496ci revamped

Always spending money to go Drag Racing.
And keep racing.
Everything is $100, 500, & 1,000 cash or more.
No Prep Drag Racing makes it worth it.

10s, 9s , 8s needed in 1/4 mile.
All B.S. Ends.
 
I got creative, I didn't trust were the tester was breaking open the valve.
So I put my indicator on the retainer
And as soon as I seen indicator move I recorded the number on spring tester
138 at the seat.20190405_204458.jpg
 
Howard's called for 130-140lbs @ the seat, and 380 to 400lbs on the nose.
And I ordered the heads from AFR built
That way.
Ok.
Shoot for 140 lbs on the seat when you install your New Titanium Retainers and Ti. Valvelocks.
In theory you could go a bit less with Ti. Better to be on the high side.

To Check Open pressure you need a Rimac valvspring bench model tester like I have. They are expensive.
Can go as high as $1k used.

LSM and few others make modern styles digital electronic readout.
Still Pricey.
The tiny one used in a Bench vise is not very accurate.

Setting checking seat pressure and you should Be A-Ok.
 
See I bought longer push rods,
I noticed on the exhaust only how close it rides on the guide, so I went with a .05 longer push rod on the exhaust side, intake side didn't have that spin like exhaust
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Did you Purchase a Valvespring Height Micrometer?
You need it to do dead on accurate spring seat pressure setup work.
Snap Guage not good enough only for low po daily street driver that method.
 
Did you Purchase a Valvespring Height Micrometer?
You need it to do dead on accurate spring seat pressure setup work.
Snap Guage not good enough only for low po daily street driver that method.
I'm going to use my brother in laws
He has one I can borrow.
In the meantime, I have a retainer lock stuck.
I tapped it with a hammer, used aircompresser tool, rope trick,
I got it with wart removal freeze spray and froze it, worked like a charm. 20190407_185126.jpg
 
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I'm going to use my brother in laws
He has one I can borrow.
In the meantime, I have a retainer lock stuck.
I tapped it with a hammer, used aircompresser tool rope trick,
I got it with wart removal tool and froze it, worked like a charm. View attachment 11918
Hey, good idea, when I am assembling heads I always put the locks in the freezer for an hour or so before I start. It helps them go together easier.
 
I'm going to use my brother in laws
He has one I can borrow.
In the meantime, I have a retainer lock stuck.
I tapped it with a hammer, used aircompresser tool rope trick,
I got it with wart removal tool and froze it, worked like a charm. View attachment 11918
Never seen that trick.
I like the Rope style method.
With some modern Race heads they have tiny valvestems like 7mm diameter.
Compresses air be safer.

I use a brass punch and a Mechanics ball Pean hammer 20 ounce model to RAP feee.
A brass head hammer work too.
 
It's alive, getting ready for some testing
With new pro flo 4, new 4.11 gear and new titanium retainers, have to buzz gear around a bit from my understanding, needs a few miles on it then let it cool down drain gear lube and refill it.

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It's alive, getting ready for some testing
With new pro flo 4, new 4.11 gear and new titanium retainers, have to buzz gear around a bit from my understanding, needs a few miles on it then let it cool down drain gear lube and refill it.
It's a good idea to drain gear oil after an initial run in ON new ring and pinion gears. When I build for Drag Racers its optional. I always fill with Royal Purple 85w-140. Or Castrol 85w140 Spiro trade name Dino Gear Oil. Street highway gears I use 75w140 in my own drivers. Used to use Royal Purple 75w90. Power levels higher today. Ok in low Hp vehicles yet. The 63 Pontiac I recall using RP 85w140.
 
It's a good idea to drain gear oil after an initial run in ON new ring and pinion gears. When I build for Drag Racers its optional. I always fill with Royal Purple 85w-140. Or Castrol 85w140 Spiro trade name Dino Gear Oil. Street highway gears I use 75w140 in my own drivers. Used to use Royal Purple 75w90. Power levels higher today. Ok in low Hp vehicles yet. The 63 Pontiac I recall using RP 85w140.
All drained reinstalled and ready to run
Hopefully weather is good tomorrow
So I can take it a drive to work.
 
All drained reinstalled and ready to run
Hopefully weather is good tomorrow
So I can take it a drive to work.
Give it Hell soon and see what happens.
Should get into 10's.
If not it's time for a Power Adder.
Nitrous Oxide is simple bolt on.
125-250 Hp little shot.
Give 10.5 ET.

To get 10.5 ET normal aspirated a True Radical Race Cam profile needs to be used.
I can tell you 1st hand Grumpy will not go for it.
Have to go under cover Facebook.
All out Race no holds barred.
I am there too on Race groups.

Turbo 400 is 100 lbs lighter than 4L80E also.
Be about 130-150 lbs lighter with Coan Titanium drums.
 
a properly designed and built performance engine thats used as transportation occasionally and occasionally street driven, is,
going to be assembled from a slightly different set of components than a true race engine , that will be normally disassembled,
and carefully re-assembled after a race or at least every few months.
this does non necessitate a huge reduction in over all power, but it will generally result in,
an engine built with DURABILITY taking a higher priority, over getting the last potentially available peak rpm horse power ,
and the difference in performance potential is generally minimal if both engines are properly designed.
with current tech, and suspension and tires, performance can be significantly enhanced, without a huge power penalty , especially with added nitrous
example, my 1968 corvette, with a 13.7:1 compression 496 BBC,
ran a 10.25 second 1/4 mile time at 135 mph, but I drove it on the street regularly.
back in the mid 1970s that was respectable performance, but keep in mind Sunoco 260 was available as pump gas,
and the corvette tended to draw un-wanted attention with the way it looked.
my 1968 corvette with a big block 496, running SUNOCO 260 and crower injection, it looked vaguely like this picture,when I even tried alcohol for a short time,
mine was Burgundy and a chrome bumper corvette of course
that required a quick disconnect fuel cell, so I could quickly swap fuel tanks,
I had a 15 gallon fuel cell in the corvette, filed with METHANOL, and a quart of MMO, and a jury rigged 5 gallon fuel can, filled with 115 octane gas and a pint of MMO, we carried separately , too the track,
with the proper quick connect connectors to run the car from for a few minutes ,
before we parked it for any length of time to reduce the chances of corrosion.
no mater how fast your corvette, or any muscle car, may be,
if you can,t drive and enjoy it or use it occasionally,
you've lost a good deal of the cars potential and in my opinion value.
thats one reason I've stated several times,
that its generally more fun to run a 11-12 second street car,
you can drive daily, than a 9-10 second car you can,t drive except at the track.
Ive owned two cars that I could rather easily clock low eleven second ,
and for one, high ten second 1/4 mile time slips driving
I miss them a bit more than the low 10 second corvette , I built,
simply because I had far more pleasant memories , WHY, ... simple!
I spent far more time on both the street and track with the more street friendly cars.
both my 1965 tempest and 1969 camaro would run low 11 second times rather easily
my 1968 corvette was extensively modified, full roll cage, modified rear dana 60 differential
injectors sticking through the hood, (and more attention than I wanted)
here,s a picture of me in 1970 (49 years ago) with a 1969 camaro I installed a BBC-496 with a tunnel ram into, then later CROWER FUEL INJECTION
paulscamarobw.jpg

1965gtoside.jpg

I found this picture on line,
its almost a clone too what my GTO/TEMPEST clone, I built with a killer BIG BLOCK CHEVY/MUNCIE 4 speed, dana 60 rear differential, drive train, looked like,
its the one car I REALLY MISS that I wish ID never sold
I had built a 1968 vette, in the mid/late 1970s with a full roll cage, a dana 60 rear and 4.11 rear gears and a m21, and a 13.7:1 cpr 496 bbc engine with crower injectors at the time.
CrowerInjectorsa.jpg

MY 1968 corvette was dark maroon
and a chrome bumper 1968 corvette,
but it looked similar to this corvette with the crower injection sticking through the hood
78CrowerFI1.jpg

I've built SBC,BBC,PONTIAC and DODGE/MOPAR, and even a few FORD engine engines for dozens of cars,
the guys that are happiest are , generally the guys that can jump in the cars they own and drive them on the street without any reliability issues


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...you-regret-selling-the-most.13116/#post-68384

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-resulting-from-an-engine-swap.898/#post-1450

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...best-musclecar-related-memory.2075/#post-5545
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/build-a-496-stroker-bbc.101/#post-15067
 
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It's mainly gearing proved by NHRA Super Stock Pontiac V8 guys.
Need to scream it into Danger Zone.
Heart attack by Grumpy.
No Power Adder.

Nitrous best alternative.
 
It's mainly gearing proved by NHRA Super Stock Pontiac V8 guys.
Need to scream it into Danger Zone.
Heart attack by Grumpy.
No Power Adder.

Nitrous best alternative.
I'm banking on gear from 3.2 to 4.11, air flow, and better injection system, and a half a pound lighter valve train.
850 cfm wasn't enough
Ran 11.36 last year 10.90 is the goal
 
I'm banking on gear from 3.2 to 4.11, air flow, and better injection system, and a half a pound lighter valve train.
850 cfm wasn't enough
Ran 11.36 last year 10.90 is the goal
10.90 should be had.
10.50 has been a long time goal in Vette world.
Everyone failed but 1 with a C5 vette.
Big Hero Shot nitrous.
Think 400 Hp shot.
 
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