a basic transport engine combo

[grumpyvette]

I asked about the scat crank balancing this morning...

I am doing a restoration on a 72 C10 that WA my dad's. It was left to me when he passed.. My intent us to rebuild the truck back to near stock. I want the engine to be a strong driver that i can enjoy on the weekends that is not a hot rod but stronger than stock. Anyway, here's what I have...

Truck weight: about 3,700 lbs
'68 327 block with sleeves, standard 4.00" bore, 2 bolt main, decked .020" to 9.05"
Speed Pro +10 cc dish hyper pistons, stock 5.7" rods
Erson E110020 cam, hyd lifters, .435/.455, 112 lobe separation, 275/278 advertised duration, 209/216 @ .050
Vortec heads with matching Erson valve springs, 1.94/1.50 guides machined down, screw in studs, 64 cc
Weiand 8121 square bore intake (Vortec style)
Edelbrock , 600 cfm
Stock ram horns
TH350 stock
3:08 rears


I asked the question about the crank because after I got the crank and block back from the machine shop, I installed the stock crank and the end play was .020". Ago, I ordered a new Scat 9000. Got it today. I have two machine shops I use and neither of them balance cranks or rotating assemblies. Machine shops are few and far between here.

Please suggest what my next step should be. And secondly, how does this setup sound to you? I have tried to plot this build out the best I could and have put a lot of time in research. With these poisons and a .015" head gasket, I got the quench to.040".

I didn't anticipate the end play curve ball until everything else was done or in hand.

Thanks for any advice you mind offering..

its your job to check clearances , anytime you build an engine its the builders responsibility to verify clearances, and youll almost always find a rotating assembly needs to be balanced, obviously the crank manufacturer can,t dictate what rods, pistons,piston pins, rings, damper or flywheel are used so the crank counter weights won,t be perfectly balanced

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your basic combo is a decent match to the listed application, the only issue I see might be in the actual assembly and care taken in verifying the clearances and balancing the components, I would suggest finding a place to get the rotating assembly balanced once you get all the components together,
Id suggest finding a local shop you can trust to CORRECTLY balance the rotating assembly and supply them with the crank,pistons,rings,rods, damper, flex plate or flywheel , any balance shop can remove pistons and then put them back on if required easily enough then once the parts are back youll want to carefully check clearances, during a per-assembly process , once you degree in the cam and check clearances, and valve train geometry, you can proceed with the real assembly, the posted links and sub links will provide a great deal more useful info