454 timing ck.

[william ritchie]

I just put in a new dis. in my 1996 sub, 7.4 motor after it shot the pressed on top with rotor out thru the cap, I got it timed close enough to make the ser. eng. soon light to go off, but its showing +17 to 24 deg. as it goes thru the gears I cant find anyone with a set up to ck. cam retard anywhere nearby is it set close enough to drive the 50mi. to have it setup without cooking the cat. conv. they are working harder than before?

 

[Grumpy]

your catalytic converters are far more effected by the fuel/air ratio and amount of un-burnt fuel than the ignition advance curve,obviously verify the basics ,never assume anythings correct until you've verified it is set up correctly. do a compression check, adjust valves, visually check spark plugs, verify fuel pressure, get out the timing light and vacuum gauge, and multi-meter and deal in facts not assumptions.
If your not sure how to do something, either do some research or ideally find local help, joining a local hot rod club and mentor, or at least find a competent mechanic.
but why not graph out that ignition advance curve , firing order, and set it up closer to ideal>, verify the plug gaps, check fuel/air ratio, etc. reading a few links should prove very useful here.
an hour or two spent reading linked info could save you a good deal of time,
and effort and maybe cash, or prevent broken parts

if your experiencing detonation issues that are cured by swapping to higher octane rated fuel, and you would prefer to use the lower octane , less expensive fuel, you should adjust your cars ignition advance combination , so that its advance curve has either less initial timing, or delaying the mechanical advance vs. rpm with some stiffer springs, or a combination of both might reduce the pinging under load at 2500-3500 rpm where its most commonly seen,. Does this detonation or pinging, only occur at WOT? If not, limiting the vacuum advance with a stop, or using an adjustable vacuum advance unit and raising the amount of vacuum required vs. the amount of vacuum advance might be warranted also and installing a lower temp rated t-stat and adjusting the engine fuel/air ratio a bit richer may also help..
RELATED INFO
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/verifying-your-real-advance-curve.4683/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-tabs-and-indicators.1015/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-top-dead-center.967/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-lights.875/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/spark-plug-info.202/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-kills-o2-sensors.3049/#post-53103

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/failed-emissions.11501/#post-52995

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/is-backpressure-hurting-your-combo.495/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ow-to-reduce-its-likely-hood.9816/#post-49741

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/detonation-damage.2883/#post-31942

 

[william ritchie]

Thanks for the help/full Links, I found a small race shop only 15mi. away that had the snap on tool that could set it up, I was off -6 deg. on cam retard and it will break both tires louse on my cement parking lot like before my dis. failure

 

[Grumpy]

were always glad to help out when we can here!