496ci revamped

Maniacmechanic1 said:
Yes Try the Blue Bushing.
2 Lightest springs.
Or 1 Light spring with 1 medium spring.

Trial and error finding the best combo.

On my own I dial in a super fast advance.
All in by 900-1100 rpm.
How I like it.
Tune the carb.
Race Gas.
Pump gas 87.
No detonation issues.
Comes down alot to a persons ability tuning.
Click to expand...
One of the reasons I'm putting new stuff on it was the engine seems to like 12 deg
initial timing I ran it up to 2600 at 32 degrees but after that I ran it up to 3500
And it was still advancing clear up to 43deg I stopped and shut it down, and decided to redo the curve.
I was originally going to let the Fitech fuel injection take care of the spark curve
But some issues won't allow me to use it yet.
 
Speedlink1973 said:
One of the reasons I'm putting new stuff on it was the engine seems to like 12 deg
initial timing I ran it up to 2600 at 32 degrees but after that I ran it up to 3500
And it was still advancing clear up to 43deg I stopped and shut it down, and decided to redo the curve.
I was originally going to let the Fitech fuel injection take care of the spark curve
But some issues won't allow me to use it yet.
Click to expand...
It should start up Easy.
No Race Cam in it.
Good Street Behavior designed in.
 
Is that with vacuum blocked off? I agree if it likes 12 blue bushing is 21 degrees should work well. All in at 33. Black bushing is largest bushing which is 18 degrees.
 
Strictly Attitude said:
Is that with vacuum blocked off? I agree if it likes 12 blue bushing is 21 degrees should work well. All in at 33. Black bushing is largest bushing which is 18 degrees.
Click to expand...
No vacuum advance
Here's what I have.
And my thoughts were cam comings in at 2500 2600 so I figured I want total advance at about same time, not sure
Just assuming.
Thanks
 

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Timing is the really calculating the speed of the flame why a good head requires less timing because it ignites the flame quicker. Hence the term quick burn head. So reading your plugs is gonna give you the best idea what's going on in the cylinder and where to set the timing curve. Or you can read plugs and use the track to dial it in with times. Dyno can also do that. It allows you to calculate Mass Brake Torque which is the most timing before torque goes no higher which is what you are looking for. The part where it gets fun now add air fuel mixure to the equation. A lean mix will burn quicker then a rich fuel mixure so if you are still playing with the fitech dialing it in it can make getting that timing harder to do.
 
It's a bit lean,
Total seal wanted it lean st first
They didn't want any cylinder wash at all
At wot it's 13.2
Part throttle it afr 13.9
I buzzed it around a bit, but I'm going to add fuel at idle

Picture 2 added fuel
Looks better, but may need more
What's your guy's thoughts?

And by the way it's violent
At 3500 to 6300
But Cruz's nice 58 mph at 2300 rpms
At idle it pulls 9 to 10"of vacuum
870 rpms

I went with blue bushing one light silver
Spring and one light blue spring on timing.
Seems to like it

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I tweaked it a bit more.
One advantage to fuel injection
You can adjust your targets with a few
Taps of the keypad
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Here's a few pictures of my revamped
Fuel system.
Fitech makes a pretty good injection system,
But there Fuel command center not so much, a lot of people have boil over fuel
Because they stick them under the hood.
So instead of spending 600 on a fitech fuel system, I took my command center and turned it into a fuel cell with a return.
The crazy thing with a return now is my intake temperature drops about half way down the runner and spacer plate are cold when engine is full temperature.
I will use my heat gun and take pictures of it, but here my Frankenstein setup
It's a 340 lph electric pump. It runs at 58 to 60 psi with a 5 lbs return.
The black tube on left side has a roll over vent that I placed on the outside hidden by the bumper
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if the return line has 5 psi, back pressure, its restrictive,
it, or some of the fitting's and adapters on it,
needs to be a larger cross sectional interior area ALL the way to the exit in the tank
 
We have sdeen the 496 Big Block Chevy Needs a Stellar Fuel Delivery Sytem.
Just alot of cubic inches to feed.

I go nuts about Race Car Fuel systems.
I hate what many guys do today.
Pro Tour ideas dinky will work.
Those ideas are all a Lie.

Need at least #8AN feed line.
I would use #10AN FEED.
#10AN Return ...#8AN return should be ok too.

340L pump Ok.
Can meet fuel needs.
Fuel pump to #10AN line connections can be Tricky.
RACETRONIX Offers real world solutions.
 
Figured it out, fuel filter on return
Line was stopped up a bit ,now less then a pound of fuel on return.
And for more fuel on the fitech
No an8 or 10, you just run another an6 line and second pump, it has 3 inlet and one return, per fitech anything over 800hp needs A second pump to keep up with demand, the unit itself won't allow anything bigger than an6 so you double up the line.
 
Speedlink1973 said:
Figured it out, fuel filter on return
Line was stopped up a bit ,now less then a pound of fuel on return.
And for more fuel on the fitech
No an8 or 10, you just run another an6 line and second pump, it has 3 inlet and one return, per fitech anything over 800hp needs A second pump to keep up with demand, the unit itself won't allow anything bigger than an6 so you double up the line.
Click to expand...
It was done that way on East Coast Supercharged C5 & C6 Corvettes.
Twin or Tripower fuel pump layout.
Each additional pump turned on was done with Hob switches.
Just Ok.
Risky.

No substitute for a Big single Race Fuel pump.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
It was done that way on East Coast Supercharged C5 & C6 Corvettes.
Twin or Tripower fuel pump layout.
Each additional pump turned on was done with Hob switches.
Just Ok.
Risky.

No substitute for a Big single Race Fuel pump.
Click to expand...
It's kinda a neat unit, the computer is on board , and it calls for fuel pump to spin faster or slower based on throttle position and fuel usage.
 
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Grumpy said:
good one less potential problem
Click to expand...
One good note, if the filter starts getting dirty, I will have a way to see it before it get bad.

I have three filters, one on pump
One inline to fuel injection and one on return, long story short, I had this command center in the trunk to begin with, so I had fuel going back and forth
A few times, but preparing to set it up like it is now, so that's why I have a extra filter.
 
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