700r4 tv cable adjustment info, and related 700r4 info

grumpyvette

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http://racetransmissions.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/23_72/products_id/77

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm

http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/su ... hinfo.html

http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/117101.pdf

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/AS3-03K-IN.pdf

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/tvcable.html

http://www.high-impact.net/transmission_and_gear/700r4+AODTVCableAdj.htm

http://www.chevyasylum.com/tech/tvcable.html

http://www.persh.org/pickup/UnderTheHoo ... rossmember

http://www.persh.org/pickup/UnderTheHood.htm#700R4Tips

http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html

http://www.outlawtransmissions.com/v/vspfiles/articles/tv_cables.pdf

http://racetransmissions.com/store/popup_image.php/pID/122

http://racetransmissions.com/store/product_info.php/cPath/23_95/products_id/122

http://www.who-sells-it.com/cy/holl...055/fuel-injection-9345/page-28-fullsize.html

http://racetransmissions.com/mainpages/tech_info/tvcable_adjust/index.html

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/49798_th200_4r_transmission_swap/photo_07.html

http://www.700r4.com/faq/whattv.shtml

youll probably need to fabricate something custom similar to this, maybe the links/info will help
280994412.jpg
 
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/lockup.htm

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tv-cable-adjustments.617/#post-20099
I FOUND THIS POSTED ELSE WARE
PARTS NEEDED:
Normally open/pressure closed switch - GM #8627332
Single-pin TH400 kick-down connector switch - GM #24205373
5 or 6 female spade connectors ?
Normally open brake cancel switch - GM #25524845 (or junkyard donor truck)
Low-vacuum switch - GM #14014519
Low-vacuum switch wiring harness - Junkyard donor truck or 2 slim female spade connectors
#18 gauge wire ?
Vacuum hose ?
TH700R4 filter & gasket - Advance Auto Parts #FK171 (PROFormance Filter Kit)
Dexron II transmission fluid (approx. 5 Qts.)

Prices I paid for these parts as of 10/24/2000: (The GM parts listed are wholesale prices).

GM 8627332
GM 24205373
GM 25524845
GM 14014519
Misc
FK171
Fluid
Total $10.37
$3.92
$9.42
$18.65
$10.00
$7.99
$6.60
$66.95
In the original CHP article that I read, they never mentioned the low-vacuum switch or brake cancel switch. You need the low-vac switch so the converter will unlock in low vacuum situations, such as going up hill and heavy throttle. The brake cancel switch unlocks the TCC when the brakes are applied. Trucks that came stock with 700R4 trannys came with a low-vacuum switch and a brake cancel switch. The stock low-vac switch didn't let the TCC unlock soon enough with this mod. I checked the vacuum on the stock switch and it kicked in at 3.5", meaning the vacuum has to get real low before it will unlock. The vacuum switch I recommend works real well as it kicks in at 7.5", which will let it unlock sooner. The brake cancel switch on 700R4 equipped trucks also disconnects the cruise control (if equipped) when the brakes are applied.
Are you are doing this mod for one of the reasons I did, to get rid of some of the wiring and vacuum hoses that came on our trucks. When I removed the EGR bleed solenoid and related wiring, I had to rewire my 700R4. This is one of the reasons I did this. If your truck came with a 700R4 stock, the only parts you will need to buy are the normally open/closed pressure switch PN GM8627332, single pin TH400 kick-down connector switch PN GM24205373, and the low-vacuum switch PN GM14014519.


lock1.jpg
The factory installed a couple of different types of pressure switches depending on the application. You will want to install a normally open/pressure closed switch (PN GM8627332). After you have drained the fluid and removed the pan, you will also need to remove the filter. The pressure switch is located on the righthand side of the trans. When you install the switch, be careful to not over-tighten it.

lock2.jpg
The next step is to replace the original four-pin connector on the driver side of the trans with a single-pin TH400 kick-down connector switch (PN GM24205373).

lock3.jpg

lowvac3.jpg
The last step is wiring. Before you change any wiring, find the solenoid (arrow, photo A) and the two wires connected to it. You will need to install a female spade connector on the end of the black wire and run that wire to the new pressure switch (photo B). The red wire from the solenoid will be run to the new single-pin connector (photo C). This red wire will also require a female spade connector. With the wiring completed inside the transmission, install a new filter, the pan/gasket, and fluid.

Now to the outside wiring. I recommend running an accessory hot wire (hot only when the key is on), through a normally open brake cancel switch. This switch will allow current flow, only when it is depressed. The brake pedal depresses the switch, normally, and releases the switch when the brake is applied. This switch works exactly opposite the brake light switch, whereas the brake light switch allows current, only when the brake pedal is depressed, the cancel switch interrupts current when the brake pedal is depressed, thereby unlocking the torque converter clutch, such as in a panic stop. The cancel switch is mounted on a bracket under the dash. The brake pedal arm makes contact with the switch when it is all the way out. Just so you will know, most of the time the brake cancel switch is also a cancel switch for the cruise control, if you have cruise. This is why it is called a cancel switch, it cancels power when the pedal is pressed. You need to make sure that when the brake pedal is all the way out there is power going through, press the pedal and the power is interrupted.

From the brake cancel switch, power is routed through the low-vacuum switch (PN GM14014519, photo D). You see the two terminals that you need to hook to. These are slim so this is the reason I recommend to use a junkyard donor for the plug (black arrow, photo D). If you can't find a plug, you can either use some slim female spade connectors or solder the wires on. Mount the low-vac switch on the firewall beside the master cylinder, right by the plastic sleeve with all the vacuum hoses going through it. Then connect to the new single-pin connector at the transmission (arrow, photo C).

For vacuum going to the low-vacuum switch you will need to use a manifold vacuum source. On my truck I have a TVS that controls vacuum going to the switch. It will not let any vacuum go to the switch until the engine coolant temp reaches 170 degrees. From the TVS or manifold vacuum source run a hose to the low-vacuum switch (white arrow, photo D). At the switch I have a delay valve at the hose end where it connects to the switch. This helps to delay vacuum loss at the switch. You don't really have to use the delay valve, but I already had it so why not?

Now you can go and enjoy the ride!

Update!

Update!

Since writing this article, I've had a lot of inquiries about it. The photos in the article are of a 2004R tranny. They both use the same principle to lock in 4th. They look different so it is confusing to some. These photos were taken from a Chevy High Performance magazine article, not by me, well except for the last one, photo D, which I did take. Also, there are many different variations of valve body's with several different types of pressure switches and wiring schemes. Early 700R4's locked in 3rd also. This is the reason they have so many pressure switches. My 89 model has only one. The 4/3 pressure switch. If you have the early type, you may have as many as 4 pressure switches, 1 beside the solenoid, and 3 at the rear. The pressure switch which needs to be changed is the center, rear one.

Now again, with so many different variations of these things, you may also have a single wire solenoid. If this is the case, instead of the GM #8627332 pressure switch listed above, which is what is needed for the two wire solenoid, you will need GM #8643710 pressure switch. It's around $4.00 at the GM dealer. To wire the single wire solenoid, go from the TH400 connector to the 8643710 pressure switch, then to the solenoid. I think this will work on any of them. I'm not 100% positive. I'm no tranny expert, but I believe this to be true. My 700R4 came from a 89 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup. It only had one pressure switch. It came with a two wire solenoid also. I changed my solenoid to a one wire type, GM #8654123, and used the GM #8643710 pressure switch. Either way works the same. There is no difference in the way it locks. I just happened to have a new one wire solenoid and was changing the fluid and decided to put it in. It didn't change a thing from the two wire one in the way it locks in 4th. If you do this mod, you change to the new pressure switch, depending on which type of solenoid you have, and leave the other switches in the valve body. Remove the old wiring, but save everything in case you want or need to put it back like it was.

Now, this is only a belief of mine. I have absolutely no proof, other than what I have seen. Early 700's locked in 3rd also. I know for sure this to be the case. Why, I don't know, but they did. I firmly believe this is one of the reasons early 700's died so quickly. People use these trucks to haul and tow. Not knowing any better, people would leave it in OD when doing this. So what happens is, it locks and unlocks, over and over again. This will kill them in hurry. It causes them to overheat, which is the number one killer of 700R4's. So, then they heard to leave it in drive (D) to keep it from doing this. This won't let it go into 4th of course, but the older ones still locked in 3rd (drive). So, in my mind, they are still locking and unlocking. Maybe not as much as being in OD, but I think they will still do it. I may be wrong, but so what, I've been wrong before. GM changed this sometime down the road. Not sure when exactly. My 89 isn't this way.

Again, just to let everyone know. I am no professional mechanic or tranny mechanic. I believe all things said to be true. They are to the best of my knowledge. I hope it all works for you.
 
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Ok lets get complex talking lock up vacuum or map signal used for lock up any good for larger cams? If run a manual valve body you can't use pressure. I like having lock up in more then just OD. What are ideal lock up conditions?
 
No you can run an OD only stradagie with the manual valve body but I would prefer a method I can use in 2, 3, od to maximize mpg in driving to work. I have a few options of strategies I can use. I will go into it deeper tomorrow.
 
20170404_094251_Film1-1305x734_crop_587x587.jpg
These are the different strategies I am able to use I would like to use one for lock up on a external kill switch so I can shut off if need be no matter what.
 
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/tr...trip-improvements-from-performance-automatic/

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

http://etereman.com/blog/general-mo...-properly-maintaining-your-700r4-transmission
Here is how to year date a 700R4/4L60 transmission. It can also be used to date 4L60E transmissions if you continue the date progression. 4L60E's use the letter D as the 3rd digit of the 3 letter model code, where 700R4/4L60 uses a M. To go into the 4L60E years just go up from the 1993 code, 1994 =4 1995 = 5 etc. Just looked at 98 GM repair manual and 98 and later trans, the 1st number after the 3 letter code will be the build date of the trans. Example- if 8 is the 1st # in code for 98 model year, after the 3 letters could be a 7 or 8 for the build date.

4566d1302911286-700r4-4l60-determining-what-year-case-codes-700r4-dating-jpg


3rd and 4th (OD) use the same clutch pack. The clutch pack is applied in 3rd; transmission goes into OD when the 2nd/4th band applies (releasing the forward sprag).

If you're going to have an issue with the clutch pack, you'll see it in 3rd before you ever see it in 4th (OD) which is usually the case.

IIRC, the Corvettes came with is valve from the factory along with an improved 2-4 servo.

https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/identifying-a-700r4/

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/automatic/th700r4

https://mechanicbase.com/transmission/700r4-transmission/

https://www.gmtransmissionparts.com/700r4-4l60e-4l65e-year-range-information/

https://www.advanceadapters.com/tech-vault/3-gm-700r4--4l60/

https://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech/spotters-guide-4l60e-transmission/

https://www.monstertransmission.com/4L60E-Identification-What-type-of-4L60E-do-you-have_ep_61.html

https://www.roadkillcustoms.com/transmission-cross-reference/?Transmission=4L60E

https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/gm-automatic-transmissions/4l60e-identification/
DIY Guide To Properly Maintaining Your 700R4 Automatic Transmission
Posted by Regis on Friday, August 16th, 2013



The 700R4 is one of the first automatic overdrive transmissions produced by General Motors. It was used extensively throughout the GM brands, including Buicks, Cadillac’s, Chevrolets, GMC’s, Holden’s, Oldsmobile’s and Pontiacs. Millions were produced in total and there are still many in use today.

Maintaining your 700R4 for a maximum lifespan is not difficult. For those DIY’s out there, here is a brief guide to properly taking care of your transmission. If you’re not a DIY’er this info is still good knowledge to have. You can have any qualified repair shop handle this for you.


Source: transmissiontechnologies.com

Change the fluid: The service intervals for the 700R4 transmission vary from year to year. If you want to maximize the life of your transmission, change the fluid ever 20,000 miles. Yes, I know that sounds excessive but it will help remove debris from the transmission and the shorter intervals will prevent the transmission fluid from breaking down before you get a chance to install new fluid. For an extra once of insurance, swap out the oil based organic fluid for synthetic fluid.

To drain the fluid:

1) Put a very large pan under the transmission pan. The pan should have a minimum of a ten quart capacity.

2) Slowly loosen the bolts that hold the pan to the transmission – about one turn at a time.

3) Eventually the pan will drop from the transmission allowing the used oil to exit the transmission.

4) Totally remove the pan.

5) Replace the filter (see below).

6) Clean the pan thoroughly with a solvent such as Brake clean.

7) Install a new pan gasket.

8) Install the pan bolts and torque to factory specs (see shop manual for specs)

9) Install new fluid through the dip stick tub. Refer to the shop manual for the proper volume of fluid.

10) Check the dip stick for the proper fluid level.

11) Start engine and let idle for 20 seconds.

12) Check the fluid level again and add oil as necessary. Do NOT over fill the transmission!

Change the filter:

1) Drop the pan and fluid as outlined above.

2) Gently pull straight down on the filter. It is only held in place by pressure. Dispose of the old filter properly.

3) Lubricate O-ring on new filter with petroleum jelly or fresh transmission fluid.

4) Gently push new filter in place until it bottoms out. Take care not to damage O-ring.


Source: ebay.com

Adjust the TV cable:

1) Turn off the motor

2) Push down on the adjusting tab and move the slider back through the fitting, away from the carburetor until it comes to a stop.

3) Let go of the adjustment tab.

4) Move the accelerator linkage until it reaches the full throttle stop. Now release it.

5) That’s it! Double check to make sure cable is not binding or getting stuck
 
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