496ci revamped

Speedlink1973

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone,
Some have seen a few of my posts on a revamped 496ci I'm working on
I have everything finely to do the assembly.
Want to say thanks to all who has made me think outside the box on this build.
Some pictures I've already posted here and their so I will post pictures as I go on this thread so I don't clog up other threads.


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Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
looks like you have the basics well covered, and many of the more common related,
required tools on hand.. its always great too see a tool display like that, that allows you to verify a lot more clearances,
I always wonder about those few guys that seem to think you can take parts out of the shipping box,
and assemble an engine, with a set of wrenche
s
congrats on what appears to be a well planed engine assembly

are those, what it looks like?
closed chamber design pistons, and open chamber cylinder heads?
yes Im well aware there are universal fits either head chamber design piston domes pistons sold, and the fact you had heat barrier coating applied is a big plus.
yeah I know that either type works fine but it also tends to reduce compression

how do you like that style ring compressor? I find those work far better than most of the other types
 
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Speedlink1973

Well-Known Member
More pics
looks like you have the basics well covered, and many of the more common related,
required tools on hand.. its always great too see a tool display like that, that allows you to verify a lot more clearances,
I always wonder about those few guys that seem to think you can take parts out of the shipping box,
and assemble an engine, with a set of wrenche
s
congrats on what appears to be a well planed engine assembly

are those, what it looks like?
closed chamber design pistons, and open chamber cylinder heads?
yes Im well aware there are universal fits either head chamber design piston domes pistons sold, and the fact you had heat barrier coating applied is a big plus.
yeah I know that either type works fine but it also tends to reduce compression

how do you like that style ring compressor? I find those work far better than most of the other types
I've played with the ring compressor little, but so far it's way better than the pop can type.
When I ordered pistons I told them what I had for heads and told them where I wanted to be on compression,
So came up with these 25cc short dome pistons
 
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Speedlink1973

Well-Known Member
Here's a few modifications that I've done
I used a bore scope to help port match intake to the heads.
I used 1/2" dowels to align intake to heads

Modified head ports and valves
 

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Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
that work youve done on the heads and intake looks like it should be noticeably more efficient than the stock parts ever were.

the port clean-up on the intake should help a good deal, the black oily crud on the intake runner walls, is generally caused by lower rpm reversion, during over lap, and/ or leaking valve seals on intake valves, polishing out casting flaws helps reduce that crud build-up that restricts flow at higher rpms
index.php

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btw have you considered a single plane intake?
Id bet one like this linked here would noticeably boost yout mid and upper rpm without a huge reduction in off idle torque

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-7620/overview/

7620a.jpg

7620b.jpg

7620c.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...h-on-fuel-air-ratios-that-gets-ignored.15506/

reading through the links and sub links should help you a great deal
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...u-buy-bare-or-assembled-heads.534/#post-57612
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-seat-runout.15104/#post-86003
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lve-seat-angles-and-air-flow.8460/#post-29719
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/multi-angle-valve-job-related.3143/#post-8387
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-by-step-guide-with-pictures.5378/#post-32456
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ccing-my-heads.14187/#post-71989
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/
 
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Speedlink1973

Well-Known Member
Here's my cheap procomp belt drive system that I revamped

And oil mod's I did.
 

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Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
thanks for posting the pictures of both oil mods..MORE IMPRESSIVE ALL THE TIME
 

Speedlink1973

Well-Known Member
that work youve done on the heads and intake looks like it should be noticeably more efficient than the stock parts ever were.

the port clean-up on the intake should help a good deal, the black oily crud on the intake runner walls, is generally caused by lower rpm reversion, during over lap, and/ or leaking valve seals on intake valves, polishing out casting flaws helps reduce that crud build-up that restricts flow at higher rpms
index.php

index.php

btw have you considered a single plane intake?
Id bet one like this linked here would noticeably boost yout mid and upper rpm without a huge reduction in off idle torque

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-7620/overview/
I have a victor jr 454 O
I could use.
That's one of the questions I had before
Based on the cam I'm running
And some where along the question
We got on another subject.

Here's the cam card I have

And that intake was with the old procomp heads, I'm in the hopes the AFR heads seal a bit better
 

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Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
While either intake should work on that engine with that cam timing and displacement,
because of the displacement vs the port cross sectional area , even with that reasonably mild cam timing,in that 496,BBC,and,
especially since you have a decent second intake already available,
Id sure test, the two by swapping the intake, for a while, to see the results.
that single plane intake should provide a boost, ID at least try the other intake and let you decide what power curve you like better.
let us know what your impression is, personally Id think youll like the single plane,
as your very likely , going too have marginally less problems with loss of lower rpm traction issues on the street,
with typical street style tires, in wet weather, and a bit more upper rpm power.
 

Speedlink1973

Well-Known Member
My post office is great, nice to live in small town USA

Keep this in mind on piston and rod weights.

Just wanted to verify my weight on a good scale.
Took them up to post office and they weighed all my parts for me
I'm with in a gram on my pistons weight
And what appears to 2 on rods
 

Speedlink1973

Well-Known Member
The importance of clean!!!

These were brand new pistons
They were cleaned once at coating place,
Now I cleaned them in new kerosene
Look at the bottom of the bucket

I added a picture of this loose chip
In the oil hole, this chip has made its way from manufacturer (wiseco) to supplier, to me, to piston coating, back to me I washed everything down check every inch of part scrubbed with nylon brush and caught it.

My advice "Clean it twice so you don't have to build it twice"
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Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
related threads

if you just assume that the machine shop must have cleaned the parts they worked on carefully...

giphy.gif

Ive seen cylinder heads returned still coated with valve grinding compound in the ports, and blocks with easily a teaspoon worth of mill chips in the crank case area.


a good spray with a quality de-greasing agent and a pressure cleaning would be my first step.
long ago I purchased a decent pressure cleaner as it makes getting the crud and grease off a block or transmission much less difficult
65909.jpg

http://www.lowes.com/pd_600025-24212-65 ... Heavy-duty
nozzle.gif

a high pressure air nozzle ,with a extended tip,
that allows you to get into and remove solvent and dry the surfaces in the the small recessed areas is a great idea


cleaning all the thread holes with the correct size tap is a very good idea
T-wrench.jpg


If your building a 496 stroker BBC ,
DO THE MATH THINK IT THROUGH AND ASK QUESTIONS
you should be looking at oval port heads in the 265cc-300 cc port size range
ideally, compression ratios for common pump ,street octane fuel ,would work best with about a 10.4-10.8:1
cams in the 235-245 duration at .050 lift and lift in the .580-.650 ranges generally in a hydraulic roller on a 108-110 lsa


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sellecting-cylinder-heads.796/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/semi-fool-proof-cam-sellection.82/

heads

TRICKFLOW
http://www.trickflow.com/egnsearch.asp? ... 4294867081
http://www.trickflow.com/customerservice
1-330-630-1555 • 1-888-841-6556

BRODIX
http://www.brodix.com/heads/heads.html
479.394.1075

DART
http://www.dartheads.com/products/cylinder-heads
Dart Machinery; 248/362-1188; DartHeads.com


AIR FLOW RESEARCH
http://www.airflowresearch.com/
https://www.airflowresearch.com/cylinder-heads/bbc-magnum-24-cylinder-head/

toll free: 877-892-8844
tel: 661-257-8124

Patriot Performance
Patriot Performance; 888/462-8276; Patriot-Performance.com


RHS
http://www.racingheadservice.com/rhs/cylinder-headshtml
Toll Free: 877-776-4323
Local: 901-259-1134

EDELBROCK
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new ... main.shtml
Edelbrock; 310/781-2222; Edelbrock.com

BMP (world products)
http://www.theengineshop.com/products/cylinder-heads
Tel: 631-737-0372
Fax: 631-737-0467

BUTLER PERFORMANCE
http://www.butlerperformance.com/products/cylinder_heads/cylinder_head_labor.html
866-762-7527

BLUE PRINT ENGINES
http://www.blueprintengines.com/ind...sb-chevy-aluminum-cylinder-heads-cnc-machined
1800-483-4263

PRO-FILER
https://www.profilerperformance.com/
937‐846‐1333

https://www.billmitchellproducts.com/world-cast-iron-26degree-269cc/



“Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price.
However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse ...
that comes a little cheaper.”


cams

lunati
http://www.lunatipower.com/

ISKY
http://www.iskycams.com/

BRODIX
http://www.brodix.com/heads/heads.html

ERSON
http://www.pbm-erson.com/store.php?catId=327
http://usaperform.com/-c-154_206.html


CROWER'
http://www.crower.com/

KINSLER
http://www.kinsler.com/page--Home-Page--13.html

HERBERT
http://www.dougherbert.com/

DART
http://www.dartheads.com/products/engin ... big-blocks

CRANE CAMS
(I did a ton of business with the old crane cams, Ive not yet built a firm background with the new company but so far they seem competent)
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=technicalhelp

http://www.jonescams.com/2006catalog_002.htm
Ive heard good things but never used these guys

ELGIN
http://catalog.elginind.com/download/PROSTOCK.PDF


are some other companies Ive had nothing but good results from
CROWER
http://www.crower.com/media/pdf/chevrolet.pdf

CRANE
http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/catalog/Crane Cams Master Catalog.pdf

ERSON
http://www.pbm-erson.com/UserFiles/Documents/Catalogs/2013 erson catalog.pdf
http://usaperform.com/-c-154_206.html

HOWARD
http://www.howardscams.com/howards2015.pdf
https://howardscams.com/c-1268612-camshafts-and-cam-lifter-sets.html

HERBERT
http://www.herbertcams.com/herbert-cams-cam-kits/

ENGLE
http://www.englecams.com/downloads/2010_engle_catalog.pdf



that 4.25" stroke crank and 6.385" connecting rod = 8.51 inch combined
remember 1/2 the stroke or 2.125" is used here,
on a 496 4.25: stroke crank
combined with rod length and deck height
td425.png

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/427-tall-deck.15267/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tall-deck-options.14678/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/427-truck-tall-deck-engine-mods.14632/
BBCbott.jpg

with a 9.8" standard deck block that requires a 1.29" pin height piston pin
with a 10.2" standard deck block that requires a 1.69" pin height piston pin

yes the piston can be slightly lower or above the deck,
and yes different head gaskets can be used but ideally you want about a .040-.042 quench
remember the blocks deck height,
minus the piston pin height minus 1/2 the crank stroke,
will equal the required connecting rod length
OR
the blocks deck height, minus the connecting rod length,
minus 1/2 the crank stroke. will equal the required piston pin height
and yes blocks tend to measure about .020 over the listed deck height until machined
to level or square the deck surface



related threads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43842
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-62107

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-cleaning.12303/#post-60502

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tap-and-die-sets.1264/#post-6141

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bio-friendly-parts-cleaner.11547/#post-53360

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/page-2#post-48605

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thread-chaser-for-new-block.3774/#post-10002


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-76350

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/should-you-buy-bare-or-assembled-heads.534/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...an-aluminum-intake-manifold.14410/#post-74196

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/think-thru-your-goals.10606/#post-73288

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68206

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-for-new-383-sbc-cam-instal.13109/#post-68326

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-old-heads-in-the-scrap-bin.10728/#post-46832
 
Last edited:

Speedlink1973

Well-Known Member
related threads

if you just assume that the machine shop must have cleaned the parts they worked on carefully...

giphy.gif

Ive seen cylinder heads returned still coated with valve grinding compound in the ports, and blocks with easily a teaspoon worth of mill chips in the crank case area.


a good spray with a quality de-greasing agent and a pressure cleaning would be my first step.
long ago I purchased a decent pressure cleaner as it makes getting the crud and grease off a block or transmission much less difficult
65909.jpg

http://www.lowes.com/pd_600025-24212-65 ... Heavy-duty
nozzle.gif

a high pressure air nozzle ,with a extended tip,
that allows you to get into and remove solvent and dry the surfaces in the the small recessed areas is a great idea


cleaning all the thread holes with the correct size tap is a very good idea
T-wrench.jpg

related threads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43842
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-62107

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-cleaning.12303/#post-60502

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tap-and-die-sets.1264/#post-6141

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bio-friendly-parts-cleaner.11547/#post-53360

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/page-2#post-48605

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thread-chaser-for-new-block.3774/#post-10002


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-76350

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/should-you-buy-bare-or-assembled-heads.534/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...an-aluminum-intake-manifold.14410/#post-74196

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/think-thru-your-goals.10606/#post-73288

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68206

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-for-new-383-sbc-cam-instal.13109/#post-68326

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-old-heads-in-the-scrap-bin.10728/#post-46832
Check it twice clean it three times
 

Speedlink1973

Well-Known Member
Well hit a snag, at least on the bottom end standard bearings are to small.
Ordered .001 bigger bearings
It's a bit bigger than .0015 but smaller than .002
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Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
yes it always helps too double check bearing clearances and take the time too verify oil passages are clean,
and bearing oil feed holes properly line up with the oil feed passages and verify,
those clearances, and not just simply assume, they are correct
, and assemble and re-verify those clearances.


related info.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/page-2#post-75256

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68205

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ed-holes-in-bearings-shells.10750/#post-64733

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/

dialcalps.jpg



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-68861
dialborega.png


precisemes.png


71DiMRV8kgL._SX522_.jpg


https://www.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/49347/SPG1-12


Related links you might want too read
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-train-clearances-and-problems.528/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ig-block-heads-and-casting-s.3960/#post-88179

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-aftermarket-block-variants.15146/#post-86505

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-on-the-cheap-well-to-start.11739/#post-55478

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ck-chevy-gen-v-vi-to-adjustable-rockers.4564/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/checking-piston-to-valve-clearances.399/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/big-block-head-comparison.319/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/big-block-pushrod-guide-plates.4596/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rdering-correct-custom-length-pushrods.14241/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/chevy-big-block-vi.9857/#post-72462
 
Last edited:

Speedlink1973

Well-Known Member
Hi Grumpy,
Have good question for you
I've seen this done two different ways
On ring filing some say an inch in the bore
Some say set ring off piston land were it stops in bore,
This makes more sense to me being
Piston is stopped all heat is at it's highest
Expansions is maxed out and if a ring was going to touch I would think it would be here.
Do I sound logical?
 
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