496ci revamped

Discussion in 'Engine Combos and Dynometer Database' started by Speedlink1973, Jul 5, 2018.

  1. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    why would the difference in the piston rings location in the bore of 1/2 inch of bore depth while your checking the ring end gap,
    have any effect at all since the bore diameter is supposed to be consistent over it total length? most builders use a tool that places the ring square in the bore about 3/4"-1" deep from the deck, and use that location to measure the ring end gaps.
    now I work mostly on BBC engines and I built a custom ring square tool , out of cheap and easy to find PVC plumbing pipe adapters, (look at the pictures, rick posted,)remember it does not need to be a perfect bore diam. match too square the rings , but of course it must fit down the bore, too use when gapping rings,and on the big block engines you can build and use a custom tool like this without reducing the diam., but Rick went the extra step and built a very similar tool for his SBC projects engine

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    http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis24000.html


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    measure carefully as the piston groove depth and back clearance must match the rings you use or youll have major problems

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    #525 is a 220grit hard stone & pretty coarse.
    It is what I consider a "production rebuilder finish" & not what I would finish any bore with especially a performance one but it will work with cast iron or chrome
    #625 is a 280grit hard stone & mid range suited to moly rings

    400-500 grit stones are sometimes used after a 280 grit hone to just prep the surface briefly before final clean-up and moly ring install
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    http://www.enginehones.com/lislehones.html

    http://www.goodson.com/store/template/d ... 93a1b07466

    http://www.wayfair.com/Lisle-Hone-Engin ... 49-IJO1028.

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    BTW when you go to buy a ring compressor....this type works far better than the others

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    http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO-66766&N=700+115&autoview=sku


    related info, threads and sub-links, you should read carefully

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/#post-17109

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-ring-info-youll-need.509/page-2#post-77252

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/flex-hone.9538/#post-72178

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ling-rings-in-piston-grooves.9490/#post-34908

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/#post-7233

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/#post-30835

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ore-clearance-on-your-block.14251/#post-72471
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2018
  2. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Nice alignment square Grumpy.
     
  3. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    I used my depth mic to square up the rings, I set it to .750 deep
     

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  4. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    It was actually 1/2" dowels as you can see
    The heads are spot faced with a half inch mill so they can drill taped holes out,
    On final assembly put intake on line up the far end with one dowel and one at the front put your bolts in the center, snug them down, remove your end dowels and replace with bolts torque to spec.

    Note: I did polish one end down a bit to fit heads.
    This assure alignment, then I used a bore scope to inspect that I have a straight thru
    Airflow.
     

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    Last edited: Jul 8, 2018
  5. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

     

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  6. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Victor jr 454 O modification complete
    Last picture is how it started out.
    Thanks again Grumpy on advice about going with single plain intake,
    Intake is not as nice looking but will serve its purpose well.

    Added a few more pics

    These new ceramic hi temp candy colors are pretty cool
     

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    Last edited: Jul 15, 2018
  7. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Hey Grumpy, I have a great idea, well maybe, what about a carwash sprayer
    If a power washer is not available?
    Around here we have those DIY spray car wash bays, with nice hot water and you can choose soap or no soap.
    Just an idea for a low budget guy that doesn't have a power washer , but has a pickup truck, shorts, and flip flops
    Plus you will probably get on YouTube
    From the guy behind you in line going
    "Look at that guy washing engine parts"
    Same concept
     
  8. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    I wash Rear Differentials, Transmissions , and blocks at carwashes.
    Cleaning Iron blocks is a challenge because of flash rust.
    Best done at 33F to 60F.
    The hotter it is the faster flash rust takes place.
    Car wash guy attendants will not like you spraying W40 on blocks and parts to stop flash rust.
    No Air compressor available.

    Best done at home.
    But there is the mess of cleanup too.
    And soaks into the ground.

    Best Tool I bought in last few years is my Gasoline Engine powered Air compressor.
    No Electricity needed.
    Take and use anywhere.
    ITS Economical to use also.
    Runs for hours WOT on 1 tankfull of 87 octane gas.
     
  9. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Best to go late at night.
    Cops will stop and visit.
    To avoid getting arrested and turned into the EPA You have to Entertain them.
    Think Fast.
     
    Speedlink1973 likes this.
  10. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

  11. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Tech question guys
    Oil mod on bearing done
    Bearing installed
    But rear main oil hole doesn't line up
    Should I A grind bearing
    B grind block
    Or C leave it be?[​IMG]
     

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  12. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    Ive seen some where over 1/3-to-1/2 the oil feed hole was blocked due to misalignment, thats usually easily cured, by drilling a shallow increased diameter recess in the blocks oil passage to open it to match the bearing or opening up the bearing feed hole, but which ever route you take be sure to carefully clean and deburr both

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    Last edited: Jul 13, 2018
    Speedlink1973 likes this.
  13. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Thanks Grumpy
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2018
  14. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Fixed Thanks again!!
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  15. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    It used to be rare not having the main oil bearing oil feed holes line up.
    Seems to be occurring more often.
    I open up the main bearing holes and debur with a small pocket knife.
     
  16. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Bad thing is, it's a dart block, you would think it would be a bit better, but so far I haven't been overly impressed with a lot of the better name components,
    Guess it's the Tool Maker in me being critical
     
  17. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    GM had real elaborate tooling and fixtures in the engine plants.
    Seen vintage photos.
    Most machined operations done in the same station and fixture.

    Same problems your seeing Also on Pontiac V8 aftermarket parts too.
     
  18. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Few more pics,
    Clearances checked .0025 on crank mains .0035 on main number 5
    Rods .0022 crank main pins 2.7498"
    Rod pins came in at 2.1998"

    Torqued all mains 105 ft lbs
    Start torquing at 20ft lbs
    Then 60 ft lbs then again at 90 ft lbs
    Lastly 105 ft lbs per Dart

    Torqued rods 20 - 40- 64 ft lbs
    Per scat made sure to put rod
    Big chamfer toward the crank
    Same with bearings.
    Used totalseal powder on cylinder walls, totalseal al8 assembly lube on rings.



    Rear main thrust set at .005 end play

    Cam set .005 end play

    I gapped my rings per total seal, top and second ring to
    .0055x every inch of bore diameter
    Came to be .0237 I rounded up. 024
    This will allow me up to 150 shot of Nos.

    I don't have any plans on Nos anytime soon,
    But being it's a gapless ring anyway
    I thought it doesn't hurt to be a bit big
    Then another tear down just to file rings
    For Nos.

    I posted a picture of thermostat
    On purpose, working in meteorology
    For a few years makes you see measuring things in a different light, parts need to acclimate to a room at 72 to 68 degrees to give you the most accurate reading.


    Degree wheel setup top dead center is located and ready to start checking cam.
    Done for the night
     

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    Last edited: Jul 15, 2018
  19. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    I see you used Total Seal Quick Seat Powder.
    I have some but have not used it yet.
    What Piston Rings did you use ?
     
  20. Speedlink1973

    Speedlink1973 Well-Known Member

    Gapless second ring 5/64 5/64 3/16
     

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