496ci revamped

Have new ATI damper installed torque to 85 ft lbs
With a dash of blue loctite.
Had to impervious a bit on lower pulley,
I noticed damper I.D. was .042 bigger then the flange O.D. of pulley so I used aluminum tape
Cut some real long thin strips wrapped it
To get it around. 005 so pulley didn't look like a clown car wheel, or professional term bringing Runout in. Or bringing in
concentricity.
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Grumpy , Manicmechanic, IndyCar

I know it's been a debate over single plane intake vs dual plane intake
Software seem to lean toward dual plane intake.

Now trying to understand what is happening between the two,
I'm assuming that the single plane intake has short runners and has less time for fuel to mix with air at lower speeds,
Where's the dual plane intake is bouncing air and fuel around and mixing at lower speeds but slower velocity at higher rpms do to drag?Posting as a question

I'm posting this because there maybe a factor not taking into account.

By the way thanks for all the help guy's
Engine should be done today and back in to the car
 
Speedlink1973 said:
Grumpy , Manicmechanic, IndyCar

I know it's been a debate over single plane intake vs dual plane intake
Software seem to lean toward dual plane intake.

Now trying to understand what is happening between the two,
I'm assuming that the single plane intake has short runners and has less time for fuel to mix with air at lower speeds,
Where's the dual plane intake is bouncing air and fuel around and mixing at lower speeds but slower velocity at higher rpms do to drag?Posting as a question

I'm posting this because there maybe a factor not taking into account.

By the way thanks for all the help guy's
Engine should be done today and back in to the car
Click to expand...
Leaving Finate Amplitude Waves out of the induction equation its all about Air Velocity Speeds.
The Dual Plane Intake does a Superior job maintaining High or higher airspeeds in the induction side into the Cylinder head intake ports.
 
The slightly modified 496 is safely back in the car, now all that's left is hooking up stuff.

I primed the engine's oil pump, but
Will do one last prime once oil cooler is
Connect.

Thanks again for all the help guy's
Will post some chassis dyno results
In a couple of weeks, I want to break it in and get fuel injection tuned.
Im hoping to light some fires by Wednesday.
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Ok an update,
Fuel injection has timing control.
I'm setting it up 10deg btdc as per instructions.
And I'm learning fast on locking distributor and phasing rotor in.

Made up a look thru cap
 

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Hey Grumpy,
I needed to grind in my 1" spacer
It was not flat nor paralle, it is now
But should I rough it up a bit, for better gasket sealing, I know at work on transmission assembly, some sealing faces have to be a certain RZ not too rough but not too fine, because of gasket sealing,
Just wondering what your thoughts were.
Thanks
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Id clean it with acetone , apply a good sealant/gasket as required and not give it a moments worry
 
Well decided to wrap my exhaust, figured it would have a double effect, one keep heat off floor board (which I have dynamat on inside too)
But should keep hot gas temperatures up at that magic point of 16" to 20" past collector as well, 3" stainless exhaust
So not really worried about rust
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it looks like you did a good job insulating the headers ,
yes the wrap holds heat a bit more effectively so scavenging efficiency is marginally improved, but I think you might find the better quality ceramic coatings are a better option.
as it holds heat and prevents its rapid escape from the header but does not have the same tendency to hold moisture, any yeah if you use both , adding the wrap only affter the engines exhaust has cycled several times to lock on the ceramic coating it might marginally help exhaust scavenging efficiency

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/header-paints-and-coatings.6086/#post-57067

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/unwanted-engine-bay-heat.12186/#post-59047

the issue with the wrap is simply that if you get it wet by driving in the rain or on wet pavement it tends to collect and hold moisture,
and while a non wrapped header and exhaust freely exposed surface tends to dry rapidly even if the exhaust has cooled,
the wrapped header tends to hold moisture trapped between the header and wrap surfaces.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cooler-denser-air.8961/#post-54496

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/c-4-exhaust-system.1174/#post-50538

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...octane-for-compression-ratio.2718/#post-35581

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/is-backpressure-hurting-your-combo.495/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thermal-coatings.2610/#post-12861

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/x-or-h-pipe.1503/
 
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Headers are ceramic coated, what you're probably seeing is my dumps for track,
Here's a better picture of it.

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Your not supposed to wrap Jet Hot coated headers.
The coating will Blister Melt.
Then fail.
They need a constant airstream of air to cool off.

Jet Hot makes a coating good for 2000,+ F.
Have to pay extra for it.

Some of that exhaust wrap is real good.
The best is made from Crushed Volcano Lava Rock.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Your not supposed to wrap Jet Hot coated headers.
The coating will Blister Melt.
Then fail.
They need a constant airstream of air to cool off.

Jet Hot makes a coating good for 2000,+ F.
Have to pay extra for it.

Some of that exhaust wrap is real good.
The best is made from Crushed Volcano Lava Rock.
Click to expand...
It is Crushed volcano lava rock

My headers aren't wrapped, picture is deceiving I didn't think much of it till it appears the first picture looks like the header collector. It's my dumps that tie into x pipe it's plain Jane 409 stainless steel exhaust that is wrapped.

My original intent was to help inside temp of the car, but figured it should help
Hot gases to stay hotter in this area.
 

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Hey Grumpy, I see you posted on one of the links a heat gun,
Once car it to temp and run shouldn't all the exhaust be very close to same temp if it's running and dialed in?
 
all the header primary pipes should be with-in 50 f of each other and generally in the 450f-550f range at idle speeds,
obviously the exhaust temp increases if the rpms increase as more exhaust cycles per minute increase heat loads on each exhaust port, and the ports will be hotter after any extended engine run time as it takes longer to cool, down and drop back on the exhaust port temps

  1. the idea of using a infra-red temp gun to locate a mis-fire cylinder is useful and valid, a mis-firing cylinder will tend to run cooler, as less hot exhaust gas flow will result, check the cam lift as a worn cam lobe might be the cause.
    Id check the carb float levels and fuel pressure was consistent and replace the fuel and air filter, distributor rotor and cap,
    Id also suggest a basic tune-up and use of a multi meter to verify the ignition wires condition.
    if you post clear color pictures of the labeled by cylinder number spark plugs it could in many cases provide valid useful related info. as always you'll be better off dealing in facts and you get those through isolate and test procedures.
    Id suggest a compression test and adjusting the rockers/and looking for vacuum leaks.
    obviously check your ignition timing and advance curve with a tach and a timing gun, to verify what your dealing with
    Ill post a few related links
    42545.jpg

    http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/e...1100200223789&utm_content=All Extech Products
    INFRARED TEMP GUN


    related threads
    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/spark-plug-info.202/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-miss-on-an-older-muscle-car.5575/#post-16927

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-tabs-and-indicators.1015/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-with-ignition-knock-issues.14293/#post-72961

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/verifying-your-real-advance-curve.4683/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-lights.875/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ouble-shooting-rebuilding-hei-ignitions.2798/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nks-to-ignition-related-info-you-can-use.751/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-intermittent-ignition-miss.13253/#post-69104

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/reading-plugs.5428/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...grated-multi-spark-digital-rev-limiter.13948/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/locating-vacume-leaks.882/#post-45944

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ition-wires-getting-the-header-clearance.840/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-tuning-info-and-links.109/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/correctly-adjusting-valves.196/
  2. GrumpyThe Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.Staff Member
    med_1530930608-20180705_191808.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Hey Guy's,
I ran into a conundrum not sure what to do, I'm not sure if I can get away with it or not, but the belt drive I'm using
Makes the front balancer stick out 1/4" farther then a standard timing chain set,
But pulley times out on good on second
And third groove of pulley
But first groove is 7 7/8" but the two that line up are 6 7/8"
I'm assuming the biggest one is to over drive the water pump
I thought I could get a 5 7/8" water pump pulley but can't find one.

Any ideas?
Thanks
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Speedlink1973 said:
Hey Guy's,
I ran into a conundrum not sure what to do, I'm not sure if I can get away with it or not, but the belt drive I'm using
Makes the front balancer stick out 1/4" farther then a standard timing chain set,
But pulley times out on good on second
And third groove of pulley
But first groove is 7 7/8" but the two that line up are 6 7/8"
I'm assuming the biggest one is to over drive the water pump
I thought I could get a 5 7/8" water pump pulley but can't find one.

Any ideas?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Camshaft Belt Drives are seldom used on the street.
All out Racecar .
Alternator used only typical.

May need to machine up your own pulleys.
Or Use Nascar Pulleys.
 
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