61 c10 Build

I'm not sure what to tell you now, other than maybe you need to pull the heads and check valve
guide clearance and replace the seals if the clearance is good.
 
I'm not sure what to tell you now, other than maybe you need to pull the heads and check valve
guide clearance and replace the seals if the clearance is good.

I guess it's as good of time as any to upgrade the heads on this thing. I can check everything when I pull this set off.
 
keep in mind if you hear air under pressure escaping from the cylinders it has to be coming past the rings into the lower engine OR
escaping past the valve sealing area on the valves.
worn valves are not necessarily round nor are worn valve seats

peanutpl2.jpg


obviously testing the valve to seat seal and checking combustion chamber consistency in size helps (ccing head chambers and doing a consistent multi angle valve job)
but of course everything, in this hobby, costs you cash and time to do correctly:rolleyes::(

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-seat-runout.15104/#post-86003

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-3#post-77963

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ccing-my-heads.14187/#post-71989

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...olishing-combustion-chambers.2630/#post-50247

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gree-valve-seats-tpi-motors.14662/#post-78724

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/how-to-lap-valve-seats.1159/#post-2362

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...at-angles-and-air-flow.8460/page-2#post-32923

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/multi-angle-valve-job-related.3143/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lve-seat-angles-and-air-flow.8460/#post-29682

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/multi-angle-valve-job-related.3143/#post-8387
 


I could hear air coming from the carb, as well as the dip stick tube on every cylinder. Won't there be a little escaping even on a near perfect motor? Or should you not hear it at all?

The heads had a valve job, new seals, springs, studs & keepers. I thought they had a triple angle valve job, but I can't find that on the build specs from the builder. I must be remembering that wrong.

I'd honestly rather get a decent set of heads, rather than rebuild these. But, if the whole bottom end needs a rebuild, I'll have to really consider all options.
 
Was taking a look at the valve springs, and noticed the umbrella valve seals. They don't all seem to be consistent. Most are all the way at the top of the valve, and Some are a little further down. I assume umbrella style are suppose to float?
 
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Gotcha.
I studied a lot of these links, and videos you sent over the weekend, and noticed the positive stop seal is a much better option for the intake. Not sure I want to have these heads machined for those seals.
 
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Found a complete LQ4 with a solid bottom end for $750, just needs a valve job. Tempting, but I'm not sure I'm up for that type of swap. I've worked physical labor since I was 10 or 12, and I guess I'm at the age where anything more than minor repairs feels like a job.
 
Worked On the truck this weekend. Adjusted the valves, and got even better compression numbers, leakdown improved on #7. Went from the Accel 576s to a comparable NGK shorty, and they are burning much better.
Oil pressure is great, vacuum is still low, around 14.
I think the oil pan gasket may be leaking. Guess that will be my next task. Hoping the valve adjustment, and oil pan gasket will take care of the oil consumption.

Compression/Leakdown

1 - 175 / 100/96
3 - 170 / 100/96
5 - 178 / 100/95
7 - 170 / 100/93

2 - 175 / 100/96
4 - 172 / 100/94
6 - 170 / 100/93
8 - 175 / 100/94
 
Adjusted the valves
Do you know if they were too tight ? But hydraulic lifters would have to be more than just
alittle too tight to change compression numbers. Atmospheric pressure changes could effect
the cylinder pressures from one day to the next, but not the leak down numbers.

If you change the pan gasket look for a One Piece Gasket. But there other places where oil
can find it's way from inside to the outside in the pan area.
 
Do you know if they were too tight ? But hydraulic lifters would have to be more than just
alittle too tight to change compression numbers. Atmospheric pressure changes could effect
the cylinder pressures from one day to the next, but not the leak down numbers.

If you change the pan gasket look for a One Piece Gasket. But there other places where oil
can find it's way from inside to the outside in the pan area.
The compression was just slightly improved, maybe the weather.
But, #2 was down about 142 or so, and it jumped up about 30 after the valve adjustment.

I was planning to get the thick felpro one piece rubber and steel gasket.
The motor is pretty clean, and I can see if any oil leaks from the top.
It only leaks when I run it, and it almost seems like it is coming from several bolts on the oil pan. Looks like it may be getting through the gasket, and over the edge of the pan.
I cleaned everything, and then let it idle for a while until I saw a drop.

I checked the torque on the bolts, they were a little loose.
 
Do you know if they were too tight ? But hydraulic lifters would have to be more than just
alittle too tight to change compression numbers. Atmospheric pressure changes could effect
the cylinder pressures from one day to the next, but not the leak down numbers.

If you change the pan gasket look for a One Piece Gasket. But there other places where oil
can find it's way from inside to the outside in the pan area.
Maybe a stuck valve came loose in #2 for a swing that big?
 
Changed the oil pan gasket Friday night. Used the thick one piece rubber with steel (Fel-Pro OS34510T). It replaced the 4 piece cork and rubber set.
Pain in the rear, but it stopped the leaking.

Anyone have luck with rubber valve cover gaskets? I tried a set a few years ago, and the back corner always leaked. I have aftermarket aluminum covers that have really thick rails, and they are dead flat.
Cork works the best so far, but they always seem to bleed after awhile.
Hate those rounded edge on stock heads.
 
These work well, but your not going to like the price !
You will not have to work about how tight you make them since they have compression limiters.

Steel core gaskets may not fit valve covers with a gasket retaining lip. Silicone molded rubber with steel core construction and steel compression limiters. Will also fit applications using Chevy 18 degree or Brodix 12 heads.
 
These work well, but your not going to like the price !
You will not have to work about how tight you make them since they have compression limiters.

Steel core gaskets may not fit valve covers with a gasket retaining lip. Silicone molded rubber with steel core construction and steel compression limiters. Will also fit applications using Chevy 18 degree or Brodix 12 heads.
I almost bought that set when I got my last set of gaskets. I don't mind the price as long as they seal well.
My valve covers don't have a lip at all, they look just like these. https://www.cvfracing.com/chevy-sma...400/?msclkid=d1ef0dce422c132366696cb1502ced4f

The passenger side sucks to take off.
 
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