Strictly Attitude
solid fixture here in the forum
Awesome I can't wait to see it either
61 c10 Build
- Thread starter BetsyRed63
- Start date
BetsyRed63
Well-Known Member
I finally got around to fitting my new wires. I got the Taylor Thunder Volt, 8.2 mm, 40 ohm per foot wires. Went with an Accell shorty plugs to clear #6 header.
I'll tell you what, this truck will snap your head back into the back window if you're not paying attention. It's running better than it ever has.
Now it's having issues hooking up, tires are small. The TH350 transmission just doesn't feel like the right combo.
That stuff will have to wait a bit, Dr bills, pain management for my back are cleaning my account at the moment.
I'm going to work on getting the true timing curve sometime this week, when I am feeling a little better. But I feel the timing is extremely close right now.
I'll tell you what, this truck will snap your head back into the back window if you're not paying attention. It's running better than it ever has.
Now it's having issues hooking up, tires are small. The TH350 transmission just doesn't feel like the right combo.
That stuff will have to wait a bit, Dr bills, pain management for my back are cleaning my account at the moment.
I'm going to work on getting the true timing curve sometime this week, when I am feeling a little better. But I feel the timing is extremely close right now.
8
87vette81big
Guest
The Kieth Black Pistons I find most interesting in your 383 SBC build.
They make more HP & Torque on the street & strip normally aspirated- no power adder used than most Forged Pistons.
The Hyper aluminium KB is unique.
Reflects combustion heat back into the combustion chamber.
More PSI force pushing down on the piston top on the Power Stroke.
Thermal Dynamic efficiency is higher.
They make more HP & Torque on the street & strip normally aspirated- no power adder used than most Forged Pistons.
The Hyper aluminium KB is unique.
Reflects combustion heat back into the combustion chamber.
More PSI force pushing down on the piston top on the Power Stroke.
Thermal Dynamic efficiency is higher.
BetsyRed63
Well-Known Member
I didn't know much about the Kieth Black pistons prior to this truck (still don't know a lot, learn more everyday).
Overall, I am pretty satisfied with this build so far. Of course I wish I didn't have stock 993 heads on it, but that can be replaced at another time.
Overall, I am pretty satisfied with this build so far. Of course I wish I didn't have stock 993 heads on it, but that can be replaced at another time.
BetsyRed63
Well-Known Member
Finally broke down and ran some new transmission lines.
I've bent them before with a spring bender and that sucked. I bought a tube bender this time, it was so worth the money.
Got a flare tool and did some nice double flares, whoever did the old lines had no business doing flares...
Put a new gear selector shaft seal in (pita). Two more leaks to take care of. Tranny dipstick tube is leaking, and the seal around the differential is leaking a tad.
I cleaned the vent in the rear end and it hasn't leaked since but I am still going to replace that seal.
Hate leaks!
I've got to start planning the suspension for this thing so I can get some disk brakes going.
I've bent them before with a spring bender and that sucked. I bought a tube bender this time, it was so worth the money.
Got a flare tool and did some nice double flares, whoever did the old lines had no business doing flares...
Put a new gear selector shaft seal in (pita). Two more leaks to take care of. Tranny dipstick tube is leaking, and the seal around the differential is leaking a tad.
I cleaned the vent in the rear end and it hasn't leaked since but I am still going to replace that seal.
Hate leaks!
I've got to start planning the suspension for this thing so I can get some disk brakes going.
can you post pictures and possibly links, with part numbers, too the tools ,
that you used to do the brake line job and any more details on their use,
as it may help others doing similar work!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900156/overview/
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
http://www.plumberscrib.com/ridgid-23332-345-flaring-tool.html?gclid=CLXYlsLu38cCFVFsfgod0xMISQ
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/brake-and-fuel-line-flaring.11236/#post-50743
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ubing-fuel-lines-and-flaring.1030/#post-35905
that you used to do the brake line job and any more details on their use,
as it may help others doing similar work!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900156/overview/
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
http://www.plumberscrib.com/ridgid-23332-345-flaring-tool.html?gclid=CLXYlsLu38cCFVFsfgod0xMISQ
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/brake-and-fuel-line-flaring.11236/#post-50743
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ubing-fuel-lines-and-flaring.1030/#post-35905
Last edited:
BetsyRed63
Well-Known Member
You definitely need a tubing cutter. If you plan on doing a double flare, you need a perfect cut.
If your cut is less than perfect you will bang your head trying to get a nice flare.
The first step in your flare will be crooked causing your hole to be off center, ultimately causing a poor seal and a dreaded leak.
This is the cutter I already had Rigid Model # 31622
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-150-Tubing-Cutter-31622/100018866
I would suggest a big one like this because it has a tool attached in the side to clean the inside of your cut.
You could use a rat tail file if all you have is a small cutter that does not have the attached tool.
Just make sure you blow out your line really well after cutting and cleaning.
I would suggest getting a decent set of files if you don't have any. They sure are handy for a lot of things.
I used this tubing bender from Napa. Part Number: BK 7769001
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Tubing-Bender/_/R-BK_7769001_0006393011
Not the best bender, but it worked great for me, and after using a spring bender on a prior truck, this bender was a huge
upgrade for me. I've worked with angles my whole life so I am really accurate at guessing degrees of angles. This bender is perfect for me.
Honestly, if you only ever bend one tube, I still wouldn't use the spring bender. Spend the $8 it will be worth your time.
I used the double flare kit from Harbor Freight... Pittsburgh Automotive - Item#66534
http://www.harborfreight.com/double-tube-flaring-tool-kit-66534.html
While this did get the job done... I would actually recommend spending more money on one of these.
I had to use my bench vise and clamp this one down so tight I thought my vice was going to break.
If you use this one (don't say you weren't warned), you better have a good vice or your tubing will just keep slipping when you put pressure on the end.
This may not be necessary, but I used a bastard cut flat mill file to chamfer the outside edge of my tube before flaring.
I did transmission lines so I used a touch of transmission fluid on the end of the line and cone before flaring to keep the friction down;
and I feel like it prolongs the life of the tool a bit. I will be doing a lot more line, so this thing will probably end up in the dumpster.
I hear good things about the rigid Grumpy posted above.
This is what I ended up with...
A CLEAN DRIVEWAY!
One thing I would definitely recommend if you're new to flaring. Make sure you get enough tubing to practice your flares.
I messed up 2-3 flares before I slowed down and prepped everything correctly. After that is was a breeze.
If your cut is less than perfect you will bang your head trying to get a nice flare.
The first step in your flare will be crooked causing your hole to be off center, ultimately causing a poor seal and a dreaded leak.
This is the cutter I already had Rigid Model # 31622
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-150-Tubing-Cutter-31622/100018866
I would suggest a big one like this because it has a tool attached in the side to clean the inside of your cut.
You could use a rat tail file if all you have is a small cutter that does not have the attached tool.
Just make sure you blow out your line really well after cutting and cleaning.
I would suggest getting a decent set of files if you don't have any. They sure are handy for a lot of things.
I used this tubing bender from Napa. Part Number: BK 7769001
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Tubing-Bender/_/R-BK_7769001_0006393011
Not the best bender, but it worked great for me, and after using a spring bender on a prior truck, this bender was a huge
upgrade for me. I've worked with angles my whole life so I am really accurate at guessing degrees of angles. This bender is perfect for me.
Honestly, if you only ever bend one tube, I still wouldn't use the spring bender. Spend the $8 it will be worth your time.
I used the double flare kit from Harbor Freight... Pittsburgh Automotive - Item#66534
http://www.harborfreight.com/double-tube-flaring-tool-kit-66534.html
While this did get the job done... I would actually recommend spending more money on one of these.
I had to use my bench vise and clamp this one down so tight I thought my vice was going to break.
If you use this one (don't say you weren't warned), you better have a good vice or your tubing will just keep slipping when you put pressure on the end.
This may not be necessary, but I used a bastard cut flat mill file to chamfer the outside edge of my tube before flaring.
I did transmission lines so I used a touch of transmission fluid on the end of the line and cone before flaring to keep the friction down;
and I feel like it prolongs the life of the tool a bit. I will be doing a lot more line, so this thing will probably end up in the dumpster.
I hear good things about the rigid Grumpy posted above.
This is what I ended up with...
A CLEAN DRIVEWAY!
One thing I would definitely recommend if you're new to flaring. Make sure you get enough tubing to practice your flares.
I messed up 2-3 flares before I slowed down and prepped everything correctly. After that is was a breeze.
BetsyRed63
Well-Known Member
I will definitely be getting a better flare tool before I do any more lines.
I guess you realize that it does 37° flares and not the usual 45° double flare that
are used in most American car brake lines.
.
Raidmagic
Active Member
No, I didn't? What do you use that for? Does it make a difference?
I was only trying to say that Ridgid makes quality tools. For 45° double flare in
Ridgid use their model 23337 345-DL flaring tool. It definitely makes a difference,
you have to use the correct tool. You can't use a 37° flare on a 45° brake line.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWKZLO...lid=2YFIUJ8JWFA6F&coliid=I3JL53ME3VPMJ3&psc=1
Ridgid use their model 23337 345-DL flaring tool. It definitely makes a difference,
you have to use the correct tool. You can't use a 37° flare on a 45° brake line.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWKZLO...lid=2YFIUJ8JWFA6F&coliid=I3JL53ME3VPMJ3&psc=1
BetsyRed63
Well-Known Member
Definitely spend the extra money on a good flaring tool. It will make your life so much easier.
I bought this flaring tool from Eastwood a couple of months ago, always makes a perfect flare. Still on sale too
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
Rick, if you skip going directly to their website, most of the time if you look for Eastwood inventory on either Amazon or eBay the promotions there are better and sometimes with free shipping too.