t-guess-on-clearances-and-journal-surface.9955/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cleaning-piston-ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-piston-pin-height-compression-height.5064/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/

See this is why I love it here.... You ask a question and rather than a couple of short sentences and opinions, you get a reading list to fill the next few evenings :) A reading list that is purpose built for what you asked about... Wish I could get the search function to work a bit better.... At least Grumpy does a good job playing google.. ;)
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum
Its a Gen 5 454 Grumpy.

I don't like his engine stand.
Wimpy.
Those 454's with Iron heads are heavy.
Too easy the engine stand tipping over .
Ruin the day.
 

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
I was not all that impressed with the stand used in that linked video, either
, I bought several engine stands ,
my most used one, looks like this,
but I added (4) 8" caster swivel wheels,
,
making it far easier to roll.

ecrane2a.jpg
1284.jpg
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-...hion-tire-swivel-caster-with-brake-61836.html

standmodg.jpg
foldst.png


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bare-minimum-tools.11026/#post-51843

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ting-started-in-the-car-hobby.339/#post-60187

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-68850

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/storing-a-spare-engine.614/#post-12734

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-engine-stand-mods-accesories.3724/#post-5018

heres some calculators you might use
http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/motor.html
http://www.thirdgen.org/calculations
http://www.bgsoflex.com/holley.html
http://www.rickwrench.com/bunchofcalculators.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/calculators/index.php
http://hotrodworks.net/hotrodmath/hotrodmath.html
http://kb-silvolite.com/calc.php
http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php
http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm
http://www.wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp_dp.htm
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calccr.htm
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/index.html#jcalc
http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_da.htm
http://www.diamondracing.net/cocalc.htm
http://www.crower.com/misc/valve_timing_chart.html
http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm
http://www.ondoperformance.com/page2.html
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/camshaft.html
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html
http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...ngth/pipe.html
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bville-spreadsheet-index.html
http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx
gear spread sheet that comes in handy THANKS TO 1FATGMC
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bville-spreadsheet-index.html
HERES OTHER INFO LINKS
http://www.wallaceracing.com/reargear.htm
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcmph.htm
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrpm.htm
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/calcrgr.htm
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#tabtop
http://users.erols.com/srweiss/transc.htm#Auto
http://www.pipeflowcalculations.com/airflow/index.htm
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/header-tech-c.htm
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_pr...torquemyth.htm
http://tom.marshall.tripod.com/exhaust.html
http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...a/effarea.html
http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~allan...ngth/pipe.html
http://www.pontiacracing.net/js_header_length1.htm
http://www.wallaceracing.com/runnertorquecalc.php
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question172.htm
http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm
a few resources to allow you to calculate the ideal results
http://www.tmossporting.com/tabid/1805/Default.aspx
heres some differant calculators
http://www.kb-silvolite.com/calc.php?action=comp2
http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php
http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/compression_ratio.php
http://not2fast.wryday.com/turbo/com...pressure.shtml
average the results
 
Last edited:

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum
Engine stands and engine hoists roll terrible on less than perfect concrete or dirt grass I found that out.
The concrete in my 1-1/2 car garage I think is 102 years old.
Found the year 1916 in the corner put in by hand.
 
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