64 chevelle dissection/resurrection

Discussion in 'Paint and Body' started by rjs89ia, Oct 23, 2018.

  1. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    You have to start thinking about buying paint supplies.
    Get the panels, body, and chassis in Primer so they do not rust.

    Body you want to go over on 80 grit and then 220 grit with a DA or Orbital Sander.
    Air powered or modern electric 120vac palm orbital sander.

    All sorts of methologies.

    Epoxy primer regarded as best.
    2 stage with a hardening agent and thinner to spray at different air temps.

    Single stage is cheep stuff but used for decades.
    Still works does not always last long.

    Afterwards metal work repair and straightening and making the panel perfect.

    Ideally all metal work done before hand.
    It's just you 1 guy.
    It's a Big project with lots of Blems.
    Flash rust will begin soon on bare steel.

    Get them in 2k primer.
     
  2. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Years ago body filler was put on bare steel.
    Not ideal. Moisture trapped. Rust will be back.

    2k Epoxy best before.

    Later need High build 2 k primer to help make panels perfect.
     
  3. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    The only way to stop fogging of the lens of sand blasting hood is use a fresh air style.

    Or Blast outside on a warm spring day with a nice Gentle Breeze.
    I blast outside at my farm.
    Lens fogging not an issue for me.
     
  4. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    You can try applying Rain X to the lens.
    Maybe help. Maybe not.
     
  5. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    The Frame and undercarriage is Best Painted in POR15 Rust preventative paint.
    Stuff is Awesome.
    Then go over in PPG LF90 Epoxy black primer.
    Top coat final in PPG DAU9300 High Gloss Black.
    Both 2 K products use with thinner.
    Expensive but results worth it.
    My 70 TA I did this way years back now.
     
  6. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Gotta plan every step because it's just you.

    Body work best done with 2 guys working together.
    Spread the work load.
    And it's Alot.
     
  7. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Amazon sells POR15 .
    Buy 2 quarts of it.
     
  8. stepside

    stepside Well-Known Member

    When i do this kind of jobs i use hammer and anvils and plashning hammer to fix dents sometimes englishwheel ,usualy welding and sand blasting shrinks metal so its easy fix if you have accsess backside of the panel,i use body filler in bare metal works for me,then epoxy primer i prefer industrial paint gun because pain is thicker and when doing final body work its not so easy sand in bare metal ,then sanding primer i let it sit several months if i do show car because filler and primers shrinks ,then final sanding and paint job
    Here in finland we have lotsof snow and salt on the roads so you can see few year what is right way to do body works
    But every guy has he own way to do it
    And maniac is right old car in bare metal is crazy job its easier if you have someone helping
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2019
    rjs89ia likes this.
  9. rjs89ia

    rjs89ia Well-Known Member

  10. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    There might be an easier way to clean remove the rust from the Chevelle body.
    Use Evapo Rust Remover.
    A few guys on other forums have cleaned entire Model A Car body shells.
    Ultra nasty 80-90 year old rust and all gone afterwards.
    You have to build a giant Shower stall from 2x4 lumber.
    Use plastic sheets as curtains.
    The Base is the shower drain.
    A simple utility water pump Like I used circulates the Evapo Rust Remover.
    The Shower head is a hand held lawn flower sprinkler..connect with a garden hose.
    Some guys said just 5 gallons of EVR only used.
    Downloaded pictures.
    Have to find for You.

    Steel seems to be easier to clean EVR.
    Cast Iron can be tough like my Recent cleanups. Other times not.
    Important to not have excessive gunk on parts or EVR gets used up fast.
    Can not always see because engine parts covered in rust.
    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-parts-cleanup-with-evapo-rust-remover.15278/
     
  11. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Love cleaning up with Evapo Rust Remover.
    Frees up time for me.
    Still have to babysit.
    Occasionally check. Light scrub with a solvent brush to remove hidden gunk exposed.
     
  12. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    I am seeing inflation prices here.
    Everything going up.

    Jegs has best pricing on Evapo Rust Remover by 5 gallon containers.

    Amazon is #2.
     
  13. rjs89ia

    rjs89ia Well-Known Member

    Pretty awesome. I don't know how well it would work here though evaporation takes a toll on everything especially if you're using it in a shower method. Model A is a smidge smaller than chevelle :) how long did it take to complete? Right now I'm just cutting out the heavy stuff and blasting the rest. Plan to get some eastwood platinum to seal the area prior to me closing it completely.
     
  14. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    It's mixed with water the Evapo Rust Remover Product so it does evaporate.
    But the base chemical remains.
    Just add more water as needed.
    What I do.
    Been using Water from my farm well.
    Outside garden hose spigot that bypasses my water softener.
    Water softener salt ruins EVR fast I have found.
    Takes 1-3 days typical for 100% cleanup for me.
    EVR works best when it's at 80-100 F.
    I have been heating it with a block of steel and a magnetic oil pan heater 400 watts .
     
  15. rjs89ia

    rjs89ia Well-Known Member

    Got the area blasted and got the two easy spots fabbed and welded in.

    20190415_102228.jpg 20190415_122253.jpg 20190415_144741.jpg 20190415_144805.jpg

    Now this piece is a sob to fab.
    20190415_145606.jpg
    Been working on this last piece all afternoon and evening. I don't have an acetylene setup yet and it being a pain. Anyways another day tomorrow. Keep moving forward.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    If you can find a Big Foot Pedal sheet metal sheer they are nice to have.
    Can cut up to 3/16" inch thick steel 4 feet long cuts.
    A Large industrial sheet metal brake also.
    Stuff is expensive.
    Never have enough tools.
    Just run out of money $$$$ to buy it.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 16, 2019 at 10:49 AM
    rjs89ia likes this.
  17. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    yeah! the cost of higher quality tools is prohibitive ,
    unless you are using them frequently enough to justify the expenditure.
    I've wanted to purchase a decent,
    metal lathe
    metal brake/shear,
    painting booth
    and a second car lift
    for decades
     
    rjs89ia likes this.
  18. rjs89ia

    rjs89ia Well-Known Member

    I've got access to a shear, break, and roller. It's pretty standard in aviation. I've got a torch and jet lathe back in Iowa at my parents but haven't made another big haul in a few years. My problem really isnt cutting the material its making the complexed indentions. For whatever reason chevy put about 5 different dimples in the piece shown above in the other post. Can't quite tell if theres any real reason to a couple of them other than rigidity.
     
  19. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    yes lots of times ridges and indention's in sheet steel are there to reduce the components potential,
    too flex under loads and stress,
    thus reducing cost, and weight and machining time,
    too allow a thinner section of stamped metal to be used.
     
  20. stepside

    stepside Well-Known Member

    Beat roller and blasning hammer are handy when you make body panels ,and not expensive tools
    English wheel allso but i dont know how cheap english wheels work,frame have to be stiff
     

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