a 383 build

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
http://www.powerblocktv.com/episode/HP2 ... MZz5y7O2PI part #1

http://www.powerblocktv.com/episode/HP2 ... MZ0fy7O2PI part #2

theres enough useful info and a few simple tips on engine assembly,
here in the linked video, to warrant the time spent to watch it to the end,
yeah the ADDS are a real P.I.T.A. but the info is worth putting up with the annoying adds

btw the dog bone links on the roller lifters are best avoided theres far more durable ways to maintain roller alignment

you may or may not have SCAT provide an internally balanced, 383 sbc ,
I would certainly suggest , 6" connecting rods with 7/16" ARP rod bolts,
but thats not mandatory
but Id suggest you buy the flywheel and damper separately as you have more control on the QUALITY of the components,
a billet flywheel is a huge step up in strength over a cast OEM flywheel.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/selecting-a-flywheel.1042/#post-1969

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-a-clutch-in-a-c3-corvette.15034/#post-85152

and of course, by now you might realize I post related info for the hundreds of members,
that may read through the thread in months or years yet to come
read through all links and sub-links
be aware that a 168 tooth flywheel will not fit in every bell housing design,

but it allows a much better choice in clutches and in many cases better quality clutches.
always ask questions before spending cash
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/harmonic-balancer.3554/#post-53706

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/168-or-153-flywheels.3951/#post-67681

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...pes-of-crankshaft-steel.204/page-2#post-46231

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-rod-strength-h-vs-i-beam.1168/#post-40253

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nk-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/#post-39417


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-damper-flywheel.6026/#post-21582

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/selecting-a-flywheel.1042/#post-1969

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/don-t-beat-that-damper.83/#post-14101

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/damper-honing.4975/#post-13912

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/damper-tool.223/#post-8024

https://www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tech/engine/how-it-works-viscous-dampers-a-k-a-harmonic-balancers/

https://www.dragzine.com/tech-stori...ers-are-crucial-to-the-health-of-your-engine/

http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/harmonics.htm

https://fluidampr.com/how-a-fluidampr-works/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-seal-crank-in-1-piece-block.301/#post-31934

http://www.dieseltechmag.com/2009/02/dt-tested-fluidampr-performance-damper


https://motoiq.com/project-golf-r-mkvii-fluidampr-test/3/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cheap-damper-ballancer-source.279/#post-1673
the stock Chevy hydraulic roller lifters , dog bone and spider springs don,t always work reliably, ALL THE TIME with engines having over .500 lift or when spun over 6000rpm, its not all that rare for the lifter ,retainer to bend the retainer spring allowing the lifter to spin sideways, in the lifter bore, resulting in a destroyed cam, thats why Ive suggested BRAND NAME ,AFTERMARKET RETRO FIT CAM COMPONENTS BE USED
ID also point out that SCAT CRANKS AND RODS are in my opinion a better, made, and a more durable product, made to more consistent tolerances that either stock OEM or several other popular aftermarket suppliers of cranks and rods Ive measured


http://scatcrankshafts.com/
bentspiderspring.jpg

bentspiderspring1.jpg



Its been my experience that properly matched linked bar roller lifters are FAR MORE TROUBLE FREE AND DURABLE
especially if your lift exceeds .550 or your spinning the engine over 6000rpm occasionally

15854-2.jpg

retrohydraulicrollerlifters.jpg


viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5522&p=16620&hilit=roller+lifter#p16620

yes you'll ALWAYS NEED to verify clearances carefully when assembling any engine and no, you can,t assume everything will fit just because its part of a component list thats suppose to fit correctly, simply because manufacturing is an imprecise process and mistake do get made occasionally!


RELATED INFO
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-building-a-383-sbc-stroker.428/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/stroker-tips-by-len-emanuelson.1249/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-52466

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-con-rods-would-you-buy.942/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/





http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-0808-383-stroker-small-block-chevy/

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38&p=26432&hilit=+known+engine+combo#p26432

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=8310&p=28891&hilit=+books+video#p28891

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814

read thru these threads and sub links, theres a great deal of useful info in those links and sub links, take the effort youll save yourself months of work and thousands of dollars if you understand ALL the info before you start buying parts
 
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wait a minute! that last picture is a FoRD!@#$%^ZOMG grumpy were gonna have to open up that subsection on the forum soon. i think you got a fever, and the only prescription is more blue ovals!
 
philly said:
wait a minute! that last picture is a FoRD!@#$%^ZOMG grumpy were gonna have to open up that subsection on the forum soon. i think you got a fever, and the only prescription is more blue ovals!

Ive got NO SINGLE BRAND LOYALTY, my favorite engines the 392 hemi,(417 donovan) but due to huge problems finding parts at reasonable cost and the comparative ease of finding Chevy big block parts that,s the engine Ive mostly built, along with more than a few Pontiac, SBC and a few Cadillac and 440 wedge mopars and yes a few ford 460 based engines
 
i know grumpy... im still hoping to dump content into a ford subforum one day on here... rick is cringing right now i know it! :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
philly said:
i know grumpy... im still hoping to dump content into a ford subforum one day on here... rick is cringing right now i know it! :lol: :lol: :lol:

I knew the moment you join the forum I would have to keep my eye on you!!!



 

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Indycars said:
philly said:
i know grumpy... im still hoping to dump content into a ford subforum one day on here... rick is cringing right now i know it! :lol: :lol: :lol:

I knew the moment you join the forum I would have to keep my eye on you!!!





:lol: :lol: :lol:
 
383 (4.030 x 3.75)
11:1 CR
Profiler 210 "econo ported"
Holley 300-25 Single plane, gasket matched
Lunati 1.65 int/1.6exh. rockers
Pump Gas 93 octane
588Hp @ 6500-6800/ 514Ft. Lbs @ 5100
Track Time: TBA..will be out this year

UDharold Solid Roller Cam:
286/294 Adv. Duration
255/263 @ .050"
176/184 @ .200
.4266" lobe lift
.640" w/ 1.5
106LSA/ 102ICL
31* Intensity, "24hour" ramps

camlcc9.png

the cam rotates while indexed by the timing chain at 1/2 crank shaft speed , there are connecting rods designed to provide additional clearance.
camlcc1.jpg

rods that use bolts with nuts like pictured below will be weakened if excessively clearance ground
rod-grinding.jpe

stroker profile rods offer more clearance to cam lobes, and yes the stroker clearanced profile rods are available in both (h) and (I ) beam designs
scatrdx.jpg

hvsiclear1a.jpg


generally its a minor easily done clearance job
camlcc1.jpg


camlcc3.jpg

camlcc4.jpg

camlcc5.jpg

camlcc6.jpg

camlcc7.jpg

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.htm
don,t forget to verify the cam to connecting rod clearances
a cams VALVE LIFT is determined by the DISTANCE the lifter moves as the cam rotates under the lifter base as it moves from the cam lobe base circle
(the closest the lifter comes to the cams center line)
up to the cam lobes ramp to the lobes peak,
(the furthest the lifter up off or from the cams center line)


your cams lift, is the result of the lifter movement, or distance it travels from the cams base circle, where the valves seated, to the point in the cams rotation where the lifters moved along the ramp surface fully up on the nose of the cam lobe where the valves at full lift.

example
lets say in this case we compare two imaginary cams
a standard cams base circle is 1.125" and
your cams running on a .900 base circle
both cams have a .560 valve lift and run with 1.5:1 rockers
so both cams will need to move the lifter .374"
that means the standard cam lobe will be 1.125"+.374" or 1.499" from the cams base to the cam lobe nose
that means the small base cam lobe will be .900"+.374" or 1.274" from the cams base to the cam lobe nose
which is significantly smaller,
small base circle cams are generally only used when connecting rod clearance necessitates there use

lift&dur.jpg


baselobeda.jpg


the BASE CIRCLE IS NEVER A CLEARANCE ISSUE, its the cam LOBES that can potentially contact the edge of the connecting rods or bolts, this is why the rods or rod bolts are machined for additional clearance for the cam lobes as you rather obviously CAN,T machine the cam lobes themselves without destroying their function.
now think about it for a few seconds

the cams lobe lift and the cams LSA or LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE
both have an effect on the cam lobes potential interference with the connecting rods
BaseCircleDiaaaa.jpg

notice how the rod bolts come close to the cam bearings as the pistons reach top dead canter in the bores
block-clearance.jpg

clearancedrod.jpg


RODS WELL AWAY FROM CAM LOBES
pistonatbdc.jpg

RODS CLOSE TO CAM LOBES
pistonat%20tdc.jpg


rodcaptocamclearance.JPG

rodcaptoblockclearance.JPG

WITH THE CORRECT SOFT WARE BOTH THE PISTON TO VALVE CLEARANCE AND CAM TO ROD CLEARANCE CAN BE CALCULATED
BUT ANY COMPETENT ENGINE BUILDER WILL PHYSICALLY VERIFY CLEARANCE
PtV3.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/virtual-dyno-software.2301/#post-53646

http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm

rods designed like the 3 SERIES generally won,t work with stroker cranks while the 2 series usually will

the connecting rods you sellect make a huge differance in the rod to cam lobe clearance, even a small base cam won,t clear some designs, it should be obvious that the connecting rod with the thru bolt has a great deal less cam lobe clearance potentially than the cap screw design next to it., and the cap screw rod probably clears the blocks oil pan rail area easier also
 
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