496ci revamped

[Grumpy]

good,the components listed certainly should keep the engine coolant reasonably cool,
total surface area of the radiator should ideally be at or more than about 1.5-2 sq inches per cubic inch of engine displacement.
in theory that requires about a 24 inch tall x 32 inch wide
496 x 1.5=744
24 x 32=768
obviously clearance issues fitting that large a radiator become a problem so multi tube radiator designs are rather common on performance applications

 

[Speedlink1973]

good,the components listed certainly should keep the engine coolant reasonably cool,
total surface area of the radiator should ideally be at or more than about 1.5-2 sq inches per cubic inch of engine displacement.
in theory that requires about a 24 inch tall x 32 inch wide
496 x 1.5=744
24 x 32=768
obviously clearance issues fitting that large a radiator become a problem so multi tube radiator designs are rather common on performance applications

19x21 3 row aluminum is what I have
So 19x21x3 =1197 correct?

 

[Grumpy]

19 x 21-399 sq inches, , and while each additional row of tubes and fins, behind the first row, adds quite a bit of additional cooling capacity,
each row behind the first row is being supplied with pre-heated air from the row in front of it making it a bit less effective at heat transfer,
I doubt youll have cooling issues, but you certainly can,t get quite as high or the same efficiency out of a multi layered design.
Id be rather sure that with proper ducting and fans , and an oil cooler, youve got the cooling situation well under control.
and yeah, available space use, restrictions force most of us to use similar options, and certainly the use of the multi layered radiator and added oil cooler should help meassurably

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

I have a 30 row oil cooler rectangle style or flat plate style whichever you want to call it with an10 lines sandwich plate with a 220 deg thermostat
fan box I have for radiator coolant pulls 4500 cfm
Amp draw is 39 amp's
Transmission has a stand alone 32 row
Copper round tube style an8 lines and a 800cfm fan , it has never seen over 180 degrees at 34 degrees timing before revamp 200 degrees with a ambient temperature 100 in traffic

The alternator I have is for a ambulance
185 amps and it doesn't take a lot of rpm to get 100 amp out. So if it spins slower it won't hurt it.

Try it.
More cubic inches tends to take a larger radiator.
If you have Air conditioning it puts a tremendous heat load into the radiator because the Condesor is up in front of it.

I have the Big Griffin Radiator for a 1967-1969 Chevy Camaro in my 1963 Pontiac Gp.
Installed it back in Febuary or March this year.
Made for cooling 496 ci BBC stroker engines.
The biggest Griffin makes.

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ryone-working-on-or-doing-lately.14411/page-5

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ryone-working-on-or-doing-lately.14411/page-6

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

I have to get the Griffin Pro Radiator number when I get home.
Its on the bottom side.
Visable underneath the front bumper.
$300 only.

 

[Loves302Chevy]

Here's a good picture on how close studs are to balancer

Oh damn, that means that everything else now has to be spaced out a 1/4" also. Sucks. Been there, done that.

 

[Speedlink1973]

One thing that I do to help coolant temperatures is water wetter, which if anyone is using aluminum heads and aluminum radiator
Should be using hypercool or water wetter both have similar components.

Some may know this already, but this is how I know about Electrolysis

I ran a wire EDM for about 5 years
And seen first hand the effects of
Electrolysis and aluminum I won't go into detail of a wire EDM but basically it uses electricity to blow up anything conductive very accurately to the tenth of a thousandth.

When current travels through aluminum
There's a reaction that happens that degrades aluminum and causes oxidation
Or (aluminum rust) and destroys aluminum, water wetter and or hypercool both have chemicals to help prevent Electrolysis and also chemicals to help bubbles from forming on surfaces of inside of radiator which allows more surface contact.

Here's some pictures of a few other things that can help. And example of what's going on and what happens.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/anodes.74/#post-674

 

[Speedlink1973]

Thanks for adding the link, I'm assuming
Grumpy did it.

 

[Grumpy]

I try to help guys find related info when I can.

 

[Speedlink1973]

Just wanted to let everyone know it lives
And a big thanks to all for the help guy's

 

[Loves302Chevy]

Nice work.

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

Have Fun !

 

[Speedlink1973]

I do have a question,
What's a good advance timing to start out,
Right now it's at 32 degrees but thought about taking it to 30 degrees while working the rings in.
Then fine tune it at chassis dyno in a week or so.
Not really looking for optimal, just a good base.
My new fuel injection has timing control
But will be just using msd to control
Spark, to use timing control I have to lock out distributor put my phasing rotor on
And phase it in.

 

[Grumpy]

personally Id leave it at 32 total ,for now,
and use the dyno later to develop the best matched ignition advance curve

 

[Speedlink1973]

personally Id leave it at 32 total ,for now,
and use the dyno later to develop the best matched ignition advance curve

Thanks Grumpy!!

 

[Indycars]

Very nice work Speedlink, you have paid very close attention to detail in the engine compartment. I'm sure it carries
over into the engine build also!

 

[Speedlink1973]

Hey guys I have a question for you
On timing.
Timing was a bit flakey so I decided to change springs,weights and bushings
The springs had rust on them so I'm not sure what to start with on resetting it up
Bushing was rusty as well but I can measure it
When new kit gets here today.

I bought this ignition system used off Ebay a few years ago and so I don't know what they used.
I know I've posted in the link of what my setup is now, but i will list it all again
So no digging around and all the information will be available in this post
Including msd setup sheet Rick's dyno sim, and Cam spec. Card

11.2 :1 compression
2800 stall
Afr 290cc oval port heads
2" flowmaster scavenger headers
3" exhaust

My thoughts are "E" with a blue bushing

Thanks in advance no pun intended:0)

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

Hey guys I have a question for you
On timing.
Timing was a bit flakey so I decided to change springs,weights and bushings
The springs had rust on them so I'm not sure what to start with on resetting it up
Bushing was rusty as well but I can measure it
When new kit gets here today.

I bought this ignition system used off Ebay a few years ago and so I don't know what they used.
I know is posted in the link of what my setup is now, but i will list it all again
So no digging around and all the information will be available in this post
Including msd setup sheet Rick's dyno sim, and Cam spec. Card

11.2 :1 compression
2800 stall
Afr 290cc oval port heads
2" flowmaster scavenger headers
3" exhaust

My thoughts are "E" with a blue bushing

Thanks in advance no pun intended:0)

Yes Try the Blue Bushing.
2 Lightest springs.
Or 1 Light spring with 1 medium spring.

Trial and error finding the best combo.

On my own I dial in a super fast advance.
All in by 900-1100 rpm.
How I like it.
Tune the carb.
Race Gas.
Pump gas 87.
No detonation issues.
Comes down alot to a persons ability tuning.