496ci revamped

Discussion in 'Engine Combos and Dynometer Database' started by Speedlink1973, Jul 5, 2018.

  1. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Hi everyone,
    Some have seen a few of my posts on a revamped 496ci I'm working on
    I have everything finely to do the assembly.
    Want to say thanks to all who has made me think outside the box on this build.
    Some pictures I've already posted here and their so I will post pictures as I go on this thread so I don't clog up other threads.


    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 6, 2018
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  2. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    looks like you have the basics well covered, and many of the more common related,
    required tools on hand.. its always great too see a tool display like that, that allows you to verify a lot more clearances,
    I always wonder about those few guys that seem to think you can take parts out of the shipping box,
    and assemble an engine, with a set of wrenche
    congrats on what appears to be a well planed engine assembly

    are those, what it looks like?
    closed chamber design pistons, and open chamber cylinder heads?
    yes Im well aware there are universal fits either head chamber design piston domes pistons sold, and the fact you had heat barrier coating applied is a big plus.
    yeah I know that either type works fine but it also tends to reduce compression

    how do you like that style ring compressor? I find those work far better than most of the other types
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2018
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  3. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    More pics
    I've played with the ring compressor little, but so far it's way better than the pop can type.
    When I ordered pistons I told them what I had for heads and told them where I wanted to be on compression,
    So came up with these 25cc short dome pistons
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2018
  4. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Here's a few modifications that I've done
    I used a bore scope to help port match intake to the heads.
    I used 1/2" dowels to align intake to heads

    Modified head ports and valves

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 7, 2018
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  5. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    that work youve done on the heads and intake looks like it should be noticeably more efficient than the stock parts ever were.

    the port clean-up on the intake should help a good deal, the black oily crud on the intake runner walls, is generally caused by lower rpm reversion, during over lap, and/ or leaking valve seals on intake valves, polishing out casting flaws helps reduce that crud build-up that restricts flow at higher rpms
    btw have you considered a single plane intake?
    Id bet one like this linked here would noticeably boost yout mid and upper rpm without a huge reduction in off idle torque


    Last edited: Jul 6, 2018
  6. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Here's my cheap procomp belt drive system that I revamped

    And oil mod's I did.

    Attached Files:

  7. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    thanks for posting the pictures of both oil mods..MORE IMPRESSIVE ALL THE TIME
  8. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    I have a victor jr 454 O
    I could use.
    That's one of the questions I had before
    Based on the cam I'm running
    And some where along the question
    We got on another subject.

    Here's the cam card I have

    And that intake was with the old procomp heads, I'm in the hopes the AFR heads seal a bit better

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 19, 2018
  9. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    I have one more mod to the rear main bearing you posted I plan on doing today
  10. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    While either intake should work on that engine with that cam timing and displacement,
    because of the displacement vs the port cross sectional area , even with that reasonably mild cam timing,in that 496,BBC,and,
    especially since you have a decent second intake already available,
    Id sure test, the two by swapping the intake, for a while, to see the results.
    that single plane intake should provide a boost, ID at least try the other intake and let you decide what power curve you like better.
    let us know what your impression is, personally Id think youll like the single plane,
    as your very likely , going too have marginally less problems with loss of lower rpm traction issues on the street,
    with typical street style tires, in wet weather, and a bit more upper rpm power.
    Speedlink1973 likes this.
  11. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    I'd like to see how you did this!
  12. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    My post office is great, nice to live in small town USA

    Keep this in mind on piston and rod weights.

    Just wanted to verify my weight on a good scale.
    Took them up to post office and they weighed all my parts for me
    I'm with in a gram on my pistons weight
    And what appears to 2 on rods
  13. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    I will take a picture when I assemble
  14. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    The importance of clean!!!

    These were brand new pistons
    They were cleaned once at coating place,
    Now I cleaned them in new kerosene
    Look at the bottom of the bucket

    I added a picture of this loose chip
    In the oil hole, this chip has made its way from manufacturer (wiseco) to supplier, to me, to piston coating, back to me I washed everything down check every inch of part scrubbed with nylon brush and caught it.

    My advice "Clean it twice so you don't have to build it twice"

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 22, 2018
  15. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Yes, I had very similar results when cleaning new parts on my engine build!
  16. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    related threads

    if you just assume that the machine shop must have cleaned the parts they worked on carefully...

    Ive seen cylinder heads returned still coated with valve grinding compound in the ports, and blocks with easily a teaspoon worth of mill chips in the crank case area.

    a good spray with a quality de-greasing agent and a pressure cleaning would be my first step.
    long ago I purchased a decent pressure cleaner as it makes getting the crud and grease off a block or transmission much less difficult
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_600025-24212-65 ... Heavy-duty
    a high pressure air nozzle ,with a extended tip,
    that allows you to get into and remove solvent and dry the surfaces in the the small recessed areas is a great idea

    cleaning all the thread holes with the correct size tap is a very good idea
    related threads













    Last edited: Jul 6, 2018
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  17. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Check it twice clean it three times
  18. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Well hit a snag, at least on the bottom end standard bearings are to small.
    Ordered .001 bigger bearings
    It's a bit bigger than .0015 but smaller than .002

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 6, 2018
  19. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

  20. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Hi Grumpy,
    Have good question for you
    I've seen this done two different ways
    On ring filing some say an inch in the bore
    Some say set ring off piston land were it stops in bore,
    This makes more sense to me being
    Piston is stopped all heat is at it's highest
    Expansions is maxed out and if a ring was going to touch I would think it would be here.
    Do I sound logical?

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