your heads, displacement, compression ratio and cam selection will be critical to your success,in any street strip combo
many of you guys spend far to much time worrying more about paper hp and torque numbers vs the cars ability to be fun to drive and reasonably fast, if the car will run mid-low 12s at about 110mph and stop on a dime your far faster than most cars on the road, in a 3500 lb corvette or camaro that takes about 380 rear wheel hp
heres some calculator links
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1814
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1209-eight-budget-sbc-head-shootout/
I get guys in the shop all the time that think they want and need 550-600hp, what they really want is the ability to destroy rear tires at the flick of the throttle and to run mid 12s or slightly faster because that's all that's required to amaze and impress their friends 90% of the time.
any decently researched and built 383sbc or 396 BBC car produce those power numbers and performance matched to a 3000rpm stall converter and 3.73 rear gears
Ill try to keep the cost reasonable in a combo, but I need to know your rear gear ratio and if its a manual transmission ?
IDEALLY youll have a 3.90:1 -4.56:2 rear gear and a manual trans so a mildly radical cam and decently high static compression can be realistically selected
READ THRU THESE THREADs AND SUB LINKED INFO FOR A GREAT DEAL OF INFO
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=519
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=727
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=796
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=322
http://www.circletrack.com/tipstricks/4 ... index.html
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1249
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=122
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2733
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=82
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=461
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=261
THE COMBO I POSTED BEFORE WILL MAKE MORE HP,but
Since you goal is 400-425 plus hp,ID suggest you start with a 388 short block from these guys
http://www.ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html
a top end kit
http://www.brodix.com/heads/topendcombos.html
and a decent cam (DON,T LIE TO YOURSELF HERE)
mostly street use, IE you don,t drive mostly at the track but might even drive it mostly on the street
http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam ... &x=26&y=10
mostly strip use, IE, you drive it almost only too and from the track,on the street or trailer it to the track , but might on rare occasion drive it on the street
http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam ... &x=26&y=10
get the cpr at 10.5:1 by matching combustion chamber to the displacement and piston design
use a 750 cfm carb
BUT DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR AND BUY THESE FOUR BOOKS FIRST BEFORE YOU SPEND A DIME ON PARTS
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance ... 611&sr=8-5
http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter ... _b_title_2
http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Po ... 836&sr=8-2
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html
when you go to clearance a block and select components read the fine print on what your buying and remember to clearance the block and rods to clear the cam lobes, a clearance of,0.050" is OK, Ive always suggested 0.060" but thats not enough difference in clearance in that application to worry about.
EXAMPLE SCAT,IF your looking to save money theres a good deal of variation in kit components,aftermarket connecting rods with ARP 3/8" bolts are significantly stronger than stock rod bolts, and connecting rods so they are a big improvement, but in the future Id suggest looking at similar 7/16" cap screw rod kits with internally balanced cranks for most builds as the cost is usually only minimally higher.
forged cranks are nice, to brag about, but certainly more expensive and not required for a street/strip 383 that seldom sees 6400rpm,or similar applications
as a general rule you'll find 7/16" rods add about 20% more strength for a minimal cost upgrade.
3/8" rods(Fastener Yield Strength (psi) 160,000 psi)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-5700BPLW/
7/16" rods
Fastener Yield Strength (psi)200,000 psi
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-26000716/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700716/
IF your interested in building a street monster and have the cylinder heads to support the hp/tq these cams can potentially provide, like a brodix IK
200cc or 215cc
http://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/102100 ... tId=760699
or AFR 210cc head,
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_33
or even the DART PLATINUM 200cc-215cc
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dart/301/10321111P/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dart/301/10511122P/10002/-1
heads on a 383 sbc, and your willing to use a flat tappet solid lifter cam with less than ideal street manors to save the cost of a roller cam..........now both these cams require a 3200rpm stall converter or a manual transmission to work to their full potential, and the correct rear gear ratio
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5
slightly milder works great on the street, with 3.73-3.90:1 gears and street tires
http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00351&x=46&y=7
wilder works great on the track with slicks and a 4.11-4.33:1 gear(not a good street cam in my opinion)
AS long as you have a minimum of 10.5:1 static cpr,IVE used these flat tappet solid lifter cams in several 383 sbc, matched to a good dual plane intake like the newer AIR STRIKE or RPM air gap intakes, and 1.6:1 roller rockers .
3.73:1-4.11 rear gears and a 750cfm holley or demon carb for years with good results
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WND-8501/
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 1/A-P1.htm
with the wilder isky cam and a 4.11:1-4.56:1 rear gear, and that isky cam listed above, the single plane intakes like the
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/
become a valid choice, provided your willing to spin the engine into the high 6500rpm plus range going thru the lights, and your tire diam. and gearing keep you in the 4000rpm-6500rpm band most of the time
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=555
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=2739
many of you guys spend far to much time worrying more about paper hp and torque numbers vs the cars ability to be fun to drive and reasonably fast, if the car will run mid-low 12s at about 110mph and stop on a dime your far faster than most cars on the road, in a 3500 lb corvette or camaro that takes about 380 rear wheel hp
heres some calculator links
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1814
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1209-eight-budget-sbc-head-shootout/
I get guys in the shop all the time that think they want and need 550-600hp, what they really want is the ability to destroy rear tires at the flick of the throttle and to run mid 12s or slightly faster because that's all that's required to amaze and impress their friends 90% of the time.
any decently researched and built 383sbc or 396 BBC car produce those power numbers and performance matched to a 3000rpm stall converter and 3.73 rear gears
Ill try to keep the cost reasonable in a combo, but I need to know your rear gear ratio and if its a manual transmission ?
IDEALLY youll have a 3.90:1 -4.56:2 rear gear and a manual trans so a mildly radical cam and decently high static compression can be realistically selected
READ THRU THESE THREADs AND SUB LINKED INFO FOR A GREAT DEAL OF INFO
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=519
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=727
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=796
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=322
http://www.circletrack.com/tipstricks/4 ... index.html
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1249
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=122
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2733
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=82
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=461
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=261
THE COMBO I POSTED BEFORE WILL MAKE MORE HP,but
Since you goal is 400-425 plus hp,ID suggest you start with a 388 short block from these guys
http://www.ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html
a top end kit
http://www.brodix.com/heads/topendcombos.html
and a decent cam (DON,T LIE TO YOURSELF HERE)
mostly street use, IE you don,t drive mostly at the track but might even drive it mostly on the street
http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam ... &x=26&y=10
mostly strip use, IE, you drive it almost only too and from the track,on the street or trailer it to the track , but might on rare occasion drive it on the street
http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam ... &x=26&y=10
get the cpr at 10.5:1 by matching combustion chamber to the displacement and piston design
use a 750 cfm carb
BUT DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR AND BUY THESE FOUR BOOKS FIRST BEFORE YOU SPEND A DIME ON PARTS
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Performance ... 611&sr=8-5
http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfelter ... _b_title_2
http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunicks-Po ... 836&sr=8-2
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html
when you go to clearance a block and select components read the fine print on what your buying and remember to clearance the block and rods to clear the cam lobes, a clearance of,0.050" is OK, Ive always suggested 0.060" but thats not enough difference in clearance in that application to worry about.
EXAMPLE SCAT,IF your looking to save money theres a good deal of variation in kit components,aftermarket connecting rods with ARP 3/8" bolts are significantly stronger than stock rod bolts, and connecting rods so they are a big improvement, but in the future Id suggest looking at similar 7/16" cap screw rod kits with internally balanced cranks for most builds as the cost is usually only minimally higher.
forged cranks are nice, to brag about, but certainly more expensive and not required for a street/strip 383 that seldom sees 6400rpm,or similar applications
as a general rule you'll find 7/16" rods add about 20% more strength for a minimal cost upgrade.
3/8" rods(Fastener Yield Strength (psi) 160,000 psi)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-5700BPLW/
7/16" rods
Fastener Yield Strength (psi)200,000 psi
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-26000716/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700716/
IF your interested in building a street monster and have the cylinder heads to support the hp/tq these cams can potentially provide, like a brodix IK
200cc or 215cc
http://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/102100 ... tId=760699
or AFR 210cc head,
http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_33
or even the DART PLATINUM 200cc-215cc
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dart/301/10321111P/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dart/301/10511122P/10002/-1
heads on a 383 sbc, and your willing to use a flat tappet solid lifter cam with less than ideal street manors to save the cost of a roller cam..........now both these cams require a 3200rpm stall converter or a manual transmission to work to their full potential, and the correct rear gear ratio
http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5
slightly milder works great on the street, with 3.73-3.90:1 gears and street tires
http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00351&x=46&y=7
wilder works great on the track with slicks and a 4.11-4.33:1 gear(not a good street cam in my opinion)
AS long as you have a minimum of 10.5:1 static cpr,IVE used these flat tappet solid lifter cams in several 383 sbc, matched to a good dual plane intake like the newer AIR STRIKE or RPM air gap intakes, and 1.6:1 roller rockers .
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WND-8501/
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 1/A-P1.htm
with the wilder isky cam and a 4.11:1-4.56:1 rear gear, and that isky cam listed above, the single plane intakes like the
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/
become a valid choice, provided your willing to spin the engine into the high 6500rpm plus range going thru the lights, and your tire diam. and gearing keep you in the 4000rpm-6500rpm band most of the time
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=555
viewtopic.php?f=55&t=2739